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Jul 232017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Climbing! Update 1

After weeks of waiting, climbers are finally moving up on K2 and Broad Peak hoping to summit in mid week; some hope to ski down. Their plans are a bit of a gamble but with time running out they had few choices. From early reports the weather is still a factor. UPDATE Monday 24 July: Reports from climbers and Sherpas say persistently high winds are keeping climbers at C2 on both Abruzzi and Česen routes on K2 summit push. Some are questioning if they can make summit on this window if the winds don’t let up. This is probably the last continue reading

Jul 212017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Summit Plans

A plan has been hatched to attempt the K2 summit this season. Climbers were beginning to worry if 2017 will be a redux of 2015 and 2016 on K2. The weather seems to have stalled leaving base camp covered in a soupy mix of cloud, rain, hot, and cold. As Russell Brice says, four seasons each day. Gasherbrum Retreat Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza, are reported to have turned back on their latest attempt to traverse from GII to GI. They have experienced deep snow but this time it was high winds. Their sponsor posted: The ridge was continue reading

Jul 192017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Weather Watch

As Yogi Berra said: “It’s déjà vu all over again.” And with that activity on K2 has come to a complete stop. High winds, rain at base camp and snow up high has teams on hold but not on Gasherbrum I where we saw some summits. K2 The result of Friday’s avalanche on the Abruzzi route on K2 remains unknown. Minga Gyalje Sherpa provided this short update today: K2 is known for bad weather. This year too, K2 is same. She covers herself with cloud in day time and enjoy beautiful stars in night time. Legendary climber and expedition organizer, Russell continue reading

K2 2017 Season Coverage: High Winds Strike Once Again

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Jul 162017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: High Winds Strike Once Again

Climbing continues on K2 and for a few on Broad Peak but once again the weather, specifically high winds, are slowing progress. K2 The result of Friday’s avalanche on the Abruzzi route on K2 is still a question. Minga Gyalje Sherpa provided this short update today: Avalanche on Abruzzi route on 14July is still unknown. Yesterday our 7 climbers reached camp2 and they were supposed to go camp4 today but it couldn’t happen because of high wind. They are on their way back to Base camp now. So tomorrow I will go myself with 2 other Sherpa to check way to continue reading

K2 2017 Season Coverage: Avalanche on the Abruzzi

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Jul 142017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Avalanche on the Abruzzi

While this headline is a bit dramatic, it is also quite common on K2. Of first priority, no one was hurt. I had just received a message from British-American climber, Vanessa O’Brien this morning saying that there was a lot of snow on K2 then this came in from her expedition operator,Minga Gyalje Sherpa: Big Avalanche in Abruzzi This morning at 8:12am, we saw big avalanche coming from Abruzzi route. We feel all camp3 is swept away again. I am sure we have all our deposit near camp4 because our sherpa team made it on ice cliff but it is likely continue reading

Jul 132017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: The Rare K2/Broad Peak Double Summit

For some climbers one summit is not enough so they add a second peak on the same trip to claim that all elusive double. Now that there have been summits on Broad Peak this 2017 summer, many climbers will move to K2. This coveted double header is often sought but rarely achieved. The most recent double for Broad Peak and K2 , I can remember, was in 2014 by Bulgarian climber Boyan Petrov. I passed him descending from the summit as he was going up near Camp 2. He was young, strong and confident so I wasn’t surprised to learn continue reading

Jul 112017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Broad Peak Summits!!

In spite of changing weather forecast, Furtenbach Adventures and Kari Kobler put climbers on the summit! On K2, Sherpas got ropes near Camp 4. Broad Peak Summits Lucas Furtenbach posted on their summtis: SUMMIT!!! Glad to report that our team made the first Broad peak summits this year. After a start at 7pm at C3 yesterday they were breaking trail to the saddle in 1 meter deep snow. The sherpas made an unbelievable job and worked really really hard. From the saddle to summit our lead guide Rupert took the lead and fixed the rope to the summit. An other group followed continue reading

Jul 102017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Climbers Dodge Wild Weather

It is business as usual in the Karakorum. The weather is driving some teams crazy creating stop/start summits pushes on Broad Peak and the Gasherbrum while those on K2 seem to be taking their time to acclimatize. Broad Peak: Stalled … Again Òscar Cadiach  stopped his attempt over the weekend due to deep snow above C3. They reported great weather but the deep snow and avalanche danger was too much. Another weather front is moving in thus Oscar will wait until 18 June to try again. Grace McDonald also on Broad Peak posted a nice update in Instagram on Sunday that continue reading

Jul 052017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Weather Stalls Progress

Right on cue, bad weather moved into the Karakorum stopping a proposed summit attempt on Broad Peak and some rope fixing on K2. However, there has been progress in spots. Grace McDonald on Broad Peak with Furtenbach Adventures summed it all up perhaps for everyone in the Karakorum today: I made a stormy descent to base camp this morn while snow continues to dump on the mountain. I’m looking at alternative summit windows with other teams. Broad Peak: Stalled Lucas Furtenbach of Furtenbach Adventures described the poor weather that stopped their Monday summit plans: Weather forecast changed again so team forced to stay down at continue reading

Jul 012017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Search Halted on Nanga, Monday Summits on Broad?

The Karakorum season is off to a sad start with multiple deaths. Meanwhile teams are hoping for Monday summits on Broad Peak and others reach Camp 1 on K2. Search Ends for Climbers Nanga Parbat: search ends After a helicopter search found avalanche debris at the last GPS transmission point for the Spanish-Argentinian team of Alberto Zerain and Mariano Galvan the search has been halted. The last transmission was on June 24th. Desnivle posted this statement from their home teams: After two flights inspecting the entire edge, the helicopter has returned without finding any trace of the two climbers . Around 03:00 am (0600 p.m., continue reading