Mountains Resources Photography Editorials Contact		Everest 2006 Season Coverage 29,035 feet 8850m
		Everest Home Pictures Climbs Coverage Essays Extras F.A.Q. Links

I climbed Everest twice - in 2002 and again in 2003. I made it to about 27,000 feet (8200 meters) both years before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. This page is devoted to my personal coverage of the 2006 Everest expeditions. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from politics to weather to conditions and more. Click here for 2004, 2005, 2006 or 2007 coverage or for the climbs of 2002 and 2003. Comments are always welcome. Visit the Everest 2008 page for my return in 2008 plus live dispatches from Everest during my Road Back to Mt. Everest Journey.
South Col Route		North Ridge Route
* Adventure Consultants * Alpine Ascents International * International Mountain Guides * Jagged Globe - South * Peak Freaks * Paul and Fiona Adler * Mountain Link * Will Cross	Click for pictures of the south route Photo by Todd Burleson/Alpine Ascents International	* Himalayan Experience (HimEx) * DCXP/Project Himalaya/Everest2 2006 * Summit Climb - North * Everest West Ridge 2006 - British * Everest Peace Project * Blair Falahey * Tomas Olsson - Skiing * Northern Ireland - British * Adventure Peaks * Sight on Everest * Ken Stalter * Legs on Everest * Rob & James - Young Brits	Click for picture of the North Ridge Route
Would you climb Everest? Take the poll!		Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic

May 27, 2006 - The Ups and Downs of Everest - a season wrap-up

After two consecutive attempts to climb Everest in 2002 and 2003, this makes my third straight year to stay involved by reporting on the spring climbing season from my home. After five years of Everest, I must admit that as I write this summary, my emotions are mixed.

The season started with controversy as the political unrest in Katmandu delayed many expeditions and created uncertainty that gear and climbers would arrive on time. However it all got sorted as seasoned leaders guided their teams through the bureaucracy, small arms fire and chaos that comes with a country in turmoil. But by early April basecamp on both sides were established and teams got settled in. However there was a huge surprise for this season! The weather was spectacular and teams on the north took advantage of it by aggressively fixing the ropes to the summit (and beyond!).

However, an early omen occurred with the highly unusual death of a Sherpa on the north. He died from HAPE upon returning from higher altitude. The north side was rocked by this unexpected tragedy. Only 12 days later, climbers on the south and many around the world, were in a state of disbelief when three Sherpas were killed in the Khumbu Icefall. A serac collapsed while Sherpas were carrying loads to C1 killing three and injuring several others. In spite of desperate attempts to save their lives, the tons of ice did not allow that opportunity. A day of mourning was declared on April 22.

But climbers being climbers regrouped and refocused on their goals. Teams began going to the North Col and Camps 1 and 2 on the south as they worked hard to acclimatize their bodies to the thin air. With the exception of a few windy days, the weather continued to hold and HimEx surprised everyone when 5 Sherpas made the earliest summit in years - April 30th. Meanwhile, similar to last year, the teams on the south took their time, perhaps due to the Icefall tragedy.

While "team" is often used in describing Everest climbing activity, the individuals are often what we remember most. And the names started to become familiar: Paul and Fi, Tomas, Thomas Webber, Mark Inglis, Rob and James, Ken Stalter, Blair and more. Their poignant dispatches brought us into their lives, their hopes and their dreams as they worked toward their goal of a summit. Many had special situations: blindness, amputee, youngest, oldest and some were just regular folks climbing a mountain. But each had a story and told it well. Collectively we all sat a little closer to our monitors as we read their dispatches each day.

The first "western" summits occurred on May 11 with Dave Watson and John Bagnuilo making the summit from the north. Many teams now followed and the rush was on. Rob and James became the youngest Britons to summit on May 17.

But a disturbing incident occurred that forecasted the next several weeks - Tomas Olsson disappeared after he and his teammates summited. They called from the summit telling about a difficult climb in sketchy weather and were starting their dream to ski down from the north. He and Tormod Granheim skied hundreds of meters until they came upon a steep rock cliff. They set a rappel and sadly Tomas died when it failed. His body was found at the bottom of the mountain a few days later.

The British Army attempted to climb the unclimbed West Ridge and was doing it in style. Their world-class website provided a multimedia smorgasbord of maps, videos, audio and reports as they executed their plan with military precision. I felt like I was in the war room with their language, specificity and discipline. It was in that spirit that the conditions were declared too dangerous and they called the whole thing off!

Another interesting story was that of Lance Trumbull and his Everest Peace Project. Lance had worked for several years to bring climbers of different nationalities and religions together for an Everest climb. On May 18, ten summited and brought a welcome message of cooperation and peace from the summit.

Climbers on the south finally reached the South Col and soon were standing on the summit. Leveraging the work of other teams fixing lines to the Col, Jagged Globe worked hard to set lines to the summit and claimed the first south summits of the season on May 17. Meanwhile Paul and Fi stayed the course and fought a variety of illnesses as they worked their way up and down the Hill. They set May 23rd as their summit day based on the weather forecasts and how they were feeling.

But deaths seemed to capture everyone's attention. A climber on the Lhotse Face who's death is still somewhat of a mystery. Three north climbers on separate days died during their descents. But it was the death of David Sharp that caught the world's attention. Media reported that "40 climbers passed the dying man huddled under a rock on their way to summit without providing aid." People were outraged and pundits weighed in on the risks of Everest and the responsibilities of climbers to one another. Even Sir Ed spoke up condemning the climbers and Everest expeditions in general.

But as with every mountaineering death I have ever followed, the initial reports proved very wrong. Climbers did stop and try to help Sharp. Two Sherpas gave up their oxygen and administered drugs to try to save him. They desperately tried to get him to his feet but all this was for not and he passed away.

I hope his death was not in vain for it did bring a new perspective to the differences between climbing on the north and the south. Perhaps the industry that benefits from all the paying climbers will take notice that they need to make some significant changes to how they run north side expeditions.

In the midst of this media frenzy, an Australian couple made some news of their own. Fi made the summit on May 23 (as predicted) but her husband Paul turned around at the south summit due to oxygen issues. Their website was flooded with comments of support, questions and praise. Paul tried again only 24 hours later but he was spent. Paul and Fi captured our imagination and inspired us all with their dedication and courage. It was a bit of good news in an otherwise sad season.

And the sadness continued. The south teams completed their summit bids with excellent success. Many of the majors put almost all their clients on top and returned safely - several had monster expeditions of 20 climbers. On the north a few teams remained including the DCXP/Project Himalaya and the 7 Summits team for Sight on Everest with Thomas Webber. They waited out another round of poor weather and made their bids. Tragedy again - Webber died as he climbed higher and within 12 hours another climber, Lincoln Hall was reported dead. That made 12 dead this season - the most since the 1996 disaster - and all in perfect weather.

But never discount the human spirit. The final teams making their bids found Hall alive! Dan Mazur found him alive and stayed with him until help arrived. The 7 Summits team along with Jamie McGuinness, DCXP, mobilized a rescue and within a few hours 12 Sherpas were at 8700m. They brought him back down, including over the technical and dangerous Steps. Soon Hall, suffering from HAPE, was at the North Col and the next day to ABC. With the return to thicker air, drugs, rest, hydration he is reported as doing well in spite of severe frostbite. Amazing!

So, that is it. I don't think there are any more teams going for the summit on either side. I don’t have the final count but 2006 saw hundreds of summits of both sides. No new routes were opened. What started as a dangerous season with guns and politics turned more dangerous with altitude and illness. Death took precedent over summits. Climbers plotted their climbs with care and some with appropriate conservatism. The well established, long term stable operators on both sides did not see death of their clients. The independent climbers took the toll.

Mountaineering is a dangerous sport. It attracts people are fiercely independent and sometimes too stubborn for their own well being. But climbers are attracted to summits like bugs are to light. I am not sure what we learned in 2006 or even if there are lessons for the observers from climbing Everest. It is a sport like many others that people enter voluntary and understand the risks. If anything, it is clear that steps could be taken on the north to improve the safety for all climbers - guided, solo or independent. But should those steps be taken?

I for one say yes. Climbing deaths are always sad and devastating to the families. In some ways the sport has become accustomed to them. Some of the most famous names in the sport are of the ones who died doing what they love: Hall, Fischer, Boukreev, Lowe, Lafaille. Some of these died trying to save others. Some worked to promote safety for their sport. Some were just climbers.

2006 has the opportunity to be a wake-up all for the industry the way 1996 was. In spite of a tremendous increase in guided expeditions the next ten years, fatalities went down.

How will the industry respond this time?

May 26, 2006 - "Dead" Climber found Alive!

May 25, 2006 - 12 Dead: What is going on with Everest?

What a season. Yes, there were over 200 summits on both sides but 12 people are dead - 8 on the north - not a successful season in my mind. As the details are revealed Everest was an embarrassment this year to mountaineering and reduced the expeditions on the north to selfish amateurs. Harsh? Unfair? Judgmental? You be the judge.

EverestMax has a scathing first person report on their summit bid with comments such as " ... He clearly had HAPE and if left to his own devices was going to die on the mountain. He had no colleagues with him and his Sherpas had abandoned him. I too tried to encourage him to climb the 10m up to the North Col – he couldn't." and another comment "...Eventually I had to clip him into my harness and pull him up to the North Col. His tent was too far away so I just put him in nearest empty tent. Meanwhile Dom had tried to mobilise help from the 7 Summits team - they refused to help despite being a large organisation."

