Since
I am not a professional climber, I use guides on all my big trips or
when I need to learn something new. This page is my personal list of
favorites expedition companies where I generally only comment when I
have first-hand experience or a strong reference from someone I know
well. There is also a directory with an incomplete list of some of the
more popular companies around the world. Also,
please see the Selecting
a Guide page for FAQs on selecting a guide. The indicates
a company I would seriously consider without hesistation. The others are
good companies but warrant further research depending on the complexity
of the climb and the type of experience you desire. Warning: While a company may be excellent,
your experience could be fantastic or a disaster depending on the guides.
Spend as much time interviewing and researching who your guide will be
as you do the company and the mountain. High-Altitude Guides
Alpine
Ascents International : I have never personally used AAI, but
have seen them in action on many climbs. If money is no object, they
may be the best U.S. based guiding company. They run their trips
in a strict manner and charge top price with lots of hand holding
for inexperienced clients. Their excellent web site is one of the
best anywhere and has loads of information from gear to training.
While they have an excellent reputation, they follow a proven formula
so understand what you are getting into if you are looking for a
more independent climb.
Himalayan
Experience: Russell Brice, owner, is a New Zealander living in
Chamonix France. I met him on Cho Oyu. He runs excellent expeditions
to Everest's north side and to Cho Oyu. He consistently puts climbers
safely on the summit year in, year out. His Everest prices are competitive
with other operators including the south side climbs. Brice has a
reputation of tight control including over personal dispatches so
be prepared to follow his rules strictly. Recently he has provided
logistics to non-direct clients (Discovery Channel, film makers,
other expeditions etc.) so you want to make sure you have his full
attention before signing up.
Project
Himalaya: This is a small company run by Jamie McGuinness based
out of Kathmandu. I went to Shishapangma with him in 2007 and was
very pleased. He has employed the same Sherpas for years and has
outstanding BC logistics (food, tents, power,etc.). His prices are
significantly lower than the majors primarily due to his low overhead
and Jamie leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself. His basecamp
services are outstanding. Their website is one of the best for high
quality pictures, quality dispatches and overall mountain information.
Altitude
Junkies: This relatively new independent company is owned and
run by Phil Crampton. He was instrumental in helping me get to Everest
in 2008. Phil has run Everest climbs and logistics for other companies
including Mountain Madness for years. Again, he has a strong team
of Sherpas and knows how to run a great Base Camp. His teams are
limited to 8 maximum and are typically more experienced climbers.
His prices are significantly lower than the majors primarily due
to his low overhead and Phil leading* (not guiding) the climbs himself.
Mountain
Trip : I used them for Denali was was pleased with the guides
(Bill Allen- who now owns the company). They have expanded to the
Himalayas run expeditions by Ryan Campbell (RC). There are six companies
authorized to guide on Denali by the National
Park Service so I would check out each one and make sure to ask
the 10 questions. But MT seems to have the best
Denali program out there in my experience and observations.
- International Mountain Guides : I went to Cho Oyu with
IMG in 1998. Seattle based, Eric Simonson specializes on the Himalayas
and his partners, Phil Ershler and George Dunn go to South America
and Europe. I tried to arrange a 2007 climb with Dunn but received
no responses to my questions after his initial reply. Is he still with
IMG? IMG is a world-class operation with steady logistics and planning.
They charge top prices and offer all the frills but they also have
a "non-guided" option that offers base camp logistics at
a lower price. I would consider IMG for any trip but ... they recently
have had huge teams in excess of 30 climbers plus Sherpas so don't
expect a boutique operation. Get references from climbers in the last
12 months to understand their current performance - recent reports
have been spotty on overall satisfaction.
- Adventure
Consultants : I used them on Everest in 2003 and 2002 and Ama
Dablam in 2000. They operates out Wanaka, New Zealand and run expeditions
all around the world especially the Himalayas. Their prices are amongst
the highest but you get all the luxuries available on the big Hills.
Guy runs a first rate operation, especially when he is on the climb
but understand who will be your guide and research that guide carefully.
The best trips are when Guy is personally involved and at BC.
- Mountain
Professionals : I used them on Aconcagua and Orizaba and Everest
in 2008. They are a young company but their co-owners have over 25
years as professional guides and outdoor instructors. Ryan and Dave
are outstanding mountaineers and offer highly personalized climbs
primarily in South America, Pakistan and Nepal/Tibet.
Trekking and other Guiding Companies
-
Rainier
Mountaineering Inc.: RMI is best know for guiding 4,000 people
a year up Mt. Rainier in Washington State in the US. I used them
with some friends in 2004. I was pleased with the guiding service
but the rest of the operation was a little remiss. Overall an excellent
operation that I highly recommend for novices. The NPS recently
expanded the number of guide services on Rainier so the competition
should bring lower prices and improved service. RMI also offers
several international climbs. My thumbs up is for Rainier only.
Mountain
Travel-Sobek : I used them on my first trip to Nepal in 1997.
