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Apr 072017
Broken Leg Update: Two Months Out

I broke my leg in four places and smashed my nasal cavity eight weeks ago today when a wind gust shoved me violently off my feet and into a rock field on Twin Sisters Peak. Jim Davidson, SAR teams plus Rangers from RMNP demonstrating the highest levels of knowledge, professionalism and compassion got me to hospitals where after two surgeries, I am now recovering. My last update was four weeks ago so time for another update. I am physically healing, yet I struggle with dark thoughts.  As I fall asleep many nights, I hear the phrase “I don’t want to be in the rocks.” When I continue reading

Mar 102017
Broken Leg Update: One Month Out

It was four weeks ago to the minute that a wind gust tossed me around like a piece of paper on Twin Sisters Peak. A heroic effort by my climbing partner, Jim Davidson, SAR teams plus Rangers from RMNP got me to hospitals where after two surgeries, I am now recovering at home. Wow, what a journey. I have had plenty of time to reflect on the experience but I’m not finished processing the event. I still have trouble sleeping and hear the phrase “I don’t want to be in the rocks.” in my mind at random times. And I am continue reading

Mar 012017
Broken Leg: I Don't Want to be in the Rocks

A quick story for those with busy lives. Two friends, Alan Arnette and Jim Davidson, were hiking along a path when the wind blew Alan over and he broke his leg. Jim called 911 and a bunch of people came and got Alan. Today Alan is home and is getting better. The End. While that may be what happened, there are a few more details I (Alan) can add. 🙂 The trail we were on was like a well worn shoe. We were training for something big, much bigger – 18,000 feet higher and on the other side of the world. With little continue reading

Death on Colorado’s Longs Peak

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Oct 032016
Death on Colorado's Longs Peak

Over the weekend the popular Colorado 14, 000 foot mountain, Longs Peak, saw the first death of 2016. According to rangers at Rocky Mountain National Park,  the victim was a 61 year old man from Greeley, Colorado. He was on a section called The Narrows when he slipped on ice and fell approximately 100 to 150 feet. Other climbers used their cell phones to contact park rangers The rangers were flown to the summit of Longs Peak via helicopter and reached the man’s body at approximately 4 p.m.  His body was recovered by a long line helicopter operation at 5:40 p.m. continue reading

Aug 242015
Colorado 14er: Crestone Peak to Needle Traverse

Climbing in Colorado is always special. On August 22, 2015, my buddy, Andy Westmeyer and I climbed two of the more difficult 14ers via a traverse: Crestone Peak to Crestone Needle. Both of the 14,000′ peaks have difficult reputations and the traverse, all above 13,600′ amplifies it. We hiked into South Colony Lake Friday night, set up camp and set the alarm for 2:30 am. The wind was blowing pretty hard so we hit the snooze alarm for an hour and left camp at 4 am for Crestone Peak. We crossed Broken hand Pass as the sun was rising, descended to Cottonwood continue reading

Aug 092015
Colorado 14,000' Mountain: Capitol Peak

Summited one of the more difficult Colorado 14, 000′ mountains, Capitol Peak for the third time yesterday. This time with Jim Davidson via the Northeast Ridge route We were rained on during the 6 mile approach and again early in the night, but skies began to clear as we approached the crux, a 100′ section aptly called the Knife Edge. Capitol is considered one the harder 14er due to it’s remoteness, high class 4 climbing requiring hands and legs and extreme exposure meaning a fall would be fatal. We summited with four other people in great conditions and good time. continue reading

Jul 262013
Going Through a Cave to Reach Longs Peak Summit

It is not often you go through a cave to reach a mountain summit. But I recently did just that on Longs Peak. I guess I have to say Longs Peak in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park is my favorite 14er given I have climbed on it over 125 times reaching the summit on 33 occasions. I’m not an overly technical climber and use Longs as training for my higher altitude climbs so it was a to explore a new route (for me) with some good friends on July 23, 2013. The Northwest Couloir was first documented by Enos Mills continue reading

Jul 032013
Colorado's Roof: Holy Cross, Snowmass and Pyramid Peaks

I had a busy week June 24, 2013 climbing three of Colorado’s major 14, and 000 foot mountains. I have climbed all 58 of the 14ers but wanted to go back to each of these for different reasons. I hope you enjoy the videos. Holy Cross via the Halo Ridge I summited Colorado’s Mt. of the Holy Cross, doctor 14,005′ on June 24, 2013 via the Halo Ridge.  The Halo Ridge is not the standard route as it requires substantial rock scrambling and a long ridge climb of 2 miles above 13,000 feet. I descended using the normal North Ridge continue reading

Jun 172013
Little Bear-Blanca Great Traverse

Colorado has 58 mountains over 14, salve 000 feet. Within this grouping many peaks have ridges that connect them but only four are deemed worthy to be be called great. On June 14th, 2013, I completed the last of these, the Little Bear – Blanca Traverse. In my opinion it is clearly the most difficult. First I climbed Little Bear, 14,037′ via the rare West Ridge direct route with partners Tom and Barry. This was not the normal Hourglass route. I then continued solo across the Little Bear-Blanca Traverse to summit Blanca Peak, 14,345’. It was an extreme day with continue reading

Jun 082013
Climbing a Classic: Longs Peak

Longs Peak standing at 14, 259 feet/4346m is the highest mountain in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. It is my base for training. There are over 100 routes on Longs, most on the extremely technical Diamond, which is one of the premier rock climbing faces in the world. However two routes dominate most of the traffic: the Keyhole route and at a distant second, the Loft route. What makes Longs so special is the opportunity to gain over a mile in vertical altitude and experience a wide variety of conditions. I summited Longs Peak on June 6th for the 30th continue reading