Media around the world have reported on the death of solo climber David Sharp and comments such as "We came across a chap sheltering under a rock, who was perhaps hours from death. That was probably only 21/2 hours into the climb. ... Trouble is, at 8500 metres it's extremely difficult to keep yourself alive - let alone keep anyone else alive."

The media has focused on "40 climbers passing by without providing aid". Actually that is not true. Sherpas tried to give Sharp oxygen but all he wanted do was "sleep" - a sure sign that death was near - especially at 8000m. Sadly I have helped bury climbers above 7000m and often there was nothing anyone could have done to save the person. But our world likes to point fingers and find the villains.

I commented on the deaths a few days ago but I have been thinking a lot about this since then, especially the huge difference between the north and south sides. Please let me think out loud for a moment.

First - safety net: The south side has a long history of major commercial operators who use the same Sherpas, camps and routes year after year. Yes, this is similar on the north but the operators on the south have established an informal network committed to helping one another in an emergency - no questions asked. The network was demonstrated again this year with the rescue of injured Sherpas and climbers in the icefall. This network includes IMG, AAI, Adventure Consultants and others. The south also has a group medical clinic that provides assistance to anyone.

Second - costs: The permit costs charged by the Nepalese discourage price-sensitive climbers from climbing on the south. The low Chinese permit charges have encouraged the lowest cost operators to focus on the north thus attracting, sometimes, climbers who need more guiding help but do not get it. Seven of the eleven deaths this year were climbers who were not on major commercial expeditions.

Third - discipline: The Ministry of Tourism in Nepal manages Everest with a tight first - financially, ecology and safety. For all the jokes, the Liaison Officers do pay attention and report problems. Operators with poor records can be banned. Followers of Everest know the names. Such discipline is sketchy on the north side.

Fourth -competition: The south has several majors who compete for the business year after year and most climbers always ask about their safety record. On the north, there is one dominate commercial operator who has such power that they fix ropes and dictate schedules. Their record is perfect for clients and they serve as a model for other operators. But the north needs more large scale commercial operators to bring order to the chaos.

Fifth and finally, the climbers themselves: They bring a lot of the problems. While it is seductive to be the first to do this and that; mountaineering is not an X-Games event. It is dangerous, deadly and real. I am afraid that all the commercialism has made Everest seem like a Colorado 14er, Aconcagua or a nice climb in the Alps.

While I personally think Hillary has taken his argument too far in that "... it is just ridiculous having 15 or 20 or 30 expeditions all attempting the mountain at the same time." He does have a fair point in comparing his time to now "...We would have definitely abandoned the ambition to reach the summit in order to get the other person to safety." But should another team have to do that?

Mountaineering is a sport of intense independence. It is a sport where the participant can find oneself completely alone, without food, water and shelter in mind numbing cold and flesh-freezing winds. The mountain does not care. It is really a test of the climber, not the Hill. Should a climber who has never climbed Everest be allowed to climb Everest? A silly question? Well in so many words, that seems to be the feeling of many in the industry. But that robs people of their dreams - the heart and soul of alpine mountaineering.

Sadly many operators will take anyone on an expedition if they have money. There are four tiers of operators: 1) established commercial companies with long histories and stable ownership, 2) budget operators who run safe, no-frills operations, 3) local ground agents who provide basic logistics and Sherpas for the lowest cost and finally, 4) the upstart operators without a track record. The point is you can die on any of these but some have a better record than others.

I am actually very disappointed about this year and for the sport I love. I am disappointed that the largest mountaineering websites just repost dispatches and rarely comment or offer solutions on what is happening. I am disappointed that the large commercial operators continue to post rosy statements about their team’s success and ignore the cancer in their industry. I am disappointed that climbers continue to put their lives at risk based on the lowest cost operators. I am disappointed that climbers die when it could have been prevented.

Climbing is a wonderful sport that delivers challenges and rewards rarely found in this day. It should not be the domain of the "professionals" nor the wealthy. But governments, operators and climbers should dedicated themselves to running safe climbs with proper safety nets, qualified staff, sufficient resources and a moral compass.

I wrote an editorial called "When Good Guides Turn Bad” a few years ago that was focused on the problems with guides and how they treated clients. While I do believe the quality of the guides has improved, the industry continues to have serious and deadly issues. Everest 2006 - North has shown that there is still a long way to go. And it is up to the operators to solve it. They have the power, the knowledge and vested interest to make it happen.

Now will they? Until then it will remain "climber beware".

May 25, 2006 - Broad Peak and K2 - Alan's next adventure

I know from my emails, polls and surveys that you love mountaineering so please let me share with you my next adventure that starts next week: a climb of Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan. You might have read on this site about this climb. I have spent the past year working with Dave Hancock of Field Touring to pull together an international team. We meet in Islamabad in early June and after 14 days of flying, driving and walking our team of 28, including 6 trekkers,  will arrive at our basecamp for Broad Peak.

The plan is to take our time on this 26,401' Hill. There are 3 or 4 camps depending on conditions. It should take anywhere from 10 to 20 climbing days depending on the weather. The route up the West Ridge is straightforward with few extremely difficult sections. Broad Peak is more about altitude than anything else. That said, the risk of avalanches and crevasses are real. There is a false summit a few hundred feet below the true summit, my primary goal, which is another half mile across the summit ridge. There have been about 275 summits but 18 deaths. This compares with over 2500 summits on Everest and 300 deaths. So statistically, Broad is a little safer.

About half the team will depart after Broad leaving 14 of us to attempt K2. We will move basecamp a mile up the glacier and prepare for K2. The theory is that we will be very well acclimatized after Broad thus can make a swift climb of K2. That is the theory! I have researched this Hill and spoken with a lot of people including some with K2 experience. They all agree it is the hardest mountain they ever attempted and most say they would never go back. There are four camps that follow the Abruzzi Ridge. Two famous sections are Houses Chimney between C1 and C2 and the Black Pyramid above C3. The Chimney is a steep 150' rock climb at 20,000' and the Pyramid is about 1200' of very steep rock and ice. My primary goal is C2 with C3 if I feel great. The team is well balanced with a lot of experienced climbers. Eleven have been to Everest, there are a combined 20 summits of 8000m mountains amongst the 22 climbers. And two climbers have been to K2 before. Finally we have three women on the team, two who will attempt K2.

Some of you have been to Everest with me via this website. I have been working on improving my dispatch system and now have the ability to post text, pictures, audio and video immediately and directly from the mountain. This has taken as much time as my training! But all this is based on my satellite phone functioning properly. In any event, I hope it makes following the expedition more enjoyable. There is an automatic notification system available if you visit the site where you enter your email and then you will receive an email every time a new dispatch is posted. As always I will write honestly about what I am feeling and try to bring you a little bit of mountaineering in Pakistan. Click here to register for notifications and see the dispatch page.

I always enjoyed the people and children in Nepal and am eager to see the Pakistani kids. There has been so much said about that part of the world that one of my goals is to see for myself what the people are like. I truly believe most people are good and decent and only want the best for themselves and their families. I will try to capture that element of the human spirit through pictures and my writing. They have been through a lot in the past year with a devastating earthquake that killed 75,000 people and left 3.5 million homeless. Everyone on the team is donating money to earthquake relief.

OK, so that is the background and plan. I will be honest, I am very nervous about this climb. First, it is another climb above 8000m (26,000'). My last time there was less than ideal :) I have taken a very different approach to my preparations this time including gaining weight assuming I will loose 20 pounds or more, also I have not put the endless miles running, like I did for Everest. My knees just won't take it anymore. I have pushed hard on my training climbs including a nice climb up Pikes Peak with my great friend and Colorado climbing partner Patrick. My pack was always loaded and I have stressed my body over and over every weekend this year. I still put in some running and weights but tried to pace myself. I am continuing my training up until I leave.

Thanks for reading this and I hope you follow the climb. More on Everest soon as well as my thoughts on the controversy on David Sharp death and the amazing difference between the north and south sides this year.

May 24, 2006 - South Summits, Two examples of Courage

Some of the final teams on the south side successfully summited last night including the second part of the huge Adventure Consultants expedition - the Canadian team. Also the South African team, Turkish and remaining IMG climbers made the summit. Basecamp MD reports that basecamp is looking like a ghost town with the vast majority of teams now headed home. A few teams remain on the north so keep watching! Also, I will be sharing some details about my upcoming climb to Broad Peak and K2 starting next week plus a summary of this year's Everest Spring season.

While every climber who summits or tries to summit is unique in my mind, there is the occasional person who catches my attention. Yes, I am impressed by the record climbers: youngest, oldest, fastest, disadvantaged, first to summit and on and on. Congratulations to all and this season had a lot of these cases. But it is the regular person, just trying to do something special for themselves. Not trying to make a statement nor serve as a symbol. While the record climbers sometimes do good for many, the ones who are quiet sometimes makes a louder statement.

