Expedition Guide Directory
Since I am not a professional climber, I use guides on all my big trips or when I need to learn something new. This page is my personal list of favorites expedition companies where I generally only comment when I have first-hand experience or a strong reference from someone I know well. There is also a directory with an incomplete list of some of the more popular companies around the world. Also, please see the Selecting a Guide page for FAQs on selecting a guide. The thumbs up indicates a company I would seriously consider without hesistation. The others are good companies but warrant further research depending on the complexity of the climb and the type of experience you desire.

Warning: While a company may be excellent, your experience could be fantastic or a disaster depending on the guides. Spend as much time interviewing and researching who your guide will be as you do the company and the mountain.
High-Altitude Guides
  • Alpine Ascents International : I have never personally used AAI, but have seen them in action on many climbs. If money is no object, they may be the best U.S. based guiding company. They run their trips in a strict manner and charge top price with lots of hand holding for inexperienced clients. Their excellent web site is one of the best anywhere and has loads of information from gear to training. While they have an excellent reputation, they follow a proven formula so understand what you are getting into if you are looking for a more independent climb.

  • Himalayan Experience: Russell Brice, owner, is a New Zealander living in Chamonix France. I met him on Cho Oyu. He runs excellent expeditions to Everest's north side and to Cho Oyu. He consistently puts climbers safely on the summit year in, year out. His Everest prices are competitive with other operators including the south side climbs. Brice has a reputation of tight control including over personal dispatches so be prepared to follow his rules strictly. Recently he has provided logistics to non-direct clients (Discovery Channel, film makers, other expeditions etc.) so you want to make sure you have his full attention before signing up.

  • Project Himalaya: This is a small company run by Jamie McGuinness based out of Kathmandu. I went to Shishapangma with him in 2007 and was very pleased. He has employed the same Sherpas for years and has outstanding BC logistics (food, tents, power,etc.). His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Jamie leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. His basecamp services are outstanding. Their website is one of the best for high quality pictures, quality dispatches and overall mountain information.

  • Altitude Junkies: This relatively new independent company is owned and run by Phil Crampton. He was instrumental in helping me get to Everest in 2008. Phil has run Everest climbs and logistics for other companies including Mountain Madness for years. Again, he has a strong team of Sherpas and knows how to run a great Base Camp. His teams are limited to 8 maximum and are typically more experienced climbers. His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead and Phil leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself.

  • Mountain Trip : I used them for Denali was was pleased with the guides (Bill Allen- who now owns the company). They have expanded to the Himalayas run expeditions by Ryan Campbell (RC). There are six companies authorized to guide on Denali by the National Park Service so I would check out each one and make sure to ask the 10 questions. But MT seems to have the best Denali program out there in my experience and observations.

  • International Mountain Guides : I went to Cho Oyu with IMG in 1998. Seattle based, Eric Simonson specializes on the Himalayas and his partners, Phil Ershler and George Dunn go to South America and Europe. I tried to arrange a 2007 climb with Dunn but received no responses to my questions after his initial reply. Is he still with IMG? IMG is a world-class operation with steady logistics and planning. They charge top prices and offer all the frills but they also have a "non-guided" option that offers base camp logistics at a lower price. I would consider IMG for any trip but ... they recently have had huge teams in excess of 30 climbers plus Sherpas so don't expect a boutique operation. Get references from climbers in the last 12 months to understand their current performance - recent reports have been spotty on overall satisfaction.

  • Adventure Consultants : I used them on Everest in 2003 and 2002 and Ama Dablam in 2000. They operates out Wanaka, New Zealand and run expeditions all around the world especially the Himalayas. Their prices are amongst the highest but you get all the luxuries available on the big Hills. Guy runs a first rate operation, especially when he is on the climb but understand who will be your guide and research that guide carefully. The best trips are when Guy is personally involved and at BC.

  • Mountain Professionals : I used them on Aconcagua and Orizaba and Everest in 2008. They are a young company but their co-owners have over 25 years as professional guides and outdoor instructors. Ryan and Dave are outstanding mountaineers and offer highly personalized climbs primarily in South America, Pakistan and Nepal/Tibet.

Trekking and other Guiding Companies

  • Rainier Mountaineering Inc.: RMI is best know for guiding 4,000 people a year up Mt. Rainier in Washington State in the US. I used them with some friends in 2004. I was pleased with the guiding service but the rest of the operation was a little remiss. Overall an excellent operation that I highly recommend for novices. The NPS recently expanded the number of guide services on Rainier so the competition should bring lower prices and improved service. RMI also offers several international climbs. My thumbs up is for Rainier only.

