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Dec 092019
 
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I/II

With winter now here, its time to review the Himalayan action for the next few months. There are expeditions planned for K2, Everest, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums plus a few other peaks. I’ll cover Everest and K2 in two separate posts. This is for K2 and Broad Peak. See this post for Everest. K2 Money Woes First up is Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s Imagine Nepal effort. In 2011, Mingma became the first Nepalese to summit all the 8000ers. He made the grand K2 Winter announcement on September 7, 2019: This winter we will try K2 via Abruzzi Route following the traditional and most continue reading

Dec 092019
 
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest

With winter now here, its time to review the Himalayan action for the next few months. There are expeditions planned for K2, Everest, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums plus a few other peaks. I’ll cover Everest and K2 in two separate posts. This is for Everest and the other planned climbs. See this post for K2. Everest 2020 – Two Separate Attempts There are two separate attempts. Jost Kobusch had announced he would attempt from the southside, crossing over the Lho La Pass to the West Ridge and then ascend the Hornbein-Couloir (A on this map) but this may have changed continue reading

Dec 012019
 
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2020 Edition

2020 is my eighth year to blog, “How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?” For the second straight year, we see significant changes in the prices and rules applied to Everest from Nepal and China. However, the overall impact of these changes is very uncertain. As usual, I’ll break everything down in this post. So, how much does it cost to climb Mount Everest? As I’ve said for years, the short answer is a car or at least $30,000, but most people pay about $45,000, and some will pay as much as $160,000! But, the prices are going continue reading

Nov 252019
 
Interview with Nabin Trital of Expedition Himalaya

Over the last five years, much of the guiding business in Nepal has shifted from foreign-owned companies to Nepali owned and based guide services. One is Expedition Himalaya owned and run by Nabin Trital. I caught up with him to check on his business and get his thoughts on recent announcements and prices increase from China. Q: Nabin you have run a trekking agency for years in Kathmandu and helped many expeditions obtain permits and run expeditions. When did you begin your business? Who has been some of your more famous clients? I have been engaged in running expeditions since continue reading

Aug 262019
 
New Everest Rules: A Deeper Look

Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism announced proposed changes for guiding and climbing on Mt. Everest at a press conference held in Kathmandu on August 14, 2019. The new rules need to be approved by Parliament before going into effect but are targeted for the 2020 spring season. I received a copy of the press release and the 59-page report and have been digging into them to evaluate any changes that would radically impact foreign climbers. Context: It’s Nepal’s Decision Before I go on, let me be clear and obvious. Half of Mt. Everest is located and controlled by the Nepal government, continue reading

Aug 142019
 
New Everest Climber and Guide Requirements

Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism announced proposed changes for guiding and climbing Everest at a press conference held in Kathmandu today, August 14, 2019. They still must be approved by the Parliament before going into effect according to ChannelNewsAsia‘s website but are targeted for the 2020 spring season.   Highlights from the 59 page report included: Expedition companies must have a minimum of three years experience organizing high altitude climbs before guiding on Everest. Climbers will have to submit proof of summiting at least one 6,500 meter peak. Guide companies must charge a minimum of $35,000 per client. (My understanding is that this continue reading

Jun 212019
 
Everest: Nepal Looking at Huge Permit Fee Increase

Its been rumored for the past two years that Nepal will increase the permit fee to climb Everest from the current $11,000 to $15,000 but now, according to conversations I had this week with both major foreign and Nepali operators, there is talk of increasing the Everest permit fees to as much as $25,000 per person. To my knowledge, no final decision has been made. Ministry Under Pressure With global pressure for Nepal to “fix” Everest after the 11 deaths just this past spring, the Government appears to be struggling with various options while protecting their cash cow. There are continue reading

Jun 102019
 
Everest 2019: Indians Fake their Summit Claim

Three Indian climbers came home to celebrations and fanfare for summiting Mt. Everest last month but there was only one problem – they never got above Camp 3 at 23,000-feet, much less on the summit at 29,035 feet. Vikas Rana, Shobha Banwala, and Ankush Kasana all from villages in Northern India, were climbing with the Nepali guide company, Prestige Adventures, along with six others members. They claimed to have summited on May 26 when there were no other climbers on the summit. When asked the names of their four sherpas, they could’t recall their names according to a report in continue reading

Jun 072019
 
Everest 2019: Season Summary The Year Everest Broke

Everest 2019 will go down as the year Everest finally broke. It was one of those seasons where a lot of things went wrong, more things went right and many trends took center stage with new and old lessons for members, support, guide companies and governments. The only remaining question is, is anyone listening? One Person’s Story There are many stories to tell this year but this one perhaps encapsulates the entire season of risks, support, drive, judgment and motivation.  Los Angles resident Mark Parella was climbing with Seven Summit Treks. A he was headed to the summit he developed snow-blindnesss continue reading

May 302019
 
Everest 2019: Team Locations and Headlines

LATEST HEADLINE May 31: Season Over 11 Everest Deaths, 900 estimated total summits  Welcome to the 2019 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2019 coverage Current Headlines Read continue reading