Q: How hard is it?
A: It is considered the easiest of the 8,000m peaks. By 'easy' this means you do not have to contend with technical rock and ice climbing nor does it take months. You do contend with alitiude, however. Cho Oyu is the 6th highest mountain on Earth. My personal experience was difficult. I found the altitude above 26,000' challenging. My previous high was on Kala Patar, 18,000 - a trekking peak really and Mont Blanc at 15,770'. I wish I had had some more experience with alitude but it did not stop me.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: As with most Himalayan peaks, Spring is best since every day it gets warmer with less threat of snow. The Fall season is just the opposite. I climbed in September and had OK weather but we had severe snow towards the end that stopped the climb for some of our team and all the other expeditions.

Preparation:

Q: Anything special about this mountain?
A: Since it is above 25,000', you will need to focus on aerobic capacity, muscular strength and attitude. The elevation will stress your lung capacity needed to provide oxygen to your muscles. You will carry heavy loads down the mountain after the summit, so make sure your core (stomach and back muscles) is in good shape. I run, lift weights, stretch and use visualization techniques to address these areas. For ideas on training for big mountains, please check out my Everest training page.

Gear

Q: What kind of gear do I need?
A: Cho Oyu is not technical but you do use fixed ropes thus requiring a harness and ice axe. One section requires the use of jumars. It can be cold so protection against the extreme cold and wind is needed. I have a gear page for reference for my overall climbs. I used everything on the 8,000m peak for Cho Oyu.

Q: What kind of clothing?
A: Layer your clothing and be prepared for extreme cold and wind. On summit day, we experienced wind chills well below 0 degrees so I was happy to be in my full Down suit. It can also be incredibly hot when the sun is shinning on a cloudless day - layers!

Q: What about food and water?
A: Obviously you need to carry everything with you. On these trips, eat and drink as much as you can. You will lose weight -guaranteed. I lost over 20lbs.

Climbing Cho Oyu

Q: Which route is most popular?
A: The North West ridge is the most popular. Many guide companies offer trips each Spring and Fall. Also many experienced climbers tackel it without Guides. If you are very experienced, then you can go on one of the Guide Companies' climbing permit, like International Mountain Guides, but not use their Sherpas nor cooks. This is a great way to climb this mountian without the full expense but with the benefits of a professional organization. However, you ARE on your own...

Q: How long will it take?
A: 4 weeks on the mountain plus another week get to Base Camp and about week to get back to Kathmanda or Lhasa. Count on 6 to 7 weeks total.

Q: What kind of weather conditions will I experience?
A: All 8,000m mountains have similar weather: extreme cold and very windy! Temperatures can easily reach 0 degrees F at base camp and -30F at the summit, not including wind chills. Wind is the biggest problem on these mountains.

Q: Will altitude sickness a problem?
A: Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000', much less when you are going above 22,000'. The travel to Base Camp should take about a week along which you take few side climbs. We climbed to 16,000' one day just to acclimatize in Nyalam As usual when you climb big mountains, you follow the climb high, sleep low routine. On my Cho Oyu climb we had one climber who became sick at Base Camp, 15,500', and never really recoved.

Q: What is the biggest problem most people face?
A: Cho Oyu is a mountain that test your willpower. Some people will underestimate it since it has this 'easy' label. But anytime you climb above 20,000' it become hard. When you climb above 25,500' it becomes deadly. This hill is almost 27,000'. You need to be sure you want to do this. Above Camp 2, you ask yourself every day, Why? If you have doubts, then you will probably not get to the top - if the weather let's you. Assuming a good level of fitness, climbing is mostly between the ears.

Q: Do I really need a guide for Cho Oyu?
A: It all depends on your skills, money and time available. Cho Oyu is a serious high-altitude climb. Some people go to Cho Oyu without a formal guide and contract with local agencies for yaks, porters or carry everything themselves. There are usually a lot of climbers on Cho Oyu so you would probably not be alone but could be. But in harsh weather (white-outs) or in a medical emergency, you will be on your own so consider your skill level carefully.

Q: What is involved if I plan my own climb?
A: Basically everything: permits, travel, hotels, food, gear, routes, communications, emergency contentions - everything. There are local companies in Katmandu who can provide some services such as getting food or heavy tents to basecamp. And some can provide a Sherpa at low costs. You can save a lot of money this way but as I said before, consider your skills in the event that something goes wrong - are you 100% self sufficient? What are your medical skills? HAPE and HACE are really possibilities on Cho Oyu - do you have the proper medicine and training to deal with it? And a hundred more questions. See my guide page for more.

Q: Can I do it?
A: If you have the desire and some experience with snow climbing and altitude. I think this is the key to climbing Cho Oyu. The bottom line is that with proper preparation and a positive attitude, you can do it! But if you don't try, you will never know. Cho Oyu is an 8,000m peak. It is hard. It does test you with every camp. And remember, that standing on the summit of any mountain is not the end-game. It is having fun and getting back home.