The Road Back to Mt. Everesttag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/live/12007-10-16T10:03:32ZMovable Type Publishing Platform 4.01Back Home!tag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.852007-10-16T09:19:09Z2007-10-16T10:03:32ZWell, another Himalayan expedition is complete. I was able to change my return flights and got back home a few days ago. The rest of the team should be in transit today or tomorrow from Kathmandu. I have posted on my site many of the almost 2000 pictures I took. They are organized by: Climbing Shisha Pangma Faces of Tibet (my favorite) Scenes of Tibet (a close second) Lhasa My Teammates and I You can navigate to them via this link or the images below. Next will be a trip recap where I will review the entire expedition in some...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
Faces of Tibet (my favorite)
Scenes of Tibet (a close second)
LhasaMy Teammates and I
You can navigate to them via this link or the images below. Next will be a trip recap where I will review the entire expedition in some detail. I hope to get it written this week.
Climbing Shisha Pangma]]>
Faces of TibetScenes of TibetLhasaMy Teammates and I
Remember that the fund raising for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund is not over and you can still give. We are looking for some donations from companies. Many will match your personal gift or make a donation outright. Please contact your HR department.
Thanks to those who donated during the Shisha climb - it meant more than you will ever know.
Climb On!
Alan]]>
The Expedition is overtag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.842007-10-05T19:33:36Z2007-10-05T19:35:23ZThe weather has turned bad once again. The team at the highest camp was prepared to leave early this morning, Friday October 5th, but never left camp as clouds shrouded the ridge to the Central Summit. They are returning to ABC. Several others at camp 1 are now preparing to return to ABC. Some may leave early and return to Kathmandu but most will be back there around October 15. To my knowledge no one summitted Shisha Pangma this season. It has been one of the snowiest in recent memory. There is one climber on another team still on the...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
The weather has turned bad once again. The team at the highest camp was prepared to leave early this morning, Friday October 5th, but never left camp as clouds shrouded the ridge to the Central Summit. They are returning to ABC. Several others at camp 1 are now preparing to return to ABC.
Some may leave early and return to Kathmandu but most will be back there around October 15. To my knowledge no one summitted Shisha Pangma this season. It has been one of the snowiest in recent memory. There is one climber on another team still on the Hill saying he will stay until the weather improves however the forecast is for extremely high winds to start soon with no end in sight.
Everyone on our team is safe.
Thanks for everyone's support during this climb. I sincerely appreciate the donations to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund.
Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan
Summit Time!tag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.822007-10-03T03:03:15Z2007-10-03T03:04:05ZThe good thing about the weather is that it changes often. After three days of bright sun and moderate winds, our routes seem in much better shape than previously believed. On the other hand, the Spanish team targeting the Main Summit, have decided to leave all together. Our team is the last of the major expeditions here plus a few independents. We are targeting the Central Summit....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
The good thing about the weather is that it changes often. After three days of bright sun and moderate winds, our routes seem in much better shape than previously believed. On the other hand, the Spanish team targeting the Main Summit, have decided to leave all together. Our team is the last of the major expeditions here plus a few independents. We are targeting the Central Summit.
We have been hearing avalanches during the past few days and nights and have a report that the slope to C3 has avalanched so this is good news. The snow has consolidated so it should be safe. The major issue is the winds and if the forecasted light winds bring some type of moisture - this is what the Spanish forecast shows. We are hoping form no moisture (snow) and light winds but this may not develop. If it does not then we will return to ABC and the expedition will break camp from Kathmandu.
So off we go - this is the crux. I will try to send audio and simple dispatches from here on out.
What more can I say about the support I feel out there? For me, this journey is not necessarily about climbing mountains as you know. However the climbs are a critical part and important to me. This has been a great trip already so reaching the central summit is a true bonus for me. That said I, and my teammates, need your positive energy and thoughts all the way up and down. This will be tough. It will be cold, very cold, as well as dangerous in the steep parts. So I am preparing for a tough physical and mental test. But this is what alpine mountaineering is all about!
