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There are 58 Colorado peaks over 14,000′, so to pick one as your favorite is tough. I have climbed 51 of them so this may be a tad premature but here I go anyway.

For years, I told anyone who asked that Longs Peak was my favorite. It had everything a mountain could offer: a variety of routes from easy to impossible, unpredictable weather, and amazing views. Longs will always be close to the top of my list.

But in the late summer of 2009, another climb took the top spot – Capital Peak in the Elk Range of central Colorado near the Aspen.

As I wrote in this trip report

The most talked about feature of climbing Capital is the Knife Edge section of the summit ridge. This is a short section, maybe 100′, with steep drop-offs on both sides. A fall would most likely be fatal. On 14ers.com, the route description simply says “It’s a short, exposed section on the ridge that requires concentration and solid nerves. If you are spooked by exposure, this area may twist you in knots. Scramble along the crest or walk along the left side while holding onto the ridge. Experienced climbers can carefully walk across most of the Knife Edge.”

To climb Capital, first it is quite a hike just to get to the base of the mountain. But is one of those classic Colorado back country environments complete with running streams, open grassy areas all surrounded by high snow covered mountain peaks.

The climb itself starts simple with a 1000′ easy walk-up to a beautiful saddle. Then is gets a bit ugly as you cross a never-ending section of talus. And then it gets interesting.

Once atop a feature aptly named K2, you see the final ridge to the summit. Many people turn back here.

The infamous knife edge section was as advertised – sharp and filled with exposure. A slip would be fatal.

As I found myself solo on the knife-edge, it did cross my mind – what if I slipped? But I went on.

The final climb to the summit was fantastic. By taking a more direct route, I was using all my rock skills in high class 4/low class 5 features and it was a blast. Climbing at 14,000′ with a few thousand of air under my feet.

I know it sounds crazy if you are not into this stuff; but if you are, then add Capital to your list. But go on a near perfect day. As crazy as I am, I would not want to climb it in rain or ice

Please read my complete trip report for the full description and the video of me crossing the knife-edge!

Climb On!

Alan

I love to climb or more specifically to be out in nature. This past week, I took a long climb to almost 13,000′ on Longs Peak in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. It was a rare winter day with mild temps in the high teens and virtually no wind – unheard of for Longs in January.

The scenery of the snow covered Continental Divide was stunning as was the lightly peppered Diamond on Longs’ East Face. I was completely alone for the majority of the day. I had started just before sunrise and enjoyed watching the sun light up the Colorado eastern plains.

But it was a few minutes of a six hour day that sticks in my memory. Continue reading »

If you have explored my site, you know that Longs Peak is one of my favorite climbs. In under two hours, I can be on the trail at 9400′ and reach the summit at 14,256′ in a few hours on a good day.

It has all types of routes from simple walkups to world-class technical trad climbing.  And it offers the best and worst in mountaineering weather all year-round thus making for excellent training for Denali, Aconcagua or serious Himalayan climbs.

Of all my pages on 14ers, I have more about Longs than any other since have climbed on it well over 60 times and summited it 16.

So when I saw this video of professional climber Steph Davis climbing the Diamond, it captured what I love most about Longs and climbing in general. I hope you enjoy her video as much as I did.

Climb On!

Alan