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May 202018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 7 Recap - Another Death, Summits over Obstacles

By this past week’s standard Sunday 20 May was a real slow day on Everest with just a handful of summit, around 50! But those who did had to work a bit harder than the rest to reach that spot. Also, don’t forget to read the Weekend Update for this past week that was filled with oxygen drama, deaths, records and over 400 summits! Common Sense Over Silly Rules Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas had to deal with over a week of unknowns to see if they were even allowed to attempt to summit. After they skied down the Lhotse continue reading

May 192018
Everest 2018: Weekend Update May 20

A lot to cover from this week! Last weekend I started the update with “… this upcoming week will be like riding a wild horse. It appears, the winds have finally calmed and the jet stream has moved away … Hold on tight, its summit season!” Well was it ever! There were summits every day of the week and it looks like it may keep going until the base camps are empty or the monsoons begin, whichever comes first. But as everyone who follows Everest knows, its the weather that has the last say and it bears a close eye continue reading

May 192018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 6 Recap, Wave 7 Underway - Update 1

UPDATE 1: Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas had to slow down and stop because they were climbing too fast otherwise they wold miss the sunrise!!!!  he messaged “We went way too fast, we are burrowed in at south summit waiting for the sun – Matt Moniz” They waited an hour for sunrise and summited per Matt’s Tracker at  4:49 am. Also the first Greeks to summit Kang. Another good day on Mount Everest. This weather window has been about as good as it gets on Everest. Yes, there has been a bit of wind now and then but overall, it’s looking continue reading

May 182018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 6 Underway

Here we go for the fifth day in a row for Everest summits. Looks like the summit teams may have several inches of snow over the next three days but the winds remain manageable. We’ll see what really happens. Several other teams are staged at the South Col and C3 on the North for early Saturday 19 May summits. Many are climbing NOW! Adventure Consultants is climbing and already to the Balcony.  Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas at at C3 Friday looking to summit Everest on the 20th and Lhotse on the 21st.  You can follow Willie’s GPS tracker or Matt’s. continue reading

May 182018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 5 Recap - 100+ Summits, Oxygen Update

It was day four of Summit Central on #Everest2018 with more than 100 combined summits from both sides. Again the weather was holding as it has been but a bit of snow is expected over the weekend up high. Oxygen Update More Oxygen Problems – On South Now, Alpenglow going back up On their summit push, Kenton Cool and Ben Fogel also experienced regulator problems identical to Alpenglow’s on the Tibet side. Ben Fogel said on Instagram: The only blight on the Everest expedition has been a major problem with the Oxygen delivery system. At 8000m plus most people need supplemental continue reading

May 172018
Everest 2018: Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas Cleared to Climb

Calling their skiing down the Lhotse Face without a ski permit a “a very innocent mistake” Department of Tourism’s director general Dinesh Bhattarai has given his blessing to 20-year-old American Matt Moniz and 49-year-old Argentine Willie Benegas for their Everest and Lhotse climbs. They hope to go this weekend, weather permitting. If successful, this will be Benegas’s 12th summit of Everest and Moniz’s first after being stopped twice before by ice serac release onto the Icefall in 2014 and the 2015 earthquake.  Since May 7, the pair have been living under a veil of threats. They had read in the Nepal newspapers that continue reading

May 172018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 5 Underway - Update 1

UPDATE 1: Nepal Maddison Mountaineering put 3 guides, 5 members and 8 Sherpas up there. Climbing the Seven Summits had 100% success with 3 guides and 5 members and 8 Sherpas. Satori Adventures and Expeditions said they had summits but no details. Tibet Adventure Peaks with Ricky Munday and Patrick McNight “summited At 04:30hrs Nepali time and are now back down at Camp 3 and are continuing down to Camp 2. There was more wind and snow than expected, but it didn’t seem to slow them down too much. ” 28 year-old Illina Frankiv is reported to have summited by her husband and also an Everest summiter continue reading

May 172018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 4 Recap - 70+ Summits and Russian Death on Nepal Side

What was a good day of summits turned tragic as a climber died on the descent on the Nepal side. There were a number of summits on both sides, 27 summits (12 foreigners) summit from Nepal and 40+ (20 foreigners) from Tibet on Thursday 17 May. Death on Nepal Side Bashinformation Russia is reporting that Russian climber Rustem Amirov apparently began to have altitude sickness after he nearly summited Lhotse and no one could reach him in time. Apparently he had done only one acclimatization rotation after arriving in the beginning of May according to people who met him at EBC. Its reported continue reading

May 162018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 4 - Update  SUMMITS!

Teams are once again on the move from their high camps on the Tibet side and Nepal hoping to summit early Thursday morning 17 May, 2018. After yesterday’s big day with over 140 summits, today should be a bit quieter. Also, hoping for less drama after the failed oxygen systems on the North side. Alpenglow Ends Season After a dramatic evening of oxygen tanks hissing life saving oxygen into the atmosphere at 28,000 feet (link), theAlpenglow team made a joint call to end their spring season. Alpenglow posted on Facebook Teams have decided against making another summit attempt. The enormous continue reading

May 162018
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 3 Recap - Sherpa Death on Everest

A Sherpa has died while over 140 people summited Everest on Wednesday morning, May 16. But a series of oxygen system failures stopped at least one team. Look for another day of summits on Thursday as May 17 was the date many teams had target last weekend as the winds calmed. Last night was clear, winds were not an issue and about the usual temperature -4F/ -20F.  Here’s the recap. Sherpa Death Lam Babu Sherpa from Kurima Solukhambu died on May 15.  Details are unclear but he is said to had snow blindness. He was on the Nepal side reported continue reading

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