Q: Where is it
A: On the eastern edge of Rocky Mountain National Park in
Colorado in the US. It is the 14th highest mountain in Colorado at 14,256'
and one of the most popular 14ers. It's 'Diamond Face' is known as one
of the best vertical face climbs in the world. The nearest city is Estes
Park and major airport is Denver International.
Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: The prime climbing time is from mid July to late August,
however, it is climbed year round. Early Spring (late May through June)
and Fall (September and October) are less crowded and offer incredible
views. Between November and June it is extremely windy and with deep snow
at times. Longs is quite difficult in the winter with winds normally at
30 mph and regularly gust to 70mpg - a hurricane. The snow is not bad since
the winds blows it away but it can be deep on the Loft Couloir or beyond
the Keyhole.It also can be very deep in the trees below treeline so it
is important not to stray from the trail ... if you can find it in the
winter.
Q: How hard is it to climb Longs Peak?
A: Depends on the route. There are over 175 routes on Longs.
The Keyhole route is the most popular
by far. You gain almost 5,000' from trailhead to summit and walk 15 miles
round-trip. The Loft route is an excellent
alternative to the crowded Keyhole. The North
Face or Cables route offers an easy 5.4 technical climb to the summit.
In the winter, every route to the summit requires
crampons and an ice axe (the base definition of "technical"). Many years
at least one or two people lose their life on this climb mostly due to
lightning or falls above the Keyhole.
Q: How does Longs compare with the other Colorado 14ers?
A: Depending on the route, your conditioning and experience
Longs can be a moderate climb or your most difficult. For the Keyhole,
many people find it a wonderful challenge. When compared to 14er walk-ups
such as Quandary, Bierstadt or Evans for example, Longs is in a different
league. For more challenging 14ers such as Crestone Needle, Maroon Bells
or Capital it is somewhat easier. In general the weather makes all the
difference. Longs has high winds mostly year-round especially in the winter
thus increasing the difficulty dramatically.
Q: Is it dangerous?
 A: Absolutely.
Longs should be attempted with an appropriate amount of care. The most
dangerous part is called the Ledges, just around the corner from the Keyhole
- the most popular route. It is steep and slippery with a 1000 foot drop
to Glacier Gorge. In the summer of 2007, a Lady took the wrong route on
the Ledges and fell from the ridge near the route named the False Keyhole.
It appears she climbed too high from the standard route. She was rescued
after spending a long, cold and lonely night alone.This is an understandable
mistake in that the route a few hundred yards from the Keyhole takes a
u-turn and climbs. Upon the return people sometimes miss this turn and
keep going higher thinking the False Keyhole is the true Keyhole. If this
sounds confusing, it is. But it easily avoided by sighting the bulls eyes
clearly marked on the route from the Keyhole to the summit. Just take a
direct line to each one. Keep in mind that sometimes they are above, below
and even behind you! It is easier than it sounds - don't give up, just
use your eyes.
Q: How many people had summited and how many people had died
trying?
A: 15,000 people attempt it each year with a success rate
of about 30% according to Rocky Mountain National Park Rangers. My best
guess s that well over 200,000 people since it was first climbed in 1868.
A total of 56 people have died on Longs including 8 heart attacks and 6
by lightning.
Q: How should I prepare for the climb?
A: Longs will test your conditioning. It is hard on your
lungs and legs. Focus on aerobic capacity, muscular strength and attitude.
The elevation will stress your lung capacity needed to provide oxygen to
your muscles. Your legs will hurt on the climb up and your knees on the
way down. You may have some pains in your back depending on your overall
condition. So, get in shape before climbing this hill! Running, swimming,
cycling, weights and stretching are all good ways to get in shape.
Q: Will altitude sickness be a problem?
A: Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000'. Especially
if you live at low elevations and come to Colorado and jump on a trail
without spending a few days letting your body adjust. The trailhead is
at 9,240' so even if you stay or live in Denver at 5,280' there is an adjustment.
The best you can do is drink as much water as you can on the climb, protect
yourself from the sun and wind and if you feel light-headed or nauseated
take a break, have some water and food. Use your best judgment if you should
go on. The only cure for altitude sickness is to go lower as fast as possible.
