Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 222012
 
Everest 2012: North Side Deaths Bring Total to 11- Updated to 10

New deaths have been reported today on the North side bringing the season total to 11 deaths.  Also I can confirm the death of a Czech climber, Milan Sedlacek, He led the first Czech to the summit of Mount Everest. Cause of death is thought to be altitude related or exhaustion. North Deaths Updated with names and first hand report I have confirmed through a live conversation with Jamie McGuinness of Project Himalaya currently climbing on the North side of Everest that there are 2 deaths with a possible third in motion. Climbing with Himalayan Guides, Spaniard from Tenerife, Juan José continue reading


May 212012
 
Everest 2012: Positioning for the Last Wave

The last wave of climbers are positioned at Camp 2 on the South and ABC on the North. The last weather window of the 2012 Spring season is taking shape with May 25/26th being the sweet spot.  Weather I spoke with Everest weather expert, Michael Fagin who said the monsoons were forming off India: Numerical forecast models are now starting to indicate an increase in upper level moisture in Southern India by May 25 and beyond. Models are also starting to show a shift in the upper winds by May 25 in Southern India and beyond to a more easterly continue reading


May 212012
 
Everest 2012: The Significance of Everest

An 18 year old summits Everest fulfilling a dream and then experiences the trauma of passing newly perished bodies on the descent. A 70 year old, turns back from the summit choosing family over a summit as the relentless winds force an obvious but still difficult choice. Summit or not, young or old; Everest remains significant for every person who steps foot on the route. Over this past weekend we have witnessed the harsh realities of climbing the big Himalayan mountains like Everest: attempts, success and death. It was a difficult journey for those on the mountain, and for those continue reading


May 202012
 
Everest 2012: Weekend Update May 20 - Summits! - Death Update 3

Update 3: Season summary – 8 Confirmed deaths, 1 Missing: 40 year-old Karsang Namgyal Sherpa climbing with Prestige Adventures related to alcohol at base camp; Peak Freaks’ Namgyal Tshering Sherpa fell from a ladder into a crevasse near C1; Dawa Tenzing with Himex from stroke and died in Kathmandu; 33 year-old Indian, Ramesh Gulve, climbing with the Pune team suffered a stroke around Camp2 and died back in India. Dr Ebehard Schaaf with Asian Trekking of HACE near South Summit, Shriya Shah-Klorfine, 33, a Nepali-born Canadian, Song Won Bin from South Korea died at the Balcony from AMS and then continue reading


May 192012
 
Everest 2012: Wave 3 - Update 3 - Summits

May 19/20 on Everest has been difficult one with high winds, and canceled or aborted summit attempts. But we also have summits. Now we hold our breath as they descend in difficult conditions.  Update 3 – Summits There are reports of small independent teams summiting around 6:00AM Nepal time but only spending a few minutes due to the high winds, cold temps and frostbite risk. Also I have received reports of other teams turning back in mid climb between the South Col ad Summit due to the conditions. So, it makes it all the more impressive that Alpine Ascents has continue reading


May 192012
 
Everest 2012: Wave 2 Recap

There were many summits on May 19 as expected. The winds seemed low in the morning but picked up as the day progressed. There were reports of delays at the Hilary Step and over on the North due to crowds. I have updated the location table based on information available and estimated some in the “other” category. We know there were several large teams on the South and Chinese on the North but there is no way of tracking them. The normal reporting practice on the South is once the team summits, they report the results to the Nepal Ministry continue reading


May 182012
 
Everest 2012: Summit Wave 2 - Update 1

Update 1 For those climbers starting very early and climbing fast, the weather has been good. Case in point is Adventure Consultant’s Ang Dorge Sherpa who made the summit (his 16th) in 7:20 with Spaniard Joan Clofent. This is significant in that it indicated the route was in good shape, the weather acceptable and the crowds low. As a reference, IMG’s Kami Sherpa (13 times) and I made the same climb last year in 7:40 which was unbelievable for me. In general climbers can expect to take from 7 to 12 hours to summit and about half that to return continue reading


May 182012
 
Everest 2012: 1st Summits, More on the Way

Everest 2012 continues to surprise and meet expectations of many climbers. We have the first summits of 2012 on the South. The ropes are now fixed to the summit on the South and North side as the weather window holds. First 2012 Non-Sherpa Summit – Paraveneh Kazemi – Updated Feb, 2013 Iranian female climber, Paraveneh Kazemi and Sherpa Nima Gyalzen, summited just behind the rope fixers but ahead of Chili team. They went on to summit Lhotse make her the first woman to summit Everest and Lhotse in the same season. She was on a permit with an International team continue reading


May 172012
 
Everest 2012: Summit Wave 1 Underway

As expected some teams and climbers have jumped the rope team and are on their way to the summit. 1st Summit Push, No ropes First the Chilean team left about 11 Pm on Thursday May 17 hoping to reach the summit in the early morning hours of May 18th. The entire team of 11 climbers and 10 sherpas, are in good condition at Camp 4, after reaching the place, located at 7950 meters, between 14:00 and 17:30 hrs. local. After about 9 hours of hard work, the group is hydrating and resting to depart at 23:00 hrs. local to the continue reading


May 172012
 
Everest 2012: Ropes Near the Summit

Update 1 Chilean team left South Col near Midnight May 17th to summit without fixed ropes. Would be first 2012 summits Update 2 Also Ueli Steck is on his way. He is climbing without supplemental oxygen. Best news of the season, no winds on Thursday May 17 allowing the rope fixers to set lines high on both the North and the South! This is extremely exciting because it shows 1) progress and 2) the weather forecast was spot on! Big Picture With the winds cooperating and teams on both sides pushing according to their respective schedules, look for summits as continue reading