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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 312016
 

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2016 coverage

Raising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampRaising Prayer Flags over Everest Base Camp

My annual coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

I attempted Lhotse this spring but ended it early due to an upper respiratory infection.

A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.

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Final Everest 2016 News

  • Please see the Everest 2016 Season summary
  • Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
  • Climbing has ended from both sides
  • Since 2000, there have been 82 deaths with an average (and median) of a total of seven deaths each season combined on both sides.
  • Using the arbitrary measure of summits to deaths, from 2000 to 2013 the ratio is 1.85%, for 2016 it dropped to 0.8%.
  • In the 1990’s the median ratio was 5.6%.
  • From the early 1920 to today it is about 4%.
  • In 2016, 20 attempts with no Os from both sides, 5 succeeded
  • Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage

… read all the Everest 2016 posts.

Previous Major Headlines

  • No Lhotse summits this year
  • Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
  • Excellent, candid report by David Hamilton, Jagged Globe, on their tough summit
  • Sherpas with 10-15 summits of Everest note that the Hillary Step has much more snow than in previous years and appears more like a snow ramp than a rock climb but the rocks are unmoved by the 2015 earthquake.
  • Slovakia climbers rescued off Southwest Face (not normal route) source
  • 289 Everest permits have been issued to 32 different teams
  • Trekkers are down 40% this spring
  • Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
  • In 2015, the Ministry of Tourism reported 319 individuals with Everest permits and 96 for Lhotse. 109 climbers from 2014 used their permits in 2015.
  • NCELL phone is spotty for voice, little 3G at EBC, EverestLink is working well
  • ropes for the summit safety line were helicoptered into the Camp 1 on May 24.
  • Icefall route has only 7 ladders, usually has 20.
  • Weather continues to be quite warm, more like late May than mid April

2016 Everest Deaths: 5

  • Paresh Chandra Nath with Trekking Camp Nepal found on Balcony. source
  • Goutam Ghosh with Trekking Camp Nepal found on Balcony. source
  • Subash Pal with Trekking Camp Nepal died on Nepal side source
  • Dr Marisa (Maria) Elizabeth Strydom with Seven Summits Treks dies at South Col. source
  • Eric Arnold with Seven Summits Treks (Arnold Costner) dies at South Col. source 

2016 Lhotse Death: 1

  •  Ang Furba Sherpa, fixing ropes for Lhotse. Worked for Arun

2016 Everest North Col Only Death: 1

  • Charles MacAdams died at Chinese Base Camp after reaching his goal of the North Col source

… read all the Everest 2016 posts.


South Col Route (map)

(Note: If an operator does not provide timely updates, they are not listed)

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4 S.Col
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC Adventure Consultants (9/2) e  8/13
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global (2/1) e  3/3
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (2/2) e  3/3
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (7) e  ?
Facebook for AT Ascent Himalayas e 4/6
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Asian Trekking Eco Teams (14+) e 11/10
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Altitude Junkies (7) e  5/11
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Dreamers Destination e 3/3
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Furtenbach Adventures (6/2) e  5/6?
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI High Adventure Expeditions e  0/1
Facebook for IMG Himex (5/1) e  6/6
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (30?) e  7/11
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (10/4) e  13/15
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (5/1) e  4/5
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Madison Mountaineering (9/3) e  12/15
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Mountain Trip e 3/3
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Satori Adventures e 7/10
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (8/1) e  4/?
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Seven Summits Treks (45+) e  25/24++
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale (2/1) e  2/2
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF 360 Expeditions (1/1) e  2/2
others  57/100
SOUTH TOTAL (est)  433++

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

(Note: If an operator does not provide timely updates, they are not listed)

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
CBC
ABC
C1
N.Col
C2
C3
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Asian Trekking  ?
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (2/1) e  4/3
Adventure Peaks e  4/2
Kobler & Partner e 5/?
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (11/1) e 10/8+
 Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Satori Adventures e  6/6
Heroes Project e 4/4
Facebook for SC 7 Summits Club (22/4) e  15/12
others  55
NORTH TOTAL (est)  130++
L=Lobuche,e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

