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Communicating from Everest – 2012 Update

 6 Responses »
Jan 022012
 
Communicating from Everest - 2012 Update

I receive many questions on how I did my live dispatches for the 7 Summits so I put together this short tutorial for anyone wanting to communicate during an expedition from anywhere on our planet. While staying in touch is mandatory and part of an expedition for me, some people want to get away from it all and escape the modern noise that comes with 24 by 7 communications. If that is your case, then take a sat phone for safety but don’t use it unless there is an emergency! Tell everyone that no news is good news and you continue reading

 7 Summits, Everest 2012, Musings

Gifts for the Climber in your Life

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Dec 052011
 
Gifts for the Climber in your Life

Looking for that perfect gift for your climber? Here are some ideas based on my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything this past year:         Free!: Take walk with your climber and ask him/her why they love the mountains.       Under $10 Black Diamond Nitron Carabiner: strong, solid and easy to clip on and off the life lines. I used these exclusively on Everest and Denali         Under $20: The Ledge: A story of resilience and courage by my friend Jim Davidson. Trapped on Rainier in a crevasse, his partner continue reading

 Climbing News

7 Summits Gear Review

 9 Responses »
Nov 222011
 
7 Summits Gear Review

Climbing 8 big mountains in 11 months required many things but proper gear was a must. In this post, I will review what I used, what worked, what didn’t;  taking it a layer at a time. To review, I did 8 climbs with 7 summits in 11 months. They were: Vinson (Antarctica), Aconcagua (South America), Everest (Asia), Denali to 17K when stopped by weather (North America), Elbrus-North (Europe), Kilimanjaro (Africa), Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania), Kosciuszko (Oceania). I will refer to the mountains as coldest: (Vinson, Denali and Everest) and warmest (Kilimanjaro, Carstensz and Kosciuszko) with Aconcagua and Elbrus in the middle. continue reading

 7 Summits

Kilimanjaro Gear

 4 Responses »
Sep 042011
 
Kilimanjaro Gear

I leave for Kilimanjaro in a few days and have all my gear packed. My previous descriptions and videos of the gear I am using for the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s has been popular so I thought I would do one for this climb. Believe it or not, I have added a couple of new items that I needed for the unique nature of a Kili climb but otherwise will use most of the same gear I have on the previous 5 climbs. There is one huge exception – no crampons, ice axe, harness or other technical gear. It continue reading

 7 Summits, Kilimanjaro 2011

Everest 2011 Gear Recap

 8 Responses »
Jun 072011
 
Everest 2011 Gear Recap

I know many readers are self proclaimed Gear Junkies so I thought a brief review of my gear I used to summit Everest would be of interest. As usual, these are not endorsements and I always paid for my gear unless noted otherwise. Overall, I used the same items and techniques I have on 30 expeditions the past 10 years. There were four parts to my Everest expedition: trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC), life at EBC, acclimatization climbs from EBC to Camp 3 at 24,000’ and the climb from the South Col (26,300’) to the summit (29,035’). One more continue reading

 7 Summits, Everest 2011

A Look at my Everest 2011 Gear

 20 Responses »
Mar 072011
 
A Look at my Everest 2011 Gear

It is less than 3 few weeks until I leave and I have all my gear laid out on the floor. I like to stand and look at it for what seems like hours visualizing every section of the climb. I have my lists but I find it most useful to think through each section, imagining the worse and best cases and be prepared. You would think I would l have it down by now! Everest is very different than all the other 7 Summits. First, you never carry that much in your pack, or drag a sled. Then you continue reading

 7 Summits, Everest 2011

Gear Review: Patagonia R1 Hoody and MICROspikes

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Feb 142011
 
Gear Review: Patagonia R1 Hoody and MICROspikes

As I work my way through climbing the 7 Summits, I am testing a few pieces of new gear both on the climbs and for training. First up is new to me, a  mid layer for warmth – the Patagonia R1 Hoody. Patagonia has had variations of this style available for years but this new version is a strong winner. The other item are MICROspikes from Kahtoola. Developed by the grandson of the famous Gore family, these are crampon replacements are designed for situations when the big guys are too much. I have been using them on my training climbs continue reading