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
A Big Thank You and Choicestag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.812007-10-01T02:42:28Z2007-10-01T02:43:12ZIt is very difficult to express what I felt when I saw the email from Katie at the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. She told me that we had a record number of donations this week. I read the words and the names of some the donors: Paula, Troy, Nicki, Paul, Renee. I put the PDA down and sat crossed leg in my tent. I re-read the message. My eyes took on the thousand yard stare towards the snow covered hillsides. What is the emotion beyond appreciation? What is the feeling beyond satisfaction? How do you describe motivation and encouragement? How can...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
It is very difficult to express what I felt when I saw the email from Katie at the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. She told me that we had a record number of donations this week. I read the words and the names of some the donors: Paula, Troy, Nicki, Paul, Renee. I put the PDA down and sat crossed leg in my tent. I re-read the message. My eyes took on the thousand yard stare towards the snow covered hillsides. What is the emotion beyond appreciation? What is the feeling beyond satisfaction? How do you describe motivation and encouragement? How can two words be so insufficient? Thank You.
Our technology lives and dies by the rays of the sun. Our two large solar panels are constantly moved to give direct access to the sun but is a futile effort on snowy days. They charge two deep cell car batteries but with all the iPods, computers, satellite gear and rechargeable batteries it is a full time job to stay ahead.
But life is comfortable and choices need to be made.
Today, Sunday, the majority of the team left for a night at Depot Camp and then Camp 1. The objective is to stay active. They intend on returning to ABC on Tuesday. If a summit window appears they will return to C1 within days. Two members, James and Paul left for home. They are fine, other factors came into their decisions. A few other members will leave directly for Camp 1 tomorrow. I have given my plan a lot of thought and here is the latest.
I am staying in ABC for a few more days. I don't like the danger on the mountain. The snow has not avalanched and I don't like snow covered crevasses. I know my body well and as great as I feel, I don't want to spend precious energy going all the way to C1 only to have to return and perhaps make a quick climb back. I am staying active by climbing to just under 20,000' on nearby hills each afternoon. It is enough to get my heart going and lungs gasping so I feel i will be ready when I need to be.
So just as before, I plan to climb to Camp 1 and wait. If a window appears, I will be ready. If it does not, I will return to ABC and prepare to come home. Basically we have about a week for a good window to develop. But honestly, there is not a lot of optimism at this point. Each day we move closer to winter. The days are shorter and the sun is less intense. It is colder by the hour. However, weather is funny in that it often stops the normal parade and allows a side show to develop. Our hope is that our show will be five days of sun and calm winds. Will it happen?
So I am now a little out of step with the others. That is OK. Again, I like my plan for me. If I need to adjust, I can. But it feels safe, conservative and gives me the highest possibility of success. The rest of the team is doing well. My sincere hope is that we can all summit safely together.
Remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
Random Thoughts and a Plantag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.802007-09-29T02:12:40Z2007-09-29T02:13:38ZMy eyes lock onto my heavy boots and sharp crampons as I take another step up the steep snow slope towards camp 2 on Shisha Pangma. Then another and another. The pattern continues. My breathing is controlled yet sounds like a steam engine. My stare is unbroken. Then something changes, the snow underfoot becomes less steep, the angle lessens, I feel the relief of the mountain on my gait. I look up....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
My eyes lock onto my heavy boots and sharp crampons as I take another step up the steep snow slope towards camp 2 on Shisha Pangma. Then another and another. The pattern continues. My breathing is controlled yet sounds like a steam engine. My stare is unbroken. Then something changes, the snow underfoot becomes less steep, the angle lessens, I feel the relief of the mountain on my gait. I look up.
Remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
Resending Alan's Last Dispatch of September 25 - The Waiting Beginstag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.792007-09-26T05:15:10Z2007-09-26T05:36:16ZThere was an error in the link for Alan's latest dispatch. I have been able to go in and grab it and get it posted. You will just need to look to the right where there is a blue box called ABOUT and click on the underlined - The Waiting Begins. That should take you to Alan's latest dispatch. You can also view it by going directly to the website. ...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
There was an error in the link for Alan's latest dispatch. I have been able to go in and grab it and get it posted. You will just need to look to the right where there is a blue box called ABOUT and click on the underlined - The Waiting Begins. That should take you to Alan's latest dispatch. You can also view it by going directly to the website.
The Waiting Beginstag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.782007-09-26T02:56:41Z2007-09-26T05:00:56ZEveryone is back at Advanced Base Camp except for Jamie who wanted to stay at Camp 1 and monitor the snow conditions. Every other team has also returned to ABC. The snow and low cloud moved in on Sunday night and we have experienced light to moderate snow since then. So with our acclimatization climb complete to 7000 meters, we are ready for our summit bid but .......Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
Everyone is back at Advanced Base Camp except for Jamie who wanted to stay at Camp 1 and monitor the snow conditions. Every other team has also returned to ABC. The snow and low cloud moved in on Sunday night and we have experienced light to moderate snow since then. So with our acclimatization climb complete to 7000 meters, we are ready for our summit bid but ....
