Happy New Year! With the holidays upon us, I wanted to send out a greeting along with an Alzheimer’s update and a look back at an exciting year in climbing. Alzheimer’s Disease – Progress but More Needed 2008 was the culmination for my Memories are Everything: The Road Back to Mount Everest project. This year long journey included 5 climbs ending with another attempt on Everest – all to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s research. While I didn’t summit Everest, we did raise over $25,000 for the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund (CAF) – and that I am more proud of continue reading
A Look Back at 2008 and Ahead
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Dec 272008
Climbing News plus New Climbing Picture Galleries
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Sep 182008
With summer winding down, I thought it was time for an update on the climbing season, my recent climbs and photography plus an exciting opportunity occurring this Sunday. Fall Himalaya Season September brings the Himalaya climbing season back into focus with expeditions to Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma and more big Hills. But the red tape now required to climb in Tibet has caused many companies to stay in Nepal on mountains such as Manaslu and Ama Dablam. Teams have been surprised by new permit requirements, staffing requirements and travel restrictions to enter Tibet. All this resulted in just a few continue reading
Climbing Videos and Alzheimer's Update
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Jul 262008
I hope you are having a wonderful summer. I am all recovered and settled in after returning from Everest in late May. I have a few updates to pass on for the website as well as some news on Alzheimer’s research and a great PBS show to air in August.
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 4
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Jun 222008
Well the Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything has come to an end. Thanks to your generosity, about $25,000 was donated to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund – well short of my $100,000 goal. When I started this journey in January 2007, I set two goals: raise money and awareness for Alzheimer’s research and return to Everest. Now that it is over, I am pleased on both counts but hoped for more donations. There is still time. Just click on this link to make your donation online. It was an incredible year. I never in my wildest dreams thought continue reading
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 3
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Jun 142008
This is the third of a four part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the Spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Part 3 covers our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!! Everest 2008: Mountain of continue reading
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 2
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Jun 072008
This is the second of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the Spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 2: Volunteer Prisioners at Base Camp note: the PDF document contains all the sections. Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 1
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Jun 012008
This is the first of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the Spring of 2008. Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 1: Rumors of Demise Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008 Recap Comming Soon.
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May 302008
I am back home and doing well. I will post a complete recap of the entire Everest 2008 experience on this site soon. Thanks for everyone’s incredible support. You will receive an email notification if you signed up when it is ready. Climb On! Alan
Audio Dispatch: Alan Headed Home
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May 232008
To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Everest 2008 Wrap-Up Climb On! Alan
Summit Update
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May 202008
Unfortunately, Alan has had to turn around at the Balcony. He was extremely tired and decided to return to Camp 4. He is obviously very disappointed and wants everyone to know that he gave it his best shot. When I spoke to him he was safely back in camp. Alan wishes to thank everyone for their support and good wishes. Cathy
Audio Dispatch from South Col/Camp 4
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May 202008
To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Click to hear the South Col Audio Dispatch Climb On! Alan
Audio Dispatch from Camp 3
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May 192008
To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Everest 2008 from camp 3 on the Lhotse Face Climb On! Alan
Summit Bid Plans
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May 162008
After a year of planning, working and dreaming, I leave for the summit of Mt. Everest on Saturday, May 17. Before I go into the details, I want to acknowledge what a gift this past year has been and how fortunate I feel to be in this position.
The sun was so bright
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May 132008
The sun was so bright in my tent that I put my sunglasses on before getting out of my sleeping bag. The rumors of a foot of snow proved false this morning. I awoke to the sound of Lama Thame Sherpa chanting his morning prayers. I was back in base camp. We completed a major milestone in climbing Everest – spending a night at camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. It was everything I remembered and more.
Lhotse Face
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May 112008
We are in our tents at 23,350′ on the Lhotse Face listening to the snow gently falling.
The Killer Cwm
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May 092008
Today we are comfortably resting at Camp 2. Everyone is in good health and spirits after a breakfast of toast and omlets.
Everest 2008 has had more
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May 072008
Everest 2008 has had more surprises than a Dick Cheney bird hunt. We have had several successful round trips through the Icefall plus several nights at Camp 1 and 2. Now are ready for the key climb to Camp 3 for a night. Then the summit! I am finding the climbing on Everest quite different than on my previous trips.
Dispatches will resume in mid-May
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Apr 152008
The Khumbu Icefall – 2,000 feet of moving ice – serves as the gateway to almost all routes on Everest’s south side. It is incredible to think that the early Swiss and British expeditions made this ascent in leather boots with nails for crampons and trees for ladders. Today we made our entry into the ice fall.
Pujas: A Mystery
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Apr 102008
The Lama said Thursday the 10th between 7:00 and 10:00 AM is best for the Puja. OK – who would argue with that?
Apr 102008
OK, left side is best. No, on my back. Right side – yes, that is it. Ugg, the crocodile roll begins. The last night in a tea house was supposed to be comfortable – a quasi mattress, walls, a roof. But three hours of sleep was the best I could muster.
Alan describes the views of Everest from the summit of Kala Patar and his feelings about the upcoming climb. To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Everest 2008 – The view from Kala Patar Climb On! Alan
A Father's Memory
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Apr 062008
The email read in part “can you see if his memorial is still there?” The trek to Base Camp takes you through 30 or more stone memorials built to honor climbers who have died on Everest. This email was from the 80 year-old Father of such a climber.
Apr 052008
Somehow snow in the trees make for a nice start to the day. We woke up Friday morning to a gentle snowfall. The trees were loaded and the ground was white. But the yak trains had already marked the trails as we left our teahouse for the next village. We continue to move up valley. Everyone is in good health and we are right on schedule.
Apr 032008
Her dark black hair was pulled back in a pony tail yet a few strand fell across her forehead as she looked up. Her four-year old eyes were as black as her hair and so large I could almost see my own reflection in them. I held out the crayons and she took them in her tiny hand. Soon her big brother and a few other children came to see what she was getting. The oldest was wearing a uniform of sorts and I asked if he was gong to school. He nodded his head and then said “fish” as continue reading
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