Q: How much time
does climbing take?
A: Obviously it depends on what you are doing and where
you live. A nearby rock climb is an afternoon, a 14eener in Colorado
or California can be a day or a week and an expedition to Alaska
or Mexico can take a month. Everest is two months and an expedition
to a remote place like K2 in Pakistan can take 3 months or more.
Q: Money? What does it take to get into this sport??
A: There are four areas to consider: time, travel,
gear and guides. If you are a college student, then time is probably
not a big issue. If you work full time, then there is always vacations,
holidays and time off without pay! Travel can be as expensive or
inexpensive as you desire. Most climbing areas have a great selection
of low cost hostels. In Nepal, tea houses cost about $15 a night
and the food is very inexpensive. Same for South America. Gear can
range as shown in the next questions. Guides vary as well.
Q: What kind of gear do I need and how much does it cost?
A: The basics for rock are shoes, harness and
helmet. A nice pair of rock climbing shoes cost less than $80,
a harness - $35, the helmet - $40. Then you need the technical
tools. A starter 'rack' of tools and the rope, about $300.
Ice climbing requires boots and crampons that will run about
$400 plus warm clothes. Alpine mountaineering is a big step.
In addition to all the gear required for rock and ice, there
is cold weather camping: down sleeping bags, down suits, large
packs and more. These items can easily run over $2,500. Take
a look at my gear page for
a list of what I use.
Building
Skills
Q: OK, I'm ready to get started. What first?
A: Get an experienced buddy who will teach you the
basics or join a club. Climbing can be dangerous. You can be killed.
This is serious. So be smart. The best way to start is with small
mountains or easy rock climbs. There is a strong temptation to skip
climbs to get harder and higher. DON'T. If you want to do serious
climbs like Rainier, Denali, Half Dome or any 8,000M peak; you must
learn the basics. You not only put your own life in danger, but that
of a guide or teammate as well. Climbing is usually a team sport
so you must be a team player.
Q: All right, so which mountain first?
A: Start within your current abilities. If you
are experienced with rock, get some time on ice. If you are
comfortable on ice, get some altitude. Climb Rainier, Denali
or Aconcagua.
Q: What role does fitness or conditioning play in climbing?
A: While you do not need to be muscle bound, you do
need to be in excellent shape to attempt the big mountains (over
8,000 meters). The most important areas are lungs, heart and muscles.
It is interesting that if you look at the best climbers in the world,
they are not particularly tall. They do not have huge arm muscles.
They are thin and their bodies are well balanced. They also have
great lung capacity.
Q: How do I get to that level of fitness?
A: The absolute best way is climbing! But most of us
have jobs and cannot climb every day so a combination of climbing
on the weekends and aggressive exercise during the week will get
you there. Focus on building lung capacity and heart strength with
aerobic exercises such as running, cycling or treadmills and ellipse
machines. Build your core muscles (stomach and back) with sit-ups
and medicine ball exercises. Work on your heart with interval training.
And finally build some overall muscle strength with reasonable weight
training.
Gaining
Experience
Q: What is the best way to get experience?
A: Go climb a mountain! If you are really new,
take a course through AAI, Jagged Globe or Adventure Consultants.
If you are experienced but want to go higher or harder, link
up with an experienced party or go with a commercial expedition.
Here is a sample plan for someone with little or no climbing
experience with a goal of climbing an 8,000 meter peak and
eventually Everest. I have selected locations in the US, Europe
and New Zealand. The 'Who' links will take you to a guide service
in those areas. This plan should take several years if you
did a major climb twice a year and started with zero experience.
But there are some climbers who have completed the 7 Summits
in 12 months.
| WHERE |
WHY |
WHO |
WHEN |
| Anywhere |
Basic climbing skills |
AAI, AC, IMG,
local climbing club |
anytime |
| Anywhere |
Get experience, climbs lot's of local peaks if available |
Buddy, AAI, IMG |
anytime |
| Anywhere |
Rock Climbing |
Buddy, AAI, AC, IMG |
Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Ouray, Chamonix, Franz Joseph Glacier |
Ice Climbing |
Tower
Guides, AAI, AC |
Winter |
| Rainier, Mont Blanc, Mt. Cook |
Test yourself on a tough climb |
RMI, IMG, AC |
Spring, Summer |
| Aconcagua |
Experience at altitude and expedition life |
AC, IMG |
Jan, Feb, March |
| Denali |
Altitude and expedition experience |
Mountain Guides |
June, July |
| Cho Oyu |
High altitude experience |
AC, IMG |
April - May |
| Everest |
Because |
AC, IMG |
April - May |
AC- Adventure
Consultants , AAI
- Alpine Ascents International , IMG
- International Mountain Guides, RMI-
Rainier Mountain Guides
Q: These are high mountains. What about altitude? Can you
train for it?
