Everest 2017: Interview with Jim Davidson

Those who have followed me most likely already know Jim Davidson.  Jim is well known as a professional speaking and his own survival struggle experience on Mt Rainier in 1992 that he chronicled in the New York Times best-selling book, The Ledge. I did a review and a Q&A with Jim back in 2011 when the book came out.

We live in the same town in Colorado, climb together often and he probably saved my life this past February when a strong wind gust blew me off my feet on a Colorado mountain breaking my leg in four places. Jim was calm, efficient, knowledgable as he cared for me over the four hours it took for rescue teams to arrive.

Born in West Concord, Massachusetts, Jim started climbing as a teenager. His passion for ice and rock grew as did his skills eventually taking him to the American West where he ended up in Colorado.

I first met Jim in 2002. I was preparing for my first Everest attempt and he had just returned from Denali where he gave up his summit to help a solo climber in distress near the summit.

We went on to climb in our Colorado Rocky Mountains almost every month for the past 15 years. He is an amazing climber in his own right, but also an generous teacher and shares his knowledge with ease to anyone interested.

His life took a turn in 1992 when he and his partner Mike Price summited Rainier via the Liberty Ridge. On the descent, Jim, punched thru an invisible and soft snow bridge falling into an 80 foot crevasse and onto a tiny snow ledge. Mike, roped to Jim on an unusually hot June day on Mt. Rainer, couldn’t self arrest in the soft snow and plummeted into the crevasse suffering fatal injuries. With only a handful of ice screws, Jim eventually climbed out of the crevasse, to the amazement of the park rangers.

Most people would have stopped climbing, but Jim has continued. He climbs frequently in Colorado, has been on expeditions in Alaska, Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Mexico & Nepal, serving as the co-leader on many of them. He summited the 8000er Cho Oyu in 2009. He is a Field Ambassador for Lowa Boots.

Jim was on Everest at Camp 1 in 2015 when the earthquake devastated parts of Nepal including the Everest region. His expedition was cut short and he gave aid to the locals as he trekked out.

Today Jim is on his way to Everest Base Camp. He sent me this picture of Namche Bazar on 29 March. Jim took his rest day in Namche to complete our interview. Thanks Jim. I hope you were at the bakery enjoying hot tea and danish!

Please meet Jim Davidson:

Q: Can you remember the first time you learned about Everest and did that plant a lifelong desire to climb it?

JD: When I was about 8 years old, I saw a black and white photo of Mount Everest. It was either in National Geographic magazine or in Volume E of my parent’s blue & white bound encyclopedia set. We had a huge bookcase filled with these two valuable collections. The image of that soaring pinnacle and the heavily clothed climbers standing on its slopes planted a vision and a deep desire into me so experience high mountains.

Q: You were at C1 when the 2015 earthquake hit. It was devastating to so many and the deaths at EBC illustrated the dangers of Everest. Why go back Jim?

JD: The 2015 earthquakes and avalanches were tragic for Nepal, its citizens, and Nepal’s important tourism industry. After such a difficult time there in 2015, I was not sure that I wanted to go back. But as I joined other friends of Nepal in raising money for earthquake recovery, I heard us all saying “Visiting Nepal and spending your money there is a great way to support them, and to show them the world has not forgotten them.” Also, as a climber for 36 years, I have dreamed of being high on Everest, pushing hard for the summit. So returning to visit and try Everest again seemed logical. And, at an even deeper level, I believe that rebounding from setbacks, and trying again is a key part of life. So trying Everest again and visiting Nepal during their recovery is consistent with my commitment to resilience and tenacity.

Q: I personally know you have been training like you never have before for a climb. Can you share your 3 keys to getting in “Everest shape”? Did you set milestones for yourself to measure your progress. Do you feel you are ready?

JD: My three keys for training for Everest are:

1. Do more training than you have ever done in your life.
2. Keep increasing the difficulties in every way (duration, distance, harsh conditions, speed, etc.) and stack those difficult days one atop the other.
3. Be disciplined enough to do those two above, and be disciplined enough to also recover well enough to hit it even harder again next time.

I set numerous milestones for myself physically: I lifted more weight, hiked faster, etc. I love your term “mental toughness” training, and I had milestones there too: summiting a local peak during the coldest night of the winter, doing “deprivation days” where I went intentionally without food or water.

After training harder than for any previous expedition, I feel that I am in the best shape of my life. At age 54 I have more muscle and less fat than before any other trip, including back to when I was 24 years old on my first expedition to Argentina. I am as ready as I can be. Its time to go up on The Hill to see if it is enough.

Q: You probably own more gear than our local REI, but what items did you replace or make sure was in best condition to bring with you?

JD: I replaced critical gear like my crampons for my feet and my ascender for attaching myself to the fixed lines. I replaced worn out gear (an old down sleeping bag). And, to move a bit faster, I upgraded my pack and down coat to lose 3 critical pounds from my summit pack.

Q: Why did you choose IMG to climb with?

