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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 052015
 

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2015 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.  I will be climbing Lhotse thus will be reporting from Everest Base Camp this year with all the regular features plus videos and interviews directly from the mountain as it happens.

Latest Everest News – Sunday, May 3, 2015 – Nepal time

EVEREST CLOSED FROM BOTH NORTH AND NO ONE CLIMBING FROM THE SOUTH

Everest has been closed by the Chinese and practically so on the Nepal side after a 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal at 11:56 AM on Saturday April 25. The epicenter of the quake was Lamjung, which is 48 kilometers NW of Kathmandu and approximately 100 kilometers west of Everest Base Camp.

These are the latest headlines. Scroll down for the latest blog post. Alan Arnette (me) was between Camp 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm when it hit.

The Nepal Government finally admitted on 3 May 2015 what everyone knew- Everest is closed from from South side. The Icefall Doctors have given up, no strong, large teams remain at EBC to fix the route a vi C2. Finally the season on both sides is officially over. This will be the first time since 1974 that there will BE NO summit on Everest.

In further embarrassment, Nepal’s tourism department said on 4 May, 2105 that Everest open, and it is up to anyone with a permit to climb.

personally, I hope no one tries. Almost no one is at EBC but there are always individuals with their own agenda.

Prior Headlines

  • The Indian Army remains at EBC to assist in clean up. To my knowledge, there will be no further attempts from Nepal for 2015.
  • Only a  few large teams still trekking down the Khumbu
  • Many climbers have already or are scheduled to leave Kathmandu by commercial flights
  • Kathmandu airport has been closed to heavy military, relief airplanes due to runway wear/tear considerations, still open to smaller aircraft, including most commercial flights.
  • HIMEX has declared they will not attempt any Himalayan Peak. I think this is the last major team to have kept their decision open thus making it 99% that no one will attempt Everest from Nepal … but there are always individuals like last year that could try.
  • Nick Ciensk (Founder and CEO and Under Armour Senior Director of Innovation), climbing with Himex trying to climb Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and 3 other 8000m peaks in 6 months has canceled his efforts May 1, 2105 – this may be the last holdout for Everest 2015 from Nepal
  • Nepal side teams are streaming out by helicopter or by foot through the Khumbu
  • Himex adopting a wait and see approach after getting approval to fly loads (not people) into Cwm
  • At least 19 dead at EBC, over 120 injured
  • 170 climbers evacuated out of Western Cwm
  • Ice serac releases off Pumori caused by 7.9 earthquake near Kathmandu on Saturday, April 25
  • The casualty count at EBC is 19+, many, many injuries ~ 120_ as of this post – 7PM April 27
  • Most of the injuries and casualty were from wind blast off Pumori and associated impact with rocks
  • EverestER and Doctors with others teams doing amazing work
  • Alan was between C1 and C2 when earthquake hit causing major avalanches off Nuptse and Everest W Shoulder
  • Alan now at Gorak Shep starting long journey to return home, comms spotty at
  • Multiple aftershocks created uncertainty a about Khumbu Icefall causing evac from Cwm and cancellation of many team’s expeditions.
  • Over 150 helicoptered from C1 in Western Cwm today, April 27
  • No one ever in real danger at C1 and C2, plenty of food and supplies
  • 4 minute turn around time to EBC with 2 per helicopter
  • Outstanding cooperation with some exceptions
  • Many have found personal items in flattened tents
  • Many teams have left EBC and are in teahouse in Khumbu
  • Some are back in Kathmandu via helicopter
  • Almost all teams are preparing to leave EBC and stop south side attempts
  • Indian Army team of 35 to remain at EBC to assist with humanitarian efforts
  • Some small teams will stay and make a decision in a few days
  • Icefall Doctors have stopped maintaining the route due to safety, aftershock concerns – they may return – unkown
  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Nepal CLOSES Everest as Icefall Doctors says route unrepairable

Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides)
359 Climbers/350 Sherpas
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4
S.Col
Summits
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC Adventure Consultants (9/2) e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global (4/1) e
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (6/2) e  H
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (10/1) e
Asian Trekking Eco Teams e  H
Altitude Junkies e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers (2/1) e
Gurkhas (15) e
Facebook for IMG Himex e
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (19/0) e  H
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (10?/4?) e  H
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (9/2) e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI (6/2) e  H
Madison Mountaineering (12/4) e H
Facebook for IMG Mountain Gurus (2/1) e
Mountain Trip (1/1) e
Sean Wisedale (4/1) e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (8/1) e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale e
Trek 8848 e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF 360 Expeditions (1/1) e
others  e
SOUTH TOTAL (est)

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

Everest from Tibet CLOSED by CTMA fearing aftershocks

TEAMS (members/western guides)
150 Climbers/175 Sherpas
CBC
ABC
C1
N.Col
C2
C3
Summit
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking  e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (6/2)  e
Adventure Peaks (8/1)  e
British Army  e
Kari Kobler  e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (11/1)  e
7 Summits Club  e
others  e
NORTH TOTAL (est)
L=Lobuche,e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease


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  2 Responses to “Everest 2015: Team Locations”

  1.  

    Great blog and a fascinating read.

  2.  

    I am no climber but your writing is so captivating that I’m a regular visitor to your blog. Thank you for bringing the registry to my notice. I’ve made a tiny contribution by joining.

    I wanted to bring to your attention that the first link to the registry in the line “As part of my Alzheimer’s advocacy work, I am encouraging everyone to enroll in the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry.” gives a Page Not Found error.

    Good luck for your climb!

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