The Blog on alanarnette.com

A brief update on the mid-winter climbing season. The Southern Hemisphere is in focus with Mts Kilimanjaro, Vinson and Aconcagua receiving the usual attention. Thus far it has been a safe season albeit with death.
The commercial outfitters are in full swing with multiple expeditions to these three of the seven summits. Word has it they are sold out and doing well. The local outfitters are also doing well reporting good business. This is impressive given the world economy. Somehow climbers always find a way to climb.
Aconcagua
After a difficult start for many teams including an early season death, most are now continue reading

If you missed Everest:Beyond the Limit Season 3 (2009) you can watch all 5 episodes online for free http://tinyurl.com/yeyav9o
Update: it seems it is not available online in Europe.
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Welcome to a new decade! And as you would expect, technology leads the way with cameras at the center stage. Most hikers, trekkers and climbers love to take pictures from their perils so picking the right camera is important. I have updated a long time section of my site for the latest technology now available in 2010.
Probably the most exciting announcement in the past year or so was a brand new format called Micro Four Thirds.  The promise is of a camera with the performance of a DSLR in the size of a point and shoot. Panasonic and Olympus are continue reading

Ever wonder who was first to summit K2 or how many women from India have made it to the top of Everest or some other nuance of climbing statistics?
Well Eberhard Jurgalski has updated his website for 8000m climbs up to 2009. You can download a huge number of spreadsheets with summit, route, nationality, death and more records from all 14 8000m mountains including Everest.
A great resource for research or just for interest.
Thanks Eberhard,
Alan
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New on www.alanarnette.com

When I started this website almost a decade ago, my vision was to simply share my experiences through introspective and candid reporting. That has not changed however the site has evolved over the years so let’s take a brief look back before we look forward.
All of my 16+ big climbs including Denali, Aconcagua and the 3 to Everest had extensive coverage that included live dispatches, gear lists, an FAQ page plus an extensive collection of pictures presented in a gallery format with a sideshow presentation. Every Colorado 14er summit has it’s own page – 52 at this point.
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The final two episodes of Everest: Beyond the Limit Season 3 were quite good; very different from the first three in a number of ways.
First, the camera work seemed much better; perhaps because many of the scenes were in full daylight. The editing was smooth and neither episode felt rushed when compared, especially, to the first episode.
Then, I think the story line was more even and took us into the team dynamics without any of the conflict. I appreciated hearing directly from so many of the climbers and their unfiltered honesty.
Finally, we held a Titter Chat (#EV09) with Astronaut and continue reading

A Month with a Mac

It has been about a month  since we replaced our Windows PCs with iMacs so I thought a quick report was in order. I am glad to report – all is fine.
As I posted on November 19, we replaced an HP and Dell PC running Windows XP with two iMacs. The installation and data transfers were simple. And the learning curve fast. We both have standard configurations with 4 MB and are pleasantly surprised at the speed.
Cathy’s World

Looking a bit deeper; I tend to use the computer for more functions than my wife, Cathy, who mostly surfs her favorite websites, continue reading

Tigress Productions filmed two teams on Everest this past spring and tonight, The Discovery Channel aired in the U.S. the first three episodes of the five part season.
For the first time they filmed on the Nepal, south, side of Everest since the Chinese made it too difficult to climb from the north in 2009. Also they followed two teams, Eric Simonson’s International Mountain Guides in addition to their regular; Russel Brice’s Himalayan Experience (Himex).
In a departure from their formula of interpersonal conflict, exaggerated drama and defiant climbers; this season focused almost exclusively on climbing.
In the previous two seasons, Himex climbers continue reading

Anyone interested in chatting real time during the Discovery Channel Everest: Beyond the Limit tonight; follow me on Twitter at http://twitter.com/alan_arnette and put #EV09 at the end of each post.
If you create a search with #EV09 it will make it easy to follow the chat.
Maybe we can get some of the climbers who were there to join us. Starts at 6:00 Mountain Time
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A combination of Friday the 13th and Vertical Limit …

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