Everest News « Categories « The Blog on alanarnette.com

Dramatic Increase for Everest North Permits

Comments Off

Nov 102011

Dramatic Increase for Everest North Permits

In a dramatic increase, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) has notified operators that they will increase the permit costs for climbers, Sherpa and cooks. The net impact is that a permit to climb Everest from the north is now more expensive than from the south for most climbers. This according to Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies. The north side of Everest has long been the ‘bargain’ side primarily based on a lower cost permit from the Chinese then Nepal’s permit of $10,000 per climber. This is turn had attracted the lowest budget operators, and independent climbers. But this had a continue reading

Update: Lama Geshe back in Pangaboche

5 Responses »

Mar 052011

I am very pleased to pass on this note from Lama Geshe’s son, Jigme, on the condition of his father, Lama Geshe. As I have previously reported, Lama Geshe suffered a stroke around September 20, 2010. He was flown to Kathmandu, paralyzed and in poor condition. He had surgery and spent many months recovering in Kathmandu. If you do not know Lama Geshe, he lives in the Nepalese village of Pangboche with his wife and family. He is the highest ranking Buddhist Lama in the area. Almost every climber to the Everest region visits him to receive a blessing before continue reading

A Visual Tour of Everest

4 Responses »

Mar 032011

I often write about Everest but it takes a lot of words and sometimes, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. So here are two “pictures” you might find interesting. The first is a short animation I created a while back showing the typical Everest south side expedition schedule. There is no sound, just watch the moving ball! The “ZZZZ’s” indicate nights climbers sleep at each camp and the rest is pretty self explanatory. But for those new to Everest, the reason for so many trips up and down the mountain is to condition the body to continue reading

The Four Phases Of Everest

6 Responses »

Mar 012011

When I prepare for any big climb, I like to break it into parts and visualize each section. I try to consider what kind of weather I will experience – best and worst case. I think about my mental state and what I will experience – best and worst case. I consider things out of my control and how I will will deal with them. I believe climbing the big mountains demands three key principles: flexibility, patience and respect. For Everest, I look at it in four phases: the trek in, base camp life, acclimatization climbs and the summit bid. continue reading

Decisions on Everest

5 Responses »

Feb 232011

Climbing Everest is a thousand tiny decisions and one major one. It all starts with the day you decide to climb – any mountain. As I always say, climbing is a sport you either immediately love or well, let’s just say that some people never want to sleep in a tent again after that first night! I was in the love at first climb, so to speak. It was on Mont Blanc, I was standing on the summit and my feelings of accomplishment and satisfaction were enough to fuel a major climb almost every year for the next 18. Standing continue reading

Comparing the Routes of Everest

13 Responses »

Feb 172011

Climbers are packing their duffels, continuing their training and practicing their goodbyes. They leave for Kathmandu in about a month. By now they have researched and selected their route. Some on the north, others on the south. There are over 18 named routes on Everest and a couple that are still unclimbed. The vast majority of climbers use two routes: South Col or the Northeast Ridge Standard aka North Col route. I will be climbing the South Col route on International Mountain Guide’s Classic program. They provide total logistics support plus a personal climbing Sherpa who I will meet early continue reading

Everest 2011 Approaches

6 Responses »

Feb 152011

I know I am busy with my preparations for Everest in a little over a month and so are many others. There is a never ending series of tasks from planning to packing and of course training. I am pleased that I am making contact with many of my future teammates and fellow climbers. It looks to be a great season. A few items of interest I thought I would highlight. EverestER Anyone who has climbed on Everest’s Nepal (South) side in the past decade knows that EverestER is THE place when health issues arise. Dr. Luanne Freer runs it continue reading

Will 3G Cell Phones Replace Sat Phones on Everest?

