Keyhole Route
Longs Peak
14,259 feet, 4346 meter
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The trail in the WinterI see all kinds of people climbing Longs in the summer. The success rate in reaching the summit is about 30%. Most people fail because they start too late (need to be on the trail no later than 5-6AM), do not take enough food or water, or simply underestimate how long the day will be (9 - 14 hours depending). There are guide services that do Longs but unless you want to do the Diamond (technical rock climbing), I don't think you need them. Almost anyone can summit Longs in good weather and with proper preparation.

There are three basic parts to the day: 1) trailhead to the Keyhole, 2) keyhole to summit and 3) back down. The first part is simple enough: beautiful trail through the pine forest rising above the tree line at 10,500'. You will see the trail going left to right above the treeline. It should take between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours for this section. If it is windy, this will be your first test of Longs. After following the lazy switchbacks for a while, you go around Mt. Lady Washington in a big U. At the most Northern part of the trail, there are great views of where you came up and where you need to go. It is still about an hour or 1.5 hours from here to the next goal: The Boulder Field.

The Keyhole looking EastYou continue on a slightly steeper route, not bad until the boulder field where you "scramble" over the big rocks. Be careful not to twist an ankle. There are campsites here that must be reserved several weeks, if not months, in advance via the Park Service. There are a pair of solar toilets - which some people need since exploding bowels is sometimes a by-product of altitude! At this point most people have spent about 3 hours, maybe less. This is a good time to take a short break with food and more water -especially if it is a warm day. With the low humidity in Colorado (less than 10% on a summer day) you do not notice how much water you lose through perspiration and it must be replaced to avoid dehydration.

After another 30-45 minutes across the huge boulders, you climb a short but steep scramble to the ridgeline and the Keyhole. Now it becomes interesting. Turn South and follow the well marked trail along a very steep rock wall, called the Ledges. The trail is marked with red and yellow "bulls-eye" targets painted on the rocks. Watch carefully because when you think you need to go up, you go down a couple hundred feet and then back up again. It can be confusing. On a busy Summer day, there will be The Ledges in early Novemberpeople all over this steep and rocky area. If there is snow, as shown on the right, be especially careful since it is a sharp 1,000' drop to the valley below.

After another 30 minutes, you reach a 600' couloir called the Trough. This is the point many people stop, but shouldn't. While you are tired, if you are drinking enough and snacking on an energy bar you should have the energy to climb the rock filled narrow valley. There will probably be some snow here, even in late July or August. It is shaded from the sun by high walls to it's South and East. Take it easy, be careful and you should reach the top in about 45 minutes. Carefully climb the huge boulders at the top and pause to take in the next challenge: The Narrows.

The Trough in SeptemberThe Narrows is the most intimidating section of the climb for most people. About 1,000 feet of narrow ledge (3 feet wide at one point) that hugs a 1,500' rising wall on your left and a 1,000' clear-air drop to your right. Not as bad as it sounds but bad enough that you need to be focused on each step! At some points, you choose between going around rocks by clinging to a tiny ledge or squeezing between the wall and the rock. It keeps it interesting! If it is wet or icy, take special care. It can get crowded here in the summer, so take your time and let people pass you on the outside while you hug the wall.

The Narrows is a short walk - about 15 minutes. However, you are greeted by another big boulder at the end that guards the next turn that takes you to the Homestretch. After climbing up at the end of the Narrows, you turn North and you can see the edge of the summit. SO close, yet so far away. Over the next 45 minutes, you walk upright, then on threes and finally on all fours to the 45 degree smooth granite slab called the Homestretch. If it has rained, this can be slick as ice. But again with careful concentration, you are soon at the summit edge. From the Keyhole to the summit, it takes about 2 hours, maybe more. The Narrows

Congratulations, you have summited Longs Peak, the highest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park. Enjoy the summit, sign the log, say hello to the marmots and have some lunch ... and water. Get off by noon or at any approaching thunderheads. More people are killed by lightning than falling on Longs. This is serious and not a time to take risks. You have just spent 6 or more hours to get here and you have about the same time to return to your car.

Looking West from the SummitFeeling exhilarated, proud and very satisfied, remember that the summit is only half-way. The down-climb has two challenges: the Homestretch and the last hour. The most common way down the Homestretch is on your butt. Not graceful, but who cares at this point. The last hour you are ready to be in the car heading home or to a nice meal. Your legs are hurting, you are probably hot and sweaty and you may have some small cuts on your hands or blisters on your dogs. But, keep in mind that you stood on top of this big rock! Not something everybody has done but more important: you reached your goal. This was between you and the mountain ... and you won - this time! Something you will always remember.Marmott on the summit