By Alan ArnetteK2 2014 Summit4 min read

K2: Summit Schedule

Camp 3 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp
Camp 2 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp July 21, 2014.

The weather has cleared and it is a perfect day here at BC. The forecast calls for summit winds under 30 mph over the next week – ideal for us. There are about 60 people going for the summit over this period including around 7 women.

This is much more than normal for K2 but 2014 is the 60th anniversary of the first summit in 1954 by Italians led by Ardito Desio, and the two climbers who reached the summit were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The team included Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah.

There is still work to do on K2 as the fixed ropes have only been set to Camp 3. Thus the early summit teams will take on an additional load of breaking trail and fixing the bottleneck above Camp 4. Our Sherpas will assist as possible.

By the way, our Sherpas have over 30 summits of Everest between them, maybe 40 … They reported tonight waist deep snow from Camp 1 higher after the recent snowfall experienced in Base Camp.

If I summit, I believe I would be the oldest American. Since the first American summit of 4 in 1978, there have only been 10 more including the likes of Viestures, Fisher, etc. One died on the descent. The last American summit was in 2007 by Chris Warner thus there have been 14 Americans summit. The last year K2 allowed a summit was 2012 with 28 on July 31 bringing the total to 334 with 83 deaths (updated numbers).

You can follow me on the summit push through the SPOT tracker on the main blog page , http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2-2014/, where I will also post audio updates, however, the audio updates seem to be unreliable possibly due to the high rock walls of K2. I will also try to send short updates via Twitter to @alan_arnette.

I will do my to make a sat call from the summit to my blog if I am so fortunate.

We leave on Tuesday, July 22 2014. This is the ideal schedule assuming no weather or health delays

  • July 22: ABC
  • July 23: Camp 1
  • July 24: Camp 2
  • July 25: Camp 3
  • July 26: Camp 4 – leave for summit anywhere for 10PM to 2AM depending on many factors (winds, other teams, ropes, etc)
  • July 27: Summit hopefully between 5am – 10am again depending on many factors. Return to Camp 2
  • July 28: return to Base Camp

By the way, July 27 will be my 58th birthday. If you want to send me a gift, a donation would be perfect to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. 🙂

Regardless of the outcome, I want to thank Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering for providing a world-class expedition in a difficult environment. I have not lost any weight or gotten sick. His attention to detail, gentle style and caring spirit has been outstanding. Thanks Garrett.

We packed our summit push food yesterday, took showers and shaved today, are reviewing our gear, even though most of it is cached at the High Camps making our pads nothing this time to C2, and getting mentally prepared.

Since the last rotation to Camp 2 at 22,000 feet,  I feel 1000% better. I know the 2nd time up is always easier I also have a hint of what is above C2 and it is hard. I am not so much worried about the ascent 🙂 🙂 but rather fatigue on the descent. That bit me on Everest so I’m thinking through strategies of how to cope with it (pace, food, oxygen, technique, etc).

All I know is that I’m going to attempt the summit of K2.

I will do my , not give up unless it is life or death and push until I cannot push anymore. I fully understand that not summiting is not the end of the world and coming home is more important than a summit, but I want this bad – real bad, very bad. I want to show the world that we can do hard things.

I want this summit. I want a cure.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

An anonymous donor has generously agreed to match all donations made to Cure Alzheimer’s Fund throughout our K2 climb, to a maximum of $25,000.

Double your impact and make a donation to end Alzheimer’s today!

Camp 3 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp
Camp 2 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp

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35 thoughts on “K2: Summit Schedule”

  3. Best of Luck Alan!

    I know you can do it. Dig deep every step of the way.

    Jonathan

  7. Best of luck Alan on the the last rotation up K2. When I met you on my first 2xpdedition on Denali in 2011, I thought what you were doing back then is amazing. Denali was a big lesson for me and I learnt alot from you. It is very inspiring that you are climbing these mountains for a great cause. I lost my Grandad to Alzheimers back in 1993. It was very hard to see as I was only 13 years old.
    Thanks for giving me the support and advice back in 2011 and more recently when I asked you about different mountains. I look forward to catching up with you again and hopefully we can climb another mountain together in the coming years.

