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Pictures in the Moshi Market - maybe

Stepping off the jet at Kilimanjaro airport, it was dark. The night air was warm, a bit humid but not too much. We moved like a long eel towards the immigration officers. They checked our documents, took modern scans of our finger prints, for what reason I am still unclear, and most importantly took our valuable US crisp dollar bills. The usual anxiety of lost luggage went away as one by one each duffle or suitcase appeared on the carousel. Met by our IMG guide Eben, the team gathered outside the simple air terminal, exchanging names knowing we would forget continue reading

 
The Edges of Kilimanjaro

As I flew from Amsterdam to the Kilimanjaro airport, I looked out my window of the KLM 777 marveling at the stark contrast of the brown islands against the deep blue of the Aegean Sea. Edges. My (almost) next to the last climb of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything had begun. I had met two of my teammates, Jeannie and Joe, at Schiphol as they journeyed from the US, now we were on the 8 hour flight to central Africa. I have now seen “edges” on almost all the continents. Sometimes easy transitions from one level continue reading

 
Kilimanjaro Gear

I leave for Kilimanjaro in a few days and have all my gear packed. My previous descriptions and videos of the gear I am using for the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s has been popular so I thought I would do one for this climb. Believe it or not, I have added a couple of new items that I needed for the unique nature of a Kili climb but otherwise will use most of the same gear I have on the previous 5 climbs. There is one huge exception – no crampons, ice axe, harness or other technical gear. It continue reading

 
Kilimanjaro: Mountain of Memories

Kilimanjaro: The roof of Africa; 19,340 feet; one of the world’s highest volcanoes and my 6th climb in the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. I leave for Africa in a few days. While this climb is considered a “walk-up” in that you climb via well worn trails alongside local porters who carry all your main gear; it is serious high altitude and not to be underestimated. Thus I have continued my training after returning from my last climb; the summit of Europe’s highest Elbrus at 18513′ a few weeks ago. I find Kilimanjaro intriguing not only for continue reading

 
Elbrus 2011 Final Trip Report

Climbing the highest peak in Europe was more of a cultural experience than a mountaineering accomplishment. That said, the climbing on summit day was challenging and rewarding and I found Russia a great place to visit. In my normal manner for all my climbs I have added a few pages to my site to document the expedition: Elbrus 2011 Trip Report with videos Elbrus FAQ Elbrus Photo Gallery In general, it was a good trip and I am very pleased with my personal performance on this climb. I had always planned to climb Elbrus from the traditional south side and continue reading

 
Elbrus Summit Recap

Well, I am back in Southern Russia at my hotel after a very fast and successful summit of Mt. Elbrus at 18,583 feet. As usual I will do a complete trip report but here are the highlights. We arrived at the Elbrus Base Camp on Sunday, August 7 and took another few days to reach the High Camp at 12,000′. The weather was good throughout the week so I was a bit worried when we took a rest day after an acclimatization climb to 14,500′. After eight days at 17,200′ on Denali only a couple of weeks ago, I was continue reading

 
Summit: Audio Dispatch from Mt. Elbrus

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Russia's Mt. Elbrus; the fifth of Alan's 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
Elbrus Summit Bid Tonight

We leave for the summit of Elbrus tonight after midnight. I will turn the SPOT on when we leave High Camp.The last two days have been spent acclimitizating through climbing to 14,500′ to Lenz Rocks on the East part of Elbrus and a rest day today (Wedne…

 
Touching the Elbrus Snow

Climbing Russia’s Mt. Elbrus is as much of a cultural experience as it is mountaineering. Today we carried our summit gear from Base Camp at 8200′ to the edge of the glaciers on Elbrus’ North side at 12,000′. Tomorrow we move there and to the High Camp…

 
Audio Dispatch from Mt. Elbrus

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Russia's Mt. Elbrus; the fifth of Alan's 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
A Russian Smile

