Everest 2014: Interview with Alex Staniforth – Young and Motivated

What were you doing at age 18? I know I was dreaming of cars and girls, mind not of climbing Mt. Everest.

But for Briton Alex Stanifoth, illness Everest has become his dream, not only to summit but to become the youngest Brit to summit from the South side. This spring he is off for the adventure of his young life.

Alex, from Cheshire England, was diagnosed at age 9 with a mild form of Epilepsy. He suffered from stammering, bullying, panic attacks, anxiety and a lack of confidence. Determined not have his life defined by the disease, Alex has worked hard to overcome it.

He has always been motivated. In 2012, he carried the Olympic Torch through Chester, U.K.; a nod to his ambitions and achievements already age at 16. He set a record for soloing the Three Peaks Challenge, where climbers walk the highest mountains in Scotland, England and Wales. During this event, he raised £1,700 ($2,778) for a conservation charity and Cancer Research, in memory of his grandfather and aunt.

Alex likes to say he wished his parents would just write him a check for the climb, but he knows that is not possible, and perhaps not what he would do even if it was. He has worked tirelessly to raise money from sponsors, as well as from his own work after school.

His training has taken on a life of it’s own spending 3 hours on a bike at 75% of his maximum heart rate, swimming, and climbing in the Scottish Highlands. He recently wrote on his blog:

“… I camped alone in Glen Nevis, in a field in about 40mph winds. At about 8pm I’d walked past the Youth Hostel with it’s warm glow, lit windows, central heated bedrooms and cafe ushering me in…. and kept walking. ‘Man up!’ I told myself. I’ll be camping in much worse on Camp 4 on Everest.”

He has the right attitude. Please meet Alex.

Q) Please summarize your motivation to attempt Everest?

A) Like a lot of Everest climbers- I can’t quite pinpoint why I am so infatuated with this big, beautiful mountain! It became a goal for me about 4 years ago, and ever since I’ve been on a journey to ‘live the dream’. Why settle for small ambitions? I want nothing more than to step foot on the worlds’ highest point. I can’t imagine a more rewarding, invigorating feeling. Perhaps it’s the passion, the challenge, overcoming more obstacles, pushing my limits and finding what I’m capable of. It just inspires and drives me- I can’t ignore it. Undoubtedly it’ll be a life-changing experience that will enrich my life and open opportunities. It will be well worth every painful slide up the fixed rope. Not forgetting an awesome view from the top too!

It’s also great to be able to raise money for great causes and hopefully inspire others to make change happen at the same time.

Q) Are you concerned your of Epilepsy at age 9 will have any impact on you on Everest?

A) Not at all. Fortunately, my Epilepsy was a mild form and brought under control quickly. It hasn’t affected me or any of my outdoor pursuits at all. I’ve been off medication for a long time and seizure-free. If I wasn’t, things would be very different. An epileptic seizure on Everest would be an extremely dangerous situation for me and others around me.

It was more the ‘side effects’ like the low self-confidence, speech problems, anxiety that it brought with it, which affected me back then. At one point I was too nervous to leave the house alone! I guess that’s part of what drives me now. Having turned things around, I’m striving to find my potential inside and what else I can overcome.

Q) Given your high altitude experience is somewhat limited with Baruntse and Mont Blanc, why not climb some more big peaks before attempting Everest?

I think it’s quality rather than quantity here. Not everyone has the opportunity or money to build up years of high altitude experience. I wouldn’t want to approach Everest feeling under-prepared just for the sake of it- but I honestly believe I have what it takes. I don’t think anybody understands our true capabilities more than ourselves. More big peaks would be great but I think 2014 is my opportunity to climb Everest. I spoke to other successful Everest summiteers and developed a clear perception of the preparation needed and knew that 2014 would give enough time to prepare properly whilst having the opportunity, time and commitment to get to base camp through sponsorship: Everest has become my full time job.

Realistically the only way I’ll get there without waiting a long time is sponsorship, and I’m grateful for the support. I don’t have rich parents to slip me a cheque (and wouldn’t want one, either). My circumstances could change down the line and it could end up being nothing more than a childhood dream for a long time, like so for a lot of people. And I feel I’m ready this year- so why wait, miss the chance and lose my momentum?

I guess it depends how you define ‘enough’. Baruntse, at 7,129m, became the key part of that preparation, and unfortunately a host of problems meant we didn’t get to the summit. My whole trip to the Himalayas last autumn was a painful, daunting learning lesson that made me up my game with training big time! I wasn’t prepared to give up. I took enough away from it to understand the commitment and hard work needed to summit Everest (and be proactive with it). Surely it’s true that no matter how experienced or strong you are, Everest always calls the tune. It’s always going to be a gamble and you can only give your .

Carpe Diem!

Q) You are climbing with Tim Mosedale. Why did you select Tim as your Everest guide?

Tim’s a great bloke and your interview with him recently should make it pretty clear why he’s always been my first choice. Tim played a big part in inspiring my Everest dream all those years ago on a rock climbing taster day and so it will be great to live the dream on his team. I think it’s great to be on something as challenging as this for a long time with someone you know and with an ethos you trust to keep your morale boosted. I think Tim will give me the support to maximise my chance of success and safety, and a fun trip with a small team of mates I get on with.

Q) How is your training going with only a couple of months to go?

Going great thanks Alan. Really testing myself and dedicated, although the pressure’s on. Feeling strong and confident. Have been working with a sports scientist- every session has to count with so little time, and I’m seeing big improvements already. I’m mostly training on the bike to avoid impact, with high intensity pool sessions to improve oxygen capabilities and strength training for general endurance. Most importantly, as many days walking or winter climbing in the mountains as I can fit in, although the winter weather hasn’t quite been playing ball yet! Trying to simulate Everest the I can. You can’t train for altitude but if I can’t walk for 18 hours with a heavy pack at home, I sure won’t on Everest.

Lots more mega hikes and bike rides overnight in the rain to cram in before I go but I can do it. Building my self-competence as a mountaineer and pushing my comfort zones, had quite a few sessions now where I’ve had nothing left to give and had to push on through. More to come. Mentally, I’ve just been trying to practice focus and a positive mindset during hard sessions; learning to tolerate the pain and finding a system
that works for me (your article was a great help by the way!). Again, speaking to those in the know and learning from them. I still, however,
cannot swim properly and have been upsetting the folk at the pool with my splashing…

Q) The Queen of England sent you wishes. How did that feel?

Awesome! Also glad to have support from two of my idols, Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Sir Chris Bonington. I’ve always been very grateful for my
supporters helping me realise my dream and proving what’s possible when you want something enough. Everest will always be a selfish ambition at heart, it has to be, and I don’t want to let myself down on the mountain this spring, but I definitely want to give my for all the people who’ve selflessly given their time to support me, and my charities who really need donations.

Thanks for giving me the chance to be interviewed Alan- I do tend to write a lot when I’m so passionate about something! Keep up the great work with the charity fund raising. You’re quite right when you said the fund raising is nearly as hard as the climb itself!

Well done Alex. We will all be pulling for you. You can follow Alex on his website and blog.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything