I walked as far as I could today. OK, that sounded worse than I meant. I walked from my tent to the end of Everest Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall.
As I left the noise of stoves, music, movies and yak traffic; a sound etched deep in my memory came into focus. It was the low roar of the winds ripping along the high ridges of Everest’s West Shoulder. The plume off Nuptse rivaled Everest.
These high winds tell of harsh, unclimbable conditions right now. I remember laying in my sleeping bag in 2002 with winds so hard, the snow was catapulted right through the thin nylon walls. The sound today was the same as my memory recorded then.
Base Camp continues to be quiet. I saw only a few Westerners. The Sherpas were busy outside.
Some of our IMG Sherpas made a quick carry to Camp 2 today with their high altitude gear and oxygen. Kami,my personal Sherpa, told me he went from BC to C2 in 5 hours with a full load.
He reports the route is in good shape as is the Icefall. Six dedicated Sherpas,aka Icefall Doctors, establish and maintain the ladders in the Icefall.
There will be 8000m of fixed ropes this year – all high quality 10mm nylon. It will take 60 Sherpa loads to place the rope, anchors, ice screws in position. They route might be fixed to the South Col in a couple of weeks and to the summit in early May; weather dependent.
Tomorrow, Kami and I will climb to Camp 1 on Pumori for my acclimatization and also for the of the South Col route. Wednesday,we will enter the Icefall for the first time and on Friday climb to Camp 1 for two nights,then Camp 2 for two nights, before returning to Base Camp.
For as frightening as the sound of roaring wind is; it is also strangely comforting.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
7 thoughts on “The Winds of Everest”
Thinking about you here in Colorado. I hope you are feeling strong are your amazing journey to the seven highest summits.
Hey Alan,
All the best of your safe travels and grettings from Colorado
Stay safe, Climb on, Alan!
All best wishes from Heather and Facebook Dementia NewsBlog readers in UK and overseas.
Alan –
Thanks for your awesome updates. It is the first thing I look at each day when I power on my computer. Thought you would be interested in some new information about the stages Alzheimers that was highlighted on CNN today. Here is a link: http://www.cnn.com/2011/HEALTH/04/19/alzheimers.diagnosis.guidelines/index.html.
Stay safe and Climb On!
My sons, 8 and 6, and I were watching something on TV in regards to mountain climbing which led us to Mount Evererst and your Blog. We wish you the best and we will continue to follow you. I also work with Pfizer and have sold Aricept so I amvery aware of the difficulties of Alzheimers. My grandmother had it is well. Great cause and good luck!!!!
Thanks for the updates Alan , good luck with your acclimatization , stay safe and well .
Nick – (syd aus)
Alan…great news on the ice fall conditions and I am sure you will have a great hike up to Camp 1 on Pumori…great photo opportunities as you know and build a rock chorten too. Kami is a stud…5 hrs to C2 with a full load (which means over a 100 lbs.) is amazing….6 hrs to C1 with no load is a good day for anyone…remember not to worry over your times…just step by step and steady. Enjoy those “downtown” hikes to base camp. Climb on!
John
🙂
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