  • Mountain Travel-Sobek : I used them on my first trip to Nepal in 1997. Cathy-Ann Taylor led that trip (she still works for them as of 09/08) and is one of the best trekking guides around. First rate trips almost everywhere. Sophisticated web site with a professional look. My thumbs up is for their treks.

  • Field Touring: In 2005 I climbed Aconcagua and in 2006, Broad Peak with FT. Dave Hancock focus on basement level pricing and targets self-sufficient climbers who do not want or need personal guiding or expensive extra services. I would be very wary of using them on major expeditions to 8000m mountains based on comments from recent climbers on their trips. If you select them be advised not to expect extensive hand-holding, standard base camp comforts that the more expensive companies offer and attention to details.

  • Tower Guides : I went ice climbing in the famous Ouray ice park with Andy Petefish in 1999. He Guides at Devil's Tower in Wyoming during the summer. Andy is very professional and a great teacher. Good site with complete information on his services.

  • Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides : Both offer trips in Jackson Wyoming. I used JHMG for my Grand Teton trip. Be advised that as of 09/08 only Exum is approved to guide the Exum ridge during the popular summer months. Also speak with your guide before signing up since I found the quality quite variable.

  • St. Elias Alpine Guides : Custom trips to Alaska's Wrangell-St. Elias Mountain range for first ascents and ice climbing. I did some first ascents and ice climbing with them in 1999. Bob is very willing to make your trip whatever you want. Employees a motivated young team of guides. Basic web site with comprehensive information on their trips.

  • Alaska Mountaineering School: Specializes in Alaska and Denali. I climbed Denali with them in 2007. It was an OK trip with good logistics and guide skills. They ran it too much like a school room (with school in their name, what was I expecting!?) for my taste but it might appeal to climbers with less experience. They were also ultra-ultra-conservative in climbing style. Nice people.

European Based Companies

  • Jagged Globe: A UK based company. I know several people who have used them with good satisfaction. But be careful of who your guide is for your trip since there have been some poor experiences. They work with other Companies and offer trips almost anywhere. Nice site with many pictures and trip reports. They offer a unique "pre-expedition weekend" where you meet your mates and get a little work in before the trip.

  • Kobler & Partners: Kari Koebler's guiding company based in Switzerland. I have never used Kari but he is quite popular in Europe. They are expensive - US$54K for Everest north. The website is in German.

  • Wilco van Rooijen: Dutch explorer who runs expeditions around the world. I was with Wilco on Broad Peak/K2 2006 expedition. He is an incredibly strong climber based out of the Netherlands. Website is in Dutch.

  • Borge Ousland: A modern day Amundsen, Borge runs expeditions to both poles. He was the first person - ever - to go solo and unsupported across Antarctica. I was with him on Cho Oyu in the late '90s. Great person with incredible stories. Website is in English.

Climbing Schools

  • American Alpine Institute : Climbing courses and trips. Located in Washington State. I have no experience with this company, please send me an email if you do!

  • International Mountain Climbing School: Climbing courses and trips. Located in New Hampshire. I have no experience with this company, please send me an email if you do!

  • National Outdoor Leadership School: a long time outdoor company

  • Outward Bound: another long leader in outdoor training
  • * The term 'leading' compared to 'guiding' indicates the expedition does not have a western or lead Sherpa always with the climbers throughout the expedition. This may or may not be important to your selection.


Guiding Companies Reference
Information taken from company websites and subject to correction and changes. Visit the sites for their latest information.

Company

Founded

Country

Principle

Example Prices
(normal route)

Coverage
advertised expeditions

Expertise
actual expeditions within last 3 years

Uniqueness

Major Global Guides (extensive programs with stable guides and support staff operating for many years)
Adventure Consultants 1996
(under Cotter)
New Zealand Guy Cotter

