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Jul 082019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  K2 Becomes More Organized

Good weather is allowing teams to make excellent progress on their acclimatization rotations across the Karakorum. Another teams moves from the Abruzzi to the Česen on K2. Big Picture Teams have been in the Karakorum for a couple of weeks now. The season began with a lot of snow during the trek and difficult conditions were reported at K2 Base Camp. But the weather has improved considerably in recent days. This break has enable climbers all over to make excellent progress with their acclimatization schedules and to achieve summits on Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak. I’m getting reports continue reading

Jul 062019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Progress With Good Weather

Teams across the Karakorum are making summits and progress during an elongated period of good weather. But with the record climbers on K2, some teams are making serious decisions. And a few special projects are seeing success. K2 – Two Routes Open As I mentioned in the last post, Mingma Sherpa of Imagine Nepal has switched from the standard Abruzzi to the Česen route due to crowds. Now it appears that Madison Mountaineering has switched as well. This takes over 50 climbers off the standard route but still leaves about 100 on the Abruzzi. Garrett Madison posted: Our sherpas were to fix to continue reading

Jul 032019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Will K2 be like Everest this Year?

As the ropes fixers make progress and teams prepare for their first rotations, there is trouble in the air. Similar to the early signals this past spring on many 8000ers with 10 deaths, the additional 11 deaths on Everest made the warning signs clear. And now we see the same signals on K2: record permits issued, and inexperienced climbers. The wildcard may be how the weather develops and how many days will be suitable for summit bids. In any event, queuing at House Chimney, the Bottleneck and the Traverse occur when there are less than 30 people on the Hill. continue reading

Jul 022019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Teams On the Move, Nanga Summit

With a few days of decent weather, teams made progress across the Karakorum. But the forecast calls for some high winds in the days ahead so it may become quiet later this week. The first Karakorum summit of this summer season was accomplished on Nanga Parbat. K2 – Ropes to C2 Dawa Sherpa of Seven Summits Treks, the largest team in the Karakorum, as usual, said the rope team reached C2: Just got an internet connection, have a look at SST – K2 expedition basecamp setup. All team members and Sherpas are fine, Rope fixing Team already opened route up continue reading

Jun 282019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage -  Weather Allows Progress

After the slow start for teams to even reach their base camps, the weather relented late this week and progress was made on K2, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak K2 Mike Horn made progress on K2: Back in basecamp after a successful climb to camp 1. Could not go higher due to snow conditions. Today is the first clear day so we will wait for the snow to settle and head back up this evening. It takes about 2.5 hours to get from basecamp to advanced basecamp through the icefall. It is a short trip but dangerous due to the continue reading

Jun 262019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - Too Few Porters, Too Much Snow

The 2019 Karakorum season seems to be getting off on the wrong boot. For over week now we keep hearing about poor weather on K2, now it’s the same story on Broad Peak. Kobler and Parter reports in with their 17 person team: At the moment the weather is not too favourable to go to the mountain which has given us time to make our base camp almost as chique as the cafe in Islamabad! Once again Mike Horn chimes in from K2: Bad weather still hampering our progress but we went for a hike up K2 to keep the continue reading

Jun 242019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - Snow Stalling K2 Progress

Only a few teams have arrived at K2 Base Camp thus far while many others are making their way closer by trekking on the Baltoro Glacier. Activity is also picking up on the other 8000ers in Pakistan. Finally, more deaths are being reported on the mountains this summer. Snow at K2 BC Swiss climber, Mike Horn, is doing a nice job of keeping everyone updated on his teams progress through his expensive social media. He arrived at BC last week and wanted to get to Camp 2 but snow conditions have delayed their efforts: New week, new goals! Weather not continue reading

Jun 192019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage - First at K2 Base Camp

The first climbers have arrived at K2 Base camp. Mike Horn reported in that he experienced snowfall throughout the entire trek: Hello everyone, this is Mike reporting from K2 base camp. It has been an intense week trekking up to K2 base camp. Heavy snows started falling from day 1 and didn’t stop until we reached base camp. This is quite a change from our last K2 expedition in 2015, when it only started snowing on our last day before reaching K2 base camp. Occasional snowfalls are to be expected around 5000m and upwards, however I was surprised to witness continue reading

Jun 142019
K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage

Welcome to my annual coverage of the K2 summer climbing season. I will be reporting from my home in Colorado this year based on my personal experience of our successful 2014 K2 summit and covering the action the last four years. I try to report on K2 in the same style as my annual Everest coverage but accurate information is much more difficult to obtain from Northern Pakistan than from Nepal. I’ll do my best to throw in occasional coverage for climbers on Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I and II. Currently there are 391 people scheduled to be continue reading

Jun 072019
Everest 2019: Season Summary The Year Everest Broke

Everest 2019 will go down as the year Everest finally broke. It was one of those seasons where a lot of things went wrong, more things went right and many trends took center stage with new and old lessons for members, support, guide companies and governments. The only remaining question is, is anyone listening? One Person’s Story There are many stories to tell this year but this one perhaps encapsulates the entire season of risks, support, drive, judgment and motivation.  Los Angles resident Mark Parella was climbing with Seven Summit Treks. A he was headed to the summit he developed snow-blindnesss continue reading