Everest 2012: First view from Chinese Base Camp

Everest Base Camp

Teams continue to settle into their base camps. On the south the usual routine is rise at 7:59, breakfast at 8, view lunch at 12 or 1, dinner at 6 and bed at 7!

In these early days, the main objective is to adjust to the high altitude of 17,500′. But another goal is to check everyone out on their crampon and fixed ropes techniques.

While it may seem strange to go to Everest and still be asked to “prove” yourself on some aspects of climbing technique, it is an excellent idea. There are few places on the planet that “normal” climbers use fixed ropes and climb with crampons for 6 to 12 hours a day. So a ropes course is set up right beside EBC complete with a ladder and a rope ascending a steep snow wall simulating the Lhotse Face.

One by one, under the watchful eyes of the guides and Sherpas, each member is asked to climb to the top, maybe 200′ and rappel (abseil) off the other side. For some this is their first taste of climbing in such thin air – but this is easy compared to what is ahead!

Visit Christian Kober’s site for some good EBC pictures today.

Communications

Many climbers are reporting success at EBC with their 3G phone calls using NCELL but not getting a good data signal. This was expected and the same experience from 2011. Ncell acknowledges that their tower at Gorak Shep needs upgrading to support Everest Base Camp and above for data. This is Bud Allen’s take on the situation:

Of course the biggest change is the near total cell phone coverage we have never had before. I bought a throw away cell phone from Ncell a local carrier in KTM and I can call home for 2 cents a minute. To put that in perspective it is almost $2 per minute on the sat phone. I also bought a 3G air card for my computer but so far that has been sporadic and disappointing. Still if I ever get a signal I paid for 5 Gigs for $25. I told the guys these calls are so cheap if we get board at base camp we can make prank calls. I might even call Papa Johns (one of my tenants) and order a pizza. That would really mess with their minds.

Cell phones have become ubiquitous in just three years. It is really disconcerting to see a porter carrying a humongous load by a strap across his forehead in a pair of flip flops on a dusty trail chatting on his cell phone. I fully expect there to be a rash of porters walking of cliffs while chatting up their friends or updating their Facebook status. Next thing you know there will be a new rule requiring hands free hiking.

Chinese Base Camp

I think we are in for a this year with Grant Axe Rawlinson climbing with Altitude Junkies on the north side. His dispatches are candid and full of emotion and details plus he just posted a nice video from Everest Base Base (EBC) on the north side usually referred to as Chinese Base Camp at 17,000’/5200m. This side is much more dusty and windy than the south thus can be extremely cold making it harder in many climber’s experience. But unlike the south, you get a spectacular view of Everest proper.

One point of interest in his video are the tents of the “rope fixers” as he calls the teams from the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) as they now fix all the ropes and the few ladders used on Everest’s North Col route to the summit. On the south, the commercial teams fix the ropes above the Icefall and a team of Sherpas aka the Icefall Doctors, manage the route in the Icefall. OK, now that the acronym lesson is over 🙂 please enjoy his video and visit his blog for a full explanation:

OK, that’s it for this Saturday. Next week will be critical as we will see teams start to spend the night as far as Camp 2 on the south and move to ABC on the north.

Everest 2012 is in full swing!

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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6 thoughts on “Everest 2012: First view from Chinese Base Camp

  1. I eagerly wait more for your updates than any magazine or newspaper … great work …

  2. Alan, love your updates – most appreciated – keep up the good work.
    Best regards
    Fiona (Dublin, Ireland)

  3. Really enjoying Alan’s and Axe’s blogs. The video from Axe is especially impressive considering what he must have to do to get it to us. This is the first time we are following the action as my daughter and I are planning a base camp trek next May and this is going to make it a long year’s wait! It’s really helpful to get an idea of what it is going to be like and to understand the communication issues ahead of time.

    Keep up the great work and good luck to everyone on the mountain. Mike and Mish.

  4. Following a number of expeditions who give us varying accounts of the same events, fascinating! Just can’t beat Axe and Alan Arnette’s for gut wrenching emotional detail.Wishing all the groups safe and successful climbing.Cheers Kate.

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