The 747 hit the Frankfurt runway with the finesse of a fighter jet landing on an aircraft carrier in a hurricane. Wow, I thought, if this is Lufthansa I wonder what my intra-Russian flights will be like? And with that I was part way to Mt. Elbrus and my hotel in the Southern Russia town of Kislovodsk. For some of these 7 Summits, it feels like just getting there is an adventure. For Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, I flew a Russian cargo plane crammed between the cargo and a stand-in for Sean Connery at the controls. For Carstensz Pyramid in continue reading

 
Everest 2011: A letter from my Congressman and more

I was surprised to receive this personal letter today from my US Senator, Mark Udall. I didn’t know a lot about his climbing experience but the personal nature of this note led me to find a kindred spirit with my Senator. While my attention was immediately directed to his climbing comment, it was his acknowledgement of the Alzheimer’s work that brought a smile. Senator Udall supported the National Alzheimer’s Project Act recently signed into law by President Obama. He worked for Colorado Outward Bound School as a course director and educator from 1975-85 and as the organization’s executive director from continue reading

 
Highest in Europe: Here I Come!

I am off to climb the highest peak in Europe. A quiz to see if you can name which mountain most often noted as Europe’s highest but are mistaken according to cartographers and politicians. Mont Blanc at 15,782 feet is the highest peak in Western Europe thus leaving Elbrus, 18,510 feet/5,642m in Southern Russia nestled between the Black and Caspian Seas the highest is all of Europe. So why the controversy? Well Russia is actually in both Europe and Asia. Western Russia, including St. Petersburg and Moscow, are claimed by Europe while the sparsely populated areas to the east are continue reading

 
Denali 2011: Faliure or Non Summit?

When I started to leave the 17,200 High Camp on Denali without standing on the summit, I wondered; how would people consider this effort. One person characterized it this way: “Alan, sorry to hear of the failure, but safety first. Safe travels home.” I understand. After spending eight days watching the swirling hurricane-force winds on the summit; it was safety first. We never got an opportunity to try to summit. It would have been suicide at best most of the time. Denali, well known for some of the harshest weather for climbers, had shown her stuff. Of all my 7 continue reading

 
Audio Dispatch from Denali 2011 - 10th phonecast

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Audio Dispatch from Denali 2011 - 9th phonecast

Listen to my latest phonecast

 
Denali Playing Tough

Throughout the early hoursof Thursday morning, there was no wind and clear skies. However as I checked the skies at 7:00AM, the seemingly ever-present lenticular cloud once again hovered over Mt. McKinley suggesting high winds and dangerous windchills…

 
The Ups and Downs of Denali

The weather changed with the certainty of a Lindsey Lohane probation violation. Lying in our tent like sardines, uncomfortable both physically and mentally; the sudden quietness brought on by the lack of driving snow and wind caused everyone at High C…

 
Waiting on the Weather

Climbing big mountains is just like life – you don’t always get ask for – or is that a song lyric?In any case, I write this from High Camp at 17,200′ on Denali. Along with David, Byron and Martin, we are in various forms of consciousness listening to t…

 
Audio Dispatch from Denali 2011 - 8th phonecast

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Audio Dispatch from Denali 2011 - 7th phonecast

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Ready  to Move Higher on Denali

Today, Friday, July 9th is a rest day at the 14 camp. We are all a bit nervous as the clouds have replaced the perfectly clear blue skies we have enjoyed the last few days. Hopefully we leave for High Camp at 17,200′ early tomorrow, Saturday morning. W…

 
Audio Dispatch from Denali 2011 - 6th phonecast

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Denali 14K Camp: Another World

If you have been following us on the SPOT Tracker, you know we arrived at the 14,000′ Camp on Denali this afternoon, July 5th. This camp is a major milestone on a West Buttress expedition. The day had a little of everything.We awoke at 4:00 AM to the f…

 
Snow Day at Camp 2

Well our best laid plans are always subject to Mother Nature’s master plan. As we finished dinner last night the snow was steady. It continued throughout the night. Around 4 AM, we heard Ben announcing to stay put until 8 and we would decide what to do…

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