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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Dec 022018
 
2018/19 Winter K2, Nanga Parbat but No Everest

As the winter of 2018/19 begins, we are seeing another set of attempts on the world’s second highest peak K2 however the winter Everest commercial expedition has been cancelled.  K2 remains the only 8,000-meter mountain not summited in winter and Everest has only a few. Also there will be a winter attempt by a new route on Nanga Parbat. Before I get to who is climbing, one of the more interesting aspects of claiming a winter summit is exactly when is winter? Big Picture – When does Winter End? If you remember the K2 attempt last winter, there was a lot continue reading

Aug 252018
 
My Summit Video from the 2014 K2 Climb

It took a while but I finally got around to editing all my K2 video clips from our 2014 summit climb into one short (33 minute) video. As regular readers remember, all my climbs are to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s Disease. I became the oldest American at age 58 and the 18th American to summit K2. We summited on my birthday July 27, 2014. The video starts with our arrival in Islamabad, then the journey via planes, and FJ Cruiser’s to the “end of the road” at Askole where the 80-mile trek to K2 Base Camp begins. continue reading

Jul 292018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Season Summary

The K2 2018 summer season has come to an end when the Austrian operator Furtenbach Adventures declared the weather window had closed and they spent too much time on Broad Peak thus missing their K2 opportunity. Overall, K2 saw over 60 summits –  a record – by several different teams. As always with K2, there were deaths, two this year. Big Picture K2 continues to play hard with climbers in all seasons. Early in 2018, a well respected Polish team gave their best effort to make the first winter summit but were denied. Blame the weather, or botched logistics or poor continue reading

Jul 232018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: K2 Ski Video, Attempts Come To An End

Monday, July 23, 2018 saw the few remaining climbers give up as poor weather once again took over K2. Perhaps some will try to stay for another try but it is looking more and more unlikely.  David Roeske, who was climbing with Fredrik Sträng, posted on Instagram from Camp 3 on K2: This morning we woke to high winds and snow, which had been forecast for mid-week, but we were expecting another day or two of good weather in order to squeeze in a summit. With the bad weather arriving and another week of it predicted we turned back. We had rushed continue reading

Jul 232018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Record Weekend on K2 and a Death

It was a record weekend on K2 with over 60 summits breaking the record of 51 set in 2004. Another record set was by Polish climber and skier Andrzej Bargiel who put together an amazing route to ski directly from the summit of K2 to base camp. Death But the celebrations were quieted on news that 41 year-old Japanese climber, Mr. Kojiro Watanabe died on K2. He had summited along with his five Japanese teammates. It appears he fell during the descent in the Bottleneck, a well-known challenging area. He fell around 8,300-meters about 6:00 pm local time. They had summited continue reading

Jul 222018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Japanese Death on K2

Sad news just now from K2 that Mr. Kojiro Watanabe, 41, died on K2. He had summited along with his four Japanese teammates. It appears he fell during the descent in the Bottleneck, a well-known challenging area. He fell around 8,300-meters about 6:00 pm local time. They had summited between noon and 1:00 pm on Sunday, July 22, 2018. The Bottleneck is a narrow couloir, just 400m/1,300-feet below the summit and directly underneath the giant hanging serac. It is estimated at 50 to 60 degree steepness.  Today, many teams bypass the couloir altogether by climbing a rock buttress to the climber’s right continue reading

Jul 222018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: First K2 Ski Descent!

Sunday 22 July 2018 saw another 32 summits on K2 taking the total for 2018 to 63, what I believe is the biggest year ever for the world’s second highest peak. Also, Andrzej Bargiel skied the entire descent taking a quite curious routing down to avoid the highly technical sections like the Black Pyramid and House Chimney on the Abruzzi Spur. Ski descent Andrzej Bargiel is reported to have connected four routes on the descent: Abruzzi Rib, the Česen the Messner variant and the Kukuczka-Piotrowski routes. He skied from the summit to the High Camp at 25,800’/7800m before being forced to wait out continue reading

K2 2018 Summer Coverage: More K2 Summits – Weather moving In

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Jul 212018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: More K2 Summits - Weather moving In

Following a near record day of K2 summits, more teams stood on top of K2 on Sunday July 22nd, 2018. Big weather is forecasted to move in on Tuesday thru Thursday so now is the time to push for the summit of K2. I’ll update this post as new information becomes available over the next 12 hours. Masherbrum Expedition providing some support for Madison noted: “11 members, 9 Sherpas and 2 Pakistani highporters summit K2 on 22 July.” Before leaving, Garrett told me he had,  “… a team of 10 clients, 2 guides plus myself (Geoff Schellens and Robert Smith), 11 continue reading

Jul 212018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Good Day for K2 Summits, More to Come

July 21st 2018 was a good day for K2 climbers. 31 people summited – all from the Nepali company Seven Summits Treks (SST). With 100% success, they had 13 Sherpas, 2 Pakistani High Altitude Porters and 7 clients on the top. The members were from Mongolia, China, Japan, Belgium, Switzerland, Mexico and Ireland. Also three clients and two Sherpas from Summit Climb and two Sherpas from Madison Mountaineering, who were helping with the rope fixing, completed the total of 31. See this post from SST for the names of their summiteers. Of note there were five women climbers who summited including Gangaamaa continue reading

Jul 202018
 
K2 2018 Summer Coverage: K2 Summits - Update 1

UPDATE 1: It’s a good day on K2 with many summits.  There are 31 summits thus far on 21 July Saturday 2018. Seven Summits Treks clients have summited K2. They post: Here are the list of successes summiteers: 1. Jianjonh Li (China) 🇨🇳 2. Mingma Gyabu Sherpa (Nepal) 🇳🇵 3. Chhiji Norbu Sherpa (Nepal) 🇳🇵 4. Noel Hanna (Ireland) 🇮🇪 5. Ms. Gangaamaa Badamgarav (Mongolia) 🇲🇳 6. Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland) 🇨🇭 7. Dawa Gyaljen Sherpa (Nepal) 🇳🇵 8. Lhakpa Temba Sherpa (Nepal) 🇳🇵 9. Krishna Thapa Magar (Nepal) 🇳🇵 10. Pemba Thinduk Sherpa (Nepal) 🇳🇵 11. Ngima Thenduk Sherpa (Nepal) 🇳🇵 continue reading

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