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Oct 062019
An avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall in 2008.

Nims confirmed his last climb of his Project Possible and the remaining teams on Everest leave due to the end of the season and serac dangers.

Everest – And Then There Were None

Madison Mountaineering and Kilian Jornet both fearing the devasting effect of being hit by the trailer sized ice serac a few thousand feet above the Khumbu Icefall when it falls, have officially abandoned their climbs. Their Nepali logistics organizer, Iswari Paudel, Managing Director at Himalayan Guides, confirmed their decision in the Himalayan Times

Garrett told me yesterday:

Yes, I think I’m going to call it off tomorrow…we’re running out of time. Yeah, it was a tough season with the late and heavy monsoon…plus the Serac. Just wasn’t in the cards for us this time.

He posted this picture

2019.10.05 The Serac circled is still hanging on up there seems to be leaning more every day but just hasn’t fallen yet. Courtesy of Madison Mountaineering

Kilian Jornet got higher on Everest than anyone else this season using his speed climbing to reduce the risk of being in the wrong place at the wrong time in the Icefall. He made these comments on his Twitter and Instagram feeds:

This last month I had been in Khumbu valley🇳🇵spending time with my family, training and climbing. Maj had discover those mountains and culture that @tinaemelie and I love so much. The weather has been very challenging with lots of snow and precipitation. I had some climbing projects in mind, depending conditions and time, at the end none of them had been possible for different reasons, but I did really enjoy those mountains despite the bad weather. Last days I could do a light attempt up to around 8300m in a variant of the polish 80’s route in Everest before turning back due to avalanche conditions. Even if it hasn’t been any summit, the experience of a very light expedition, being alone in the mountain and able to check some cool possibilities has been a very interesting and a powerful experience.
It was also very nice to share some meals and talk with other climbers @garrettmadison1 , @andrzejbargiel and team and the @polskihimalaizmzimowy guys!

Last days I could do a light attempt up to around 8300m in a variant of the polish 80’s route in Everest before turning back due to avalanche conditions.

Even if it hasn’t been any summit, the experience of a very light expedition and being alone in the mountain has been a very interesting and a powerful experience. Now back to lower mountains with plenty of ideas and motivation for the future

Impact on Everest Spring 2020

Now the question turns to the impact on the 2020 spring season if it’s still there. If in the same situation, then I can’t imagine the season moving forward. However, with winter then early spring still to come, I can’t imagine it “hanging” up there. Again, Garrett commented:

It would be interesting to see how it plays out…I could see some operators going ahead even if the Serac was still looming…

Everest Serac 2019 taken September 21, 2019, ©Andrzej Bargiel

Project Possible: Nims Confirms Shish

Nims has confirmed his Shishapangma climb on Instagram:

After dealing with a lot of admin work for my last peak, today I’m heading my home in Chitwan to see my parents to celebrate Dashain. It’s one of the biggest festivals in Nepal and I’m lucky to get the blessings from my parents before I head out to my final peak.

His Project Possible is to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months. Now he has 13 in a mere 157 days: Annapurna (April 23), Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2, Broad Peak and Cho Oyu and, Manaslu (Sept 27). He needs to complete Shish by November 23 to meet his goal of seven months.

He also announced he will be leading two expeditions in 2020: Everest & Lhotse in the spring and Broad Peak and K2 in June & July for @elitehimalayanadventures

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

  2 Responses to “Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Climbers Abandon Everest”


    Isnt the serac over the bottleneck on K2 much larger than this serac in the Khumbu?
    And that didnt prevent climbers from summiting last August, so I dont see the point about all the noise Made for the Khumbu serac.


      It was snow in the Bottleneck that presenting avalanche danger last summer on K2, not the serac. Yes, the K2 serac is much wider and taller. There are seracs all over the west face of Everest and over on Nuptse threatening the Khumbu Iceball. The issue this autumn was a chuck had calved off but not yet fallen and could have at any moment.

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