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Feb 182019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: "Hurricane" at K2 and Messner Weighs In

As had been predicted, high winds are hitting K2 Base Camp and everyone is holding tight for the storm to pass. The high winds will persist through Friday so look for a quiet week and then a lot of climbing starting on the weekend with perhaps a summit push late next week. Informed Opinions say “No Summits” While these climbers are waiting out we weather and trying to keep camps stocked, some big names are weighing in that they “have no chance.” Denis Urubko opined on K2, “they have no chance to get there this year”: (source) It is impossible continue reading

Feb 102019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Progress

Excellent progress on K2 over the weekend with both teams moving well but more bad weather in the forecast including wind chills of -108F!! K2: Progress and Waiting K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Progress Four climbers, Abildaev, Aubakirov, Danichkin and Pivtsov, of the The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team climbed above the Black Pyramid and left a cache of gear at 7,100-meters over the weekend. This was their high point thus far. They returned to Camp 2 and will return to base camp to wait out degrading weather. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb and their site are the best sources. continue reading

Feb 082019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 and Nanga Stalled by Weather

More big winds and snow are causing slow, if any, progress on these two Pakistan 8000-meter peaks. One teams feels they might not go for the summit until early march. K2: Reinforcements K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – More Money The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team has received a boost in funding from their sponsor allowing three new members to join the team. Originally there were 11 members but due to lack of funds it was reduced to 7. Now three Kazakh climbers: Ildar Gabbassov, Ahat Smailov and Amaner Temirbaev will join the team. While they are not acclimatized, they continue reading

Feb 042019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Stalled,  Nanga Regroup

Progress on K2 and Nanga Parbat feels stalled as the winter clock continues to advance. Teams are in their respective base camps either recovering from rotations or waiting for good weather. Injuries have taken six members thus far from the collective K2 efforts. K2: Climbers Injured, Weather Delays K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Sleep at C2/6800m The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team is back at K2 Base Camp resting up and passing time by spending 30 minutes each in a Gamo bag. They did a day trip to Advanced Base Camp, about 2 hours from normal BC, to check continue reading

Jan 302019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Progress, No Manaslu, Nanga Fragments

There is progress on K2 but clarification that the two teams are working independently. Locals quit on Nanga and avalanches end Manaslu effort. The winter clock continues to advance. K2: Climbers Injured, Weather Delays K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Sleep at C2/6800m The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team is back at K2 Base Camp after a few rotations up the mountain and after almost 7 days of weather delays. They have slept at 6800-meters/22,310-feet the location of traditional Camp 2 on the Abruzzi. In an interview with Michael Danichkina on the Polish site Wspinanie.pl we learn that all is about continue reading

Jan 152019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: At K2 Base Camp, Climbing Nanga

One of the K2 teams arrived at base camp but poor weather is already hindering progress. Climbing is going well on Nanga Parbat, but also some weather concerns. K2: At Base Camp K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – at BC The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan arrived at K2 Base Camp in good condition. They tried to do a recon to Advanced Base Camp, a short walk from BC, but turned back when they hit poor weather. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – At Concordia The other K2 continue reading

Jan 112019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: Trekking

Not a lot of new information from any of the teams. The K2 teams are still on the trek and others are still early in their climbs. K2: Trekking to Base Camp K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Trekking the Baltoro The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are trekking towards K2 Base Camp. They are currently at the Urdukas Camp. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – Trekking the Baltoro The other K2 team, lead by Alex Txikon, are also trekking the Baltoro Glacier towards K2 Base Camp and at continue reading

Jan 062019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers en route, Nanga Climbers Climbing, New Everest Route?

The winter 8000-meter teams are well on their way to their respective peaks. On Nanga Parbat, the climbing has begun. K2: In Skardu K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Arrival Pakistan  The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are in Skardu after taking a bus on Karakoram Highway for 30 hours. It seems there was some construction and repairs along the way that delayed their progress but all is well now. Next up is the 8 to 10 hour drive in Toyota 4Runners to the end of the road in Askole where they will being the trek to K2 continue reading

Jan 032019
 
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers Enroute, Antarctic Update, 28 Everest Summits?

The winter 8000-meter teams are all arriving or are already acclimating towards their objectives. Remember this will be a long effort, especially on K2, with summits near the end of January at the earliest. K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Arrival Pakistan  The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are in Islamabad and are preparing to fly to Skardu for the 4Runner drive to the end of the road in Askole where they will being the trek to K2 Base Camp Vassiliy Pivtsov is the expedition leader and Basil Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) is the head of the expedition and the continue reading

Dec 292018
 
2018/19 Winter K2: Climbers Enroute, Controversy in Antarctic, Colorado Perfect

The K2 teams are on their way to Pakistan for their winter attempts but not without problems already. K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team First up is an international group, made up of climbers from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan. They are already having financial issues according to the website Russian Climb and reduced the team size from 11 to 7: Despite comprehensive efforts, the guys could not find money for all originally claimed eleven members. Therefore, the team will go to Karakorum in a reduced composition. There will be seven of them.. Vassiliy Pivtsov is still the expedition leader and Basil Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) continue reading

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