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I consider myself a passionate amateur of alpine mountaineering. While I climb rock and ice, I am by no means an expert and in fact never lead. My experience is mostly alpine mountaineering with an emphasis on climbs above 6,000m. I started climbing at age 38 with Mont Blanc being my first high peak. I caught the fever and gained experience while learning new skills in Alaska, on Rainier, the Tetons and my Colorado 14ers. I went on to climb on Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Aconcagua, Denali, Ama Dablam and others.

I took the time to learn the skills I needed to climb safely on snow, rock and ice. Guides and good friends taught me techniques but experience was key to attempting harder and higher mountains and routes. While I have not stood on top of every mountain I have attempted, I have always had a great time and learned a lot about climbing, myself and life.

Each climb has dedicated section with pictures, videos, and short stories that I hope bring you into my experiences. There are climbing resources that list my gear, training ideas and links to guides, web sites and more climbing information. The menu on the top-left of this page is throughout the site so start there or take a look at the mountain summary below. Also compare the climbs from Rainier to Everest on an easy to read table.

On a personal note, I retired from my work in high tech after 29 years in early 2007. I enjoyed different jobs in several US States and European Countries. My work ranged from sales to marketing to product development to running worldwide businesses and almost always in a Management role. My other interests include: photography, animals, business and of course, my family. My personal philosophy of life has always been one of balance. I try to put an equal amount of energy into my work, my family and time for myself.

My family is critical to my life. They provide me objectivity, critique and encouragement. I could not even think about climbing the Big Hills without their support. My parents gave me a great foundation for life. My brother continues to be my best friend. Ashley is the future and Cathy is my rock. I know it sounds corny and I wouldn't have it any other way.

Animals have always been special to me: from my first Guinea Pig, Ralph, to my long time friend, Preston a.k.a. Roy, an excellent Lhasa Apso to my beloved cats Max and Mimi today. I love all kinds. Once my body will not let me climb, I hope to raise the Lhasa and Tibetan Mastiff breeds for others to enjoy.

Digital cameras changed my life! There are thousands of images on this site with the majority taken digitally. I am adding more images and videos all the time. Please visit the Best Shots page to see some examples of what is on the site.

There is an editorial section on business based on my experiences. I try to share these experiences through a series of essays in the section. I cover topics about management, careers and business in general.

I have two areas of interest now that I have retired: Alzheimer’s research and the environment. My Father passed away in late 2006 and my Mother is now 82 and suffers from Alzheimer’s. This is a devastating disease that we know little about. It impacts over 5 million Americans today and a new case is diagnosed every 72 seconds! The funding for research is very low compared to Cancer and heart disease.

I want to use this site to raise awareness of Alzheimer’s and the impact on individuals and their families plus ways you can get involved before it is too late. To make this as real as I can over the internet, please visit Memories are Everything for my personal experience.

With my retirement, I spent most 2007 and early 2008 on a journey to summit Everest in 2008 plus raise $100,000 for Alzheimer’s research: The Road Back to Mt. Everest. There were four training climbs: Denali, Shishapangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba plus an Everest attempt in April 2008.

The environment is my other priority in retirement. By now almost everyone has heard of climate change or global warming and the dire predictions for our planet. The good news is that it is not too late for each individual to make a difference. It will take billions of daily personal decisions to begin the turn-around. We need to start now. Please don't ignore this crisis. To read more, please visit my "Mountains are for Everyone" page.

This site is not sponsored by any company. These are my personal experiences alone. My goal is to share my experiences and hope to encourage readers to set some lofty goals and have a good time trying to reach them.

Climb On!