Everest (S) - $60K Aconcagua - $4.8K Denali - $4.1K

7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, New Zealand, Polar Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Mustagata, Same core group of Sherpas for years on Everest, Professional office staff
Alpine Ascents International 1986 US Todd Burleson Everest (S) - $65K Aconcagua - $4K    Denali - $5K 7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Polar Everest, Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, 7 Summits program, Professional office staff, Highly recommended
International Mountain Guides 1975 US Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, George Dunn ? Everest (S) $30K non-guided, $77K guided   Ama Dablam- $4.5K 7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa Everest, Cho Oyu, South America, Canada Full Service, highly experienced
Jagged Globe 1987 UK Steve Bell Everest (S) - $42K Aconcagua - $3.9K Denali - $5.4K 7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa Cho Oyu, Everest, Shishapangma Global climbs
Major Niche Guides (companies that focus on specific mountains or areas)
Himalayan Experience 1994 France Russell Brice Everest (N) - $44K Himalaya Everest North Everest North experts
RMI 1969 US Lou Whittaker Denali -$4750 Aconcagua - $4.8K Denali - $4.1K North & South America, Elbrus, Rainier, Denali Rainier Experts
Mountain Madness 1997
US   Everest (S) - $55K Aconcagua - $4.8K
Denali - $4.1K
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Antarctica Everest, Vinson Full service global climbs
Small Custom Operators (smaller companies that focus on small or custom trips)
Altitude Junkies 2006 US/Nepal Phil Crampton Everest (N) -$27K
Everest (S) - $35K
Cho Oyu $ 13K
Himalayas, Pakistan Everest, Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum, Teams of 8 max, excellent BC logistics, Highly recommended
Mountain Trip 1973 US Bill Allen Aconcagua - $3.5K Denali - $4.8K Alaska, Himalaya, South America, Africa, Antarctica Denali, Carstensz, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Vinson Denali Experts , Custom Alaska climbs
Peak Freak 1991 Canadian Tim - Becky Rippel Ama Dablam - $4.8K Himalaya Everest, Ama Dablam, Pumori Personalized Climbs
Mountain Link   US Robert Link Aconcagua - $3.7K 7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Polar Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Ixtaxxihuati, Orizaba, Vinson Personalized Climbs, high service
Adventure International   US Scott Woolums Everest (S) - $52K Aconcagua - $4.8K
Denali - $4.1K
7 summits Everest, Aconcagua, Khan Tengri, Elbrus, small teams of 6 only, more of a boutique operation
Berg Adventures International 1997 (?) Canada Wally Berg Everest (S) - $58K Aconcagua - $4.9K    Ama Dablam - $9.5K Everest, Island Peak, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Ama Dablam, Elbrus Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Elbrus, Mera, Island Peak small teams
Value Guides (focus on low cost with proven logistics for many years)
Project Himalaya   Nepal/New Zealand Jamie McGuinness Everest (N) - $26K
Shishapangma - $10.5K
Everest, Shishapangma, Gasherbrum II, Treks Everest, Shishapangma, Manaslu, treks Excellent BC services, low cost. Highly recommended
Summit Climb   US Dan Mazur Everest (S) - $29K Everest (N) - $20K Aconcagua - $3.5K Himalaya, Aconcagua, Africa Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro most things are at an extra charge approach good for experienced climbers
Budget Operators (focus on lowest cost, be careful)
Field Touring Alpine 1997 Australia Dave Hancock Aconcagua - $2.4K,   Ama Dablam- $4.5K South America, Pakistan, Himalaya Aconcagua, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Ama Dablam basic logistics with low service for experienced and independent climbers
Seven Summits   Russia Alexander Abramov Everest (N) $26K Aconcagua - $2.4K 7 summits Everest, Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro Budget Climbs for the 7 Summits, Primarily Russian Clients
New and Emerging (relatively new to the market)
Mountain Professionals 2006 US Ryan Waters, Dave Elmore Everest (N) $30K, Everest (S) $45K
Cho Oyu $14K
Aconcagua $3.25K
7 Summits Everest, Cho Oyu, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Patagonia Small teams with highly personalized service
DCXP 2005 (?) New Zealand Duncan Chessell Everest (N) - $24K Aconcagua - $3.45K Himalaya, Antarctica Everest, Vinson Fast growing NZ company with strong commercialization for their trips
Ground Agents (local company that arranges logistics)
High Altitude Dreams   Nepal Kili Sherpa     Everest, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam Excellent logistics company. Highly recommended.
Asian Trekking   Nepal Ang Tshering Sherpa     Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam Famous for their Everest non-guided trips.
Thamserku Trekking   Nepal       Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam Another Nepal Company
Adventure Tours Pakistan   Pakistan       K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Nanga Parbat, Spantak, Muztagh Largest outfitter in Pakistan - 70 climbs and treks a year
Inka Expeditions   Argentina       Aconcagua Major local company with excellent Plaza de Mulas services
Aventuras Patagonicas   Argentina     7 Summits ex Everest Aconcagua, Cayambe, Cotopaxi & Chimborazo Long history with Aconcagua
Marangua   Tanzania     Kilimanjaro Kilimanjaro 40+ years of guiding on Kili with local staff

Please see Selecting a Guide for more information