1 Response »

Nov 182010

I think the answer to “Can you hear me now?” will soon be “You are WHERE!” Well perhaps the summit of Mt. Everest this spring will be the answer from some climbers. The Swedish company Teliasonera is investing over US$100M to expand 3G cell phone coverage throughout Nepal including the Khumbu region which is the gateway to Mt. Everest. The Nepali subsidiary is Ncell. The most recent enhancement is a station at 17,000′ near Gorak Shep which is the last village a few hours walk from Everest Base Camp (17,500′). There are nine stations in the Khumbu starting at Lukla. continue reading

In Search of the Yeti’s Hand, Lama Geshe Update

4 Responses »

Nov 162010

In Search of the Yeti's Hand, Lama Geshe Update

For all the allure and mystery of the Himalaya, perhaps the mystery of the Yeti stands out. And one man, Mike Allsop is doing his best to keep the mystery alive. Mike, a pilot for Air New Zealand, has visited Nepal many times and summited Everest in 2007. Similar to many visitors, he made friends and especially with Lama Geshe, more on The Lama later. In fact Mike and his wife, Wendy, named their third child Dylan Michael Dalha Allsop. While staying at the Lama’s home, he asked Lama Geshe about the Yeti and listened carefully as he was told continue reading

9 Year-Old training for Everest 2011

3 Responses »

Nov 052010

We all knew it was coming. As previously reported, the summit by 13 year-old Jordan Romero from the Tibet side of Everest created shock waves throughout the mountaineering community … and authorities. Joining Nepal’s minimum age limit (16 from Nepal) to climb Everest, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) who manages mountaineering in Tibet, was quoted immediately after Romero’s summit in a report … climbers applying for a permit to attempt the 8848m peak – and any other Himalayan ranges from the north or Tibet — would have to be at least 18. The Chinese authorities have imposed an upper continue reading

Updated; 19 Time Everest Summiter, Chhewang Nima Sherpa, Feared Lost in Avalanche

1 Response »

Oct 242010

Updated; 19 Time Everest Summiter, Chhewang Nima Sherpa, Feared Lost in Avalanche

Update: According to Jeeban Ghimire, director of Sherpa Shangri-La Treks, which organized the expedition, the search has been called off. After a six hour aerial survey, the search team deemed it unlikely he would have survived given the rough icy terrain where the avalanche occurred. Various reports say that Nima was fixing ropes for another team 300 feet from the summit. His own team of six British climbers, one American and several Sherpas were unhurt. American guide Melissa Arnot was part of the team. Nima was hoping to pass Everest legend Apa Sherpa’s 20 Everest summits in 2011. Nima leaves continue reading

Update 2: Lama Geshe Suffers a Stroke: A Call to Climbers for Help

9 Responses »

Sep 292010

If you have ever climbed in the Himalaya, you probably are as shocked by this headline as I was to receive the news. Lama Geshe suffered a stroke around September 20, 2010. He was flown to Kathmandu, paralyzed and in poor condition. He has since undergone an initial surgery and seems to have improved some. He is now responsive and resting.

Fall Himalayan Climbs: Everest and More

8 Responses »

Aug 302010

It is that time of year for climbing to resume on the Himalayan 8000m peaks. Fall brings attention to the ‘other’ 8000m mountains near Everest: Makalu, Manaslu, Pumori and Ama Dablam in Nepal and Cho Oyu and Shishapangma in Tibet. And of course, Everest. Fall climbing in Nepal and Tibet is dramatically different than in the Spring. The season starts soon after the summer monsoons let up leaving the area clean, clear and crisp. It is an absolutely beautiful season for trekkers and some climbers. But each day is shorter and slightly colder – just the opposite from the spring. continue reading

Fall Himalayan Update from Ang Tshering

Comments Off

Aug 262010

Ang Tshering Sherpa is the Chairman and Founder of Asian Trekking, one of the oldest expedition companies in Nepal. He is perhaps the most influential Nepali in mountaineering. He sends a few letters out during the year with updates on the Himalayan climbing scene. His most recent letter has a few interesting tidbits sadly including the recent crash of an aircraft with trekkers heading to Luka for a trek to Everest Base Camp. Dear Mr. Alan Arnette, Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal. It is with a very heavy heart that I’m writing to you. As many of you may continue reading

The 3rd Pole: Everest this Fall for Eric Larsen

2 Responses »

Aug 092010

Eric Larsen is not your average Polar explorer. Yes he has already made difficult and successful trips to both poles, yet he is not satisfied. Next up is what he calls the 3rd Pole, Mt. Everest. What is a lifetime goal for some, is a year-long one for Eric. I recently caught up with him at the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake to talk about his Fall, 2010 Everest expedition. What is driving this 39 year-old man from Minnesota? Eric has a long fascination of Polar travel and was seeing his beloved terrain slowly slip away. So he felt continue reading

Everest Facts for KiDs

Comments Off

Jul 112010

Do you know what kind of rock makes up Mt. Everest, when was the first north side summit or how much rope is used to set the fixed rope on the south side each season? Well, Everest is full of interesting history, details and trivia. As part of my Everest for KiDs slide show, have added a page with a few facts that kids, and adults, may find interesting. If you know others I should add send me an email.