The climb to Camp 1 was straight forward but still tiring since the sun was very bright and it was difficult to stay hydrated. The slope went from gentle to about 20 degrees, nothing too bad but we climbed from 19,200ft to 21,000ft. Once we topped out onto a flat plateau there were two of our tents already set up and several others nearby for Jagged Globe. One by one we all arrived at our site and set up tents and started brewing hot drinks. The clouds moved in and it went from brutal hot to bone chilling cold in a matter of minutes.
We spent two nights at Camp 1 and them moved to a camp just below 7000 meters or 23,000ft. This climb was shorter but steeper and the sun was once again quite hot. Most everyone was tired arriving at C2 but in good spirits. The view was absolutely stunning. ShishaPangma was in clear view for the first time. I was very confused that it was still 1000m or 3000ft to the summit since it just didn't look that high. We could now see the route to Camp 3 on the ridge.
I climbed on to 7000m with a few teammates the next day and stayed behind to post an audio dispatch. The view was astounding. I looked out over the Tibetan Steps and a huge pair of lakes. Snow covered peaks surrounded me.
A French team tried three times to summit without success due to snow conditions. As we sit here in ABC, listening to the snow fall, we consider the climb ahead. The weather forecasts are coming in regularly and we are fortunate to have a lot of experience with us on ShishaPangma. Jamie has been here four times, Clive, one of my teammates, three times and Andrew Locke four times. So it becomes a matter of waiting for the right conditions to return up the mountain. Patience is required by everyone at this point.
Please remember: Memories are Eveything.
Climb On!
Alan]]>
Update from tag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.772007-09-25T12:24:25Z2007-09-25T12:44:07ZI spoke to Alan this morning (Monday) and he has asked me to post an update since he is unable to send out any dispatches. There is a problem with the communication equipment at advanced base camp and they are not sure when it will get fixed. They are unable to send or receive any emails. Alan wanted all of the family and friends of the climbers to be aware of this problem so you would not be worried when you did not hear anything. Everyone is safely back to ABC. It is snowing heavily and the temperatures have dropped....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
I spoke to Alan this morning (Monday) and he has asked me to post an update since he is unable to send out any dispatches. There is a problem with the communication equipment at advanced base camp and they are not sure when it will get fixed. They are unable to send or receive any emails. Alan wanted all of the family and friends of the climbers to be aware of this problem so you would not be worried when you did not hear anything.
Everyone is safely back to ABC. It is snowing heavily and the temperatures have dropped. This is the beginning of a planned three to four day rest period.
I will continue to post updates whenever I have any news from Alan.
To hear this Shisha Pangmatag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.762007-09-22T22:28:11Z2007-09-22T22:28:13ZTo hear this Shisha Pangma 2007 audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following me on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains.... Climb On! Alan...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
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To hear this Shisha Pangmatag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.752007-09-20T23:43:03Z2007-09-20T23:43:08ZTo hear this Shisha Pangma 2007 audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following me on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains.... Climb On! Alan...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
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Glacier Soldierstag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.742007-09-18T02:27:22Z2007-09-18T02:30:34ZThe Ravens glided over ABC using the updrafts like the experts they are. Soon there were ten or more staring down as the Sherpas spread four strings of prayer flags in each direction from the central alter. It is said that Ravens are good luck at a Puja. One by one each team member arrived as did the cooks, yak herders and any one else associated with our expedition....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
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Before the prayers began, each of us were given a silk scarf, a katja, and a small handful of rice. We placed the rice in the center of the kajta and tied a small knot around it to hold in place. Then we faced the alter or the mountain and lifted the rice to our heart and then to our forehead. There were no instructions beyond this simple physical act but each person from Westerner to Tibetan to Nepalese used the moment to go deep within.
As I lifted my scarf to my heart, I looked up at Shisha Pangma. I left my mind go free. I felt the emotions well up as I moved it to my head. It was clear why I was here.
Soon the Puja took a quick turn and as is the custom whiskey and beer were passed around by Dawa. One by one we took a capful of the local swill – just enough to keep you warm since the winds had picked up and snow had started to fall.
Some members took off an hour later to carry a load to what is called the Depot Camp at 19,200’. It is located just off the glacier and serves as a cache for our high mountain gear. I choose to stay at ABC and reflect on the day.
