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Jun 022018
Preparing for Everest 2019!

With #Everest2018 in the books, I wanted to step back and see what lessons were available from this season and how to prepare for #Everest2019, if that’s in your mind. First off, let me start with a plug for my consulting service, Summit Coach, where I have worked with many climbers over the past 18 months to help them successfully summit Everest, Gasherbrum II, Denali and other peaks across the world. More on this in a moment. Everest 2018: The Good and the Bad This season was good in many respects with my estimate of a record 700+ summits and a continue reading

May 242018
Everest 2018: Season Summary - Record Weather, Record Summits

With an unprecedented weather window, the Everest season is winding down with well over 700 summits smashing the previous record set in 2013 of 667 from both sides by members and support climbers. I estimate that there were 476 summits using the standard Southeast Ridge route in Nepal, and 239 on the Northeast Ridge in Tibet. Nepal issued 346 Everest climbing permits to foreigners, including 20 Nepalis, and 180 from China from the Tibet side. Big Picture Early in May, there was talk of early summits but then the jet stream moved on top of Everest and stopped all activity continue reading

May 242018
Everest 2018: May 25 Team Locations and Headlines

UPDATED: May 25, 2018 This is Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage and based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.   HEADLINE: Season is Over 700+ Summits, 5 Deaths See all the Everest 2018 posts here Latest News: 25 May 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) Current Headlines continue reading

Apr 032018
Everest 2018: Climbers to Watch

While every climber is special to their friends and family, a few stand out each year try to do something special. Teams are all over Nepal today, with many in the Khumbu, others still in Kathmandu. The flights to Lukla are full and thus far going smoothly. Every year, Everest attracts highly driven individuals seeking to summit for their own personal reason. I try to follow the most unique ones so let me introduce a few in this post. Horia Colibășanu – New Route? While there are about 17 named routes on Everest, there are still many routes that have continue reading

Mar 072018
Nepal Supreme Court Allows Disabled Climbers

In a dramatic, and reasonable move, the Nepal Supreme Court has struck down a new rule by Nepal’s Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation to ban climbers with double amputations and blindness. The case was brought on behalf of double amputee Hari Budha Magar who is a former British Gurkha. Mager reacted on Facebook with “What a great news to hear when I wake up this morning. Now, we have summited a bureaucratic Mt. Everest. The justice has served! Thank you Supreme Court, you are our hope to get justice. This is true example of Nepalese judiciary system, keep it up! continue reading

Feb 132018
Lama Geshe Dies

Today I learned that much revered Lama Geshe, 87, of Pangboche passed away. For almost anyone who has climbed in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, and many trekkers, you know this wonderful man. He lived in the Himalayan Sherpa village of Pangaboch, 13,074’/3,985 m, with his wife. Their home is about three days walk from Everest Base Camp and two days from Lukla. They raised their son and daughter in their simple home that had a perfect view of Ama Dablam Lama Geshe received his Buddhist doctorate in Tibet as a young man. He was living the simple life of a continue reading

Everest 2018: Mike Hamill Breaks out to Start his Own Company

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Feb 122018
Everest 2018: Mike Hamill Breaks out to Start his Own Company

Starting any new business is expensive and the chance of success is low. Apply that to the mountain guiding industry and double the expenses and half the success rate. So why would Mike Hamill, already a very successful mountain guide, give up his current job and start his own company in a crowded field? Mike’s new company Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) has just begun. The website is fresh and Mike is gathering members for peaks from Orizaba in Mexico to Everest and Lhotse in Nepal this Spring. I caught up with him just before he left for New Zealand for continue reading

Feb 072018
Everest: A Race to be the Most Expensive Guide

This is a headline I never thought I would write. Seven Summits Treks (7ST), a solid Sherpa owned and operated guide company out of Kathmandu, made a seriously surprising announcement this week. 7ST made their name catering to the emerging middle class in India and China by charging less than half, and sometimes one-third, of what the best foreign operators charge for an Everest expedition.  This strategy enabled their tremendous growth with teams of 50, 60 or even close to 100 members on Everest climbing from Nepal for the past several seasons. They were founded by brothers Mingma Sherpa, and Chhang continue reading

Jan 152018
Everest 2018: Welcome to Everest 2018 Coverage

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2018 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2018 and am actively covering both the Everest and K2 winter attempts so let me officially welcome you. This will be my 17th season of all-things Everest: 11 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004,  2005,  2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you are one of my continue reading

Dec 222017
K2 and Everest Winter Climbs are on!

After months of speculation, Alex Txikon will return to attempt a winter, no supplemental oxygen summit of Everest. And the Polish K2 team will leave Poland on 29th December for their winter K2 attempt. UPDATE: The K2 team has left Poland. Winter Dates To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 20, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT. Also to be fully continue reading

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