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New deaths have been reported today on the North side bringing the season total to 11 deaths.  Also I can confirm the death of a Czech climber, Milan Sedlacek, He led the first Czech to the summit of Mount Everest. Cause of death is thought to be altitude related or exhaustion. North Deaths Updated with names and first hand report I have confirmed through a live conversation with Jamie McGuinness of Project Himalaya currently climbing on the North side of Everest that there are 2 deaths with a possible third in motion. Climbing with Himalayan Guides, Spaniard from Tenerife, Juan José continue reading

An 18 year old summits Everest fulfilling a dream and then experiences the trauma of passing newly perished bodies on the descent. A 70 year old, turns back from the summit choosing family over a summit as the relentless winds force an obvious but still difficult choice. Summit or not, young or old; Everest remains significant for every person who steps foot on the route. Over this past weekend we have witnessed the harsh realities of climbing the big Himalayan mountains like Everest: attempts, success and death. It was a difficult journey for those on the mountain, and for those continue reading

May 19/20 on Everest has been difficult one with high winds, and canceled or aborted summit attempts. But we also have summits. Now we hold our breath as they descend in difficult conditions.  Update 3 – Summits There are reports of small independent teams summiting around 6:00AM Nepal time but only spending a few minutes due to the high winds, cold temps and frostbite risk. Also I have received reports of other teams turning back in mid climb between the South Col ad Summit due to the conditions. So, it makes it all the more impressive that Alpine Ascents has continue reading

Update 1 For those climbers starting very early and climbing fast, the weather has been good. Case in point is Adventure Consultant’s Ang Dorge Sherpa who made the summit (his 16th) in 7:20 with Spaniard Joan Clofent. This is significant in that it indicated the route was in good shape, the weather acceptable and the crowds low. As a reference, IMG’s Kami Sherpa (13 times) and I made the same climb last year in 7:40 which was unbelievable for me. In general climbers can expect to take from 7 to 12 hours to summit and about half that to return continue reading

As expected some teams and climbers have jumped the rope team and are on their way to the summit. 1st Summit Push, No ropes First the Chilean team left about 11 Pm on Thursday May 17 hoping to reach the summit in the early morning hours of May 18th. The entire team of 11 climbers and 10 sherpas, are in good condition at Camp 4, after reaching the place, located at 7950 meters, between 14:00 and 17:30 hrs. local. After about 9 hours of hard work, the group is hydrating and resting to depart at 23:00 hrs. local to the continue reading