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Mar 052018
 
K2 Team Ends Winter Expedition

The Winter Polish K2 team ended their effort after K2 had seen over 80cm/31 inches of new snow that buried ropes and destroyed high camps. The climbing community is now 0 for 4 with attempts to summit K2 in the winter since 1987/88. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture – Facing Reality With 15 days left, the Poles needed to finish their acclimatization rotation, stock the high camps and then have a multi-day weather window open.  Given that all three continue reading

Mar 012018
 
The Definition of Winter for K2 and Everest Climbs

With the drama dissipating from K2, the Polish team remains at base camp waiting for better weather. Everest is now officially over but the debate about when winter ends, will continue forever. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture – When does Winter End? One of the big questions this season on both K2 and Everest is “When does winter officially end?” If you have been reading my blog  you might have seen comments from readers with clear views, for continue reading

Feb 272018
 
K2 Team Focuses on the Summit. Another Everest Attempt?

Denis Urubko remains at base camp along with the drama. Now that he is off  the team, the remaining climbers are focusing on a potential summit push around mid March.  Alex Txikon suggested he ended his winter Everest attempt with his permit expiring on 28 February but today said maybe not! See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture – Weather Watch Part 5,693 Once again it’s all about the weather. The winds stopped Txikon on Everest and the winds stopped continue reading

Feb 252018
 
Winter K2 - Denis Urubko Abandons Summit Effort, Leaves Team

Update: Denis Urubko has decided to leave the team. He didn’t summit. The Polish team made this announcement today: Denis Urubko, in accordance with their beliefs about the end of the winter season, decided to leave the Winter Expedition to K2. This decision was accepted by the members of the expedition who did not see the possibility of further cooperation with Denis after his attempt to gain self apex. Denis Urubko is currently at Camp 2 descending to base camp. Its unknown but doubtful he summited. He was on a push to K2’s summit, alone and without O’s. He has no radio continue reading

Feb 242018
 
Solo K2, Everest Abandoned - Winter Update 1

Climbers, feeling the pressure of deadlines, records and life, stopped their Everest attempt and set out solo on K2. See the Update below. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition, but even that is debatable. Big Picture – The Rational and Irrational Pursuit of Records We are witnessing the best and continue reading

Feb 222018
 
Everest and K2 Winter Climbs Update

The winter Everest summit team is taking the normal spring schedule for their summit bid as they have good weather at the moment but it is deteriorating slightly. The Polish K2 team is resting at base camp. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Big Picture OK, now that the Everest continue reading

Feb 212018
 
Winter Everest Summit Bid Starts!

After six weeks of preparation and waiting, the winter Everest summit bid has started. The Polish K2 team is back at base camp waiting out a few days of weather. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Winter K2 – Waiting for Weather Window The entire Polish team is back at base camp continue reading

Feb 202018
 
K2 Team Reach Expedition Altitude Record, Everest Camp 2 Destroyed

With continued good weather, the Polish K2 team reached their highest point yet. On Everest, good news, bad news. Both expeditions have set early March for serious decisions. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Big Picture A reasonable question is why the Polish team on K2 is making such good continue reading

Feb 182018
 
Progress on K2

With good weather, the Polish K2 team established their highest point yet this season while the Everest team is forced to sit at base camp waiting for lower winds. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Winter K2 – Pushing Hard The Polish team are enjoying low winds for a change but continue reading

Feb 162018
 
Winter Everest and K2 - Can They Summit?

With about one month to go before the end of winter, it may be time to wonder if either team will make their winter summit. There was talk of a 20 February summit push but the winds seem still too high, however the forecast is improving. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter continue reading