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Orizaba
FAQ Mexico 18,880 feet 5,754 meters |
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Orizaba is a popular climb for those wanting to test themselves
at higher altitude. It is often a step before attempting higher and
more difficult climbs such as Denali or Aconcagua. I summited it
on January 26, 2008 one of my Memories are Everything: The Road Back to Mt. Everest expeditions. I am
asked many questions especially since I am not a professional climber.
So here are the most popular questions with my answers. As always,
this information is based on my experience and are my opinions so
always consult with a professional before making any serious climbing
decisions.
About OrizabaQ: Where is Orizaba?A: Orizaba is located in Mexico near the small town of Tlachichuca. It is the highest mountain in Mexico at 18,880 but the exact altitude is an ongoing debate ranging from 18,400' to 18,900'. However it is the 3rd highest mountain in North America after Denali and Mt. Logan in Canada. Most climbers fly into Mexico CIty but some use the airports at Puebla or Veracruz. Almost everyone then takes a bus or a cab to Tlachichuca. Q: When is it usually climbed? A: The climbing season is best from November through March. However, the weather can be cold and extremely windy anytime.  Q: I
read that Orizaba is an easy climb, really just a high-altitude trek.
How hard is it? A: If you are in good shape, it can be "easy" on a good weather day and on the normal route. It does stress you as you near the summit due to the altitude and anyone is susceptible to Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS). I would emphasize that you get in good shape before attempting Orizaba since it can be a long physical summit day. Q: How does Orizaba compare with Denali or Aconcagua? A: Orizaba is a quick climb - maybe a week at most with some people completing it in 3 or 4 days. There is usually only one tent camp at 15,300' above the Piedra Grande Hut at 13,972’ so you are not carrying heavy loads for days or weeks on end The summit push is a 12 hour day - not too long by big mountain standards. Q: Is an Orizaba climb dangerous? A: Orizaba is a relatively safe climb by the Jampa Glacier normal route. Usually, but not always, there are a few small crevasses and the avalanche danger is minimal. There is ice on the summit climb making the steep summit slopes slippery thus requires crampons, ice axe and experience with self arresting a fall. Three people died in a rope fall in 2000 and another four in 2007. There is no organized rescue process and no helicopters so if you get in trouble you are pretty much on your own. Sr. Reyes in Tlachichuca in trying to provide some kind of medical and/or rescue service but it was not available as of 2008 to my knowledge. Q: How many people had summited and how many people had died trying? A: There are no central statistics but local guides estimate about 2,000 climbers make a summit attempt each year with an estimated 30% success rate. It is estimated at around 60 people have died climbing Orizaba. Since it is only 60 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, Orizaba gets hits with high winds and storms. Training, Gear & CommunicationQ: How did you train for this climb?A: I mostly ran for aerobic conditioning and lifted weights. Also I climbed my local 14,000 mountains to get "real-world" miles underneath me with a 30lb pack. As a note, I did not train quite as hard for Orizaba since I had summited Aconcagua a few weeks earlier. Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb? A: Yes! Anytime you are above 8,000' you can experience problems. Orizaba is a serious high altitude mountain. Even though the normal Jamapa Glacier route is not technically difficult, the altitude takes it toll on climbers each year thus the 30% success rate. We had one member who had severe headaches from 14,000' up that stopped his summit attempt. Q: Can you prepare for the altitude? A: Not really. The common approach is to move slowly up the mountain (1000' a day maximum) spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep up until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes and especially above 8000m (26,300'). As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases, although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains less molecules of oxygen. Once exposed to high altitude the watery part of our blood (plasma) decreases to increase the density of the red blood cells thus making our blood thicker and harder for the heart to pump. The heart pumps faster and we breath harder to compensate and over time, this is corrected with more red blood cells. Red blood cells carry oxygen to our muscles. By climbing higher than the previous day then returning to a lower altitude, your body creates these red blood cells. Without sufficient oxygen our muscles get tired quickly and you eventually may suffer from cerebral edema (the brain swells) or pulmonary edema (fluid build-up in the lungs). The only cure is to get lower fast (1000' minimum) but if you are high up on the mountain this is often impossible and death is the result. You cannot do much to acclimatize while at a low altitude but there are companies that claim to help the acclimatization process through specially designed tents that simulate the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. I have no personal experience with these systems but you can find more details at the Hypoxico website. A friend used this system prior to an Aconcagua and Lhotse climb with great success. Brian Oestrike is the contact and now works for the company. They cost about $7,000 or can be rented for about $170 a week. Q: What about Diamox or other drugs to help adjust to high altitude? A: Some people take Diamox a few days before starting the ascent. There is no downside other than some annoying tingling in your fingers and more peeing (by design) but I have used it occasionally and found it helps. If you want to go the 'natural' route you can take Ginkgo Balboa starting 5 days before climbing. I have used it once and if I use drugs, I use Diamox now. According to Dr. Peter Hacket's (renowned high altitude Physician) website, sleep medication such as zolpidem (Ambien®) and eszopiclone (Lunesta®) are safe at altitude and seem to work well without affecting the breathing drive. Finally proper hydration is critical to acclimatization - urine needs to be almost clear in color. Q: What kind of equipment did you use?  A: Mostly I use the same gear
I used on Aconcagua. Lot's of layers. Since I was climbing on a glacier
in a rope team, my personal technical equipment included a long handle
ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. It is always critical
to protect my toes, fingers and face since these were most susceptible
to frost bite. I use a 3 layer system: base, warmth and wind/cold.
See my gear
page for a complete discussion and my gear list updated for 2009.
I am very pleased with all my gear but had a few standouts that I note
on my gear page.Q: Anything special in your gear for Orizaba? A: Since we took a 4WD to the Hut at 14,000' I was not worried about weight. I went in January, mid season, so it was warm. I brought my 0F degree sleeping bag and was just fine, especially with three people in a tent at High camp or in the hut. I used a layering approach of my wool long underwear and fleece mid layer. I used my Feathered Friends Down Jacket and was glad I had it on the very cold and windy summit. I used my Koflach Artic Expe' double plastic boots with two pairs of wool socks. Q: Was there web site coverage? A: I posted dispatches on this site at Orizaba Dispatches using a satellite phone. Q: How did the Sat Phones work? A: I used an Iridium model in 2008. It had mixed performances but was able to post voice dispatches. Some of the route is in deep valleys. Sat phones require line of site so it is difficult to get a strong signal that lasts. Also Iridium uses satellites that are in constant motion so as you gain a signal then lose it the signal is supposed to be transferred automatically to the next satellite. The system works great at the high camp or on the summit since you have a clear view of the sky but not in low valleys. In 2008 cell phones did not work. Expedition Basics:Q: Which routes are most popular? My 2005 and 2008 ExperiencesQ: Did you summit?A: Yes, January 26,2008 via the Jampa Glacier route. Q: Why did you choose Mountain Professionals as a guide service for 2008? A: I was climbing Everest with them later in 2008 so I wanted to build the bonds. Plus we had three other climbers who had Rainier as their only snow climb experience and I wanted a professional guide who had been to Orizaba before to lead them. Q: How did they perform? A: Excellent. We had no surprises. Dave Elmore was very competent and professional. The food and group gear was top notch. I would highly recommend them for Orizaba. Q: Which route did you take? Bottom LineOrizaba is a great climb for someone looking to see how their body performs at high altitude or the next step from a 14er. The normal routes are pretty safe but do require technical skills with ropes and crampons. The Piedra Grande Hut can be very noisy and crowded with climbers partying all night long with heavy drinking. The climb can be crowded since it is low cost, easy to get to and has a reputation as a walk-up. Even with this reputation, it is dangerous and climbers die even on the normal route. I liked Orizaba as a warm-up for higher peaks or a climb with friends. The climbing is fun and the views simply amazing! |
Q: Do
I really need a guide for Orizaba?
Q: And
the summit?
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