However today just after breakfast, I left along with six of my teammates. I had loaded my pack with all my high altitude clothes, food and sleeping bag. For whatever reason, I felt strong today and soon went at my own pace and left my teammates behind. I am not the fastest on our team but felt good today.
The route was marked with the occasional cairn and bamboo wand with a red flag. It meandered around the glacier rock and scree filled hillsides. Shisha and her neighbors were always on my left.
The lower part of the glacier was filled with ice structures called pentanentes. As gravity, sun and erosion work on the glacier they create stand alone towering giants. They seemed almost like soldiers marching in formation. To me, as I climbed higher they soon became friends who kept me company. As I got higher they got taller but their fate was sealed. It was mostly silent as I walked. But occasionally a loud womp sound came from the soldiers as they moved a slight bit forward. I paused to looked at them. I thought about how fast they were melting. I told them on behalf of all humans, we were sorry for what we were doing to their climate. They responded with an icy stare.
Several rushing streams awkwardly fell down the hillside as if to frantically try to help the glacier. I carefully crossed a ten foot stream hoping from slick rock to rock. Soon the camp came into view. It is really nothing more than a few tents pitched on rocks on a sloping hillside. This will be home tomorrow
So all is well here. The team is experiencing the normal health issues but nothing serious. It is snowing most nights and partly cloudy during the day. It is 45F right now in my tent as I type this. My health continues to be good.
From the Depot Camp, I could see the route to Camp 1 at 21,000’ It looked straight forward – whatever that means! We leave the comforts for ABC and our heated dining tent, one person tents and great food to 3 in a tent, cooking our own food and carrying heavy loads.
I will be using a PDA and a sat phone to send dispatches from the high camps so they will be slightly shorter with fewer pictures. Hang on, it is about to get interesting!
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
Advanced Base Camptag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.732007-09-16T02:32:16Z2007-09-16T02:33:17ZThe snow gently fell on my tent as I quickly crawled in after dinner. Off with the down jacket, then the fleece jacket and next the polypro top. On with the clean soft wool top. Now, off with the down pants and the trekking pants and the dusty trekking socks. On with my cherished merino wool socks I bought in New Zealand a decade ago. They are only worn on expeditions inside my sleeping bag. Now for my wool cap to keep me warm and into my down bag. Ah. In spite of the rocks under my tent, it felt...Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
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But there she was. Our goal. The clouds were swift in their mission to block a complete view but kind enough to allow a teasing shot at Camp 1 a thousand feet about us on a narrow ridge. The glacier came down as glaciers do – confident and unassuming. It covered the valley it had created and ended next to our camp site. The sounds of calving kept us company throughout the night. The lake is not that pretty. A kind of murky brown. The lake cannot help it; the glacier deposits the dirt of eons into the water.
As the snow fell harder, I fell into a deep sleep. It felt good after the long day. But this new altitude would have its revenge. I awoke with a start. Gasping for air, I recognized my condition as periodic breathing – a common condition at altitude. Nothing serious. So another round of Diamox was in order and I switched on my headlamp. But something else seemed different.
Yes, it was quiet, no bubbling stream to provide a natural white noise. It was quiet, very quiet. Then I understood. The gentle snow had turned into a heavier version and my tent was under attack. No worries. I pushed the sides out, the snow slid off and I easily won the war – this time.
I performed my midnight ceremony: Diamox, pee into the bottle and drink my juice water – a different bottle mind you! I left the zipper undone on my bag since all the excitement had generate quite a heat wave in my small home. I drifted off to sleep only to repeat the process two hours later and again near dawn.
As I heard voices, my mind came to some form of consciousness. It was 7:00 AM. It was bright. It was warm. I was at ABC on Shisha Pangma. I felt good. I slipped on my down pants and jacket and left for the dining tent. Well actually it is a tent with a blue tarp on the floor.
You see, our Yaks are quite the independent lot. The huge one carrying the dining table made an executive decision that he had had enough. With a quick rodeo move, the table went left as he went right. That was two miles down valley - a volunteer from our Sherpa core brought the table up today. Another, a female, was carrying our vegetables. The Nak apparently felt that if she could not have them then no one would and went for a swim in the river. The blue barrel had no chance against the rushing waters. Another 15 kg are on order from a nearby village.
So we are here. Life is similar to BC. We are napping, eating, chatting and trying to acclimatize at this higher altitude. Tomorrow is our Puja – the ceremony where we ask the Mountains Gods permission to climb and for safety. It will be lead by Dawa our Sidar. Then our first carry to even higher on Shisha Pangma.