Paul and Fi Adler are a case study here. While not exactly "quiet" considering their website; Paul did something that even the professionals rarely attempt. By now most readers know the story. Paul and Fi, married couple from Australia, worked for the past year to get their bodies in shape to climb Everest on the south side. They were on a logistics permit with IMG, hired their own Sherpas and did not rely on the IMG western guides. They arrived in basecamp early and began the acclimatization process. But Paul caught a throat infection delaying their climbs. Fi also showed some signs of catching the infection running around basecamp. They both showed wisdom and patience by taking their time to get well and not pushing their bodies.

Soon they got out of sync with the other climbers but made the trip to C1 and back, then C2 and up the Lhotse Face, the weather delayed them before another trip through the icefall and to C3 - the final test before a summit bid. After a few days in BC and watching team after team summit, they identified a weather window and targeted May 23rd as their summit day. The world began to follow their story. They even received a letter from the PM of Australia wishing them luck!

The evening of May 22, Fi, Paul, Da Sona, Mingma Ongel started their climb about around 9:30. Everything was going fine up to the South Summit, 28700'. Both climbers were tired but Paul had oxygen issues and made the decision to return to the South Col while Fi and Mingma continued. As FI reported in her excellent summit night dispatch "... the only option being for him to go down. What a heart-breaker. Of all the scenarios we'd thought might happen, this was certainly not one of them. He urged me to go on saying "you've got it in the bag!". Which was anything but how I felt at the time." Fi went on to summit in good style and return to C4 in great time. Her strength to continue her dream, to push on without her partner, to stand on top of the world - and return safely - she lived the word courage.

She met Paul in their tent.

I remember retuning to my tent in 2002 and 2003 after turning back just below the Balcony. I sat alone in the dark shivering from the cold. My Sherpa offered hot tea which I gladly took but he went off to bed - as he should have. My thoughts ran the range but the primary emotion was pure exhaustion. I feel asleep only to wake up to the sunrise and thereafter to my teammates returning. As I downclimbed both years, the enormity of what I had tried set in as did the total and complete fatigue in every part of my body.

I do not know what Paul and Fi said that night or the following morning but Paul made the decision to try again - 24 hours after his initial bid. Paul started out but turned back just below the Balcony. But that is not the point. He did not give up. He continued to put everything he had into reaching his goal. He pushed his body - and mind - to the limit. He refused to accept ... He showed a unique courage. He is a mountaineer, a climber.

Paul and Fi were not the first, not the fastest, not the youngest or oldest. In fact that were not the bravest to climb Mount Everest. They are regular people, living regular lives and doing courageous acts. An inspiration.

May 23, 2006 - British Army halts summit attempt, More North this week and South Right Now!!

According to their website, the Army has stopped all attempts to the summit from the West ridge due to dangerous snow conditions "... I have taken the difficult decision not to go for a second attempt. Knowing what I know, I am not prepared to risk any of the lives in my team. As climbers, we accept that there is always an element of risk but our Army training, judgment and decision making mitigate that risk."

Both Sight on Everest, Harry Kikstra/Thomas Weber and team plus Project Himalaya/DCXP are at C2 on the North. They are looking at a bid in a couple of days.

IMG reports that 3 climbers and 3 Sherpas are on their way on the south right now. This includes Paul Adler.

May 23, 2006 - Paul to try again!

In the "never give up department", Paul Adler is going back up for another try at the summit. He had oxygen problems last night as he and Fi made their bid - Fi made it. She has written an excellent summit night report on their site - well worth a read. This is the advantage of going with a large expedition such as IMG. They have the spare resources (oxygen, sherpas, food, etc) to support a second attempt. If Paul and Fi had gone with a local ground agent only, another attempt, while not impossible, would have been unlikely. So another long night for those us following him! Climb safe!

May 23, 2006 - Looking at the deaths on Everest this year

This has been a deadly year on both sides of Everest. Perhaps the most deaths since the infamous 1996 spring season. So what was going on this year that made it so sad for 10 climbers? First a summary.

Early in the season, a HimEx Sherpa, Tuk Bahadur, died of HAPE on the north side after fixing rope up high. 3 Sherpas, Ang Phinjo Sherpa, Lhakkpa Tseri Sherpa and Dawa Temba Sherpa, died in the Khumbu Icefall when ice collapsed around them. Tomas Olsson died from a fall on the north died after a rappel anchor tore loose. Vitor Negrete died after his north summit. He had summited without using supplemental oxygen. David Sharp disappeared on the north side during his summit bid. Jacques-Hughes Letrange died on his descent after a north summit. Igor Plyushkin died also on the descent on the north. While not on Everest, Pavel Kalny died near the Yellow Band while attempting Lhotse. Details are sketchy.

Climbing deaths are always difficult to discuss and my condolences goes out to all the family and friends. It happens every year and some years, like 2006, are worse than others. However Everest has become safer in the past 15 years. AdventureStats has the best facts I have seen and they report that as of 2003, there have been about 2,000 summits since 1922 with 179 deaths or a 9.3% fatality rate. Since 1990, it had dropped to 4.4%. As bad as this sounds, Annapurna is a much more deadly mountain with a summit to death ratio of 2:1 deaths for every summit (109:55).

It seems that each tragedy is unique. Sometimes it is the weather or altitude issues and sometimes a fall. Rare, but sometimes there is equipment failure. Sadly, like with pilots in most airplane accidents, sometime the climber is at fault. High altitude mountaineering is not only a physical sport but also a mental one and judgment is the most critical item. The most common mistakes have to do with climbers not recognizing what is happening to their bodies as a result of the altitude. Study after study have measured that cognitive skills become impaired, reasoning suffers and sometimes climbers make bad decisions. Not abiding by their turn-around time or pushing too hard, too fast to reach the summit. Not taking care of their bodies and staying hydrated. There are many reasons.

The only common theme to seven of this year's deaths (other than with the Sherpas and Igor) was that they were not on large commercial expeditions. This is noteworthy for the fact that commercial expeditions, which cost more, tend to run very conservatively and with a large amount of Sherpa support. They typically employ very experienced guides who have the skills to recognize when a climber is not acclimatization properly or having real problems. The climbers who use ground agents, which cost less, and hire their own Sherpas run a slightly bigger risk in that while the Sherpas are incredible, they sometimes will not be as forceful as a western guide in stopping a climber in trouble.

With all the crowds you hear about, why don't other climbers help those in need? In an interview this past week, 2006 climbers note "...Wayne Alexander, of Christchurch, told The Telegraph newspaper in Britain: "We came across a chap sheltering under a rock, who was perhaps hours from death. That was probably only 21/2 hours into the climb. ... Told that it had been suggested that Inglis' party should have stopped their ascent and rescued the man, Inglis replied: "Absolutely, that's a very fair comment. Trouble is, at 8500 metres it's extremely difficult to keep yourself alive - let alone keep anyone else alive." That said, other climbers have famously given up their summits to help climbers in need.

What can be done to prevent these deaths? It is critical that all climbers on these high mountains understand the risks they are taking and not depend on the support from other team members, Sherpas, sat phones or helicopters. But for the climbers, never climb alone and climb in the company of someone stronger than you such as a Sherpa or more experienced climber. Check on one another often and honestly. Stay aware of yourself and what is happening to you - especially at altitude. Take care of yourself by drinking, eating and resting properly. Get the best weather forecast you can, check it often and study the history of the mountain. Know the trends and what might be unusual. Don't take chances like leaving too late for the summit or ignoring your turn-around time. Rope up in crevasse areas, speed through dangerous areas of tumbled ice. Listen to your inner voice and those with more experience.

But even with all these precautions, climbing is dangerous. The sport often takes the best in spite of all their strength and experience. That is the contract every climber signs with the mountain. It is the deal they make with their families. And it is part of the adventure of mountaineering.

May 22, 2006 - Fi Adler, Will Cross and others summit, Paul wisely turns back- Update 3

Fi summited around 7:55AM May 23rd. Paul turned back, wisely due to oxygen problems. Fantastic job! well Done. Now they need to get down. Conditions were ideal and they made excellent time. I am so happy for both of them. they worked for the past year for this chance and they did it. I don't give a damn about the summit (but I am thrilled for Fi), I am just so happy that they both put themselves out there, did their best and will get down safely. Well done, well done!!

They followed Will Cross, who on his 3rd attempt proved diabetes is not the debilitating disease it once was - with proper care. Also Dave Hahn's team made the summit at 4:20AM according to Paula Stout, former Everest BC Manager.

They are at the South Summit in good time. If there are no problems, they should make it!

Mary has reported that both Paul and have made the Balcony. They left the South Col around 9:00PM and she reported them at the Balcony around3:00Am (all local times). They are doing well and the weather is good according to another report from Eric Simonson at IMG. There are several climbers going up so the trail should be well established. If all the climbers continue on the current schedule look for summits starting around 8:00AM Everest time on Tuesday, May 23rd. The return trip typically takes about 6 hours so they should be back in at the South Col in mid afternoon, maybe 3:00PM.

May 22, 2006 - Paul and Fi head up, Weekend summits

I hope you have been following the Australian married couple Paul and Fi Adler. Well as I write this they are making their summit bid. They arrived at the South Col in good condition Monday afternoon (local time).  I am sending them positive energy, please pitch in - for all the climbers can use some! I am glad to see that there are other climbers who will be also on their bid including some of the other members of IMG. Also there is Will Cross and the Dave Hahn led team still on the south side who will go in a day or so perhaps.

