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Sep 272017
Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Manaslu Summits, Dhaulagiri Over

With a period of excellent weather on Manaslu, teams are making their summit pushes and over 150 have aready summited this week. However, deep snow on Dhaulagiri has ended the Autumn summit bids. Dhaulagiri – Over for the 78 year-old 78-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri has ended his 8th attempt over nine years to summit Dhaulagiri. They tried to summit last week but went up the wrong couloir. By the time they discovered their mistake, it was too late with conditions worsening. His first attempt on Dhaulagiri was in 1998 and has made others in 2001, 2006, 2011, continue reading

Sep 252017
British Climber Dies on Manaslu

The Nepali agency Himalayan Guide’s owner Ishwor Paudel is reporting that Philip Harvey, 46, of UK nationality has died as he was descending from Camp 3 on Manaslu. He was reported to have been suffering from “severe altitude sickness”. This is the first death on Manaslu this season where there are 255 foreign permits issued plus over 240 support staff on the mountain. Manaslu has seen 1,134 summits with 82 deaths making it the 3rd most summited 8000er after Cho Oyu and Everest but tied for 2nd with Everest, K2 and Dhaulagiri for the number of deaths. Lhotse has the continue reading

Sep 242017
Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Manaslu Summit Rush, Dhaulagiri Stalled

After a few days of heavy, deep snow on Manaslu, the hordes are prepared to push hard this week. Look for huge crowds at all camps and competition on the narrow summit. Meanwhile rain at base camp and heavy snow above has stalled all efforts on Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri – Rain and Snow 78-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri is holding at base camp after his first summit attempt stalled after they went up the wrong gully to reach the summit. By the time they had discovered their mistake, the conditions turned cold, windy and snowy so they returned to continue reading

Sep 172017
Autumn Himalayan Climbing: First Summits and Heavy Snow Ahead

The rope fixers reached the summit of Manaslu while other teams across the Himalayan continue to establish high camps enjoying good weather with one exception, those on Dhaulagiri saw their summit bid stopped cold. Dhaulagiri – summit stopped 78-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri saw his first summit attempt stalled after they went up the wrong gully to reach the summit. By the time they had discovered their mistake, the conditions turned cold, windy and snowy so they have returned to base camp to regroup and will hopefully give it one more try. Carlos is trying to complete his continue reading

Sep 112017
Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse

The autumn Himalayan climbing season is well underway with Manaslu, located entirely in Nepal, dominating the numbers but not the challenge. Let’s look at the more interesting climbs first. Lhotse – South Korea back for 5th time South Korean, Sung Taek Hong at age 51 is back for the 5th time to attempt Lhotse’s South Face.  The only time this route has been climbed was in October 1990 by Russian climbers Serguey Bershov and Vladimir Karataev according to the Himalayan Database. Sung Taek has attempted this route in each of the previous four years. This year he has Spanish climber continue reading

Sep 052017
Autumn Himalayan Climbing Begins

If it is early September, it must mean a migration to the big mountains of Tibet and Nepal, however for 2017, the Tibetan high peaks will be quiet. The Chinese have closed climbing throughout Tibet due to a “meeting” being held in the area. As usual the real reason remains elusive adding to the uncertainty to climbing in Tibet on any mountain in any season. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m, closed for 2017,  is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. For many years, the Chinese continue reading

Aug 282017
Staying Safe on Colorado's Deadly 14ers

2017 is proving to be a deadly summer in the Colorado mountains above 14,000 feet aka the 14ers. Thus far 8 10 now 11 as of 4 September 2017 people have died across the state. Hiking and climbing in the Colorado Rocky Mountains is supposed to be fun, not deadly. Most accidents and death happen when a person lacks the experience or exercises poor judgment. Take your time, learn the basic, follow the known rules and have fun. Certainly things can happen beyond your control as I experienced earlier this year when a gust of wind knocked me over at 11,000 continue reading

Aug 242017
Climbing News: The Difficulty of Finding the Summit

If there is one certainty in mountaineering it is not to believe everything you read, and in some cases your own eyes. For the second time this season, well-regarded Sherpa guide, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa seems to have missed the summit. First on Nanga Parbat by his own admission now on Broad Peak according to one of the climbers with him. These are not the first time Mingma has had his summit questioned even though he claims to have summited 11 of the 14 peaks above 8000 meters. For many climbers, these claims end up being honest mistakes where the climber continue reading

Aug 232017
Russell Brice Continues to Guide, but with Caveats

Last week, I made a post about Russell Brice’s public statement that he will “hang up the guiding boots.” In that post I also hoped this was an emotional reaction to cancelling his second expedition on K2 in three years. Well we now have the answer. Brice to “Stay” Russell Brice, stung by his decision to stop his K2 expedition this season when another team went on to summit, wrote a heartfelt description of exactly why he made the decision to end the summit push on K2 and summed up his newsletter with these startling statements: So once again it would continue reading

Aug 222017
Young Sherpa Brought to U.S. Before Amputation

One of the tragic stories from Everest 2017 was of Dawa Sange Sherpa who had all of his fingers severely frostbitten while working with a client who reportedly refused to turn back in bad weather. Thanks to the generosity of the climbing community, Sange is now in Vail, Colorado receiving treatment from some of the world’s best doctors but he needs our help. Good Samaritan David Snow was trekking to Everest Base Camp with his group from Utah. Sange was guiding them on the trek and on to attempt Lobuche Peak. David found the young Sherpa eager to help his continue reading