A: You cannot do much to acclimatize at low altitudes but
there are companies that claim to help the acclimatization process
through specially designed tents that simulate the reduced oxygen
at higher elevations. I have no personal experience or knowledge
of these systems but you can find more details at the Hypoxico website.
A friend used this system prior to an Aconcagua climb with great
success. Brian Oestrike is the contact.
They cost about $7,000 or can be rented for about $170 a week.
However, the common approach is to take several on-mountain weeks
to prepare for the summit bid on a big mountain. The body needs
to create more red blood cells that carry oxygen. By climbing
higher than the previous day then returning to a lower altitude,
your body creates these red blood cells. This process cannot
be avoided otherwise you will suffer from cerebral edema (the
brain swells) or pulmonary edema (fluid build-up in the lungs).
The only cure is to get lower fast but if you are high up on
the mountain this is often impossible and death is the result.
Q: What about bottled oxygen?
A: Bottled supplemental oxygen is common on
most 8,000M peaks. The extra oxygen makes you warmer but
only reduces the impact of the altitude by 3,000 feet. So
at 27,000' your body stills feels like it is at 24,000'. The
oxygen tanks look very similar to what you see scuba divers
using in the ocean. Bottles are measured by how much oxygen
they hold, usually 3 or 4 liters. A 3 liter bottle weighs
about 5.7 pounds each. You use a oxygen mask and a regulator.
The mask covers most of your face from your nose down. Climbers
usually run the flow at 2 liters per minute meaning a 3 liter
bottle will last about 6 hours. The flow can run up to 4 liters
per minute thus lasting only 3 hours. Most climbers will need
at least 4 bottles or maybe 19 hours of supplemental oxygen
because sometime they will run the flow at 3 or 4 l/m. This
does not including bottles for sleeping at C4 and spares.
Almost everyone uses oxygen above 7,700M or 25,500 feet. I
used O's on Everest and Cho Oyu. It simply makes sense not
to take any chances. At base camp on Everest there is 50%
of the oxygen at sea level. At Camp 3, about 40% and at the
summit, there is only 33% - it is like climbing stairs and
holding two out of every three breaths. Everyone on our expedition,
as well as most of the others I observed, used bottled oxygen
including climbers, guides AND Sherpas.
Q: How much supplemental oxygen did you use on
Everest?
A: This is how it broke down: 1 bottle shared
with my partner at C3. 1 to climb to C4. I shared 1 at
C4, the South Col during rest times. While I did not summit,
I used 1 bottle going to the Balcony and back. If I had
summited, I would have used another to the South Summit.
then 1 to the summit and back to the South Summit. And
finally, another back to the South Col. That makes 7 total:
1 to C4, 4 on the summit bid, 2 shared at camps.
8,000
meter Peaks, big mountains and Guides (see
Selecting a Guide for more
information on selecting a guide)
Q: What is an 8,000 meter peak?
A: There are only fourteen mountains higher than 8,000
meters or 26,250 feet on Earth. Nine are in the Himalaya Range in
Nepal, the rest in Tibet or Pakistan.
Q: And other big mountains?
A: There are hundreds of 6,000 and 7,000 meters
peaks around the world. The Alps in France, Switzerland
and Italy have great climbs such as the Eiger and Mont Blanc.
South America has Aconcagua, Cotopaxi and many volcanoes.
North America has Denali, Rainier, Hood, Shasta, Washington
and fifty six peaks over 14,000
feet in Colorado and fifteen in California. Canada and
New Zealand have some of the most spectacular climbs
on the planet. Then there is Scotland with the famous Ben
Nevis and other 4,000 foot peaks.
Q: What are the Seven Summits?
A: The tallest mountains on the seven continents.
Dick Bass, a wealthy businessman, climbed all seven in the
Eighties (guided by professional David Breashears) thus establishing
the term. They are, in order of height: Everest - 29035 in
Asia, Aconcagua - 22841 in South America, Denali - 20320 in
North America, Kilimanjaro - 19563 in Africa, Elbrus - 18481
in Europe, Puncak Jaya - 16502 in Australia/Oceania and Vinson
- 16066 in Antarctica
Q: Do I really need to use a guide for a big climbing
expedition?
A: It depends. For climbs within your ability,
go with a buddy. I use guides only on new climbs, to a
place where I am not familiar with the area or where I
need their expertise in logistics. While many people climb
8,000 meter peaks such as Everest or Cho Oyu and 6,000m
peaks such as Denali and Aconcagua without guides, you
need to know what you are doing and have the time to arrange
all the details. Long expeditions are a maze of details.
You would be absolutely amazed at the amount of gear,
food and supplies it takes to climb a big hill. On Everest,
we had literally tons of gear. It is a pity to stop your
summit bid because you ran out of fuel for your stove
or did not bring enough rope.
Q: So, what is the story with Guides? Are they
worth the price?