A few of the many summits to note, Rhys Jones has become the youngest Briton to master the 7 Summits. His father, Alan, wrote me "Rhys has claimed the british record as the youngest to climb Mt MacKinley and we believe the youngest person to summit Vinson. The previous British 7 Summit record was Jake Meyer aged 21yr and the World record holder Dannielle Fisher also aged twenty yr but older than Rhys. Rhys completed his final summit with Jagged Globe mountain leader Kenton Cool and were the first team to summit Everest from the South this year." I find it amazing that these records now come down to time of birth!

An excellent summit report is from the Everest 2006 team on their Blog. Well worth a read a it provides some details of the north route not normally discussed. Well done guys!

The season is not over with DXCP/Project Himalaya now looking at a summit on Thursday, May 25. And of course the British Army is still on the West Ridge. They cancelled their attempt when they discovered dangerous snow conditions that most likely would result in avalanches along their route. No word on when they will try again. Stay tuned since this will be a first and make for some exciting reading and viewing of pictures and videos on their site - the best one this year.

May 20 -2006 - Teams moving up on the South and West Ridge

Mountain LInk is reporting a summit bid right now, Saturday night Everest time. Jeff Justman, JJ, reports that ".. Tap just called from Camp 4. He along with Heidi, Mike, Garrett and our five Superstar Sherpas have just left the south col for the summit of Mount Everest! " It is interesting that some teams have continued to climb and others have returned to lower camps. This is not all that unusual since the best teams with experienced climbers and Sherpas often listen to their inner voice as well as the Everest weather forecast emailed from Seattle or Sweden. None of the methods are right or wrong and in fact the most successful teams (defined as returns home safely and in one piece) use all available information to be make the best decisions. In any event, best of luck to Tap Richards and team.

The British Army is moving towards the summit right now as well. Their site show an ETA in 9 hours!

Lance has posted another excellent video of his Everest Peace Project team on the north summit. Worth a look for sure.

I just saw where Joost has posted that Tomas' body has been found. This is a tragic end to a brave adventure. My thoughts are with his family and friends

May 20 , 2006 - Update on the South Side

Thanks to a former BC manager on a 2005 expedition, there is some updated news to report. First several teams that were thought to have attempted a summit last night have retreated back to C2 or even BC based on some high winds and forecasts. WIll Cross is now at C2 and is now looking at a Tuesday AM summit. He is reported to be sounding strong. Dave Hahn also took his team down. The 23rd now looks to be the day for the south.

May 20, 2006 - Who's left?

Last night saw more south summits with AAI (13) on top and IMG putting more of their team on the summit (13 thus far) with more to come from them. Brenda Walsh and Danuru Sherpa on the IMG team made the round trip from South Col to Summit and back in 8 hours- an amazing time for a westerner!

On the south a few teams are positioned to go for it at almost any moment including Paul and Fi and the team from Mountain LInk. Mountain LInk did post a report that several of their team were returning from C3 including "Chris and JJ" I assume this is Chris Balsinger, the only client and financier for this team. He was going for his last of the 7 summits so it appears he will not make it. A shame but somehow I bet he is OK with it.

Will Cross, also on the south, has kept a low profile this year on his third attempt. The diabetic is reported to be at the South Col so should be going to the summit tonight - weather permitting.

Two large teams are left on the north. Both make comments on the dangers on the north. Harry Kikstra's sight on Everest team of 24 reports they will go for the summit the morning of the 21st "... so far we count 10 or 11 dead climbers for 2006, while many people have not even started their summit bid. Too many take Everest not seriously and notable is that quite a few fatalities are from low-cost, budget expeditions, without proper sherpa support. It makes us think a lot ..."

Project Himalaya/DXCP is at ABC "...Many groups have been going earlier this year and there have been a much high incident of accidents so far. We are hopeing to find a little later, warmer, less windy and safer window to summit in. Its a hard game waiting though. We did get a lot better forecast for next week that we will be watching. From here in ABC we are 4 days away from the summit once we leave."

On the north it must look like a Yak sale with hundreds of yaks hauling barrels of gear and waste down the mountain and valley. Remember that all human waste is now carried out of the large base camps in an effort maintain the mountain. This is true on both sides. HimEx notes the exit in the last newsletter of the season.

With the mountain starting to get quiet a few thoughts of those left. The north side still has over 50 climbers it appears working towards the summit. On the south, it is far less In fact maybe less than 20 including Paul and Fi. This is a good new, bad news scenario. The good news is the route is well established with strong steps kicked in at the most difficult spots. The line is obviously fixed. But there has been a lot of stress on those lines and anchors so climbers must give an extra tug and visually inspect suspect anchors. There will not be crowds clogging up the route at the difficult sections but there will not be extra climbers and Sherpas available to help in an emergency. So the last waves must be very committed as well as prepared to be more self sufficient that the early or teams in the middle.

My best all to of them.

This has been one of the most deadly years on Everest in a decade. I will take a look at those deaths and explore what went wrong and what to consider about future Everest expeditions next week. Also a preview of my own adventure to Broad Peak and K2 starting next month.

May 19, 2006 - High Winds stop progress

After a spurt of summits this week, high winds have hammered teams on both sides. Adventure Consultants reports one of their best summit performances in years with 12 climbers on the summit. It appears that having "The Guy" there made a huge positive difference! Cotter summited as well -a  rarity these days for one of the major's owners to climb. Congratulations Guy. Everest Peace Project culminated a 4 year effort to get multiple nationalities on the summit at the same time - 10 made it!. Congratulations Lance and team - well done!

Ken Stalter and some of the SummitClimb team reported "The winds were very high and it was not safe to go higher."  Two members did make however.

Himalayan Project/DXCP have hunkered down at ABC on the north. They are looking 3 days before another attempt.

I am not sure where the MountainLink team stands after their comments on Wednesday "We have enough spare oxygen and spare food that in case we don't get to go on the 20th, we can go on the 21st. We have pretty much committed that that's our window. We're heading for a summit then on the 20th or the 21st. If it goes beyond that, we're done and we'll back out." AAI are stopped their climb and have returned to the South Col. An excellent decision.

More later today.

May 18, 2006 - South Summits and the world's longest climb

A big night last night with the Nepal MOT reporting 42 total summits from the south side. IMG reported 11 climbers (including 6 Sherpas) made the summit from the south side last night. Adventure Consultants and AAI are moving to the South Col today and will most likely do their bid tonight. AAI comments on how "hot" it is up there! Mountain Link is also on the Col and notes "...There are over 100 climbers anticipating a summit attempt during the next 4 days, so we should have a well established route by the time we go for the top!" Once again in spite of planning to not have crowds, there are crowds!!

On the north, Blair Falahey made it! Of note from the EverestMax team " ... Pauline Sanderson became the first person to complete the longest climb on earth from the dead sea to the summit of Everest." Well done!! But there are still many climbers trying to get to the summit including Ken Stalter and some of the SummitClimb team who are reported to be at C3. DCXP/Himalayan Experience is at ABC. Everest Peace Project goes for the summit tonight.

Tomas Olsson Missing

It is a sad day for most of the mountaineering community and for those who follow Everest climbs. After a successful summit Tomas Olsson disappeared during a rappel in a dangerous area of the Norton Couloir on the north side. He and his partner, Tormod Granheim, successfully summited and started their dream to ski down Everest. Tomas fell when an anchor came lose and he has not been located yet - almost 24 hours after the fall. The story is now well covered on several sites. It is hard to understand this accident from many angles but there are many positives. A young man who is an obvious expert in his sport living his life large and full. Family and friends providing strong support for his lifestyle. Courage to attempt the most severe challenges. I followed his writings on his blog over the past year as he trained in France for this adventure. He is full of optimism and energy.

As far as I know from other reports the search continues.

May 17, 2006 - Summit reports

Lots of summits last night: Rob and James made it and became the youngest Brits to summit Everest. They summited along with several other climbers with Adventure Peaks. The first summits of the season for the south happened with Jagged Globe with 6 on top. They reported a late summit due to deep snow. It had been snowing on and off all week. Also a Korean team and Swiss climber, Benedikt Arnold, and Sherpas made the South.

The "official" report for south side summits come from the Nepal Ministry of Tourism and is posted quickly on their site. Every Nepal expedition (and Chinese) have a Government employee called a Liaison Officer (LO) who spends much of the expedition at basecamp. It is the LO's responsibility see that rules are followed and to report any accidents, etc. but also to watch over the official summit report. Of course they are solely dependent on what the Sherpas and climbers say since they never actually climb!

On the north, there were multiple summits as well (the summit is not so big, I wonder if they took turns getting their photos?). The Everest2006 team put 6 on top and Adventure Peaks put 7 in total. As for our ski team, there were actually four skiers: Tomas Olsson (Sweden), Tormod Granheim (Norway), Olof Sundström and Martin Letzter. All summited and skied down on two separate routes - black diamond, I believe :)

On yet another sad note, British climber David Sharp's death was confirmed on the north side. It is unclear how and when it happened.

