Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Feb 222018
 
Everest and K2 Winter Climbs Update

The winter Everest summit team is taking the normal spring schedule for their summit bid as they have good weather at the moment but it is deteriorating slightly. The Polish K2 team is resting at base camp. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Big Picture OK, now that the Everest continue reading

Feb 212018
 
Winter Everest Summit Bid Starts!

After six weeks of preparation and waiting, the winter Everest summit bid has started. The Polish K2 team is back at base camp waiting out a few days of weather. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Winter K2 – Waiting for Weather Window The entire Polish team is back at base camp continue reading

Feb 202018
 
K2 Team Reach Expedition Altitude Record, Everest Camp 2 Destroyed

With continued good weather, the Polish K2 team reached their highest point yet. On Everest, good news, bad news. Both expeditions have set early March for serious decisions. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Big Picture A reasonable question is why the Polish team on K2 is making such good continue reading

Feb 182018
 
Progress on K2

With good weather, the Polish K2 team established their highest point yet this season while the Everest team is forced to sit at base camp waiting for lower winds. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Winter K2 – Pushing Hard The Polish team are enjoying low winds for a change but continue reading

Feb 162018
 
Winter Everest and K2 - Can They Summit?

With about one month to go before the end of winter, it may be time to wonder if either team will make their winter summit. There was talk of a 20 February summit push but the winds seem still too high, however the forecast is improving. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter continue reading

Feb 142018
 
K2 Progress, Everest Dancing, Tomek's Wife Thanks Everyone

The Polish K2 team continues to fight the weather, but now over on the Abruzzi route. On Everest, they are dancing at base camp! Both teams are eying February 20th as a potential summit date. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. The Big Picture Is climbing a team sport, or a continue reading

Feb 132018
 
Lama Geshe Dies

Today I learned that much revered Lama Geshe, 87, of Pangboche passed away. For almost anyone who has climbed in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, and many trekkers, you know this wonderful man. He lived in the Himalayan Sherpa village of Pangaboch, 13,074’/3,985 m, with his wife. Their home is about three days walk from Everest Base Camp and two days from Lukla. They raised their son and daughter in their simple home that had a perfect view of Ama Dablam Lama Geshe received his Buddhist doctorate in Tibet as a young man. He was living the simple life of a continue reading

Feb 122018
 
Everest 2018: Mike Hamill Breaks out to Start his Own Company

Starting any new business is expensive and the chance of success is low. Apply that to the mountain guiding industry and double the expenses and half the success rate. So why would Mike Hamill, already a very successful mountain guide, give up his current job and start his own company in a crowded field? Mike’s new company Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) has just begun. The website is fresh and Mike is gathering clients for peaks from Orizaba in Mexico to Everest and Lhotse in Nepal this Spring. I caught up with him just before he left for New Zealand for continue reading

Feb 112018
 
K2 Teams Stops, and Starts Back Up.

The Polish K2 team halted climbing on the Česen and switched to another route believed to be safer. The Everest team continues to wait meanwhile there has been a summit of extremely cold Pik Pobeda. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Winter K2 – Switch to the Abruzzi The Polish continue reading

Feb 092018
 
Discontent on K2, Nanga Anger and Everest Patience

Another member of the K2 Polish team was injured by rockfall. This one was more serious and he will be evacuated to Skardu.  The weather watch continues on Everest and Elizabeth Revol has some harsh words for some of the organizations involved in her rescue. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit continue reading