Usually you need to descend 1,000' to start feeling better.
Some people take Diamox a few days before starting the ascent. There is
no downside other than some annoying tingling in your fingers and more
peeing (by design) but I have used it occasionally and found it helps.
If you want to go the 'natural' route you can take Ginkgo Balboa starting
5 days before climbing. I have used it once and if I use drugs, I use Diamox
now on my big climbs.
Q: What is the biggest problem most people face?
A: Some people underestimate this mountain thus the 30% summit
rate. You can see it from the airport and highways. You hear about "everyone" climbing
it and then see all ages, shapes and sizes on the trail. Surely I can make
it! And, about a third do. Many people get discouraged beyond the Keyhole
when you deal with rocks, snow and steep climbs. They did not drink enough
water and are dehydrated. If there are no thunderstorms or snow squalls
pounding you, a little mental toughness is all that is required at this
point for most climbers on Longs. But to be clear is is a long and physical
day and not to be taken lightly.
Q: What kind of gear do I need?
A: For the non-technical routes take the basics for all climbs:
extra clothes, water, food. I like the CamelBak small packs, like the Peak
Bagger, which allow room for clothing and food and has the water reservoir
with a tube that allows you to sip water continuously. The technical equipment
depends on the route but usually includes a long handle ice axe, crampons
in the winter and a helmet, ropes and protection for all seasons. Rock
shoes are nice on the Cables route. I have a gear
page for reference for my overall climbs. It has been updated for 2010.
Q: DO cell phones and SPOT Locators work on Longs??
A: Cell phones may or may not work depending on your service.
Verizon seems to have the best coverage. I have ATT and cannot get a
signal anywhere on Longs other than just below the Keyhole and on the
north side of the summit. I use a SPOT locator for my family to follow
me and it works well on Longs as long as it is pointed up into the sky
clear of rock walls. DO NOT COUNT ON YOUR CELL PHONE for a rescue.
If the weather is bad it make take hours or days for a rescue team to
reach you and you will die in harsh conditions. If you are in trouble,
turn around immediately.
Q: What kind of clothing?
A: Layer your clothing and be prepared for rain, sun and
wind. Never wear blue jeans or cotton clothing since
they will not dry quickly enough when wet and thus increasing your chances
for hypothermia if you get cold. A climber died on the summit in 2004
because of this. A wind jacket, hat and sunglasses with sunscreen are
a must. Your shoes should be broken in. I see people in tennis shoes
and some in heavy leather boots. In any case, make sure they fit and
your socks stay dry. You may get wet feet at some point and at any time
of the year, so a change of socks is a good idea. I always carry gloves
and a headlamp plus a basic first aid kit. If you are climbing outside
of the summer time period, go prepared for anything. Winter climbing
on Longs is just as severe as anything on the planet. The winds may be
hurricane force, snow squalls appear suddenly - be prepared to turn around
with no notice or regret.
Q: What about food and water?
A: Obviously you need to carry everything with you. There
is no safe water on the climb from lakes or streams without heavy treatment.
I suggest at least 2 liters of water - one on the way up and one for
the return. Also a liter to be consumed before you start the climb- while
driving to the trailhead, over breakfast, etc. I have found by drinking
a reasonable amount of water before you start, you stay ahead of the
water loss game. If you feel thirsty, it is too late!
Q: Which route is most popular?
A: The Keyhole by a huge
margin. The Loft Route which is not as
popular as the Keyhole is a bit shorter and harder. Keplinger's Couloir
is seldom climbed due to a long approach. This was the route taken
on the first ascent of Longs. The North
Face route is also popular for climbers wanting more of a rock climbing
experience. This used to be called the Cables route before the cable was
removed since it attracted lightening!
Q: How long will the Keyhole route take?