May 16, 2006 (second posting) - A Southern Push

It may seem that all the action has been on the north this year and to some extent it has. No climber has summited from the south or west yet and it seems like everyday we read about another team making it to the North Col and then to the summit. Well that is about to change. IMG notes that ropes are fixed above the South Col to the Balcony, the bottom of the ridge leading to the South Summit. Jagged Globe is at the South Col today and reports that they are gong for the summit tonight so they could be the first summits of the season on the south and ahead of the crowd.The three major commercial expeditions of International Mountain Guides (IMG), Alpine Ascents (AAI) and Adventure Consultants (AC) are all between C1 and the South Col preparing for summit bids Thursday or Friday. Mountain Link is also at C2. This has the potential of being a traffic jam!

But all three of these teams are lead by professional and have some of the most seasoned Sherpas in Nepal. Well before it gets to this point in the expedition, the team leaders sit down and discussing summit strategy to try to avoid having everyone clogging up the Hill on the same dark night. Yet in spite of this teamwork, it seems to happen like that every year. Reports come in of 50 climbers moving up between the Balcony and the South Summit. Tales of climbers getting frostbite waiting for a slow or hurt climber to clear out of the way. But somehow it all works.

I am especially excited for Paul and Fi Adler. By now you know this impressive young couple from Australia by their excellent dispatches and pictures. They are on the IMG permit but with their own Sherpas. They have been cooking all their own high altitude food and making their own decisions about acclimatization schedules. We have watched Paul suffer through a chest infection and now a sore throat while we have listened to Fi be interviewed by the ABC. They have unselfishly shared their pains, joys and excitement almost everyday for the past six weeks. Well, now they are off to the summit of Mt. Everest. They have trained for over a year for this week and by my estimate are ready. It will be tough for sure. But they are strong, smart and have wonderful attitudes. Their Sherpas are experienced and by now have created a lifetime bond with one another. But you know - for me - the summit for them has become the icing on the cake. I am so impressed with their smiles, optimism and courage that they have already benefited from the Everest experience. That said - go get that summit!

Meanwhile over on the north more teams are moving up to go for their summits in a few days. Everest Peace Project has moved to Camp 2 at 7600m. Lance published another nice video following the skyline from the North Col to C2 and showing some climbers off in the distance. Project Himalaya/DCXP have split into two teams with one moving to the North Col today and the other to follow in a day or so. They are targeting a summit bid next week. The Sight on Everest Team with Thomas Weber, the blind climber attempting the north side summit, are down at Taschi a small town at 4200m. They have suffered through several health challenges and are resting up for probable end of the month attempt.

Rob and James climbing with Adventure Peaks are trying to be the youngest Brits to summit. They are reported at the top camp at 8300m so should be going for the summit bid now. The EVERESTMAX team has an interesting set of satistics on their members showing weight, heart rate and other functions. I have not written too much about them but their mission is " ... expedition aims to be the first team to complete the ascent from the shores of the Dead Sea to the summit of Everest." They are now on their summit bid.

Now that HimEx has completed their mission (mission accomplished?) and they fixed the ropes to the summit and beyond, I wonder of they are going to leave them there or take them down since there is still a lot of traffic on the north. The deal was that each climber would pay HimEx $100 to use the lines but earlier reports noted that Brice was having a hard time collecting his money.

The Army continues to march on "The Summit Team has now left Base Camp and is making its way towards  Camp 1 as planned. It will then continue up through the successive camps until it reaches the lower slopes of the Summiot Pyramid. If all goes well, the team hopes to be standing on the summit at the weekend."

Check your favorite site a lot over the next day or two since there will be a lot of activity!

May 16, 2006 - Rubber Chickens, Climbing up, Skiing Down!!

Last year it was the rubber chicken carried up to the summit that made me smile. This year it is Tomas Olsson skiing down from the summit on the north side. He actually did it!

HimEx put another 15 on the summit yesterday after their 12 on Sunday. That broke down to 10 clients, 2 western guides and 15 Sherpas . But their most famous member, and an incredible feat, was the summit of double amputee Mark Inglis.

Several other teams are now in a position for north side summits with Adventure Peaks and EverestMax at the top camp.

The south teams continue to make great progress with IMG, AAI and AC will go over the next couple of days. Paul and Fi have started their move.

This is one of the most "interesting" moments of an expedition - the days and hours just before the summit bid. You feel every emotion in the book: excitement, fear, joy, sadness, and more. During the climb to the top camp you cover familiar ground - and it feels easier yet harder. You know this is the last time you will climb UP to the camp - the next time you may go right by on your way down. The top camps are new. For the vast majority of climbers they have not been there before. But if you had, then the feelings are very strong. You know this may be the last time you attempt the summit - ever.

Lying in the tent you close your eyes but check your watch every five minutes. You are horribly tired yet cannot got to sleep. Most likely you are one of three people in a two-person tent. You can hear every breath and feel every movement. But you don't care. You are going to climb Mount Everest.

Congratulations to all the summiteers thus far and safe climbing to the rest.

May 14, 2006 - More North Summits, Soon on the South

With the weather playing with the climbers, some teams hit the window while others continue to wait. There seems to be very short windows of perhaps a day or two that allow well positioned teams to summit but those down mountain to simply watch and wait. Of course the gamble is that by going to the highest camp assumes a window will appear, and when it does not, climbers spend more time in the "death zone" than they need to. Above roughly 26,000' or 8,000m the body dies. It is impossible to eat enough food to counter this slow death since the body cannot process the food not to mention almost all climbers simply do not feel like eating. And of course there is less available oxygen for the body to consume. All in all not a place for humans to hang out!

So in this context, HimEx, using their experience and weather forecast, played the game and won with reports of four summits on the north side early Sunday morning with the next summit wave predicted for Monday morning. The first clients to summit for a commercial expedition this season. Their latest dispatch notes "perfect weather". Meanwhile in a dispatch dated Sunday the 14th 2:00PM Everest time, Project Himalaya reports from ABC on the north "... Today the mountain is enveloped in cloud with a lot of high winds. Lots of teams are rallying for attempts in what seems to be another short window starting right now. We are not quite in position to try ..." The difference in weather observations is probably related to the time of day as well as their locations on the Hill. But suffice it to say, the conditions are "variable".

To summarize the situation on the north, HimEx has summited safely one team and is going for round two probably right now. Several other teams are at the North Col and will climb to the high camps for summit bids later this week, probably Thursday or Friday. This includes Everest Peace Project (EPP), Rob and James, Blair and Tomas - who will ski down. Finally Adventure Peaks, Project Himalaya and others are at Chinese Base Camp and will probably leave for the North Col soon.

An interesting audio dispatch is from the Everest Peace Project, a multi-national team attempting the summit on the north. The team takes turns making some brief comments before they leave for the North Col and hopefully a summit attempt this week. Worth a listen.

Let's see what is happening on the south side. Progress has been a little slower than on the north this year, similar to last year when weather was a strong inhibitor to fixing lines to the South Col. But this year, it seems that teams are taking their time and have not pushed as hard - a good thing in my view! By setting aggressive schedules, the brunt of the work falls on the Sherpas to carry loads, fix ropes and break trail often with short turn around times preventing sufficient rest breaks- even for the strong Sherpas.

IMG is at C2 today thus a summit bid mid week- weather permitting. Adventure Consultants are at C1 on their way to an end of the week summit bid. AAI leaves for their bid tomorrow, Monday.

In anticipation of teams climbing to the South Col this week, let's take a look at the climb above C3 and onto the South Col. As I have said before the terrain starts out fairly steep from C3. Most climbers are on supplemental oxygen and leave their tents after sunrise. It can be extremely cold before the sun moves over Lhotse and if the winds are the least bit strong, it is miserable. But as soon as the sun hits, and there are no clouds, then it can become horribly hot. Many climbers are in their full down suits trying to minimize the weight in their packs.

After about an hour they approach the Yellow Band,a strip of limestone that cuts through the Himalayas in this area. They leave snow and climb on smooth rocks at a 30 to 45 degree angle. This is only for about 100 - 300 feet depending on the route but it takes concentration. A jam usually occurs in this area if several teams are going for the summit on the same day. Once clear of the Band, it flattens out until the bottom of the ridge defining the South Col. This is actually on the Geneva Spur. Climbers are a little weary at this point more from the altitude than anything else so when they see 150' of 60 degree rock, ice and snow, it causes a long pause. But it is actually easier than it looks. From all the traffic, there are decent steps but also the uneven rock allows for good foot placement.

Topping the ridge, climbers follow a rocky "path" worn by other climbers and soon step on the South Col proper - an area the size of a football field with ten or twenty or thirty tents huddled together on the west end. But most climber notice the tents second - after they see the actual summit pyramid of Mount Everest for the first time. All the pictures, all the movies, all the stories do not prepare you for this sight ... and tonight they are going to climb!

May 13, 2006 - Wind, Delays and more Summits

What a difference a few days make! Climbers on both sides knew they were experiencing a great stretch of great weather but all good things must come to an end - apparently.

The film crew on the HimEx team have been allowed to break their oath of secrecy and reveal that high winds have delayed their attempt until today, Saturday, or maybe Sunday. This excerpt was dated today, May 13 "... the teams made it to camp 2 and 3 respectively, but had to spend 2 nights at these camps as the winds were higher in the morning than expected. Today they headed up to camps 3 and 4, ready for the first summit attempt tonight." They also report on a wealth of cameras, microwave links, video monitors and more space age technology that will be used to record their summit bid. Remember that Mark Inglis, the double amputee, is on this team. Take a read of the Tigress Productions Blog for more on all this excitement on the north side.