A: Tough question because it depends
on you. If you have the experience and the time
and the money to put together your own climb, you
can save some money. However, this is rare for
most people. Some people don't have the money to
pay for a guide so organizing their own expedition
is their only way to climb a big HIll. Then there
are people who lack the experience and absolutely
need a guide service. The sad reality is that
if you use a guide and all goes well, you may question
their value. The real value is demonstrated when something
goes wrong. That is when the guide earns their fee
and the best show their stuff
Q: How do I select a guide service?
A: References is the best answer. See how
long they have been in business. Ask how new is their group
gear. Ask about the food. But most important, ask who will
be the lead guide on your trip. Talk to that person.
Understand their philosophy. For example, is the guide
there simply to climb that mountain and you happen to be
along or will they turn around with you if you get in trouble?
Ask about their most difficult client and how they handled
that situation. And, of course, ask about their direct
experience on this particular mountain. Do not be their
first client! I have some questions everyone
should ask before giving any Guide or Company your money.
14,000 foot Colorado Mountains
Q: What is a 14'er?
A: There are 54 mountains in the Colorado Rocky
Mountains that are above 14,000 feet in height. They are contained
in six different ranges all across the State. See my Fourteeners page
for the listings
Q: And other mountains?
A: There are 155 mountains above 10,000 feet
and 75 above 13,000 feet and serve up challenges as big as
any 14'er.
Q: Do I need to use a guide for any of them?
A: Not for the the vast majority of the
standard or normal routes. In fact many of these are
easy Class 1 hikes with the only concern being altitude
and weather. However always climb within your ability
and get a buddy for rock climbing and difficult routes.
If you are learning or inexperienced on technical routes
(ice or rock climbing requiring ropes, harness, crampons,
ice axes, etc.), then a guide or a very experienced partner
is required.
Everest
Q: What does it take?
A: Experience, fitness and commitment. You must
have experience to climb the highest mountain on Earth. In
spite of the comments that anyone can climb Everest, it is
not true. Fitness: you must be in the shape of your life. You
cannot be overweight or have a lazy attitude towards the climb.
The only way to know if you are in shape to climb Everest is
your performance on other big mountains. Commitment. Probably
the biggest element. You must be committed to your training,
your experience and ... the climb. You will find that there
are thousands of reasons to stop than to go on - in training,
in the climb, in life.
Q: How much does it cost?
A: A car. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism
will charge $10,000 per climber. The permit is about $5,000
on the north. There are three options for a climb: 1)
organize your own expedition, 2) an 'unguided' commercial expedition
and 3) a guided commercial expedition. The one on your on is
obvious: you do everything including lining up Sherpas. There
are companies in Katmandu that will help you. An unguided
expedition is one where a company organizes all the logistics:
food, group gear, transportation but does not provide
guides. IMG is offering more of these type trips to cater
to the price sensitive or experienced climbers. The guided
expedition is all of the previous but with full Sherpa
support and usually Western Guides. These are 'full service'
trips and are most appropriate for first time Everest
climbers. The cost vary widely. On your own can be as
low as $20K if you really skimp, unguided around $35K
and guided from $50 to $65K. Then there are custom trips
where you have your own western guide plus your own Sherpas.
Expect to pay $100K for this trip.
Q: What about the Sherpas, what role did they play?
A: The Sherpas are incredible allies in climbing
these big mountains. They fixed ropes, carry heavy loads and
generally do the hard work. The cooks keep you fed at most
of the Camps. They melt snow and haul ice to the stoves at
BC, C2 and C4. The dig out tent platforms and set up tents
as well as take them down and off the mountain. It is summit
night, however, where they really shine. They basically take
over and make sure everyone is properly equipped for the summit
bid. They checked crampons and harnesses. They help with oxygen
and made sure the regulators are set correctly. And of course,
they watched over each climber during the summit bid and help
if there are problems. I saw all this on my climb with all
Sherpas for all expeditions all the way from Base Camp up.
If you climb Everest without Sherpa assistance, my hat is off
to you
Q: I read that Everest is a "cake-walk" these days
and anyone can summit if they want it bad enough. Exactly how
tough is it?
A: It was tough. I submit that anyone who calls
it a 'cake-walk' has never been there. The icefall proved to
be dangerous and challenging. It was a long climb in the beginning
but became easier as we acclimatized. The Lhotse Face was steep
with hard ice and a long climb with loads. The traverse from
C3 to C4 and the South Col were my biggest surprises. The Yellow
Band was moderate rock climbing (at 24,000') and the Geneva
Spur was much higher and steeper than I thought. The last section
was 50' of 5.7 rock. Everest itself starts with a 60-80 degree
slope with fixed lines. In bad weather, this would be difficult.
Above the balcony, I am told, it was long and tiring but not
very hard. Bottom line is that Everest is one tough mountain
with the length of time it takes, the logistics and the altitude |
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