JD: I chose IMG for several reasons. First, as I have been on two previous trips with them (Cho Oyu in 2009 & Everest in 2015), so we already know each other. That makes the trip easier, and gives us better teamwork when the tough days come. Also, they have excellent logistics, a great supply chain, and an excellent Sherpa team, with many of the same people, year after year. In fact, when I landed in Lukla three days ago, I walked only 200 yards from the plane, and was greeted by name by four wonderful Sherpa team members that I know from previous trips. All of that builds comfort and confidence in your team and yourself, which is critical for a two month long grinding expedition.

Q: Is there one part of the Southeast ridge route that has you concerned more than others?

JD: By biggest concern is probably the narrow and exposed ridge sections above 28,000 feet. The exposure and cornices will be exhilarating, with huge drop offs on both sides. But the real issue is that any slowdowns, slow climbers, or awkward sections could cause a bottleneck, which further slows progress for everyone and puts us all at great risk. At that altitude, the margin for error gets extremely small. So if we are lucky enough to get a shot at the summit, I am hoping for smooth progress and cooperation for all of us up there.

Q: At times on climbs, it seems like everything goes wrong. How do you manage your emotions in such an event?

JD: In a moment of crisis, you need to use situational awareness to face the reality of what is happening. Then, act decisively and calmly to make things better and safer for everyone. That might be setting an anchor, applying first aid, or backing off the climb. The best way out of an emergency is to keep making the right decisions. And that requires you to stay cool, and then be willing to do whatever is necessary. Stay optimistic, and keep working to turn the adversity around.

Q: This is a tough question Jim. There are many factors outside of your control – weather, conditions, rescue – can you share with us your philosophy on how you would handle something outside of your control preventing your summit?

JD: Yes, there are indeed many things beyond our control – that’s what makes it a challenging adventure. My approach is to be as prepared as I possibly can going in. Then, to be as resilient as possible to overcome what ever encounter. And that may mean dealing with one challenge after another. I always try to climb well, with respect for the mountain and my fellow climbers. With those as my guiding principles, I intend to not quit unless I have to (weather, illness, rescue, etc.). I have learned so much from skilled partners and mentors, and I have great support from my family, friends and followers. So, I feel that in addition to my own hopes and dreams, I am climbing partially for all of them too. I intend to give this climb everything I’ve got. If I do that, then I can emotionally live with the outcome, either way.

Q: Jim, in your book “The Ledge”, you referenced a medal that was given to you by Gloria that had been blessed by the Pope and were wearing at the time of your accident on Mt Rainier. Do you wear this medal every time to you head to the mountains and will you be wearing it on your trip to Everest this year?

JD: The religious medal that my wife Gloria gave me has always been a key part of my climbing gear. It reminds me of her, and all my loved ones back home. It has been with me through many difficult situations, including losing my good friend and partner, Mike Price, and having to save myself. I bring it on all difficult climbs, and as I sit in this Nepal lodge on my way to Everest, I am wearing it.

Q: Mike Price was a close friend and you have done an admirable job in honoring his memory through your talks and writings over the past 25 years. Climbing gear has changed a lot in 25 years but is there a particular piece of gear that you are likely to take up Mount Everest that ties you back to Mike

JD: Mike’s memory and spirit accompany me on every climb I do. Along with the medal Gloria gave me, I have a small amulet bag of momentos that people have given me over the years. Among them is an Outward Bound pin that Mike had from his years of being an instructor for that wonderful program. It was given to me by Mike’s father, Don Price. So, it is special to me in many ways. The motto of Outward Bound is “To serve, to strive and not to yield”. Its how Mike lived his life. And its how I try to live too.

Q: What advice would give to someone early in their climbing career who also wants to climb Everest?

JD: If you want to climb a big mountain someday, then build a broad base of experience. Learn to climb, then learn to climb in the dark and during snowstorms. Acquire skills in rock climbing, ice climbing, first aid and avalanches. Get as strong as you can over many years, and aim to become the kind of partner that someone would want to climb with. You may summit a huge mountain some day, or you may not. But either way, you will become what you want, and you’ll learn from other determined and resilient people. That makes for a great life, Everest or not.

Q: Will you be blogging or posting to social media?

JD: Yes, I am posting photos and updates regularly. Down low in the Khumbu Valley there is good wifi and connectivity, so I have been posting daily to Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. About once per week I will write an in depth blog. As we move closer to Everest and then up onto the mountain, I will post a bit less often. But, while the frequency may drop, the amazing views and experiences will produce even more intense photos, videos and stories. More than just photos and updates, I try to provide some deeper insight into the emotional experience of struggling to reach big goals, and about dealing with challenge, change, and uncertainty. Its uncovering these lessons and sharing them that I want to share in my social media and in my work as a resilience speaker. People can follow on Facebook , Twitter , Instagram and his Blog . You can track his progress to the summit and back from his Garmin InReach

Thanks Jim! Back in 2011, I asked Jim if there was a lesson from his Rainier experience. This is what he had to say:

Yes.  In essence, the lesson we share in The Ledge is this: no matter how scary or impossible a situation may seem, humans are so inventive and resilient, that a solution can be found.  You can survive a tragedy, and later rebuild a meaningful and rewarding life.

This sums up Jim Davidson.

Climb On my friend, Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything