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Gerry Roach Interview: Update to the Colorado 14er Guide Book

If you have ever climbed a Colorado 14,000 foot mountain the odds are you used a guide book or perhaps an internet site to research your climb. Well, it is also highly likely you used some of Gerry Roach’s famous research. His famous guide book simply called Colorado’s Fourteeners: from hikes to climbs is the premier guide book for all things 14ers describing 250 routes in sufficient detail for most people to make the summit. Now he just released the 3rd edition of his famous book and I wanted to ask him about it. In total, he has authored 15 continue reading

 
A Tough Summer in the Western High Country

Any article about death on a mountain is difficult to write. I am concerned about getting the facts wrong, perhaps offending family and friends. However, it serves a purpose of exploring the reason for incident and reminding everyone that mountains can be deadly. The best source year after year is the American Alpine Club’s – Accidents in North American Mountaineering published annually to members. This article is a partial overview of the tragic events thus far in 2010. Many people associate death in the mountains with the well publicized events on the big climbs like Everest or K2. But each continue reading

 
Finishing the 14ers; What’s Next?

For not being a goal, the satisfaction I feel for just completing climbing all 54 Colorado mountains over 14,000′ is deep. As I posted last week, I went to southwest Colorado’s San Juan range to climb Windom Peak (14082′), Sunlight Peak (14059′), Mt. Eolus (14083′) and North Eolus (14039′). I was fortunate to have my regular partners, Patrick and Robert along and some new friends, Anne and Kevin plus John Little from Houston, Texas. There are new trip reports for all the climbs on my main site. Mt. Eolus and North Eolus Windom Peak Sunlight Peak The plan was to continue reading

 
The Final 14ers

Sometimes a goal is not a goal until you near the end. That is my story for climbing all of Colorado’s Mountains over 14,000 feet. My first 14er was Longs Peak in 1992, then a few more in 2002. I got serious after meeting Patrick Vall and Robert LeClair. They both wanted to climb all the 14ers and I needed the training for my Himalayan climbs throughout the decade. Thus one by one, we started climbing them all. This weekend I will travel to an area named the Chicago Basin and climb three of the ranked 14ers thus competing my continue reading

Jul 302010
 
A Summer of Colorado Traverses

Colorado has 4 so-called Great Traverses: the Maroon Bells, Little Bear to Blanca, Crestone Needle to Peak and the ridge connecting El Diente to Mt. Wilson. With the Bells completed a few years ago, this summer, I added two more to my list. Traverses are special climbs in that you usually climb to the summit of one peak and take a more or less direct route across a connecting ridge to another high peak. In these cases all the peaks are above 14,000′ or a 14er in Colorado parlance. They usually involved more difficult climbing moving into the high class continue reading

A Windy Meeker

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Jul 132010
 
A Windy Meeker

Mt. Meeker is the poor cousin of mighty Longs Peak. Just missing out being a 14ers by a mere 9 feet, Meeker is the mountain you see from Denver, not Longs At 13,911′ is is one of the highest 13ers but is often passed by with climbers going for Longs, the highest in Rocky Mountain National Park, at 14,256′. I know this since I have passed it by while on my way to Longs on multiple occasions. So on this mid July day in 2010, I set out to pay homage to this peak, little did I know she would not make this a trivial “tag”.

 
Finding Clark's Arrow on Longs Peak

Sometimes it is the little thing. I have climbed on Longs Peak perhaps 70 times in all kinds of weather by multiple routes. But one small goal has eluded me for years. You see, way back in the early days of Rocky Mountain National Park, an enterprising ranger named John Clark decided to help out his fellow climbers by painting an arrow directing climbers to the saddle between Longs Peak and Mt Meeker. The area is a rock filled gully and can be very confusing so some type of semi-permanent sign would have been useful. Of course today that would be illegal and considered graffiti!