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!]]>
A Look in the Eyetag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.722007-09-14T02:13:58Z2007-09-14T02:15:58ZWhat does a look in the eye mean? We have been at Base Camp for four days now and I have gotten to know the local Tibetans fairly well by now. There is the quiet yak herder who looks you in the eye hoping to sell his knife or yak collar. The young girl who is famously shy and avoids the camera. The little one who joyfully plays jump rope with us and then the others....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
What does a look in the eye mean? We have been at Base Camp for four days now and I have gotten to know the local Tibetans fairly well by now. There is the quiet yak herder who looks you in the eye hoping to sell his knife or yak collar. The young girl who is famously shy and avoids the camera. The little one who joyfully plays jump rope with us and then the others.
After a hike, a young girl followed me to the dining tent. She looked me in the eye and said nothing. No gestures. No expression. There is a sanding order not to give them anything. I glanced around to look for more eyes. I reached in my pack and took out the apple I had packed for lunch. One more glance around. I put a single finger to my lips and looked her in the eye. She acknowledged the deal with a slight smile. I turned my back and held the apple behind me. In a whoosh, the apple and my little friend were gone.
What does the old lady think when you look her in the eye? The man with broken teeth? The young girl with the easy smile? How long will their nomadic life last? When will “civilization” take their land and their way of life? Do they beg because they need or because they have been rewarded? Is our presence part of the solution or part of the problem?
Even when a deal is not sealed, I like to interact with my Tibetans. I ask him what the knife handle is made of? What is her name? How old is he? They say something to me and we both nod in agreement not sure of the question or the answer. Then we both look away at the far away snow covered mountains and stand in silence. Communication without the words. A look in the eyes. A simple smile.
What will they remember about the strange visitors? That we slipped them an apple, played a game of jump rope or cat's cradle? Or perhaps that we smiled back.
Advanced Base camp is established. The entire team moves tomorrow. Today we took a walk a quarter of the way there. It was snowing on Shisha Pangma. A small squall, nothing serious but there was a chill in the air. Or maybe it was my nervousness.
As I write this, three of my friends walk by looking at me typing on my computer. What strange people these visitors are. Yet they smile at me. Perhaps in anticipation or maybe just to say hello.
One of the mothers stands and knits a sheep wool sock for her small daughter. Her dark skin and jet back hair a sharp contrast to the bright red strings in her braided hair. As I ask her what she is knitting she points to her own socks and smiles that smile. Her eyes give away her mission. She is just stopping by to say hello.
Please remember, Memories are Everything
Climb On!]]>
Base Camp Lifetag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.712007-09-12T02:08:44Z2007-09-12T02:09:53ZIt takes a few days to really appreciate the life at Base Camp. Once you arrive, there is the buzz of meeting new people, figuring out the tent situation and of course, staring at the objective. From BC we have a clear view of Shisha Pangma....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
It takes a few days to really appreciate the life at Base Camp. Once you arrive, there is the buzz of meeting new people, figuring out the tent situation and of course, staring at the objective. From BC we have a clear view of Shisha Pangma.
This BC is a comfortable place, much nicer than other 8000m mountains I have climbed. There is grass, water and stunning views. It usually does not snow this low at this time of the year but we can see snow at our site for Advanced Base Camp (ABC) 2000' higher. The temperatures are quite mild. Most of us wear short sleeves and some wear shorts during the heat of the day. The direct sunlight is oppressive. Sunscreen, sunglasses and hats are mandatory in and out of tents. But as soon as the sun goes down the temperature drops 30 degrees, easily. Out comes the down jackets and we huddle in the dining tent. Luckily it is heated.
The night sky is beyond belief. Last night after dinner, I just stood in the middle of the field staring upwards. So many stars. So many stars. The Milky Way appeared as a dense cloud that stretched from the north horizon to the south horizon without interruption. It was a pure rainbow of stars and galaxies. One felt small looking at the vastness of deep space. Over the Himalayas into Nepal, lightening provided a constant light show.
The Steps of Tibet are borderless. From our vista today we could see lakes, mountains and flat plains reaching out in all directions. Along with three of my teammates, I climbed 1500’ to a nearby hill to accelerate our acclimization. Once on top at about 18,000’ the view became even more broad. Every direction held a surprise.
