Preparation:

Q: How should I prepare for the climb?
A: Focus on aerobic capacity, muscular strength and attitude. The elevation will stress your lung capacity needed to provide oxygen to your muscles. Your legs will hurt on the climb up and your knees on the way down. You may have some pains in your back depending on your overall condition. So, get in shape before climbing this hill! I run, lift weights, stretch and use visualization techniques to address these areas. Check out my Everest pages for more details on how I trained for Everest.

Q: Alan, this sounds like a lot of work. I heard that Longs is not that hard.
A: I understand. It is common to hear that you can just walk up the highest peak on the Front Range and for some people it is true. But here are my observations and experience. I have climbed on and summited Longs more than 30 times. I see people sitting at the keyhole with severe headaches. I have seen people in the trough taking a step and sitting down. I have seen people run to the summit. It all depends on your conditioning and the affects of altitude that day on that person. By the way, I was the person sitting at the keyhole with the severe headache as I was training for Everest, the second time. I went down and did not summit that day.

Gear

Q: What kind of gear do I need?
A: For the non-technical routes take the basics for all climbs: extra clothes, water, food. I like the CamelBak small packs, like the Peak Bagger, which allow room for clothing and food and has the water reservoir with a tube that allows you to sip water continuously. The technical equipment depends on the route but usually includes a long handle ice axe, crampons, helmet, ropes and protection. Rock shoes are nice on the Cables route. I have a gear page for reference for my overall climbs. Cell phones may or may not work depending on your service. Verizion seems to have the best coverage. I have ATT/Cingular and cannot get a signal anywhere on Longs other than just below the Keyhole and on the north side of the summit. However DO NOT COUNT ON YOUR CELL PHONE for a rescue. If the weather is bad it make take hours or days for a rescue team to reach you and you will die in harsh conditions. If you are in trouble, turn around immediately.

Q: What kind of clothing?
A: Layer your clothing and be prepared for rain, sun and wind. Never wear blue jeans or cotton clothing since they will not dry quickly enough when wet and thus increasing your chances for hypothermia if you get cold. A climber died on the summit in 2004 because of this. A wind jacket, hat and sunglasses with sunscreen are a must. Your shoes should be broken in. I see people in tennis shoes and some in heavy leather boots. In any case, make sure they fit and your socks stay dry. You may get wet feet at some point and at any time of the year, so a change of socks is a good idea. I always carry gloves and a headlamp plus a basic first aid kit. If you are climbing outside of the summer time period, go prepared for anything. The winds may be hurricane force, snow squalls appear suddenly - be prepared to turn around with no notice or regret.

Q: What about food and water?
A: Obviously you need to carry everything with you. There is no safe water on the climb from lakes or streams without heavy treatment. I suggest at least 2 liters of water - one on the way up and one for the return. Also a liter to be consumed before you start the climb - while driving to the trailhead, over breakfast, etc. I have found by drinking a reasonable amount of water before you start, you stay ahead of the water loss game. If you feel thirsty, it is too late!

Climbing Longs

Q: Which route is most popular?
A: The Keyhole by a huge margin. There are three non-technical routes: Keyhole, Loft Route which is not as popular and a bit shorter than Keyhole route but harder and Keplinger's Couloir. It is hardly ever climbed, due to a long (2 day) approach. This was the route taken on the first ascent of Longs.

Q: How long will it take?
A: The Keyhole climb should take anywhere from 8 to 14 hours, depending on weather and your level of fitness. Most people plan on a 12 hour day. It is about the same time up and down. This being said, I talked to a 24 year-old last summer at the trailhead who had just made the round-trip in 5 hours! He ran it ... You need to be off the summit by noon in the summer time so that means being on the trail before 6:00 AM at the absolute latest. Some people start as early as 2:00 AM just to be sure. The Loft is a bit shorter by mileage but a little longer by time due to a few difficult areas. If you start before 3:00 AM and are not at the Keyhole by 9:00AM, turn back, you are going too slow. If you are not on the summit by noon, turn back, you are putting your life in danger from lightning. Thunderstorms develop quickly so even if it is clear, turn back. If there are clouds forming turn back. There is always another day - even if you are from out of Colorado.

Q: What kind of weather conditions will I experience?
A: Hot and sunny, cold and windy! Temperatures can easily reach 0 degrees F in the winter and above 80 F in the summer. Because of the elevation, on a sunny day, the sun is oppressive. The winds are one of the biggest problems in the winter and can be all year round. Check the weather for Estes Park, Colorado to get some sense of what it is like. I use the "hour by hour details" before going up. If it rains, it may be a deluge so be prepared with your gear. In August, 2002 we ran into 40 m.p.h. wind gusts, sleet and driving rain. We got very cold but luckily it lasted only about an hour and by having the proper gear, we never got into trouble. The summit of Longs has recorded the state's highest wind gusts of 200 m.p.h. twice in the 1980s. Both times the winds blew apart the weather instruments

Q: Will altitude sickness a problem?
A: Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000'. Especially if you live at low elevations and come to Colorado and jump on a trail without spending a few days letting your body adjust. The trailhead is at 9,240' so even if you stay or live in Denver at 5,280' there is an adjustment. The best you can do is drink as much water as you can on the climb, protect yourself from the sun and wind and if you feel light-headed or nauseated take a break, have some water and food. Use your best judgment if you should go on. The only cure for altitude sickness is to go lower as fast as possible. Usually you need to descend 1,000' to start feeling better.

Q: What is the biggest problem most people face?
A: Most people underestimate this mountain. You can see it from the airport and highways. You hear about "everyone" climbing it and then see all ages, shapes and sizes on the trail. Surely I can make it! And, about a third do. Many people get discouraged beyond the Keyhole when you deal with rocks, snow and steep climbs. They did not drink enough water and are dehydrated. If there are no thunderstorms or snow squalls pounding you, a little mental stiffness is all that is required at this point for most climbers on Longs.

Q: Is it dangerous?
A: Absolutely. You should attempt Longs with an appropriate amount of care. A total of 56 people have died on Longs including 8 heart attacks and 6 by lightning. The most dangerous part is called the Ledges, just around the corner from the Keyhole - the most popular route. It is steep and slippery with a 1000 foot drop to Glacier Gorge. In the summer of 2007, a Lady took the wrong route on the Ledges and fell from the ridge near a spot named the False Keyhole. It appears she climbed too high from the standard route. She was rescued after spending a long, cold and lonely night alone.This is an understandable mistake in that the route a few hundred yards from the Keyhole takes a u-turn and climbs. Upon the return people sometimes miss this turn and keep going higher thinking the False Keyhole is the true Keyhole. If this sounds confusing, it is. But it easily avoided by sighting the bullseyes clearly marked on the route from the Keyhole to the summit. Just take a direct line to each one. Keep in mind that sometimes they are above, below and even behind you! It is easier than it sounds - don't give up, just use your eyes.

Q: Can I do it?
A: What kind of shape are you in? Do you give up easy? Do you follow advice? Do you have a buddy that you share the experience with and lean on when it gets hard? Do you really want to climb Longs? The bottom line is that with proper preparation and a positive attitude, you can do it! But if you don't try, you will never know. Longs is a beautiful trail with so much variation that just being out there feels good. And remember, that standing on the summit of any mountain is not the end-game. It is having fun and telling all those lies the next day!