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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 312017
Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits. HEADLINE: Normal Season, Windy, 7 Deaths, 600++ Summits See continue reading

Feb 272017
Everest 2017: Welcome to Everest 2017 Coverage

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2017 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2017 but let me officially welcome you. This will be my 16th season of all-things Everest: 10 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004,  2005,  2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you are one of my 2 million regular readers, hello again, if you are new, welcome! continue reading

Feb 092017
Alex Txikon leaving for winter Everest Summit

Alex Txikon’s team is leaving Everest Base Camp for their highly anticipated winter summit attempt. They will first go to Camp 2 then wait for the optimum weather sometime between February 14th and 18th. He is climbing with Aitor Barez, the expedition movie director and Pablo Magister who is the cameramen. The expedition is being supported by Seven Summits Treks. There have been Sherpas climbing with them – 2 ice doctors: Nima y Ghense,  Seven Summits Sherpas: Norbu, Nuri, Chhepal, Furba, Lakpa yPemba. Txikon said earlier about the Sherpas who will join him on the summit push and the use of oxygen: Norbu has climbed continue reading

Feb 072017
Look for Everest 2017 to be One for the Records

While most Everest followers are keeping a close eye on Alex Txikon‘s imminent winter summit push, the traditional spring season in just seven weeks away. And it looks to be one for the record books! I am expecting over 600 summits from the South (Nepal) side and well over 200 from the North (Tibet) totaling 800 from both sides, smashing the record set in 2013 with 658 total summits from both sides. In 2016, 641 climbers made the summit from both sides. Record Summits and New Climbers I base this prediction on the record autumn 2016 summits on Manaslu and high traffic on Cho Oyu. These continue reading

Jan 272017
Everest 2017 Gets Closer - A Q&A

As we near the end of January, climbers across the globe are continuing to train, finalize gear and preparing to say goodby to loved ones. A few months ago, I posted what I tongue-in-cheek called a “personal letter” to 2017 Everest climbers with the message – don’t go! The main point I was making was that in modern times, post 2000, lack of experience played a large role in the deaths of some climbers. I went as far as to list some questions that was designed to make people think about what they thought they knew about climbing Everest. A couple continue reading

Jan 222017
Everest Winter Attempt Reaches Camp 3 - Member Evacuated

Alex Txikon’s team reached Camp 3 at 6917m on the Lhotse Face but team member 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio, was evacuated by Helicopter with lung inflammation. Txikon posted on Facebook: From the C3 of Everest I send all my strength to Carlos Rubio Infante Muñiz great companion and friend who has had to be evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu because of a lung inflammatory process. He is stable and I know he is fine, but from here we miss him a lot, since he has worked like a champion and I am really proud of him. Tomorrow we continue reading

Everest winter Attempt Reaches Camp 1

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Jan 142017
Everest winter Attempt Reaches Camp 1

Alex Txikon’s team and Sherpas have established the route through the Khumbu Icefall and have tagged Camp 1 at the entrance to the Western Cwm. He reports they are moving well and climbing fast. Their Camp 1 is at 6040 meters, about 100 meters higher the normal location but it varies each season depending on avalanche danger off the West Shoulder of Everest and Nuptse to the south. He noted that the temperature at -30C/-22F. Txikon posted on his blog: After four stages of work equipping The Khumbu icefall yesterday that the wind gave us a window of good conditions, we ascended and spent the night continue reading

Dec 302016
Everest by the Numbers: 2017 Edition

For those who follow Everest closely, the arrival of the official summit numbers is always a milestone. The Himalayan Database was updated with the latest summit statistics on December 6, 2016. This post is a nice complement to my recent updated post on “How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mt. Everest“. The Database contains the summit records for almost all of the Himalayan peaks located in Nepal from 1905 to present day and is maintained by a small team of devotees lead by the legendary Ms. Elizabeth Hawley out of Kathmandu and published by the American Alpine Club. See this wonderful continue reading

Dec 182016
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2017 Edition

“How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?” This is a popular question I get after a speaking engagement. The short answer is a car or at least $30,000 but most people pay about $45,000. This completely new 2017 post introduces new options for climbers, a look at new rules, a chart of current offers and serious answers to serious questions plus a few survey questions where you can weigh in with your thoughts in addition to making a thoughtful comment. 2018 Note: I will be updating this page for 2018 in the next few months but I don’t expect significant changes. See the continue reading

Everest Winter, No O’s Attempt!

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Dec 172016
Everest Winter, No O's Attempt!

A huge program has been announced by Alex Txikon who may be one of the few climbers on the planet qualified to attempt climbing Everest in the winter without supplemental oxygen. He and teammates, Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara knocked off Nanga Parbat last winter leaving on K2 as the last 8000er without a winter summit. An effort for a winter K2 summit by Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki was canceled due to lack of funds. As for Everest, Txikon announced on his website that he and a small team will arrive in Nepal on Christmas day to begin a two month effort to summit continue reading