The Tigress report also noted something interesting about the HimEx Sherpas fixing the ropes on the north "... fix ropes all the way to the summit (they reached there on 30th April, which Russ thinks is a record – and for good measure fixed another 100 meters down the south side, so anyone coming up there will get a surprise)." Well, the Korean team must have either known this or been surprised as they summited from the North on Thursday and then descended on the south side. The "traverse" is unusual but not unheard of. Last year Piers Buck attempted the same feat except from the south but was thwarted by the worst weather in decades. In any event, congratulations to Mr. Park and team on their summit!

Over on the south the IMG team is positioned at C2 and, weather permitting, should go for the summit on Tuesday or Wednesday. Mountain LInk is back from their holiday in Katmandu and are looking at the Friday the 19th for a summit day as is the Adventure Consultants team. It looks Fi and Paul may be going for the summit next weekend.

Scott Woolums (Project Himalaya) just posted a nice video of climbing on the north side from the North Col to Camp 2 at 25,000'. Very nicely done!

The British Army's West Ridge Team executing with - well, um, what do you call it? - military precision - is set for the summit "...With fine weather on its side and all the teams set in place, the EWR 2006 expedition is now 24 hours ahead of schedule. Support Team A is currently forging ahead, breaking the trail, clearing ropes of snow and dropping off essential gear. They are closely followed by Andy Nelson's team whose job it is ..."

An update on the climber who died near the yellow band this week, he was Lhotse climber Pavel Kaney. Details are still unclear on exactly what happened. My sincere condolences to his friends and family.

May 11,2006 - Summit Fever and some North Side Summits

The excitement is building for summits this weekend as teams anticipate continued good weather. But Tomas from Ski Everest writes "... people in base camp are getting frustrated, some even give up and leave to go home. But most people stay and I have a feeling there will be a massive summit attempt within days." He goes on to note the need for coordination ..."Most of the big group are getting tactical since they don't want to head up at the same day as everyone else risking crowds that could mean traffic jams in the technical and exposed passages (like the second step) high up, and maybe even trying to avoid having to take part in potential rescue actions of other climbers and thereby risking there own lifes." I hope Tomas can ski around all those climbers when he skis from the summit! Check out his ski pictures on Tomas' site.

In the midst of all this buzz, however, AP reports that several climbers including Dave Watson and John Bagnulo summited today on the north side - the first non-Sherpas of the season. Watson was to have climbed the yet unclimbed Fantasy ridge but aborted the route due to dangerous conditions. There has been some speculation (amongst thousand of other ideas!!) that the Fantasy ridge might have been used by Mallory and Irvine in 1924.

My, my what a change from a few years ago! Then the buzz was all about crowds on the Hillary Step on the south side and the "congo" line up from the South Col. But with many teams now focusing on the north the same congestion concerns have emerged. Remember that it is less expensive to climb on the north due to lower permit fees charged by the Chinese versus the Nepalese.Also the north side does not the infamous Khumbu Icefall but it has the notorious "steps" that are technically more difficult than the upper route on the south So in other words - pick your poison!

But not every team is anxious to jump in. Project Himalaya notes "... A lot of people are moving up for early summit pushes. It should be very interesting what happens ... We are going to be a little more conservative and look towards a bit later in May. It may be a very good thing to let a bunch of teams summit and then the rest of the season will be a lot less crowded. There really are a lot of teams on the North side this year." Wise words!

I commented on the south side teams retreating to lower levels, including Katmandu, to rest before their summit bids. Well the same thing happens on the north in spite of the lack of permanent villages nearby. From the Everest 2006 team site "...short walk down to the Base Camp village to have a coke and a change of scenery. This village has to be seen to be believed! It is made up of a number of temporary huts with yak dung burning stoves in the middle to heat the space. Local villagers come up here to live for the season and try to eek out a living by selling drinks and fossils from Everest." The picture on the right is one I took in 1997 of a Grandmother with her grandchild in their tent at a nomad camp near Tingri, Tibet.

And another travel log is from Ken Stalter on his longer trip via jeep "Although this involved some traveling it is much less boring than base camp. Everyone is hopeful to get back up for a quick summit but we have to be patient. Jangmu is an ugly place but our room is clean and able to get a warm shower yesterday for $3 per night."

A non-Everest note is the tragic report of seven deaths and four missing on Elbrus, one of the 7 Summits and highest is Europe. Details are unclear but they experience temperatures of -50C. It is easy to think that alpine mountaineering is  simple and anyone can do it with all the publicity, technology and stories we read .. but the evidence challenges that view.

Also, yesterday was the 10 year anniversary of the 1996 disaster on Everest that took the lives of multiple climbers and world-class guides. One of the rescuers that year, David Breashears, is making a movie about the tragedy which should be in theaters in 2007.

May 10, 2006 - Death on the Lhotse Face

Paul and Fi Adler reported on their site the news of a Czechoslovakian climber who died on the Lhotse Face. As Paul writes "...found in the snow on the face below the Yellow Band. He was barely alive and had severe frostbite after spending the night out in the open. He was found by Sherpas heading up to the South Col. They had him on oxygen pretty soon, and moved him over to the fixed line. They were joined by a doctor from the Chilean team. They then attempted to get him down to the tents at camp 3, but by the time they got him there he was pronounced dead by the doctor." My condolences to the family and friends of this climber.

This is always sad news and questions start up as to how a climber on the primary route could possibly be left alone overnight. Further, this fuels the discussion about exactly how crowded is Everest south side aka the "Yak Route". Let's explore this is a little detail.

The area above the Yellow Band flattens out before a short, but steep climb over the Geneva Spur to the South Col. This "flat" area is a maybe a quarter mile long and on the west side rises steeply to the summit of Lhotse and on the east side drops sharply several thousand feet to the Western Cwm. The "trail" is usually packed by all the traffic and yesterday it was surely trodden given the lack of snow over the past week plus the traffic from the hundreds of Sherpas establishing Camp 4 on the South Col. There are fixed lines along the entire route and the only confusion is near the Geneva Spur where there are a lot of old lines so it is important to clip into the new one and not the old, weak lines.

Climbers going to the North Col usually leave about 8:00 in the morning from C3 to give the sun time to warm the area. The normal pacing of climbers soon strings everyone out with some climbers way ahead and some way behind, including those who might have left later from C3. On my 2003 climb, I drifted to the back of the line and soon found myself climbing with only one or two other people. I remember feeling like they were watching me and I know I was watching them since I did not want to be alone in this area. However, if I had slipped - caught my crampon on the line and fallen down the Face or blacked out and slipped a few hundred feet, they would never had noticed if they were ahead of me.

The details of most deaths on Everest are never known or revealed but there are many causes - some within the climber's control and most out of their control. In any event, another sad moment for everyone.

May 9, 2006 - Summits scheduled for May 13

With a good weather window now predicted for the upcoming week, teams are "scheduling" a summit for this Saturday - May 13. On the north, HimEx is looking at 2 teams attempting the summit on Saturday then Sunday. Mark Inglis, the double amputee, will be part of the Sunday team along with his camera crew. To see a picture of his prosthetic leg, click here. I am very impressed by this person.

Over on the south, base camp must be deserted with several teams now lower in the Khumbu for a few days of "recovery" before their summit bids. AAI is in Deboche, Adventure Consultants is in Pheriche. But the winner is this high altitude limbo contest is Mountain Link who returned to Katmandu!!! The theory of this deep descent is that your body will never really recover and rejuvenate at the 17,500 base camp altitude. So by spending a few nights at a lower altitude, say 15,000' your body will regenerate itself, start to heal cuts and bruises with increased blood flow and, of course, generate massive amounts of red blood cells which are the key to bringing oxygen to muscles. This approach is a variation of climb high, sleep low - the fundamental theory behind acclimatization.

The other item this demonstrates is the difference between a standard commercial expedition where climbers pay upwards of $45,000 and a pure custom expedition with a rich Texas oilman who paid $400,000! See this article for the details.

The route has been in on the north for about two weeks now and on the south it is up to the South Col. Fi Adler reports on the Sherpa traffic as she and Paull returned from a successful night at C3 "... On the climb down we met over a hundred Sherpas on their way up. As of yesterday, the lines to Camp 4 (The South Col) are now fixed so all the teams are now doing massive load carries to C4 - setting up camps and getting their stocks of oxygen cylinders in place. IMG alone moved 40 oxygen cylinders to camp 4 today. This made the climb down a little cumbersome at times - every time you meet another climber, one of you has to unclip from the rope and reclip on the other side of the climber." With their current schedule, we can expect to see them going for the summit around the night of May 16 or 17 - weather and health depending.

On the very difficult West Ridge route, the British Army has reached the ridge itself and established their Camp. Once again, if you have not visited their website, take a look - it is absolutely one of the best ever for covering an Everest expedition. Also, the writing is not bad either as shown here by climber Shaun Phillips "..All your romantic thoughts about climbing big mountains go out the window when you are stuck on a 50/60 degree slope trying to haul 40lbs plus of equipment up in near white out conditions, minus 20s and howling winds. Your only thoughts are how many more steps you have to do before you can stop for a rest..."