Jun 282010
 
Colorado 14ers: Castle and Conundrum

Late June 2010, I teamed up with my regular 14er partners, Patrick and Robert to complete some unfinished business. The 14er combination of Castle, 14265′, and Conundrum, 14060′, stand outside of Aspen at the end of a long mining dirt road. I had completed both in 2009, (see the reports for last year’s Castle and Condundrum) while Patrick had climbed Castle with me and Robert had been thwarted twice for both peaks. So as a team, we took on the pair to check them both off once and for all. The early summer of 2010 had been hot with periods continue reading

Jun 112010
 
Paying To Climb Colorado 14ers

There are 54 ‘official’ Colorado 14ers mountains rising above 14,000 feet and at least 300′ from an adjacent saddle. An estimated 500,000 people climb on 53 of the 14ers each year without fees or permits, today. Now, the U.S. Forest Service (NFS) is investigating charging for other 14ers starting with four highly popular 14ers in Southern Colorado. The primary issue land managers are struggling with is that many of the 14ers are being climbed so much that the trails are getting overused, scattered with trash, toilet paper and poop and all the other problems that comes with a lot of use.

May 312010
 
Getting the Little Bear - Colorado 14er

Little Bear is known throughout Colorado as one tough class 4 climb. In the summer, people have been injured and even killed from rock fall. In the winter it is a tough and steep snow climb. I know, I have done both but only succeeded once. This late May, I made it to the summit on a perfect day. The snow conditions were right between too much and too little. With mild temps, blue skies and perfect snow, I left my camp at 4:00Am and 3 hours later stood on top.

 
Summer Climbing Plans

It is spring time in Colorado as evidence by deep snowfall that melts away the next day. So it is time to finalize my plans for summer climbs. My priority is to compete the Colorado 14ers. But also, I want to grab a few California 14ers and perhaps something big in the Fall. I have climbed 48 of the 54 Colorado 14ers. But of course the list is actually 58 so I need to climb 58! Confused? Well here is the explanation from my 14ers page

 
Breaking Trail at 14K on Longs Peak

[singlepic id=5 w=320 h=240 float=left]Climbing Colorado 14ers in the winter is always a crap shoot. If the winds don’t get you, then the deep snow will. Recently I met up with a group assembled from the web community 14ers.com to climb the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak at 14,256′. The plan was to meet up with another climber visiting from out of state. He was motivated to claim a winter summit of Longs. However, when we met up with him, he was suffering from mild AMS and smartly declined to go up. So our team of continue reading

My Favorite Colorado 14er

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Mar 112010
 
My Favorite Colorado 14er

[singlepic id=4 w=320 h=240 float=left]There are 58 Colorado peaks over 14,000′, so to pick one as your favorite is tough. I have climbed 51 of them so this may be a tad premature but here I go anyway. For years, I told anyone who asked that Longs Peak was my favorite. It had everything a mountain could offer: a variety of routes from easy to impossible, unpredictable weather, and amazing views. Longs will always be close to the top of my list. But in the late summer of 2009, another climb took the top spot – Capital Peak in the continue reading

 
A Colorado Weekend: Ice and 14ers

Over President’s day weekend in mid February 2010, I joined some friends for some ice climbing in world famous Ouray Ice Park. It was a great time with perfect weather and nice ice. Ouray is famous for man-made ice and the annual Ice Festival held every January. Ouray is a small mountain town in Southwest Colorado. A longtime favorite summer destination, it is nestled in the high Rocky Mountains. Ouray, once a mining town, might have disappeared or slowly dwindled away if an accident had not occurred. A leak in the fresh water pipe running along the top of a continue reading

 
Pine Beetles Love Rush Limbaugh

If you have ever driven along Colorado’s Interstate 70 from Denver to Vail, you might have noticed all the dead pine trees along the highway. Some think it is due to pollution spewed by cars but is actually nature at work. Mountain pine beetles have killed an estimated 3.6 million acres of trees in Colorado alone. Their favorite food is the lodgepole pine tree but they also enjoy the ponderosa, Scotch and limber pine. The beetles kill the trees by creating fungus under the bark, which slows growth and eventually kills it. The root issue is that the beetles are continue reading

 
Ptarmigans - Nature's Perfect Camouflage

I love to climb or more specifically to be out in nature. This past week, I took a long climb to almost 13,000′ on Longs Peak in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. It was a rare winter day with mild temps in the high teens and virtually no wind – unheard of for Longs in January. The scenery of the snow covered Continental Divide was stunning as was the lightly peppered Diamond on Longs’ East Face. I was completely alone for the majority of the day. I had started just before sunrise and enjoyed watching the sun light up the continue reading