Cathy-Ann Taylor led that trip (she still works for them as of
09/08) and is one of the best trekking guides around. First rate
trips almost everywhere. Sophisticated web site with a professional
look. My thumbs up is for their treks.
- Field Touring: In 2005
I climbed Aconcagua and in 2006, Broad Peak with FT. Dave Hancock focus
on basement level pricing and targets self-sufficient climbers who
do not want or need personal guiding or expensive extra services. I
would be very wary of using them on major expeditions to 8000m mountains
based on comments from recent climbers on their trips. If you select
them be advised not to expect extensive hand-holding, standard base
camp comforts that the more expensive companies offer and attention
to details.
- Tower Guides :
I went ice climbing in the famous Ouray ice park with Andy Petefish
in 1999. He Guides at Devil's Tower in Wyoming during the summer.
Andy is very professional and a great teacher. Good site with complete
information on his services.
- Exum Mountain
Guides and Jackson
Hole Mountain Guides : Both offer trips in Jackson Wyoming.
I used JHMG for my Grand Teton trip. Be advised that as of 09/08
only Exum is approved to guide the Exum ridge during the popular
summer months. Also speak with your guide before signing up since
I found the quality quite variable.
- St. Elias
Alpine Guides : Custom trips to Alaska's Wrangell-St. Elias
Mountain range for first ascents and ice climbing. I did some first
ascents and ice climbing with them in 1999. Bob is very willing
to make your trip whatever you want. Employees a motivated young
team of guides. Basic web site with comprehensive information on
their trips.
- Alaska Mountaineering
School: Specializes in Alaska and Denali. I climbed Denali
with them in 2007. It was an OK trip with good logistics and guide
skills. They ran it too much like a school room (with school in
their name, what was I expecting!?) for my taste but it might appeal
to climbers with less experience. They were also ultra-ultra-conservative
in climbing style. Nice people.
European Based Companies
- Jagged Globe:
A UK based company. I know several people who have used them with
good satisfaction. But be careful of who your guide is for your trip
since there have been some poor experiences. They work with other Companies
and offer trips almost anywhere. Nice site with many pictures and
trip reports. They offer a unique "pre-expedition weekend" where you
meet your mates and get a little work in before the trip.
- Kobler & Partners:
Kari Koebler's guiding company based in Switzerland. I have never
used Kari but he is quite popular in Europe. They are expensive - US$54K
for Everest north. The website is in German.
- Wilco van Rooijen:
Dutch explorer who runs expeditions around the world. I was with
Wilco on Broad Peak/K2 2006 expedition. He is an incredibly strong
climber based out of the Netherlands. Website is in Dutch.
- Borge Ousland:
A modern day Amundsen, Borge runs expeditions to both poles. He
was the first person - ever - to go solo and unsupported across Antarctica.
I was with him on Cho Oyu in the late '90s. Great person with incredible
stories. Website is in English.
Climbing Schools
- American Alpine
Institute : Climbing courses and trips. Located in Washington
State. I have no experience with this company, please send me an
email if you do!
- International Mountain
Climbing School: Climbing courses and trips. Located in New
Hampshire. I have no experience with this company, please send
me an email if you do!
- National Outdoor Leadership
School: a long time outdoor company
- Outward Bound:
another long leader in outdoor training
* The term 'leading' compared to 'guiding' indicates
the expedition does not have a western or lead Sherpa always with the
climbers throughout the expedition. This may or may not be important
to your selection.
Guiding Companies Reference
Information taken from company websites and subject to correction and
changes. Visit the sites for their latest information.
Company |
Founded |
Country |
Principle |
Example Prices
(normal route) |
Coverage
advertised expeditions |
Expertise
actual expeditions within last 3 years |
Uniqueness |
| Major Global Guides
(extensive programs with stable guides and support staff operating
for many years) |
| Adventure
Consultants |
1996
(under Cotter) |
New Zealand |
Guy Cotter |
Everest (S) - $60K Aconcagua - $4.8K Denali - $4.1K |
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, New Zealand,
Polar |
Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Mustagata, |
Same core group of Sherpas for years on Everest, Professional office
staff |
Alpine
Ascents International  |
1986 |
US |
Todd Burleson |
Everest (S) - $65K Aconcagua - $4K Denali - $5K |
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Polar |
Everest, Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, |
7 Summits program, Professional office staff, Highly recommended |
| International
Mountain Guides |
1975 |
US |
Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, George Dunn ? |
Everest (S) $30K non-guided, $77K guided Ama Dablam-
$4.5K |