Final Everest 2010 Stats: 513 Summits

2 Responses »

Jun 182010

There were 513 total summits on both sides of Everest in the spring 2010 season. This according to Asian Trekking’s Ang Tshering Sherpas regular news letter. He said there were 157 foreigners who summited along with 190 Sherpas on the south and an estimated 165 on the north side. He further quotes the Grand Dame of all Everest statics, Ms. Elizabeth Hawley that 5070 people have now summited Everest since 1953 and about 3431 of those are single summits with the rest being multiple summits.

China Sets Everest Age Limits

Comments Off

Jun 102010

With the controversial summit from the Tibet side by 13 year old Jordan Romero, China seems to feel enough is enough. Starting this fall, 2010, climbers must be between 18 and 60 to be issued a permit. This was announced by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) who manages mountaineering in Tibet. In a report they said

Devloping an Everest Climbing Plan

Comments Off

May 062010

With the Everest season in full swing, many people ask what it takes to climb the highest mountain in the world.

It comes down to a few areas: skills, experience, fitness and commitment.

Trekking to Everest Base Camp?

4 Responses »

Apr 122010

This each year, Everest devotees closely watch the climbers. For many, the seed is planted that they might want to visit Everest Base Camp. For me, this was the start of my passion for mountaineering. In 1997, I made the trek to EBC with Mountain Travel-Sobek under the leadership of guide Cathy Ann-Taylor. I can safely say, it changed my life – for the better.

Everest: Beyond the Limit online

Comments Off

Jan 072010

If you missed Everest:Beyond the Limit Season 3 (2009) you can watch all 5 episodes online for free http://tinyurl.com/yeyav9o Update: it seems it is not available online in Europe.

Everest Beyond the Limit – Episoids 4,5 review

5 Responses »

Dec 302009

The final two episodes of Everest: Beyond the Limit Season 3 were quite good; very different from the first three in a number of ways. First, the camera work seemed much better; perhaps because many of the scenes were in full daylight. The editing was smooth and neither episode felt rushed when compared, especially, to the first episode. Then, I think the story line was more even and took us into the team dynamics without any of the conflict. I appreciated hearing directly from so many of the climbers and their unfiltered honesty. Finally, we held a Titter Chat (#EV09) continue reading

Everest: Beyond the Limit – a review

7 Responses »

Dec 272009

Tigress Productions filmed two teams on Everest this past spring and tonight, The Discovery Channel aired in the U.S. the first three episodes of the five part season. For the first time they filmed on the Nepal, south, side of Everest since the Chinese made it too difficult to climb from the north in 2009. Also they followed two teams, Eric Simonson’s International Mountain Guides in addition to their regular; Russel Brice’s Himalayan Experience (Himex). In a departure from their formula of interpersonal conflict, exaggerated drama and defiant climbers; this season focused almost exclusively on climbing. In the previous two continue reading

Twitter Chat Tonight for Everest: Beyond the Limit

1 Response »

Dec 272009

Anyone interested in chatting real time during the Discovery Channel Everest: Beyond the Limit tonight; follow me on Twitter at http://twitter.com/alan_arnette and put #EV09 at the end of each post. If you create a search with #EV09 it will make it easy to follow the chat. Maybe we can get some of the climbers who were there to join us. Starts at 6:00 Mountain Time

Discovery Channel: Everest Season 3 Details

2 Responses »

Dec 142009

According to the production company, Tigress Productions, Season 3 will air on the Discovery Channel in the US on Sunday, 27th December and Wednesday, 30th December. The first three episodes are being shown on the 27th at 8, 9 & 10 pm EST followed by episodes 4 & 5 at 9 & 10 pm on the 30th. Episode One covers early trips through the ice fall, David Tait’s summit with the rope fixing team and the ice fall avalanche that killed the Sherpa. Episode Two concentrates on John Golden’s summit attempt with IMG Episode Three covers the main IMG team continue reading