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Comments

comments

  15 Responses to “Everest 2016: Team Locations and Headlines”

  1. Hi Alan,Found your site by accident last night ,and didn’t go to bed ,found it informative interesting and a valuable research tool .
    I have a son Richard Parks on Everest now attempting a summit without O2 (with Jagged Globe ) climbing to C2 today as part of a medical research program with a strong Alzheimer’s / Dementia link. Details can be found on his web site Richard Parks Everest Project which you might find interesting
    Kind Regards Derek

  2. Have a safe climb as I go up again this year from my computer.

  3. Hi Alan, another year, another Everest season along with all the ups and downs that go with it. Even in your wildest dreams you cannot begin to imagine how much pleasure you bring to your armchair supporters. I haven’t always been an armchair supporter but my climbing was done during the years long gone when my village neighbour Ian Clough was doing his exciting climbs along with our famous Alan Hinkes.As you will know Ian was killed during his descent from Annapurna and we have a large village hall built and named after him. In those days foreign travel was difficult and very expensive hence I never got any further than Switzerland and Austria. Our own Cairngorm mountains are some of the best places around to develope your mountaineering skills and prepare for the big ones but don’t prepare you for the death zone. When I was eighteen I ( thanks to a poor guide ) nearly came to a sad end as our leader fell past me at a point when none of the three of us were belayed.According to the rules of gravity I should have followed him together with my other companion.I marvel to this day as to what saved us from certain death as being only small of frame I shouldn’t have been able to break his fall. The experience made me realise how narrow the gap between life and death really is.It also makes me more appreciative of the skills and risks you guys take every day that you set off for a climb.After the fall I spent four hours clinging to a rock face in mist and pouring rain until help appeared from above – no it was not divine help but it felt like it at the time ! I have just had a big birthday so no permit for me but I have four sporty kids, two who love climbing and I can see Everest getting nearer.I tell you the tale merely to empathise how much I appreciate the blogs and photos you publish both for enjoyment and for all the good work you do in memory of your mum and other sufferers of this cruel Alzheimer’s.I may not place a comment each time as I am sure you are busy enough with your two events to cover but you may be assured that this lass from the Yorkshire Dales is following you step by step and wishing you all a safe journey so Climb On. Cheers Kate

  4. With you again Alan! Also following Brent Bishop. Each year I look forward to your amazing coverage of my favorite adventure. Thank you always for your focus on finding a cure for Alzheimers!

  5. Will be following Alan, Can’t thank you enough for your help with my University work. You’re a great man.

  6. Hi, Alan – I look forward to your daily news re: Everest; I hope you and everyone else have a safe and successful season; regards, Roger.

  7. Hi Alan and team,
    My year 11 Outdoor and environmental studies group will be following your climb as part of an assignment they are doing in their school vce course at oberon high school, Geelong- near Bells Beach. We do basic in and outdoor climbing but the students are always fascinated by the experience of following a real summit. May this years climate be a safe one for all groups.
    yours Craig Feaver
    Head of Outdoor Ed

  8. Alan, Because my name is Kat, my friends called me Kathmandu when I was a kid—perhaps they knew something back then—-am I I destined to travel there one day? For now, I will enjoy from afar, thankful for your inspired journey on behalf of your mom, and appreciative of your efforts to fully immerse us in another world, culture…Peace and safe journey to you and all who travel with you!

  9. Thank you so much for your yearly coverage. While I have absolutely no desire to actually climb Everest, it is my dream to trek to EBC one day. I love following along watching the progress of all of the teams making their way up the mountain. Thanks for all you do. Good luck to this years climbers!

  10. Hi Alan – I don’t see Peak Freaks on the Team list. Are they climbing this year? I followed their website a few years ago, before I started following yours. Thanks – and thanks for your insightful articles about Everest, and climbing in general.

  11. Here’s hoping for a largely incident free Everest climbing season this year.