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa |
Everest, Cho Oyu, South America, Canada |
Full Service, highly experienced |
| Jagged
Globe |
1987 |
UK |
Steve Bell |
Everest (S) - $42K Aconcagua - $3.9K Denali - $5.4K |
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa |
Cho Oyu, Everest, Shishapangma |
Global climbs |
| Major Niche Guides
(companies that focus on specific mountains or areas) |
Himalayan Experience  |
1994 |
France |
Russell Brice |
Everest (N) - $44K |
Himalaya |
Everest North |
Everest North experts |
| RMI |
1969 |
US |
Lou Whittaker |
Denali -$4750 Aconcagua - $4.8K Denali - $4.1K |
North & South America, Elbrus, |
Rainier, Denali |
Rainier Experts |
| Mountain
Madness |
1997
|
US |
|
Everest (S) - $55K Aconcagua - $4.8K
Denali - $4.1K |
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Antarctica |
Everest, Vinson |
Full service global climbs |
| Small Custom
Operators (smaller companies that focus on small or custom trips) |
Altitude
Junkies  |
2006 |
US/Nepal |
Phil Crampton |
Everest (N) -$27K
Everest (S) - $35K
Cho Oyu $ 13K |
Himalayas, Pakistan |
Everest, Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum, |
Teams of 8 max, excellent BC logistics, Highly recommended |
Mountain
Trip  |
1973 |
US |
Bill Allen |
Aconcagua - $3.5K Denali - $4.8K |
Alaska, Himalaya, South America, Africa, Antarctica |
Denali, Carstensz, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Vinson |
Denali Experts , Custom Alaska climbs |
| Peak Freak |
1991 |
Canadian |
Tim - Becky Rippel |
Ama Dablam - $4.8K |
Himalaya |
Everest, Ama Dablam, Pumori |
Personalized Climbs |
| Mountain
Link |
|
US |
Robert Link |
Aconcagua - $3.7K |
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Polar |
Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Ixtaxxihuati,
Orizaba, Vinson |
Personalized Climbs, high service |
| Adventure
International |
|
US |
Scott Woolums |
Everest (S) - $52K Aconcagua - $4.8K
Denali - $4.1K |
7 summits |
Everest, Aconcagua, Khan Tengri, Elbrus, |
small teams of 6 only, more of a boutique operation |
| Berg Adventures
International |
1997 (?) |
Canada |
Wally Berg |
Everest (S) - $58K Aconcagua - $4.9K Ama Dablam
- $9.5K |
Everest, Island Peak, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Ama Dablam, Elbrus |
Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Elbrus, Mera, Island Peak |
small teams |
| Value Guides
(focus on low cost with proven logistics for many years) |
Project
Himalaya  |
|
Nepal/New Zealand |
Jamie McGuinness |
Everest (N) - $26K
Shishapangma - $10.5K |
Everest, Shishapangma, Gasherbrum II, Treks |
Everest, Shishapangma, Manaslu, treks |
Excellent BC services, low cost. Highly recommended |
| Summit Climb |
|
US |
Dan Mazur |
Everest (S) - $29K Everest (N) - $20K Aconcagua - $3.5K |
Himalaya, Aconcagua, Africa |
Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro |
most things are at an extra charge approach good for experienced
climbers |
| Budget Operators
(focus on lowest cost, be careful) |
| Field Touring
Alpine |
1997 |
Australia |
Dave Hancock |
Aconcagua - $2.4K, Ama Dablam- $4.5K |
South America, Pakistan, Himalaya |
Aconcagua, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Ama Dablam |
basic logistics with low service for experienced and independent
climbers |
| Seven Summits |
|
Russia |
Alexander Abramov |
Everest (N) $26K Aconcagua - $2.4K |
7 summits |
Everest, Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro |
Budget Climbs for the 7 Summits, Primarily Russian Clients |
| New and Emerging
(relatively new to the market) |
| Mountain
Professionals
|
2006 |
US |
Ryan Waters, Dave Elmore |
Everest (N) $30K, Everest (S) $45K
Cho Oyu $14K
Aconcagua $3.25K |
7 Summits |
Everest, Cho Oyu, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Patagonia |
Small teams with highly personalized service |
| DCXP |
2005 (?) |
New Zealand |
Duncan Chessell |
Everest (N) - $24K Aconcagua - $3.45K |
Himalaya, Antarctica |
Everest, Vinson |
Fast growing NZ company with strong commercialization for their
trips |
| Ground Agents
(local company that arranges logistics) |
High
Altitude Dreams  |
|
Nepal |
Kili Sherpa |
|
|
Everest, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam |
Excellent logistics company. Highly recommended. |
| Asian
Trekking |
|
Nepal |
Ang Tshering Sherpa |
|
|
Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam |
Famous for their Everest non-guided trips. |
| Thamserku
Trekking |
|
Nepal |
|
|
|
Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam |
Another Nepal Company |
| Adventure Tours
Pakistan |
|
Pakistan |
|
|
|
K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Nanga Parbat, Spantak, Muztagh |
Largest outfitter in Pakistan - 70 climbs and treks a year |
| Inka Expeditions |
|
Argentina |
|
|
|
Aconcagua |
Major local company with excellent Plaza de Mulas services |
| Aventuras Patagonicas |
|
Argentina |
|
|
7 Summits ex Everest |
Aconcagua, Cayambe, Cotopaxi & Chimborazo |
Long history with Aconcagua |
| Marangua |
|
Tanzania |
|
|
Kilimanjaro |
Kilimanjaro |
40+ years of guiding on Kili with local staff |
Please see Selecting a Guide for more
information
|