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May 312014
 

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2014 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

Latest Everest News – May 31, 2014

My summary of this tragic season http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=19748

NORTH:

  • The season is over on the North side. I am estimating about 125 summits.
  • NO deaths reported on the North side for 2014.

SOUTH:

  • The season is over on the South side. – 6 summits
  • 19 deaths on South side in 2014

General News & Notes

  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides)
334 westerners 31 teams, 300+ Sherpa
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4
S.Col
Summits
(climbers/Sherpas)
Facebook for AC Twitterfor AC Adventure Consultants (6/2)  e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global  e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (3/1)  e
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3)  e
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (5/1)  e
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking Eco Teams (17/0)  e
Altitude Junkies (7/1)  e
Exploradus Expedition (3/1)  e
Facebook for IMG Himex (17/4)  e
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (17/3)  e
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (11/5) e  H
Ascent Himalayas (9/15) e
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (9/3)  e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI (8?/2?)  e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers  e
Madison Mountaineering e
Facebook for PF Twitter for PF Peak Freaks(8/3) e
Facebook for IMG Saatori Expeditions (7/1)  e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (8/2)  e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale  e
Jing Wang 1/5
others
SOUTH TOTAL (est)  6

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

TEAMS (members/western guides)
100 Climbers
CBC
ABC
C1
N.Col
C2
C3
Summits
(climbers/Sherpas)
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking (10) e  2+/2+
Adventure Peaks e 2/1
Kari Kobler (11/3) e 8/?
Facebook for SC Malta Everest (4) e 4/?
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (5/1) e  5/?
7 Summits Club (14/4) e  17/14
others  2++/2++
NORTH TOTAL (est)  125++
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease

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17 Confirmed deaths

  1. Mingma Tenzing Sherpa Peak Freaks, died from HAPE
  2. Mingma Nuru Sherpa, , Shangrila Nepal on NBC Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  3. Dorji Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on NBC Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  4. Ang Tshiri Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  5. Nima Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition,  died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  6. Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  7. Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  8. Chhiring Ongchu Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  9. Dorjee Khatri, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  10. Dorjee Sherpa, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  11. Phur Temba Sherpa, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  12. Pasang Karma Sherpa from Juving Solukhumbu, Jagged Globe,died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  13. Asman Tamang, Himalayan Ecstasy Lhotse,  died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  14. Ankaji Sherpa, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  15. Ash Bahadur Gurung, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition,  from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall

Missing – Unknown status, presumed d

  1. Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition,  from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  2. Pem Tenji Sherpa, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall

Do you believe Mallory & Irvine summited Everest in 1924?

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  21 Responses to “Everest 2014: Team Locations”

  1.  

    Alan,
    So excited to follow your blog once again this season. Have you read the 2012 book, “Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest”? I have been listening to the audiobook version on the build up to this season. For anyone wanting to learn about the history surrounding the climb up everest, it is a fascinsting read. I was surprised to learn what an integral role indian surveyers and cartographers played in finding a route, as well as all the geopolitical events which shaped those first few attempts including the unraviling of the british empire, historical tensions between china, tibet, and nepal, and the influence of events from world war 1 in the members of those first few expeditions. Highly recommend it.

  2.  

    Hi Alan–Thank you for your Everest coverage and for your campaign vs. Alzh.

    Am I right that almost all Sherpa population is in Nepal? If so, do they travel to Tibet for expeditions from the north side? I was surprised (while watching Russell Brice’s Discovery series) to hear of a highly-regarded Sherpa guide–12 summits by 2007–who had never “seen” the south route.

    This was in the series about an Englishman who wanted to do a double-traverse. They went up from the north, but found that no lines were fixed to go down the south route. The Sherpa was very distressed.

    Thanks for any info.

    •  

      Hi James, As you probably know, the Sherpa people migrated from Tibet to Nepal. Today Sherpa who climb Everest live in Nepal and travel the world to support climbers including Pakistan, Argentina, Alaska and Tibet. The Sherpa you are referring to is Phurba Tashi who works for Russell Brice’s Himalayan Experience aka Himex. Himex only ran Everest expeditions on the North until 2009 thus Phurba had not climbed on the Nepal, south, side. As of 2013, Phurba is tied for the most summits of Everest with 21 and has the most summits for Himalayan peaks with 30. I’ve gotten to know him over the years and he is not only one of the strongest climbers I have ever seen, he is an overall great person.

      •  

        Thank you Alan for the explanation. Yes, Phurba Tashi is the man. It impressed me greatly that the English climber (David, I think) gave up the double traverse because he knew Phurba would have to let the man paying set foot on the top first. David said Phurba was so superior to him climbing that he couldn’t bear the thought. That may not be the whole story, but it’s a good story.

        Best wishes.

        P.S. Going on 66, my only wish for that amazing part of the world is to do a trek to Kala Patthar to just feel the size of Everest (and to get some photos)

        •  

          Yes, David Tait – superb individual. I think we have the whole story on his turnaround.Hope you get to go to Kala Patar – it changed my life when I did for the better.

          •  

            Thanks again, Alan. Have you written about how Kala Patthar “changed [your] life”? If so, what’s the link to the story?

  3.  

    Alan,

    So with the change of rules, can independent climbers begin their summit attempts while Sherpas are in process of fixing ropes?

    Regards,
    Asmya

    •  

      Independent climbers always had the right to climb while the Sherpas fixed the ripes. I believe they still have that right in 2014. The issue was more of respect and an “unwritten” rule that they give the Sherpas space to work.

  4.  

    Hi Alan, since a record 800 climbers are expected to attempt summiting Everest this season, are you aware of how much approximately will try it from the South Cole Route and how much from the Northeast Ridge Route?

    Best regards,

    Philippe

    •  

      Usually it is a 75/25 split between South and North so that would suggest around 200 on the North.

      •  

        Thank you Alan,

        I’m joining an expedition to the North, arriving in Katmandu on April 15th. My nightmare would be to get frozen waiting on the steps in a traffic jam (like in the first movie Beyond the Limit). What do you think is the best strategy to (try to) avoid this?

        Best regards,

        Philippe

        •  

          For me it was get out fast, climb steady and pass slower climbers to avoid the crowds. I was very fortunate to be climbing with IMG’s Kami Sherpa on his 13th Everest summit. Best of luck Philippe.

  5.  

    Can you please take a moment to explain the difference between IMG’s Classic and Hybrid teams? As an avid “sofa climber” I am not sure I can see reason for the two teams.

    Best wishes for a safe climbing season.

  6.  

    Not that I’m aware of Rinkesh but many time they keep it quiet.

    •  

      Slovak Peter Hamor together with Romanian Horia Colibasanu will attempt the following route:

      “We will try with Horia to summit Everest through a new path in the south-eastern wall, connecting to northern and north-eastern ridge, which I climbed to the summit in 1998. Considering character and profile of this path, we plan the ascent as fast, light style, without building fixed camps and, of course, without oxygen and mountain carriers. We are planning to return to Nepal on 27th May 2014.”

      http://www.peterhamor.com

  7.  

    Hi Alan, Will anybody be attempting Everest via different route in this season?

    •  

      i will want climt.everest so pls send me deatil about cost and indian group.. 29/male/INDIA… contact +919924696999…e-mail:aadi0649@gmail.com facebook: aarg patel

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