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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jan 042013
 

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2013 coverage

My coverage is based on my own experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

Latest Everest News – May 23, 2013

  • Teams summited Friday morning on the North
  • Teams ‘cleaning’ the mountain – removing tents, oxygen bottles, etc
  • Carols Pauner said he used O’s thus not meeting goal to climb 14x 8000m mountains without O’s. Also returning to Shishapangma
  • 80 year-old Japanese Miura Yiuchiro summits, sets age record
  • Previous record holder, Nepali Min Bahadur Sherchan, now 82, is at EBC and scheduled to climb next week.
  • Could have 600 summits for 2013, one of the largest in history.

South Col Route (map)

 
Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
29 teams, 315 climbers, 500+ Sherpas/Staff
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4/SC
Summits
(climbers/Sherpas)
Facebook for AC Twitterfor AC Adventure Consultants (10/4) e         9/10
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global (5/0) e         2/2
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (2/1) e         2/4
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3)(4/1) e         18/21
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking Eco Teams (10/0) (10/0) e         12/16
  Berg Adventures (3/0) e         2/2
  Himalayan Ascent e         1/2
Facebook for IMG Himex (12/2)      -X     12/12
Facebook for IMG IMG Classic (14?/1?) e         16/17
Facebook for IMG IMG Hybrid (8?/2?) e         4/7
Facebook for JG Jagged Globe (10/2) e         11/11
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Mountain Trip (3/1) e         1/4
Facebook for MT RMI (3/2) e         2/3
Facebook for MT Patagonia Brothers(2/1) e         3/2
Facebook for PF Twitter for PF Peak Freaks (8/3) e         6/8
  Pune Indian (6) e         3/?
  Rolwaling (7/2) e         7/8
Facebook for SC Summit Climb (7/1) e         8/8
Facebook for SC Tim Mosedale (6/1) e         2/2
  USAF 7 Summits (6/0)  e         4/4
  others X       ? 179
  SOUTH TOTAL (est)           419

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

 
TEAMS (clients/western guides)
10 teams, 100 climbers/125+ Sherpas/Staff
CBC ABC C1/NC C2 C3
Summits
(climbers/Sherpas)
  AMICAL (4/0) e         4/?
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking (5/0) e         4/4
  Adventure Peaks (9/2) e         8/6
  Altitude Junkies (10/1) e          4/7
  Kobler & Partner e         6/9
Facebook for SC Summit Climb (15/1)          -X+  3/3
  7 Summits Club (13/4) e         11/6
  others X         78 est.
  NORTH TOTAL (est) X       ? 153
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010 and 2012 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease

Please Donate for Alzheimers Today

8 Confirmed 2013 Everest deaths

  1. Mingma Sherpa, 47, from Lukla, working as Icefall Doctor slipped into crevasse in Western Cwm.
  2. DaRita Sherpa, 37, from Phortse working for IMG died from sudden cardiac or cerebral event at Camp 3. Family fund at this link
  3. Sergey Ponomarev climbing with 7 Summits Club died at Advanced Base Camp on the north side presumably of a heart attack.
  4. Lobsang Sherpa, 27,from Kharikhola working for Seven Summits Treks fell down Lhotse Face.
  5. Alexey Bolotov, 50, from Russia, has died from a fall. He was climbing with Denis Urubko on a new route on SW Face
  6. Namgyal Sherpa, 35, Kathmandu and Bangdel Khotang, died on North Side
  7. Sung Ho-Seo, 34, of South Korea was attempting the climb without supplementary oxygen and died on his way down the mountain.
  8. Mohammed Hossain, 35, from Bangladesh, died in his tent a few hours after successfully climbing the summit.

A death has been reported on Lhotse. Xiaoshi Li, 58, died climbing Lhotse. An earlier report of Hsiao Shishlee, proved to be the same person.


Please click this link for the discussion page including on the Simone More/Sherpa Conflict.


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Everest 2013 Team Locations - sticky
May 232013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 8 Recap

If this was the last night for Everest 2013 summits, it was a good one. But I learned a long time ago that just when I think it is over, there are a few more teams sneaking up! We had over 50 summits Thursday morning. First up is 80 year-old Japanese Miura Yiuchiro summits, setting an age record. He is an amazing man who I met in 2008 in the Khumbu Icefall. Very friendly and seems to enjoy life to the fullest! By the way, he had multiple injuries from skiing along with some surgeries and then summited Everest for continue reading


May 222013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 7 Recap and Summit Wave 8: Update 3