A: The Keyhole climb should take anywhere from 8 to 14 hours,
depending on weather and level of fitness. Most people plan on a 12 hour
day. It is about the same time up and down. This being said, I talked to
a 24 year-old one summer at the trailhead who had just made the round-trip
in 5 hours! He ran it ... You need to be off the summit by noon in the
summer time so that means being on the trail before 6:00 AM at the absolute
latest. Some people start as early as 2:00 AM just to be sure. The Loft
is a bit shorter by mileage but a little longer by time due to a few difficult
areas. If you start before 3:00 AM and are not at the Keyhole by 9:00AM,
turn back, you are going too slow. If you are not on the summit by noon,
turn back, you are putting your life in danger from lightning. Thunderstorms
develop quickly so even if it is clear, turn back. If there are clouds
forming turn back.
Q: Should I camp and make it a 2 day climb?
 A: This
is very popular in the summer months and incredibly rewarding with fantastic
views. The Boulder Field is the place to camp. There are rock walls that
specify designated camping spots. There is no reliable running water but
there are solar toilets. Water might be available in early summer depending
on the snowfall that winter. Be aware that it might be very windy anytime
of the year so make sure you secure your tent well.
Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: Almost all the Longs climbers never a pay for a climb
of Longs. But the costs can range from $200 to $500 for a guided climb
depending on who you use and how many in your party. Estes Park based Climbing
Life Guides is is a
good service to investigate.
Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: No, it is inside Rocky Mountain National Park but if you
use the Keyhole Trailhead you will not need even a park pass. If you are
camping you will need a back country permit from the Park including camping
at the Boulder field. There are only a few spaces there and a reservation
is strongly suggested in the summer months. The reservation number is (970)
586-1242.
Q: Can you get rescued on Longs?
A: Yes, but. Park Rangers from Rocky Mountain National
Park rescue people throughout the Park but it is nothing to depend upon. It
usually requires a huge amount of manpower and equipment, sometimes helicopters
and can take hours if not a day to reach climbers depending on conditions
and location. So, yes, getting a rescue is possible but should never be
used as a reason to do anything you are not comfortable and experienced
at high on Longs.
Q: What kind of weather conditions will I experience?
A: Hot and sunny, cold and windy! Temperatures can easily
reach 0 degrees F in the winter and above 80 F in the summer. Because of
the elevation, on a sunny day, the sun is oppressive. The winds are one
of the biggest problems in the winter and can be all year round. Check
the weather for Estes Park, Colorado to get some sense of
what it is like. I use the "hour by hour details" before going up. If it
rains, it may be a deluge so be prepared with your gear. One August, we
ran into 40 m.p.h. wind gusts, sleet and driving rain. We got very cold
but luckily it lasted only about an hour and by having the proper gear,
we never got into trouble. The summit of Longs has recorded the state's
highest wind gusts of 200 m.p.h. twice in the 1980s. Both times the winds
blew apart the weather instruments. See my page on the Anatomy
of a Storm to see pictures of a forming storm on Longs.
 Q: How
many times have you summited?
A: 19 times as of July 2010. I use Longs as a training
climb for my other expeditions. I have climbed on it over 70 times in every
month of the year.
Q: What is your favorite route?
A: The Loft is my favorite because it is less crowded and
a bit more challenging than the Keyhole. But also I like the North Face.
While I have not climbed the Keiner's route yet, I am looking forward to
this more technical climb one day.
Q: What kind of weather conditions do you normally experience?
A: From late June to early October it is absolutely beautiful
with clear blue skies, mild temps and manageable winds - however the threat
of killer lightening from thunderstorms keeps me away from the summit from
noon on. In the other months, Longs is extremely windy. While snow is sometimes
a problem, the high winds keep the lower slopes above treeline free from
anything very deep. Near the summit the snow depths can
be deep and it becomes serious alpine climbing conditions.
Bottom Line
Longs is a mountain that offers something for everyone. The normal route
of the Keyhole is attainable by almost anyone in good shape. The Diamond
offers world-class rock climbing. And the other routes - North Face, Keiners,
Keyhole Ridge, Loft - all offer unique challenges. Many people use Longs
as their first 14er, some make it their last but whatever order you climb
the Colorado 14ers in, Longs is a must that will provide lifelong memories. |