Alan

Climbs When & Where MOUNTAIN click on the mountain Summary Compare the climbs from Rainier to Everest Pictures & Trip Reports April/May, 2008 Nepal Everest 29,035' - 8950m I returned to Everest in 2008, to attempt the South side again as part of The Road Back to Mt. Everest . I had trained hard with 4 previous high altitude climbs in the prior 8 months. I felt great the majority of the climb but felt it was too dangerous for me to continue and turned back at the Balcony or 27,500' (8300m) which was 1535 ' short of the highest point on earth. This was my highest altitude ever reached. I have written an extensive document on the experiences during this climb as impacted by the Chinese Olympic torch summit and closure of the north and heavy restrictions on the south side. It is a PDF document named Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ January, 2008 Mexico Orizaba 18,880' - 5730m Orizaba is the 3rd highest mountain in North America after Denali and Logon. This was my last climb on The Road Back to Mt. Everest before Everest. I climbed with my good friends Patrick, Robert, Scott and Dave. It was a nice climb and is a nice introduction to higher altitude climb. Dispatches, Pictures & Videos January, 2008 Argentina Aconcagua 22,842' - 6962m I returned to Aconcagua and summitted again in 2008 as part of my training for The Road Back to Mount Everest. Please enjoy the dispatches sent by sat phone directly from the summit! 2008 Dispatches, pictures, videos FAQ Sept/Oct, 2007 Tibet Shishapangma 26,335' - 8027m Shishapangma is the 14th highest mountain on Earth and the lowest of the 8000m mountains, this was a climb on The Road Back to Mt. Everest. Weather conspired to stop all but two climbers in 2007. I topped out at 7000m or 23,000' in excellent health and raised some money for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund - so I was pleased. Dispatches, Pictures & Videos,FAQ June 2007 Alaska Denali 20,320' - 6,193m In 2007, I reached 17,000 before turning back with a mystery illness. This was a climb on The Road Back to Mt. Everest. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ June, 2006 Pakistan Broad Peak 26,401' - 8047m This was an expedition to climb Broad Peak and then to "have a good showing" on K2. I reached 21,000' on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there. I improved my dispatches by sending audio, video and written dispatches with pictures real time from all over the mountains. Other than the bug, it was a great trip! Dispatches, Pictures, Videos, FAQ, K2 Pictures February, 2005 Argentina Aconcagua 22,842' - 6962m I summited Aconcagua in February 2005. It was my first climb above 20,000' since Everest in 2003. It is one of the "7 Summits" since it is the highest mountain in South America. Please enjoy the dispatches sent by sat phone directly from the summit! 2005 Dispatches, pictures, videos FAQ July, 2004 Washington, US Mt. Rainier 14,410' - 4392m A nice alpine climb similar to Mont Blanc or a smaller version of Denali. I summited along with eight friends in July 2004. We had absolutely perfect conditions, rare for Rainier, and made the summit in a swift five hours and twenty minutes from Camp Muir. Dispatches, Pictures, FAQ July, 2004 Oregon, US Mt. Hood 11,237' - 3452m A straight forward US West Coast volcano complete with some steep slopes to the summit. I summited Hood with two friends a few days prior to climbing Mt. Rainier. After spending the past two years on Everest, it was nice to climb in the U.S. but more importantly to be back in my crampons and on a rope with good friends. Trip Report, Pictures April/May, 2003 Nepal Everest 29,035' - 8950m I returned to Everest in 2003, to attempt the South side again. While it was incredible to be back only ten months after my 2002 climb, it was a big disappointment with altitude sickness and weather problems. I knew about halfway through I would not summit so I reset my goal to go as high as I could - safely - and reached 27,200' (8250m), the exact same spot as 2002. Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ April/May, 2002 Nepal Everest 29,035' - 8950m In 2002 I attempted Everest using the Southeast ridge route. This was my most difficult climb thus far due to the length of the trip, logistics and health. I reached 27,200' (8250m), a personal record, before turning back just below the balcony due to a lung infection. It was a fabulous trip that I never anticipated making when I starting climbing seven years earlier. Dispatches, Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ July, 2001 Alaska Denali 20,320' - 6,193m North America's highest mountain, Denali was easier than I expected. It was mostly snow slopes with a few difficult sections above the Basin Camp. We reached Denali pass at 18,200' before extreme weather turned us back. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ Multiple Colorado Rock Climbing Most of my rock climbing has been in Colorado. It has proven invaluable to have rock experience on the 8,000 m peaks. Pictures October, 2000 Nepal Ama Dablam 22,494' - 6,856m Maybe my most satisfying climb. When I first saw it, I never considered climbing Ama Dablam . Technical climbing with both rock and ice, it was very satisfying to summit this beautiful mountain in Nepal. This summit gave me confidence to attempt Everest. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ September, 2000 Wyoming Grand Teton I wanted more experience with technical rock climbing before Ama Dablam. I found the Grand a nice challenge and learned a lot. Pictures February, 2000, 2004, 2006 Colorado Ouray Technical ice climbing at the Ouray Ice Park is a special time. Man-made frozen waterfalls creates a nice environment to learn or improve ice climbing skills. Pictures December, 1999 New Zealand   The Milford Track is called the 'most beautiful walk in the world'. Cathy and I found it just that as we brought in the millennium. Pictures July, 1999 Alaska Granite Range, St. Ellias 9,566' - 2,915m This was a trip for me to learn more about technical climbing on rock and ice. Flew to a remote glacier by Paul Klaus of Ultima Thule. No September, 1998 Tibet Cho Oyu 26,907 - 8,201m My first 8,000m peak. I climbed it from Tibet. A 5 week expedition, Cho Oyu is the world's 6th tallest mountain. I reached 26,600' (8,060m) before turning back. It was a learning experience that I never forgot. Trip Report, Pictures, FAQ July, 1998 June, 1998 July, 1995 France Mont Blanc 15,771 - 4,807m Similar to Denali without all the logistical difficulties but Mont Blanc can be deadly. I used it as training for Cho Oyu. It is the highest peak in Europe and France and my first true snow summit in '95. Pictures,FAQ March, 1998 Switzerland Monta Rosa (Dufourspitze) 15,203' - 4,633m The highest peak in Switzerland, used in training for Cho Oyu No July, 1997 Greenland   Family vacation with icebergs, midnight sun, dog sleds and more. Pictures April, 1997 Nepal Kala Patar 18,055' - 5,503m My first trip to Nepal and the Khumbu. it was three weeks of trekking in Mt. Everest's Khumbu region. I saw Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Everest for the first time on this trip. It was also my first exposure to the special charm of the Sherpa people. Pictures August, 1995 France Tour Ronde 12,456' - 3,796m A semi-technical mountain near Chamonix, it was my first real experience with technical mixed climbing No August, 1995 France Le Buet 11,678' - 3,559m A small peak near Mont Blanc, it was my first climb in the Alps. No February, 1995 Argentina Fitz Roy A two week trek around Patagonia , I went to the Fitz Roy and Cierro Torri base camps. I still think this has to be the last unspoiled area on Earth. Pictures March, 1994 New Zealand   My first big trip. I 'tramped' the Routbourn and Capels tracks and did my first Bungyjump. My favorite country on the Planet. Pictures Colorado 14ers FAQs September 2008 Colorado Humboldt Peak 14,064', 4286m An easy, short Colorado 14er with amazing views from the summit. Trip Report, Pictures, video September 2008 Colorado Crestone Needle 14,197 feet, 4327 meter One of the toughest Colorado 14er requiring Class 4 rock climbing to the summit. Trip Report, Pictures, video August 2008 Colorado Culebra Peak 14,051' - 4282m The only 14er on private land this peak is alone and pristine deep in southern Colorado Trip Report, Pictures, video August 2008 Colorado Mount Lindsey 14,047' - 4281m A Colorado 14er offering some great class 3/4 rock climbing near the summit Trip Report, Pictures, video July 2008 Colorado Wetterhorn Peak 14,020 ' - 4273m Challenging rock climbing near the top makes for a satisfying climb. Trip Report, pictures, video July 2008 Colorado Uncompahgre Peak 14,314 ' - 4362m Stunning green basins below this butte-like peak. Trip Report, pictures, video July 2008 Colorado Handies Peak 14,053 ' - 4283m The American Basin trailhead is the best part of this short and very easy walkup. Need 4WD to get there. Trip Report, pictures, video July 2008 Colorado Sunshine Peak 14,006 ' - 4269m Cross a 1.5 mile saddle from Redcloud to reach Sunshine. A little work but a great payoff with wonderful views Trip Report, pictures, video July 2008 Colorado Redcloud Peak 14,037 ' - 4278m An easy walk-up with great views in the basins. Go in the middle of the summer for the wildflowers Trip Report, pictures, video June 2008 Colorado Mt. Yale 14,204 ' - 4329 m A little remote but with trailhead off paved road. Beautiful approach to the mountain itself. Trip Report, pictures, video June 2008 Colorado