Phil Crampton reports his Altitude Junkies teams climbed to the North Col in spite of extreme conditions thus completing their first acclimatization rotation. They will return to base camp to regroup before heading back up to spend the nights at the North Col. Axe posted a nice dispatch where his voice reveals the demands of this climb.
The rope is now fixed to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face opening the way for teams to spend the required night at Camp 3 over 7000m or 23,500′. More on this later but this may be the singular moment when climbers look at an Everest climb very differently.
In the past there have been unacceptable levels of litter disposal problems on Mount Everest and indeed on the trail from Lukla to Base Camp. The heavy human traffic inevitably takes its toll on the resources available to deal with this problem. Wherever I am climbing/trekking and just enjoying the outdoor life, I do love the environment and I do care about leaving a better place for all future generations to enjoy as I do.
More details are being revealed involving alcohol abuse with the death of 40 year old Karsang Namgyal Sherpa at Everest Base Camp last week. He was climbing with another team but worked for Russell Brice at one point. The Himex blog tells us the story. Of note deaths related to alcohol have happened before at EBC most recently in 2009 when a young porter died from alcohol poisoning.
Himex also discusses the condition of the upped Khumbu Icefall. This area is notorious for huge ice block and serious instability as it is the point where the Khumbu glacier begins to gain speed as it flows downhill towards base camp, over 2,000′. The route this year hugs the left side of the Icefall to avoid that area but puts climbers in the fall line of hanging seracs on the West Shoulder of Everest. It is a lose-lose situation. Hopefully the seracs will stay in place for another month.
Memories are Everything