 
Using the New SPOT GPS Messenger

I received an early present from my Christmas wish list; the latest GPS Personal locator beacon from SPOT otherwise known as the SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger. I took it out for a test drive on an easy hike to Bison Peak in the Lost Creek Wilderness of central Colorado. The SPOT performed well. I wanted SPOT primarily to keep my wife informed of where I was when I was out of cell phone range, which happens often with my iPhone/ATT in the Colorado back country. Also, I thought it would be nice to see my tracks when I got back continue reading

 
Longs Peak Diamond Climb - video

If you have explored my site, you know that Longs Peak is one of my favorite climbs. In under two hours, I can be on the trail at 9400′ and reach the summit at 14,256′ in a few hours on a good day. It has all types of routes from simple walkups to world-class technical trad climbing.  And it offers the best and worst in mountaineering weather all year-round thus making for excellent training for Denali, Aconcagua or serious Himalayan climbs. Of all my pages on 14ers, I have more about Longs than any other since have climbed on it continue reading

 
What's in Your Pack? 14ers

Ever look at another climber’s pack and wonder? Come on admit it, I know you do! Packs come in all sizes and shapes. Some are lean and mean while others are fat and dumpy. However most of this is not due to the pack; it is what’s inside that counts. This is the first in the series “What’s in Your Pack?” where I will look at gear from simple day hikes to overnight trips to treks to Everest Base Camp then climbs to 8000m and above. But first, lets take a look at packing for a simple day climb of continue reading

A Special 14er Climb

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Sep 242009
 

I will be climbing an old friend this week – Mt. Belford and the neighbor, Mt. Oxford. They are in the Sawatch range in Central Colorado and I climbed them both in 2005. These are not particularly difficult climbs but this will be special for an entirely different reason.

 

I just returned from a 4 day climb of three 14ers in the Sangre de Cristo range in southern Colorado. I summited two of the three but turned back on Little Bear due to extreme veriglass on the summit gully. You can read all about it in the trip report. Turning back from any climb – whether a 14er or Everest is a complex decision. I have done both. For me, the decision becomes a fact based decision, not an emotional one. On Everest, it was a factor of my climbing speed or declining health or weather conditions. On Little continue reading

Sep 162009
 

It has been a good summer for climbing my beloved 14ers – I have 8 new climbs with a few repeats. My goal is to climb the 58 peaks above 14,000′ however more importantly I am working on various aspects of my climbing skills for the upcoming 7 Summits journey to raise $1M for Alzheimer’s research. This week, I will be traveling to southern Colorado to climb 3 peaks in the Sangre de Cristo Range: Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point and Little Bear Peak. My regular partners, Patrick and Robert will join me for two of these. These are not difficult continue reading

 

A full trip report is now on the site but here is a teaser for now. I summited Capital around 11:00 AM on September 10, 2009. I was solo all the way and then joined by father, son team Scott and John Scott on the summit. John took this video of my return across the Knife Edge on the summit ridge. I found Capital to be one of the top 3 toughest Colorado 14ers. Please read the full trip report for more details on a great climb. Climb On! Alan

Sep 082009
 
Another try at Capital Peak

After last week’s mixed results – summited Snowmass but tweaked a knee stopping my bid on Capital; I will try again on Thursday. This time I am watching the weather carefully. September in the Colorado mountains is a dicey time. It can be sunny and warm one minute and harshly cold with snow the next. A cold front is passing through today (Tuesday) and the lows are around freezing at 12,000′. I expect some icy conditions at 14,000 near the summit. Capital is known as one fo the more difficult 14ers since the standard route involves traversing a knife-edge ridge continue reading

Sep 052009
 

My grand plan was to knock off a quick climb of Snowmass Mountain then backpack later that day to climb Capital Peak, one of the more difficult Colorado 14ers. Well I accomplished half my goal. You can read about my climb of the 14, 092 Colorado mountain on my trip report. During that climb, my 53 year-old knees kind of said “enough”. That is not too much of a surprise since it happened half way down a 2,000 gully that was covered with small pebbles or scree – kind of like ice without the cold. You see back in 1979, continue reading

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