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Sep 232019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Cho Oyu Summits, including Nim's.

A quick update on the autumn Himalayan season after yesterday’s full update. We have the first summits of the autumn season by the rope team on Cho Oyu, including Nirmal Purja. Also, another team leaves Everest/Lhotse. Project Possible 12 of 14 Completed Looking to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months, Nirmal Purja, now has 12 in a mere 154 days: Annapurna (April 23), Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2, Broad Peak (July 26) and today, September 23, 2019, he got Cho Oyu from the Tibet side. Nims summited along with one continue reading

Sep 222019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Trouble on Everest

After poor progress last week due to heavy snow, the skies cleared over most of the big peaks and excellent advances were made in route fixing and acclimatization programs. Look for summits early this week on Cho Oyu and perhaps Manaslu and Dhaulagiri. But on Everest, cloudy weather returned and an ominous hanging serac forced some to leave the expedition. Everest – Climbers Leave Fearing Conditions Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering is an expert on route conditions on the Nepal side of Everest. This autumn he had the CEO of Mountain Hardware and one of their sponsored athletes on his continue reading

Sep 202019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Snow Stalls Progress, Clear Skies Ahead

With the big snow event this week, there was little to no progress on any of the big peaks. The ropes stayed where they were with no progress and the acclimatization rotations stalled. The Everest teams even thought it might be impossible this autumn but that seems to have changed.  Now there are predictions of summit attempts in the last week of September fr most peaks. The autumn season can go well into October so now is not the time to panic for anyone, expect those on Cho Oyu who must be off the peak by the end of September continue reading

Sep 182019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Heavy Snow

All the peaks are seeing a bit of weather for a few days stalling progress. Heavy snow hit Manaslu, but that is normal. Also, snow on Cho Oyu stopped progress. The Nepal Weather service sent out an adivsory: It’s a bit vague. I assume they don’t want to be pinned down so if they are right, they claim victory that they saved lives, if wrong, it was not specific so not their fault . In this post, I cover the new updates for the teams I am following. If  don’t mention someone whom I previously had, it means I don’t continue reading

Sep 172019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Summits Soon!

We may see the first autumn client summits this week, especially on Cho Oyu and perhaps Manaslu. Meanwhile most teams have arrived at all the other 8000ers on the schedule this season in mixed weather conditions. The permit numbers continue to increase as the Nepal Tourism Department issued this update:   Everest The weather is tough at Everest Base Camp creating some delays. Hopefully it will clear out as the last traces of the summer monsoon fade away. Madison Mountaineering Autumn Everest Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering and his Mountain Hardwear team have arrived at Everest Base Camp and are doing continue reading

Sep 132019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Early Progress

Teams are making excellent progress early in this autumn season across the Himalaya. Everest Prices to increase and more record breaking attempts are underway. A busy time on the world’s highest peaks! Everest First off, a small bit of news on permit prices on the Tibet side. It is being reported that the Tibet Mountaineering Association has recommended a $5,000 increase for the permit fee. source. It is currently $11,500. Nepal is at $11,000 but has proposed a minimum expedition costs of $35,000 per person, including the permit fee. Seems like both countries will use price to address some of continue reading

Sep 092019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Manaslu Crowds!

The Himalaya climbing activity is picking up with climbers trekking to Everest Base Camp and others already there on Manaslu. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these stats for the autumn 2019 season and as expected when factoring in Sherpa support, there are well over 400 people on Manaslu the season:   Of note, the permit fees for climbing in autumn are significantly lower than in spring: Everest Madison Mountaineering Autumn Everest Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering gave an update from a quiet Khumbu: It’s surprisingly quiet here in the Khumbu.  We have the lodge all to ourselves and we didn’t continue reading

Sep 032019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Rare Everest Attempts

Climbers are on their way to Kathmandu for a rare Everest autumn attempt that includes some famous personalities. Plus there will be potentially record setting action on Dhaulagiri. There could be some interesting storylines this season. Mountain Hardwear Revival with Madison Mountaineering I spoke today with Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering. He was on a layover in Paris on his way to Nepal. They hope to arrive in Lukla in a few days to begin the trek to Everest Base Camp. Garrett has a team of four climbing Everest this season including the CEO of Mountain Hardwear, Joe Vernachio. Joe continue reading

Aug 262019
New Everest Rules: A Deeper Look

Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism announced proposed changes for guiding and climbing on Mt. Everest at a press conference held in Kathmandu on August 14, 2019. The new rules need to be approved by Parliament before going into effect but are targeted for the 2020 spring season. I received a copy of the press release and the 59-page report and have been digging into them to evaluate any changes that would radically impact foreign climbers. Context: It’s Nepal’s Decision Before I go on, let me be clear and obvious. Half of Mt. Everest is located and controlled by the Nepal government, continue reading

Aug 142019
New Everest Climber and Guide Requirements

Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism announced proposed changes for guiding and climbing Everest at a press conference held in Kathmandu today, August 14, 2019. They still must be approved by the Parliament before going into effect according to ChannelNewsAsia‘s website but are targeted for the 2020 spring season.   Highlights from the 59 page report included: Expedition companies must have a minimum of three years experience organizing high altitude climbs before guiding on Everest. Climbers will have to submit proof of summiting at least one 6,500 meter peak. Guide companies must charge a minimum of $35,000 per client. (My understanding is that this continue reading