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May 232017
Everest 2017: Wind Returns with Vengeance, Costly Body Retrievals

There were summits early morning of 23 May, but it may not have been the best choice to push it. Teams turned back, some never left camp and those who made said it was difficult. Meteorologist Chris Tomer told me “full on Jet Stream on the summit”. He advised his client, Ricardo Pena, to stay at the South Col, which he did on 23 May. Meanwhile the family of a climber who died over the weekend are willing to put more lives at risk to get their loved one home. And the admired traverse is not what was advertised. North Gets Hit Big winds continue reading

May 222017
Everest 2017: What Really Happened to the Hillary Step

As we wait for more summits this week, let take a look at one of the most talked about stories from Everest 2017 is the fate of the Hillary Step. First reported as “gone” now Nepal officials are saying it’s just fine, just covered with snow. For those outside the climbing community, and for many inside, this seems like a silly discussion as we all know mountains move, change, grow and collapse all the time. So what if the Hillary Step changed?   Latest News – 23 May early morning in Nepal Nobukazu Kuriki has left Camp 2 to ascend to the West Ridge continue reading

May 222017
Everest 2017: Huge Wave 3 with a Traverse and Speed Summit

As I posted in almost real-time, there were many summits on Monday morning on both sides and there were some surprises! Here is a quick update of summits and information not in my last post North Updates: The Russian team 7 Summits Club lead by legendary Alexander Abramov put more on the summit. I have lost count but believe it is over 20, maybe 30, including support: Like an hour ago, said Alexander Abramov, today, 22 May at 4:30 am Nepal time the whole team reached the summit of Everest. Successful descent guys! At 6 am Moscow time all were already in 8300 continue reading

May 212017
Everest 2017: More Summits, Rescues and Dots - Updated

Monday morning 22 May, aka Wave 3, was as big as we expected with well over 100 new summits on both sides of Everest. The weather remains good for most teams. The body of missing Indian climber was found taking the death toll to six on both sides in 2017. With a full week to go, I estimate well over 350 total summits on both sides and perhaps as many as 150 more to come. This is a rundown of the results. I apologize for not mentioning every name so click on the links to see them by team. Also, continue reading

May 212017
Everest 2017: 3 New Deaths, 1 Missing

The Everest season has turned tragic as scores of climbers summit on the south side and more are on their way. The fickle weather of 2017 has finally calmed calling to the climbers to finish their quest. There have been deaths on both sides. While few details are provided, it appears these were associated with altitude, not weather. Meteorologist, Chris Tomer, told me just now that the good weather we discussed over the past few posts will continue with one exception: Looks about the same from my vantage point…jet streak arrives on 22nd with wind flare. The earlier they summit the better Deaths This is what continue reading

May 212017
Everest 2017: Death, Summits and Thefts - Update

Sunday morning, 21 May, had a death on Everest at the Balcony as reported by the Himalayan Times. Few details are available. Update: Fifth death:  Vladimir Strba, 50 from Slovakia, died near Balcony on south side. Climber Missing: Ravi Kumar missing after getting separated from guide at Balcony Fourth death: 54-year-old Francesco Enrico Marchetti, 54 from Australia, at 7500m while descending from summit on Tibet side. Third death Roland Yearwood,50 from USA Alabama,  reported, few details. Blind Austrian climber Andy Holzer summited on north with Furtenbach Adventures Friday night thru Saturday morning looks to have been big on the south as the winds calmed for a continue reading

May 202017
Everest 2017: Weekend Update May 20

This last week was big, especially on the Nepal side with the ropes fixed to the summit by the innovative Gurkha team along with first summits form that side. However, this upcoming week could be the biggest of the 2017 season. With the weather on the south side still the big story, team after team have moved into position to attempt the summit over this weekend. Meanwhile last week (and even last night) a few teams took risks – some succeeded, others didn’t. While there have been a few sporadic reports of frostbite, and reports of helicopter evacuations; thankfully no further deaths have been made continue reading

May 192017
Everest 2017: Start, Stop Start, Summits

The variable weather is creating confusion with some teams, while others being more patient seem to have the timing just right. And we have summits on the north side last night! There are a few teams trying again tonight. The winds are supposed to begin to calm. Several teams at the South Col late Thursday night (Nepal time) were hoping to summit early Friday morning. Some left, while others just stayed in their tents. The winds were gusting and whipping tents making them miserable at 8000 meters. Those who left returned before reaching the Balcony using up their precious oxygen supplies. There was continue reading

May 182017
Everest 2017: Summit Wave 2 Underway

Team after team pulled into Camp 2 on the Nepal side and Advanced Base Camp on the North. Some are going to the summit 18 May Thursday night looking to summit early Friday morning 19 May. The weather looks to be marginal and high winds are currently reported. Summit Waves To try to maintain some kind or organization, for years I have called these summit pushes “waves”. I loosely define them as when a large group of teams try to summit during a somewhat defined weather window. I called the last set of summits Wave 1 lead by Transcend on the north and the continue reading

May 172017
Everest 2017: Palpable Excitement as Teams Move Higher

Base Camp on the Nepal side is quickly becoming lonely as many teams left in the cold dark early morning hours of Wednesday 17 May, 2017. A similar pattern is occurring on the north, but several left yesterday. 10 or more teams left Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side this morning. I estimate 200 people (foreigners and Sherpas) on the move today all to Camp2, so we may hear a comment or two on waiting to cross ladders in the Icefall. See the location table for details. While this may seem like a lot of people, Everest is a continue reading