Update 3 80 year-old Japanese Miura Yiuchiro summits, setting an age record. Over 50 summits on reported early Wednesday morning by Asian Trekking Dave Hahn, Benegas Brothers and Tim Mosedale with their remaining teams summits. This was Dave Hahn’s 15th summit, a non-Sherpa record.  Himex put  22 on the summit. Update 2: Asian Trekking reports a summit Wednesday morning by Douglas Scarborough and Phurba Sherpa and Ngima Dorji Sherpa . They summited at 5:40AM after leaving the South Col at 7:00 pm last night. Dave Hahn, Benegas Brothers and Tim Mosedale with their remaining teams are all either on top continue reading


May 212013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 6 Recap and Summit Wave 7 - Update 3

Update 3 Mountain Trip just sent this note out: We just received a call from the summit, we have 5 on top right now! 7.25am, Yahoo! Conditions sound perfect, very light winds, no crowds. Sounds like things started out very windy and have improved through the night. That’s super good news here. We have Manoj Vora, DaWang Chu Sherpa, Serki Sherpa, Gombu Sherpa and Norbu Sherpa enjoying the view. Manoj and all the sherpas sound good, no problems.  Carlos Pauner summited completing thus completing climbing all 14 8000m mountains without supplemental oxygen Melissa Arnot and Tshering Sherpa summit from South. continue reading


May 202013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 6 - Update 2

Update 2 The students from Sanawar India are starting to summit. They are 16-17 years-old: Hakikat Singh Grewal, Guribadat Singh, Prithvi Singh Chahal, Ajay Sohal, Shubham Kaushik, Fateh Singh Brar and Raghav Jonneja We have summits from IMG (10 summiters),  Asian Trekking and Adventure Consultants (16 summiters) at 4:15 AM Nepal time. Conditions are reported as breezy. Other teams are reporting steady progress higher. Update 1 The Mountain Trip team decided to hold at the South Col reporting winds at 20 mph gusting to 30 – at the edge of their safety margin. Those following the Senior Challenge, 80 year-old continue reading


May 202013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 5 Recap

With the good weather continuing, Everest is seeing a steady stream of climbers. A reported 135 climbers are pushing on Monday night and hoping to summit on Tuesday morning just from the South This long window had been predicted for quite a while so it is nice to see it develop. May 21st has been targeted as the day for over a week. This weather pattern has allowed a rather orderly stream of climbers with little to no summit delays reported at any of the bottlenecks on the South. The dual ropes on the Hillary Step seem to have also continue reading


May 192013
 
Everest 2013: Weekend Update, Summit Wave 5 - Update 2

Wave 5, Update 2: IMG reports 21 on the summit this morning including the US Air Force team climbing. Conditions are noted as cold and windy. Jagged Globe reported 3 more on top: Nacer Ibnabdeljalil, Guy Munnoch and Guy Manning summited this morning with Sherpas, Dawa Gelji, Tashi and Karma. We believe this is the first Moroccan summit of Everest. All 24 members of the Jagged Globe climbing team have summited over 19/20 Reports are quiet tonight. Most teams are not reporting like last night. Nothing unusual, some do, some don’t. Wave 5, Update 1: 80 climbers reported climbing from continue reading


May 182013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 Recap

Saturday night was busy on Everest and by Sunday morning there were over 100 summits from both sides. It will take while to know the exact numbers but the climbing conditions were reported as good as it gets. 120 climbers, both Sherpas and Westerners, were reported to be climbing Saturday night just on the South so it appears the expedition leaders did a good job of coordinating summit pushes. By my count there are around 400 going for the summit throughout this season from the South alone this year. No long lines or crowds were reported, in fact, Peak Freaks continue reading


May 182013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 - Update 3

Update 3: There were over 100 summits Sunday on Everest. See the details in the Everest 2013:Wave 4 Wrap up. Summits continue with great conditions on the south. No issue with lines at the usual bottlenecks. This just in from Asian Trekking: Congratulations !!! Great news. Asian Trekking’s International Everest member David Liano and Sirdar Mingma Sherpa summited Mt.Everest this morning at 4:35 am Nepal time. David Liano is now the first person to complete the double in one climbing season. Asian Trekking family extends hearty congratulations to them and wishes for the safe descent. Summits are starting to roll continue reading


May 172013
 
Everest 2013: Summit Wave 3, Sherpa Death - Update 2

Update 2: Multiple summits on Friday night from the commercial teams of IMG 3 clients, 1 guide, 7 Sherpas and Alpine Ascents putting 9 clients, 3 guides, and 12 Sherpas. Alpenglow: 1 client, 1 guide, 2 Sherpa Update 1.5: Summits pushes underway leaving the South Col at 8:00PM. Winds are reported to be less than last night. Teams are reported above Balcony and heading towards South Summit in good conditions.   Once again, I start an update with the death of a Sherpa. Namgyal Sherpa reportedly has died at 8300 meters on the North side on Friday. There are few continue reading