    I know you can climb K2 and hope the fundraising will be as successful as the climb.

    All the best
    Cian

  8. You’re a great inspiration to us all….stay safe, stay strong and the very best of luck. Climb on Alan, climb on!!

  10. Alan, Your doing amazing and your posts are great as well… I’m all the way with you in sprit.. and await each post on pins and needles.. THANK YOU!! for your effort on behalf of Alzheimer’s.. and an extra THANK YOU to your anonymous match donor… that’s an incredible thing that he/she is doing.. and I’ll take up the challenge….

    I donated 500$ at the start of your journey, and promised another 500$ when you come down (that promise still holds)… but here’s an extra 500$ in honor of your birthday and mine (I’m the 28th)… and your fabulous match donor…

    God Speed my friend

    Nancy

  12. You ARE strong Alan, physically, mentally, emotionally. If she is willing that day, and the weather cooperates, you will summit. When you are there, keep warm and focus on the return. A call from the summit would be astounding, but a post from base camp after the climb will be better.

    We’re all behind you!

  13. I believe you have this one, Alan, weather permitting. Big hug! My prayers are with you, Garrett, and your fellow climbers. Fingers crossed on July 27th!

  14. I hope you get to read this Alan before the push. In honor of our 58th birthdays & in memory of our Mom’s I am going to make a donation. I wish I could do more but I understand every donation makes a difference. Your post yesterday was especially moving. Thank GOD for Kami! Please share my support & thank him for playing such an important role in achieving your goal. I think of him everyday as well. Last night after I read your post I was so moved. I took out a special gold coin that I got right after my Mom passed away. I wear the coin necklace in memory of my Mom. The image on the coin reminds me of an angel & makes me feel close & connected to her. All though I am not religious I am spiritual & I had a little chat with her last night & this morning about what you are doing. I have the coin right on my night table & it will stay out until you, Kami, & the team return safely. She & I are with you guys all the way. Thanks again for all you do!

  15. Good Luck! Thoughts and Prayers with you- 2 of my staff and partner lost to what you are climbing for- Longs Peak 40 years ago for me- hope to meet you one day and so proud! Hope to get you a lunch at Ed’s in Estes:) many years going there. Be safe! Every step is progress-what you are doing is awesome and helps inspire so many! Especially those working on cures- Lee W.

  17. As you may recall, my b’day is the day before yours, so your summit bid will be a gift for me, too. May you continue to be fully focused and committed while keeping your safety a priority. Will be awaiting all updates, especially a safe descent.

  18. I wish you an “easy” ascent, the K2 summit you want so badly, but most of all to return in good order, for the next 58…..

  20. Stay Strong And Healthy. Be Safe To You Garrett And All Others On The Mountain. Tom

  23. Good luck Alan.

    Can’t imagine what it must feel like to actually be climbing K2!

    Climb on.

  26. You are amazing and I am in awe. You will know in yourself whether to turn around before the summit if it does not feel right. So yes to want it real bad is a goal in itself and you will know the right thing to do. Bless you and keep safe.

  27. From my armchair, you don’t seem a day over 30. I am with you every step up and back. As you say, climb on!

  28. From my armchair, you’re not a day over 30! I am with you every step up and back. As you say, memories are everything and climb on!

  32. Safely up and down Alan! Your wonderful descriptions have me living this climb vicariously!! Will be with you in spirit!!

  33. Wow – keep safe Alan and good luck for a great birthday celebration at the summit :o) Thank you for taking the time to keep us all updated. Hazel x

  34. Alan, you’re leaving for your summit push on my birthday July, 22. So my birthday wish is for your spectacular summit and more importantly your safe return to BC. This will be the best birthday present of all!

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