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Everest 2011 Coverage Begins

It is that time of year to start looking at the spring 2011 Everest season. I will cover the shenanigans as usual but with a huge twist this year. I will actually be there climbing from the south side with International Mountain Guides (IMG) so the coverage will be a bit different – mostly my personal perspective on my own climb. This will be the third of The  7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. But between now and then I will do my best to introduce the season and highlight some interesting plans. Also I will share my continue reading

 
Climbing with Nuts and Bolts: Holiday Memories

As this holiday season draws to an end, I am reminded of the new and old memories that comes with this time of year. Have you ever heard of “nuts and bolts”; also known as Party Mix? It was a holiday tradition as I grew up. It marked the official beginning of the holiday season when my mom would spend a Saturday afternoon cooking this incredible concoction. The recipe was pretty simple: Corn Chex, Rice Chex, Cheerios, pretzels, butter and Worcestershire sauce. Oh did I say butter? And her special addition were several cups of pecan halves. I remember seeing continue reading

 
Vinson Trip Report, Videos and Pictures

After our successful summit of Vinson on December 9, 2010 it has been quite busy. We took the big Ilyushin back to Punta and then most of the team caught flights out of Punta Arenas to homes across the world within 12 hours of landing. I arrived back in Colorado on Tuesday, December 14th. I am always amazed at how quick I get home. It was a 21 day total trip. First, I want to thank everyone who made a donation to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund and especially to those who completed their pledge of a penny a foot. Remember continue reading

 
Update from Punta Arenas after Vinson

Hi Everyone, just a quick update. We finally left Antarctica around midnight last night December 13th and arrived in Punta in the wee hours. We are currently enjoying chairs, tables and cooked eggs at the hotel! While we only waited a few days, it felt longer with the anticipation of getting on our way back home. But, I had mixed emotions as I left knowing what a special place Antarctica is and how fortunate I was to be a guest on the continent. The winds kept blowing both at Union Glacier and Punta Arenas creating delay after delay but a continue reading

 
Summit Success and More Patience Required

It has been a world wind the last few days. After spending 8 nights at Low Camp, we successfully summited Mt. Vinson 16,160′/4892m at 5:40 PM on December 9, 2010.

Today, we await the Ilyusion to fly from Punta Arenas to Union Glacier to ferry us off t…

 
Summit: Audio Dispatch from Mt. Vinson

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Antarctica's Mt. Vinson; the first of his 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at http://www.curealzfund.org/ where 100% of your donation goes to Alzheimer's research. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
Vinson Summit Push Starts

Just a quick dispatch to say we will start our Mt. Vinson summit climb mid morning December 9, 2010.

It should take about 12 hours round trip with the summit in the afternoon – asumming all goes well.

We made the climb to High Camp today and eveyone…

 
The Antarctica Waiting Game Begins

As I previously wrote, we knew a change was ahead for the weather and it arrived last night.

The good news is the temperature warmed to above zero but it came as a result of clouds and winds.

So we are taking another day at Low Camp. The other two t…

 
Another Day in Antarctica

Well the big wind event came and went but did not have the immediate impact that we had hoped.

Today, Tuesday December 7, is somewhat clear but the winds are still blowing on Vinson’s summit plus at High Camp. We can hear the low roar of the winds rip…

 
Audio Dispatch from Mt. Vinson: Weather Delays

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Antarctica's Mt. Vinson; the first of his 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at http://www.curealzfund.org/ where 100% of your donation goes to Alzheimer's research. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
Antarctica Isolation and Patience

For those familiar with following my climbing expeditions, you will recognize our current wait and see state. On Denali one year, I waited for 7 days for the weather to break. Today, December 5th is our 4th day of waiting.

Thus is the case for Vinson…

 
Audio Dispatch from Mt. Vinson: Waiting at Low Camp

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Antarctica’s Mt. Vinson; the first of his 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer’s awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund at http://www.curealzfund.org/ where 100% of your donation goes to Alzheimer’s research. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Working up Vinson

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Dec 022010
 
Working up Vinson

Hello from Low Camp on Mt. Vinson. We have been pretty busy since we landed last Saturday at Union Glacier.

With almost ideal weather for Antarctica, we have been in constant motion with carries to camps followed by a move the next day.

Since the su…

 
Audio Dispatch from Mt. Vinson: Update from Low Camp

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Antarctica's Mt. Vinson; the first of his 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at http://www.curealzfund.org/ where 100% of your donation goes to Alzheimer's research. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
Progress in Antarctica

We just returned from a carry from Vinson Base Camp to Low Camp. This involves carrying about half our entire gear split between sleds and packs.