 Musings

Aconcagua Climb Now Underway (video)

 22 Responses »
Jan 142011
 
Aconcagua Climb Now Underway (video)

Wow, it seems like I just got home from Antarctica and I leave for Argentina tomorrow! This will be the second climb of The 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. This time it is Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside the Himalaya at 22,897′. This video show how I am packing for the expedition’s three parts: trek, climb and summit. As always you can visit my gear page for specifics on brands. I am climbing with International Mountain Guides. This is the tentative schedule but subject to change as always: Jan 15 Depart the United States. Day 02 Arrive continue reading

 7 Summits, Aconcagua 2011

Preparing For Aconcagua: Gear and Training

 10 Responses »
Jan 012011
 
Preparing For Aconcagua: Gear and Training

Having been home from my successful Vinson summit a few weeks now, my attention has shifted from reflection to planning. The next climb is Aconcagua in mid January. There are two major activities at this point: gear review and continued training. This will be the second climb in The 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. Of note, this one has the second highest vertical gain of all the climbs at 14,377 foot gain second only to Everest. First a bit on Aconcagua. It is both well-known and unknown at the same time. The primary claim to fame is continue reading

 7 Summits, Aconcagua 2011

Mt Vinson Gear

 7 Responses »
Nov 162010
 
Mt Vinson Gear

As I get closer to leaving for Antarctica, it is time to layout all my gear and check, double check and check again. Overall, I will take almost the same items I used on Everest or other 8000m climbs even though Vinson is “only” about 5000m or 16,067′. It’s the Wind, Mr. Scott While temps can hit -40F, it is the wind that creates the extreme danger. Katabatic winds are the culprit. These winds come down from the high mountains sometimes at hurricane force bringing all activity to a halt, including flights in and out. Of note is the first continue reading

 7 Summits, Vinson 2010

Gear Review: Tents, Poles and Packs oh my!

 1 Response »
Jul 312010
 
Gear Review: Tents, Poles and Packs oh my!

One of the benefits of climbing is it requries gear. As they say, the difference between men and boys is the price of their toys. This goes for the ladies but it doesn’t rhyme as well. Anyway, I really don’t buy a lot of gear anymore since I have my favorites but when I do I research my options and try to get what I think best fits my needs. Sometimes it works, other times, it is a learning experince. I just posted three new reviews for items I am using quite a bit this summer in my Colorado mountains. continue reading

 Musings

Gear Reviews: Ice Tools, Base Layers and Gloves

 1 Response »
Feb 262010
 
Gear Reviews: Ice Tools, Base Layers and Gloves

One of the great things about climbing after Christmas is  chance to try out all those new toys you got over the holidays as gifts or on sale. And I am guilty as charged! I recently went ice climbing in Ouray and then made the summit of Colorado 14er, Quandary Peak in temps well below zero and winds gusting over 30 mph. Perfect time to try out new gear. In Ouray, I used my new Black Diamond Cobra ice tools for the first time. I had bought them on sale at the BD site and was anxious to see if continue reading

 Musings

Buying Climbing Gear Online

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Nov 122009
 

Everybody wants a deal. Houses, cars, beer and of course, climbing gear. Thus an entire industry has emerged over the years to serve this “price sensitive” market online. After all why pay $500 for that down jacket you need – yes you need it – instead of say, $99? I know I buy most of my gear online these days. It is safe, easy and convenient. I have about 5o gear sites bookmarked and check them all when looking at a big purchase. I have my favorites sites like Mountain Gear, Spadout and I have come to use Backcountry’s Steep continue reading

 Musings

What’s in Your Pack? 14ers

 2 Responses »
Nov 042009
 
What's in Your Pack? 14ers

Ever look at another climber’s pack and wonder? Come on admit it, I know you do! Packs come in all sizes and shapes. Some are lean and mean while others are fat and dumpy. However most of this is not due to the pack; it is what’s inside that counts. This is the first in the series “What’s in Your Pack?” where I will look at gear from simple day hikes to overnight trips to treks to Everest Base Camp then climbs to 8000m and above. But first, lets take a look at packing for a simple day climb of continue reading

 Colorado 14ers
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