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Jun 172018
 
K2 2018 Summer Season Coverage: Weekend Update 17 June - Japanese at K2

The summer K2 season is well underway with teams at base camp or making the trek up the Baltoro. And the other big Karakoram peaks are also welcoming climbers to base camps and even higher. Challenge to Base Camp There are multiple challenges to even getting to the Karakoram, starting with arriving in Islamabad. The country is still under high security but in my two visits there, I never had any issues and found the people extremely freindly. Then there is the flight to Skardu. Most teams try to fly direct via a daily Pakistan International Airline flight, but due continue reading

Jun 142018
 
K2 2018 Summer Season Coverage: Teams at Base Camp

Teams are arriving at K2 Base Camp so look for climbing to begin soon. Japanese Arrive Akira Oyabe and his 10 member team from Japan have arrived at K2 Base Camp. They are having satellite problems but did get a short update out: 6/10: BC (5000 M) 6/11: Set up a tent on ABC (5250 M) and advanced to 5500 m 6/12: BC stay 6/13: Root maneuver for C1 (scheduled) Rope Wars Once again the Furtenbach team is complaining about other teams using their ropes and not paying for it. Last year this was broken record so we will see continue reading

Jun 092018
 
K2 2018 Summer Season Coverage

Welcome to my annual coverage of the 2018 K2 summer climbing season. I will be reporting from my home in Colorado this year based on my personal experience of our successful 2014 K2 summit and covering the action the last three years. I try to report on K2 in the same style as my annual Everest coverage but accurate information is much more difficult to obtain from Northern Pakistan than from Nepal. I’ll do my best to throw in occasional coverage for climbers on Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I and II. As always, I use my blog to continue reading

Mar 052018
 
K2 Team Ends Winter Expedition

The Winter Polish K2 team ended their effort after K2 had seen over 80cm/31 inches of new snow that buried ropes and destroyed high camps. The climbing community is now 0 for 4 with attempts to summit K2 in the winter since 1987/88. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture – Facing Reality With 15 days left, the Poles needed to finish their acclimatization rotation, stock the high camps and then have a multi-day weather window open.  Given that all three continue reading

Mar 012018
 
The Definition of Winter for K2 and Everest Climbs

With the drama dissipating from K2, the Polish team remains at base camp waiting for better weather. Everest is now officially over but the debate about when winter ends, will continue forever. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture – When does Winter End? One of the big questions this season on both K2 and Everest is “When does winter officially end?” If you have been reading my blog  you might have seen comments from readers with clear views, for continue reading

Feb 272018
 
K2 Team Focuses on the Summit. Another Everest Attempt?

Denis Urubko remains at base camp along with the drama. Now that he is off  the team, the remaining climbers are focusing on a potential summit push around mid March.  Alex Txikon suggested he ended his winter Everest attempt with his permit expiring on 28 February but today said maybe not! See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture – Weather Watch Part 5,693 Once again it’s all about the weather. The winds stopped Txikon on Everest and the winds stopped continue reading

Feb 252018
 
Winter K2 - Denis Urubko Abandons Summit Effort, Leaves Team

Update: Denis Urubko has decided to leave the team. He didn’t summit. The Polish team made this announcement today: Denis Urubko, in accordance with their beliefs about the end of the winter season, decided to leave the Winter Expedition to K2. This decision was accepted by the members of the expedition who did not see the possibility of further cooperation with Denis after his attempt to gain self apex. Denis Urubko is currently at Camp 2 descending to base camp. Its unknown but doubtful he summited. He was on a push to K2’s summit, alone and without O’s. He has no radio continue reading

Feb 242018
 
Solo K2, Everest Abandoned - Winter Update 1

Climbers, feeling the pressure of deadlines, records and life, stopped their Everest attempt and set out solo on K2. See the Update below. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition, but even that is debatable. Big Picture – The Rational and Irrational Pursuit of Records We are witnessing the best and continue reading

Feb 222018
 
Everest and K2 Winter Climbs Update

The winter Everest summit team is taking the normal spring schedule for their summit bid as they have good weather at the moment but it is deteriorating slightly. The Polish K2 team is resting at base camp. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Big Picture OK, now that the Everest continue reading

Winter Everest Summit Bid Starts!

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Feb 212018
 
Winter Everest Summit Bid Starts!

After six weeks of preparation and waiting, the winter Everest summit bid has started. The Polish K2 team is back at base camp waiting out a few days of weather. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Both expeditions need to summit no later than the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 0:15 PKT for K2 and 18:00 NPT for Everest to meet a winter summit definition. Winter K2 – Waiting for Weather Window The entire Polish team is back at base camp continue reading

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