It was a long 9 hour day but very rewarding. We covered about 6 miles gaining 2300′ on the hard packed ic…

 
On The Antarctica Ice

In spite of fears and rumors of delays, we left Punta Arenas about on time late Saturday afternoon.

The four flight on the huge Russian jet was comfortable albeit noisy but earplugs helped.

We landed around midnight on the 3 mile blueice runway-an am…

 
Audio Dispatch from Mt. Vinson: Welcome to Antarctica

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Antarctica's Mt. Vinson; the first of his 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund at http://www.curealzfund.org/ where 100% of your donation goes to Alzheimer's research. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
The Flight to Antartica is a Go!!

After a few hours of waiting, we were just told to get dressed in our full -15F clothes and meet in the hotel lobby in 1 hour. Our packs were loaded yesterday on the big Ill so all we have are small day packs with another couple of layers, a small book and sunglasses. It is a four hour flight so assuming (a big if) we leave around 5PM  local time we should arrive at Union Glacier around 9PM local time, still full sunlight since the sun never sets this time of year. The camp is about 5 miles from continue reading

 
The Rules of Antarctica

Great news – it looks like we will be flying out late Saturday afternoon November 27 to Union Glacier! The big Ill, as the ilyushin 76 jet is often called, made trip yesterday and today and the weather looks good for tomorrow, But, as always, this is subject to change. So with this as the base plan, today was a day of hectic last minute rushed activities. It started with a briefing at Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions (ALE), more in a moment, then packing our expedition packs to be loaded on the Ill later tonight and the rest of day continue reading

 
In Punta Arenas, next stop Antartica!

After exactly 30 hours of travel, I am now in Punta Arenas Chile. It felt like we flew down the coast of South America forever, and it was – over 12 hours of flight time. That is one long continent! All in all an uneventful trip, exactly the way to start this first of many such travels over the next year. I started in Denver by successfully avoiding forming any long term relationships with the screeners, then navigated LAX and onto my LAN Chile flight. First stop was in Lima Peru then to Santiago Chile. After a plane change, it continue reading

 
Mt. Vinson Climb Now Underway

After several years of preparation, The 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything is officially underway. After an incredible launch on November 9th where we potentially reached over 20 million people; it is time to climb. The first climb is on Antarctica’s highest, the Vinson Massif at 16,067′ or 4897 meters. This will be followed by the highest peak outside the Himalaya, Aconcagua, in January 2010 then Everest and the rest. This is a brief video with my thoughts as I finish packing today. The Antarctica weather has been tough already for 2010 with climbers, skiers and South Pole continue reading

 
Will 3G Cell Phones Replace Sat Phones on Everest?

I think the answer to “Can you hear me now?” will soon be “You are WHERE!” Well perhaps the summit of Mt. Everest this spring will be the answer from some climbers. The Swedish company Teliasonera is investing over US$100M to expand 3G cell phone coverage throughout Nepal including the Khumbu region which is the gateway to Mt. Everest. The Nepali subsidiary is Ncell. The most recent enhancement is a station at 17,000′ near Gorak Shep which is the last village a few hours walk from Everest Base Camp (17,500′). There are nine stations in the Khumbu starting at Lukla. continue reading

 
Mt Vinson Gear

As I get closer to leaving for Antarctica, it is time to layout all my gear and check, double check and check again. Overall, I will take almost the same items I used on Everest or other 8000m climbs even though Vinson is “only” about 5000m or 16,067′. It’s the Wind, Mr. Scott While temps can hit -40F, it is the wind that creates the extreme danger. Katabatic winds are the culprit. These winds come down from the high mountains sometimes at hurricane force bringing all activity to a halt, including flights in and out. Of note is the first continue reading

 
In Search of the Yeti's Hand, Lama Geshe Update

For all the allure and mystery of the Himalaya, perhaps the mystery of the Yeti stands out. And one man, Mike Allsop is doing his best to keep the mystery alive. Mike, a pilot for Air New Zealand, has visited Nepal many times and summited Everest in 2007. Similar to many visitors, he made friends and especially with Lama Geshe, more on The Lama later. In fact Mike and his wife, Wendy, named their third child Dylan Michael Dalha Allsop. While staying at the Lama’s home, he asked Lama Geshe about the Yeti and listened carefully as he was told continue reading

 
Taking Photos of the 7 Summits

As I prepare to leave for the first of my 7 Summits climb – all to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s, recording my climbs is a serious consideration. Taking photos in extreme conditions is often as challenging as the climb itself. So I asked 2010 Everest summiter, Brad Jackson, his thoughts. This Australian takes stunning photos and knows a trick or two. This is his advice to me and useful for anyone looking to take great photos on any climb. By the way, Sandy, Brad’s wife, summited along with him in 2010. Thanks Brad! ColdSnap – Some thoughts continue reading

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