Mt. Antero 14,276' - 4351m Tough 4WD road to get to high trailhead. More of a road hike than something remote. Trip Report, pictures, video August 2007 Colorado Kit Carson Peak 14,165' - 4317m A climb with character adjacent to Challenger Trip Report, pictures, video August 2007 Colorado Challenger Peak 14,081' - 4292m A spectacular approach via Willow Lake and then a short and steep climb to the ridge Trip Report, pictures, video July 2007 Colorado Mt. of the Holy Cross 14,005' - 4269m An enjoyable climb that is easier than it looks Trip Report, pictures, video July 2007 Colorado Mt. Columbia 14,067' - 4289m An arduous hike when done from any route ... Trip Report, Pictures May 2007 Colorado Missouri Mountain 14,067' - 4289m A highly enjoyable late winter snow climb up the north face. Trip Report, Pictures, Videos August 2006 Colorado Mt. Massive 14,421' - 4396m A rewarding climb using the less popular southeast ridge route. Had a little snow, rain, hot and cold! Trip Report, pictures August 2006 Colorado Tabeguache Peak 14,155' - 43m Adjacent to Shavano, we climbed Tab via the saddle and were rewarded with nice views of Shav. Trip Report, pictures, video August 2006 Colorado Mt Shavano 14,226' - 4339m A nice 14er start starts steep and ends steep with great views of the Arkansas Valley Trip Report, pictures, video April 2006 April 2007 Colorado Pikes Peak 14,115' - 4,302m The normal class 1 Barr Trail route was slightly more difficult in the early spring snows. A long but satisfying climb. In 2007, my partners and I traversed Pikes from west to east. Along, long day with an appreciated night at Barr Camp on the east slopes. Trip Report, Pictures October 2005 Colorado Mount Sherman 14,042' - 4280m Probably the easiest 14er in Colorado but interesting with all the ghost mine towns around Trip Report, Pictures, Videos September 2005 Colorado La Plata Peak 14,336' - 4370m An interesting 14er with something for every climber Trip Report, Pictures,Videos August 2005 Colorado Crestone Peak 14,294' - 4357m One of the most difficult 14ers Trip Report, Pictures, Videos August 2005 Colorado Huron Peak 14,012' - 4271m A short and easy walk-up with some surprises on the last 500 ' Trip Report, Pictures,Videos July 2005 Colorado Maroon Bells Traverse Peak (s): 14,146' - 4286 m Bell (n): 14,014' - 4246 m One of Colorado's four classic fourteener traverses between the Maroon Bells, this was long and sometimes difficult requiring rock climbing experience. A wonderfully satisfying climb! Trip Report, Pictures, Videos June 2005 Colorado Mount Princeton 14,197' - 4,327 m A very easy 14er with great views of 30 14ers plus the Arkansas Valley Trip Report, pictures, video June 2005 July 2007 Colorado Mount Harvard 14,420' - 4,395 m An enjoyable climb through a nice remote basin. A nice ridge connects to Mount Columbia. Climbed the traverse to Mt. Columbia on July 2007. Very long day. Trip Report, pictures,video May 2005 Colorado Mt. Oxford 14,160' - 4316m A straightforward 14er with great views! Trip Report, pictures, video May 2005 Colorado Mt. Belford 14,205' - 4330m One of the easiest 14ers but steep with 4560' gain in just 4 miles Trip Report, pictures, video June 2004 Colorado North Massive 14,340' - 4342m The highest series of 14er summits in the US Trip Report, pictures, video June 2004 Colorado Mt. Evans 14,260' - 4321m An easy 14er but the Chicago Lakes route is challenging. Trip Report, pictures, video May 2004 Colorado Mt. Bierstadt 14,065' - 4262m One of the easiest 14ers Trip Report, pictures, video May 2004 July 2007 Colorado Quandary Peak 14,270' - 4324m An easy 14er but snow covered in early May Trip Report, pictures June, 2003 Colorado Torreys Peak 14,272' - 4,250m Great summit - small and sharp like it should be! Adjacent peak to Grays. Trip Report, Pictures June, 2003 Colorado Grays Peak 14,279' - 4,352 Simple trekking peak Trip Report, Pictures September 1994 Colorado Mt Bross 14,177'' - 4,321m A simple Colorado 14er adjacent to Mt. Democrat Trip Report September 1994 Colorado Mt. Democrat 14,152' - 4,313m Another Colorado 14er. It is adjacent to Mt. Lincoln Trip Report September 1994 Colorado Mt. Lincoln 14,291' - 4,355m A trekking peak in the Rockies. Trip Report September 1994 Colorado Mt. Elbert 14,440' - 4,401m The highest peak in Colorado yet not difficult at all, just a long day. Trip Report Colorado Most recently on August 2007 via the Loft Route Longs Peak 14,259' - 4,346m My local 14er, Longs Peak serves as a great training climb throughout the year. There are many routes ranging from moderate to extremely technical. It almost killed me in 1992 but is a nice day climb today! I have climbed on Longs over 50 times, summited 15 via the Cable, Loft and Keyhole routes. Trip Report, Pictures, Video, FAQ