Bloody Hell!

May 8, 2006

Lot's of progress to report on both sides as climbers take advantage of good weather. Note this good summary from the Project Himalayan team "...This morning the summit was clear and the sun was as strong as we’ve seen it. By 8:30 one of our Sherpas, Tarke, was sighted at 8,200 meters, just 100 meters shy of our highest camp on the mountain, in the ongoing effort to get our oxygen into place for our summit bid. In the meantime, we’re witnessing a remarkably early summit window and many climbers have been working hard to get into position for an early attempt to reach the top. " Just about says it all!

Most of the dispatches from the north tell of climbers reaching 7300m and spending nights at the North Col or even higher camps. Teams are plotting their summit bids as evidened by Scott on Everest in his recent dispatch "...Once we receive news of the weather window, we'll try and make the following moves ..... Day 1:move to ABC 6,300m, Day 2:rest ABC, Day 3:move to North Col 7,050m (Camp 1), Day 4:move to Camp 2 at 7,800m, Day 5:move to Camp 3 at 8,300m, Day 6:summit attempt 8,848m... "

Many of the dispatches comment on health since that is a key factor after 5 weeks on the Hill. Blair Falahey has the most discouraging comments I read "...Unfortunately I have had the runs,so did not get much sleep.I have also got an acid feeling in my chest which meant that I could not eat or drink much at all.A Mars bar and a little water was all I felt like." He does go on to say he is ABC resting and will go for the summit soon.

The Everest Peace Project has released another nice video. These guys are in strong competition with Sight on Everest team for best video production. Actually, take a few minutes to watch and turn your sound up!

And over on the south, the route is almost to the North Col according to IMG. With AAI already spending a night at C3, they appear to be in the best spot for the first summits followed by the main IMG team then AC. Once you spend a night at C3, you normally return to BC, rest a few days and then go back up - about an 8 day turn around before the actual summit bid.

A few days ago, basecamp MD reported on a case of frostbite. This is a serious condition to be sure. This picture was of a friend of a friend who was on the north side in 2003 and he took his glove off for only a few moments to assist in a rescue and - well the picture tells the story. The issue is that our bodies are remarkable in protecting our organs (heart, lung, kidneys, etc.) at the expense of our extremities (fingers, toes, nose, etc.). So when a harsh situation like sub zero temperatures is combined with strong winds, the fingers and toes are usually the first to go - even if the exposure is for a brief moment. This is why it is so important to learn how to manuplate carabineers and ropes with gloves and mitts on and avoid taking them off  - even for a moment.

May 5, 2006 - The Lhotse Face

The past few days have challenged climbers on both sides with high winds but many on the north have spent a night or two at the North Col including Rob and James, the youngest Brit team who spent two nights at the North Col and climbed to 7300m. They are now back at ABC for some rest before returning for their summit bid!

On the south, C3 is the goal. AAI and some members from IMG and AC have spent a night at C3 and the other south side teams are on their way. Camp 3 is a difficult place. It is literally carved out of steep hard ice. It has been noted in several dispatches that you must use your crampons at all times  - even when moving between tents since the angles are steep and the footing is so slippery. This is not the time be casual. More on C3 later but first the climbers have to get there and here is an overview of what they will face:

Climbing the Lhotse Face is a big challenge after the Khumbu Ice Fall on the way to the summit. There are many ropes attached to the face with ice screws and anchors. Each rope is about 200' long so climbers must unclip their carabineers and jumars at each junction. This is a two step process so that the climber is always attached to the fixed line by at least one device. It is very normal for a long line of climbers to be going up and another long line coming down - usually Sherpas returning from carrying loads to the higher camps. So, in the middle of the Himalayas, you have a traffic jam!

It becomes very interesting when you need to pass someone since you share the same line. A high altitude ballet takes place. Like in an old west gunfight, you eye the other guy. As you get closer, you make your move to the right or left. Standing close to each other, you make sure your footing is fixed. With a few grunts and a smile, you unclip one of your carabineers keeping the other one attached to the lifeline. Reaching around the climber, you clip back into the line around him, then move the other ‘biner above this new placement. All this happens in a moment and you move on. Not every swap is this complex but everyone requires caution. One mistake and there is no recovery on the steep Face. Once you start to fall, there is nothing to stop you for thousands of feet. It is real. It is harsh. It is climbing Everest.

Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. You have to kick your crampon points into the ice stealing precious strength with each step. After a a few weeks, the path is fairly well set due to the thousands of kicks into the ice but one storm can have you starting all over again.

My experience has been that getting to C3, while hard, is where the real climbing of Everest begins. C3 is at 23,600'. The climb to the South Col, 8000m, is long, typically hot and exposes problems. It was on this climb, both times that I began to have doubts. I took the picture on the left of C3 from the Yellow Band. The yellow band itself is soft, crumbly limestone and is an extreme contrast from the ice or snow. There are two short (5 meter) sections that are a little steep. Again, not too difficult but the altitude really starts to take a toll in this part. Since this may be the first time some climbers have used bottled O's, the added discomfort of the mask, heavy bottle, gear, rock and some "real" climbing - this is the crux of the Geneva Ridge.

More on these challenges but it still looks good for climbers on both sides with the route already in on the north and progress on the south. Even though it has not been widely reported, I assume Sherpas are fixing line above C3 and are well on their way to the South Col.

May 3, 2006 - Under par at Basecamp!

One of my favorite sayings is "life is like an NBA basketball game, all the action happens in the last 2 minutes of the game." Well the recent dispatches may have me modifying my saying to include mountaineering. Teams continue to move up and down the Hill on both sides. Thankfully there is little negative news to note as the teams execute their acclimatization schedules. The weather has turned a little ugly with high winds reported on the south side causing the AAI team to retreat to BC early in the Icefall.

You may wonder what climbers do when they have an unscheduled rest day at basecamp. Over the past few years, our creative and talented explorers have put on concerts with the musical instruments they brought, played the world's highest football (soccer) match and this year had the 1st annual Khumbu Klassic Golf Tournament - compete with color commentary. For a laugh, visit the video on the Mountain Link site.

On a couple of more serious notes, Mark Inglis is attempting to be the first double amputee to summit Everest. He is on the north side and had a "slight"  mishap a few days ago - he broke his leg! Normally this would be an utter tragedy resulting in a massive rescue effort or worse. But in Mark's case, a new leg was sent up! He notes on his site "...just below half way down while arm-rapping (sort of sliding down the rope) one of the fixed line anchors pulled out of the ice/snow meaning a brief acceleration for me (some of it upside down, very interesting), I managed to arrest the slide only to find that the beautiful carbon leg on the right was now in two pieces! We all have radios so I ordered up a new leg from Wayne and Bob..." Amazing!

Finally, Basecamp MD has a nice summary of the teamwork that occurs when a climber needs help. It makes for some interesting reading as well as emphasizing how the teams on Everest pull together in a crisis. Luanne discusses the climber injured in the Icefall and, apparently, suffered a concussion "...we were notified that an injured climber was confused, vomiting and complaining of severe headache after being struck by a falling object mid-way through the icefall..." The Icefall continues to earn it's reputation as the most dangerous feature on the south side.

I have been through the Icefall more than 10 times and never wore a helmet but this year I see some pictures of climbers who have them on. Paul and Fi stand out in my mind. Helmets are not normally on the gear list but that may change for future expeditions.

So the climbing continues: on the north, teams have spent several nights at the North Col and are climbing higher. Teams on the south are at C2 and trying to spend a night a C3.

May 2, 2006 - First Summits!

HimEx reported today that 5 of their Sherpas summited on the north side after fixing ropes to the highest point. I would have to go back a research it but an April 30 summit has to be the earliest in many years. This is quite a contrast with last year which saw the first north summit on May 21 and had the latest first summit on the south in more than 40 years! Once again it shows the extreme strength of the Sherpas. Note that no climbers or western guides made the summit - it was an all Sherpa team.

While it is an incredible accomplishment for these strong Sherpas (three from tibet and three from Nepal) it would be a huge mistake to take their accomplishment as proof that Everest has become a simple "walk-up" and anyone can arrive at BC and 30 days later stand on top of the world. Per the HimEx statement, these five Sherpas have 27 summits of Everest between them with Phurba Tashi leading the team at 10 summits. They know the route, know the mountain, work as a tight team and had perfect weather conditions. In other words - a perfect day!

Well done guys, well done!

May 1, 2006 - Business as Usual on Everest

Well it is May 1 and most teams have been at it for the past 30 days. But for them it feels like 300 and thoughts are of the summit these days. If things (health, weather, route preparation) then the traditional mid-May summits are on schedule.

Teams on both sides and the West Ridge continue to make steady progress these days. Thankfully, there have been no further accidents and the weather appears to be behaving itself. The dispatches report business as usual with the normal comments about altitude, acclimatization issues and, of course, toilet habits! It is amazing that we humans seem to become fascinated with the lowest common denominator. But then again, if you have ever woken up to the sound of howling winds in sub-zero temperatures in a thin nylon tent at 23,000' and really, really, really had to go - well ...

