Q: How hard is it?
A: There are many routes which can vary from extremely difficult and technical to semi-technical. This means ropes, crampons and ice axe. Due to the crevasse danger, you usually rope up in teams. The ice climbing can be WF4 for short sections. My personal experience was mixed. The first time, I found it very challenging due to an extremely long day - 13 hours. The other times, it became easier with my improved conditioning and experience. I used a Guide from Chamonix on the first climb and soloed the other two.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: As with most Northern Hemisphere peaks, Summer is best since every day it gets warmer with less threat of snow. I climbed it in July and August.

Preparation:

Q: Anything special about this mountain?
A: Since it is such a long day, you will need to focus on aerobic capacity, muscular strength and attitude. The elevation will not too demanding but will stress your lung capacity to provide the needed oxygen to your muscles especially at the end of the day. You do need to carry a heavy pack but will need to have strong leg muscles. For ideas on training for big mountains, please check out my Everest training page.

Gear

Q: What kind of gear do I need?
A: Mont Blanc requires all the basics for any climb: extra clothes, water, food. Plus protection against the extreme cold and wind. Obviously there is the climbing gear. I have a gear page for reference for my overall climbs. I used most everything on the 'climb' column for Mont Blanc.

Q: What kind of clothing?
A: Layer your clothing and be prepared for extreme cold and wind. Mont Blanc is famous for fast changing weather. Since you start before sunrise, it will be very cold. If it is windy or you hit queues at some of the difficult spots, you will be glad to have all your layers plus Down or Gortex. In the afternoon on a fine day, protection from the sun will be required and ventilation from warm clothes needed to prevent overheating.

Q: What about food and water?
A: Obviously you need to carry everything with you. Lot's of water - at least two liters plus Power Bars or GU.

Climbing Mont Blanc

Q: Which route is most popular?
A: The Three Mont-Blanc-route is the most popular. It means starting at Chamonix, up the Aiguille du Midi, stay at the Col du Midi (Cosmiques hut), then traverse two peaks: Mont-Blanc du Tacul, Mont-Maudit and summit Mont-Blanc Also, the Aiguilles du Gouter over the bosses ridge is very popular and some consider it to be the "classic" route. But there are many other routes on this hill that are extremely technical and subject to avalanches.

Q: How long will it take?
A: 2 days for the normal route. You arrive in Chamonix around noon and take the gondola to the Agile du Midi, a stunning rock summit. From here you walk half a mile across a knife edge snow ridge and go down to the hut, Cosmiques. Here you have a nice dinner and sleep in dorm style with one hundred other climbers. The wake-up call is around 2:00AM when you have a nice French breakfast, dress and leave for the summit no later than 3:30. Eight hours later, you summit and take 5 hours to return to the gondola for the ride down. A pleasant 13 hour day!

Q: What kind of weather conditions will I experience?
A: In July and August, it is not too cold. But weather on Mont Blanc can develop quickly so you need to carry all your layers. In 1999, a fast moving system dropped the temperatures and brought freezing rain to the route causing several people to die that afternoon. Sadly, over 1,000 people have died climbing Mont Blanc.

Q: Will altitude sickness a problem?
A: Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000'. Most people do not seem to have severe problems on Mont Blanc probably because of the high percentage of 'locals' on the mountain. As always be careful to stay hydrated and go down if you start feeling bad.

Q: What is the biggest problem most people face?
A: Mont Blanc is not a terribly hard climb so many people underestimate it. You need to be prepared for bad weather. There are a few difficult sections that require close attention to footwork while climbing ice. It is a very long day so fatigue is an issue if you are not prepared physically. I think it is similar to Denali, but considerably shorter. And even though I have never climbed Rainier, I would guess they are similar with Rainier having the edge due to the vertical assent.

Q: Can I do it?
A: This was my first 'big mountain'. I was thoroughly exhausted upon my successful return from the summit. That being said, it is an incredible climb with awesome views and a nice mixture of terrain. If you are in decent shape, have the right attitude and climb with someone who has experience or with a Guide, you can do it!