Lets see where the teams are. First over on the north. Most teams have made it the North Col and some are spending the night at Camp 1. Bob Killip on the HimEx team notes "...We head up to the Nth Col again but this time sleeping for a couple of nights and then climbing up to 7500 metres to stay or at least tag Camp 2." As previously reported, the HimEx team has fixed the ropes to 8300m.

Scott Woolums has posted a nice video of their trip through Tibet to the basecamp on the north. It shows the poverty and undeveloped aspects of this region as well as the pristine nature of the Steps of Tibet. It is hard to understand that the area you see in the video is around 16,000'. There is also a nice view of Cho Oyu. This is the route every team takes coming from Nepal to climb Everest (north), Cho Oyu or Shisha Pangma. It is well worth a look.

On the south, teams are all over the Hill with the route now fixed to Camp 3, 23500'. Jagged Globe, Adventure Consultants and IMG (including Paul and Fi) are all back in BC after a successful trip to C2 and a short sortie up the Lhotse Face. Mountain Link is at C2 for the first time. AAI continues to lead all the teams by being back at C2 once again with the goal of spending the night at C3 for the first time.

This week I will detail the Lhotse Face and what it really takes to get to Camp3. It represents some of the most difficult climbing the teams will face on the south side.

April 27, 2006 - Progress on both side and a look back at a fall in a crevasse

Teams are finally making excellent progress against their acclimatization schedules. The weather continues to be good on the Hill allowing some serious work to take place.The fixed rope is set to 8300m on the north and Sherpas are starting to establish C3, 7700m, on the south. Adventure Consultants, IMG, AAI and others are either at C2 or back from C2 and now in BC for a little rest. Over on the north, equally good progress with several teams having made it to the North Col and some now moving to spend the night at C1.

Ladders are most often associated with the Khumbu Icefall on the south side but Scott on Everest with Adventure Peaks notes over on the north "...The top of the route currently has a couple of gapping crevasses, one spanned by three long ladders strapped together at around 7,000m.".

With teams now moving freely across the Western Cwm, I thought I would describe it is a little detail as well as share one of the most terrifying climbing experiences of my life - a fall in a crevasse. First the Cwm:

It is about 2.5 miles from Camp 1 to Camp 2 with an altitude gain of 1,500'. So it is not far and not that high but ... it is hot, very hot. The sun reflects off the walls of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse snow covered slopes making the temperature rise above 100F degrees. Yes, it can get that hot. Then it can be brutally cold if the cloud moves in, the wind picks up and it starts snowing. Out comes the Gortex layers and goggles. Smart teams are roped in groups of three or four so that if someone does fall in a crevasse, they can be easily rescued. Finally, if this is the first time in the Cwm, it is an awe-inspiring experience that opens up all your senses.

On my first Everest climb in 2002, we were moving from C1 to C2 for our second set of nights at ABC (or C2 on the south side). We had made good time through the Icefall and stopped at C1 for a food and water break. Snow started to fall had soon there was a whiteout. This is not unusual in the Icefall and Rob, Harldur and I roped up in addition to being clipped into the fixed line. It still amazes me that teams do not rope together when crossing crevasse prone areas you find in the Cwm or on Denali. Anyway we were half an hour above C1 when it happened. Here is the excerpt from my dispatch in 2002:

"I saw the small black hole in front of me, a tell tale sign of an emerging crevasse. I have crossed many of these at this point. So I followed the track to the right of the hole and prepared to take the extra large step designed to clear the visible - and invisible - obstacle. In a heartbeat, I fell through the trap door with a whoosh. Everything went dark as snow covered my face. I felt myself hanging in clear air. And it became silent. All in a heartbeat. My first sight was of the nylon rope digging into the ice wall. I intensely stared at it hoping that Haraldur was secured on the other end. It moved deeper into the ice. Solve the problem.

My mind became focused on getting out quickly. I looked down and to my right. There was my trekking pole resting on a snow powder shelf twenty feet below and there was clear blue ice for as far as I could see below the shelf. To my left was a brighter prospect, a similar powder shelf within reach of my left crampon point. About this time, Rob appeared above me anxiously inquiring about any signs of injury. He called out to Haraldur to hold tight. I reached out with my left foot to the powder shelf hoping for a foothold to leverage myself out. The snow puffed away into the crevasse carrying away my hope for an easy exit. I looked again at the rope cutting deeper into the ice wall and thought of my training where you put the handle of an ice axe between the rope and the wall to create a temporary edge. But before I suggested this maneuver, I drove the front points of my crampons into the ice wall. They held. I called to Rob to tell Haraldur to start pulling. Working together, I began to clear the icy trap. With Rob providing extra support, I soon stood beside the crevasse.

The walk to Camp 2 was long. My mind was preoccupied with the crevasse. I had lost all my energy and optimism. Haraldur, Rob, Bill and I made steady but very slow progress. The weather cleared up and now the sun was baking each of us. Off with Gortex, apply extra sunscreen, trade goggles for glacier sunglasses. Arriving at Camp 2, I was spent. I had absolutely nothing left. The final steps were on autopilot - no conscious decisions. I found my tent and sat down heavily on my pack.

I began to feel the emotions starting to escape: frustration, anger, guilt and fear. How did I step on the snowbridge? What if I had not been roped up? What if I had not been properly tied in? What if. The questions went on and on. Whoosh, darkness, hanging, quiet. The sequence repeated continuously in my head. How did this happen? I dwelled on the negative and on the fear. For the first time in the mountains, any mountain, I was afraid. I knew I needed to get a grip on myself but the fear was overwhelming. I saw myself hanging in clear air. I felt my feet reaching out to nothing. I saw the rope cutting deeper. I saw the faces of my family. It was about 3:00PM and I was thirsty and hungry but was not ready to do anything about it. I sat on my pack and thought about the event.

I remembered the story of another climber who had a friend die in a crevasse and he had to perform miracles to save his own life. I considered the danger I was exposed to and how many other people fall into crevasses on mountains. It was part of the deal. I decided to draw on my teammates for strength. I entered the tent at C2 where we ate our meals and told the team that I was shaken, very shaken. Haraldur and Rob talked everyone through exactly what had happened. I received glances throughout the conversation. Soon, someone made a joke. I joined in. It was working.

I slept fitfully that night and spent the next half-day dwelling on what had happened. It wasn't until I read again a letter that Ashley had given me before I left home that I started feeling better. I felt my confidence increase and the will to continue the climb return. I pondered what I had learned. How could I avoid such a misstep? The experience was turning into lessons. After a rest day at C2, we left at sunrise for a trip up the Lhotse face. I had one of my best days on the Hill yet."

April 25, 2006 - British Videos and an early South Summit Bid?

The British West Ridge team continues to make good progress. Their web site is well worth a visit. They have an impressive collection of pictures, diaries and videos. If you are an Everest or high altitude climbing fan, take a few minutes to watch their videos on training, clothing, winds and more. Educational and interesting.

Over on the north side, teams are now at Camp1 - 21,000' and spending the night. They expect to get higher over the next few days. Ken Staler reports on the weather "...During today’s call the sun was shining and there was “almost no wind” at ABC, but Ken says it is cold.It was 6 degrees F. in my tent earlier this morning."

The MountainLInk team had an interesting posting today - a potential summit bid? "... Today is a rest day, and tomorrow the group will move to Camp 1, then Camp 2 the following day.  We plan to spend 4 or 5 days between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and if the weather is good possibly make an attempt at the summit. " If they pull this off it would be a unique schedule on Everest in that they have not spent nights at Camps 1,2 and 3 and return to basecamp before attempting the summit. While this is not unheard of, it is extremely rare these days.

There are several teams now at Camp 2 on the south side. For an audio dispatch, take a listen to JJ -Jeff Justman on his climb to C1 and some comments on the Sherpas deaths.

April 24, 2006 - Ropes fixed above C1 on North and Camp 1 overview on the South

After what seems like ages, the real climbing has started on both sides. Himalayan Experience reports their Sherpas have fixed the rope above camp 1 and climbed to 8300m and their team has made a round trip (not overnight) to the North Col. IMG and Paul and Fi are at Camp 1 without problems as is Adventure Consultants. Alpine Ascents International (AAI) is already to Camp 2 and reports lots of traffic between C1 and C2 as Sherpas ferry tents, food, fuel, oxygen bottles and other gear higher up the Hill.

For many climbers this is the first "taste" of Everest. While you still cannot actually see Everest until you go another quarter mile up the Western Cwm, you do have a spectacular view of Pumori and other 7000m hills. I have already described climbing the Icefall so here is a description of the last steps to Camp 1.

Once you top the 'Fall there is a large flat expanse of snow. It looks easy but you are tired. Normally climbers take a rest and take some food and water before they continue. You cannot see the actually camp site nor tents from here but you leave anticipating a quick walk. Is always a surprise how meandering the route is since you soon discover that the area is filled with crevasses. This is the end of the Western Cwm and the initial section of the Icefall just before the glacier drops over a steep rock fall to create Khumbu Icefall. Of course all this is hidden by hundreds of feet of ice so all you see is snow, ice and deep cracks.

There are normally five to 8 ladders in this area along with a fixed rope. Climbers are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area. There is a tendency to relax your guard but now is not the time. The walk has a gradual climb but you soon find yourself breathing hard and looking for the Camp. Anywhere from half to a full hour l