Tonight 50 yaks are scheduled to arrive. We will send the first load to ABC along with a couple of teammates who arrived a few days earlier and are well acclimatized. A few of our Sherpas will move up and establish the site with a kitchen, dining and toilet tents. The rest will follow in a few days.
I am feeling great. All my vital signs are on target and I feel like I am acclimatizing well. I am sleeping well. The team is good. We are all getting along well. The conversation flows easily. We have a broad age span from 18 to 60. We represent 5 countries.
I am running out of adjectives to describe this place. It is huge, quiet, serene, thought provoking, peaceful, endless. Something about it causes your pulse to slow and your mind to relax. The pure and absolute perfection of the landscape calls nothing into question. The moment is to be savored and buried deep into the memory.
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan
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Finally: Shisha Pangma Base Camp!!tag:https://www.alanarnette.com,2007:/dispatches/denali2007//1.702007-09-10T05:51:27Z2007-09-10T05:52:10ZWe made it! We left Shegar around nine for the last leg of our journey to BC. It was a great leg! The scenery was amazing as was the trip back in history. We left the semi reliable cell phone coverage - yes we were having cell phone coverage all the way from Lhasa - no idea what the roaming charges will be - to a land where they built 10 story signal towers out of mud and straw to stay in touch and to warn of impending attack....Alan Arnettehttps://www.alanarnette.com
We made it! We left Shegar around nine for the last leg of our journey to BC. It was a great leg! The scenery was amazing as was the trip back in history. We left the semi reliable cell phone coverage - yes we were having cell phone coverage all the way from Lhasa - no idea what the roaming charges will be - to a land where they built 10 story signal towers out of mud and straw to stay in touch and to warn of impending attack.
We passed the intersection to Mount Everest - a simple dirt road but marked with a huge sign in Chinese and Tibetan. This is the road that was marked to be paved for the 2008 Olympics but is stalled by environmental concerns. Our road went from a relatively nice, smooth paved surface free of the potholes we experienced a day ago to one of chip seal to one of simple dirt as we continued to leave civilization and enter the true land of Nomads. Yaks grazed freely along the hills and the villages were now simple in size but consistent in architecture.
Soon the snow capped Himalaya came into view. Everyone on our little bus strained to look for our goal. You could feel the energy increase. We crossed several streams, each one threatening to stall our arrival. But our skilled driver handled them with ease albeit after studying a couple for a few minutes before taking the leap.
Shisha came into view. The first view of an 8000 meter mountain is always a moment for pause. Our minds went through the gauntlet of hopes and fears. As advertised, she stood high and alone - a giant massive. Base Camp was still an hour and half away at our 30 mph rate so we settled back in our seats and the bus had the quiet hum of nervous conversation. But the sight of yak herds and an amazing Tibetan rider galloping faster than we could drive got everyone's attention and the hum turned into a roar.
And then we were there.
Climb On!
Alan]]>
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Faces of Tibet
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Scenes of Tibet
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Lhasa
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My Teammates and I
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Remember that the fund raising for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund is not over and you can still give. We are looking for some donations from companies. Many will match your personal gift or make a donation outright. Please contact your HR department.
Thanks to those who donated during the Shisha climb - it meant more than you will ever know.
Climb On!
Alan]]>
We have been hearing avalanches during the past few days and nights and have a report that the slope to C3 has avalanched so this is good news. The snow has consolidated so it should be safe. The major issue is the winds and if the forecasted light winds bring some type of moisture - this is what the Spanish forecast shows. We are hoping form no moisture (snow) and light winds but this may not develop. If it does not then we will return to ABC and the expedition will break camp from Kathmandu.
So off we go - this is the crux. I will try to send audio and simple dispatches from here on out.
What more can I say about the support I feel out there? For me, this journey is not necessarily about climbing mountains as you know. However the climbs are a critical part and important to me. This has been a great trip already so reaching the central summit is a true bonus for me. That said I, and my teammates, need your positive energy and thoughts all the way up and down. This will be tough. It will be cold, very cold, as well as dangerous in the steep parts. So I am preparing for a tough physical and mental test. But this is what alpine mountaineering is all about!
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
Remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
We spent two nights at Camp 1 and them moved to a camp just below 7000 meters or 23,000ft. This climb was shorter but steeper and the sun was once again quite hot. Most everyone was tired arriving at C2 but in good spirits. The view was absolutely stunning. ShishaPangma was in clear view for the first time. I was very confused that it was still 1000m or 3000ft to the summit since it just didn't look that high. We could now see the route to Camp 3 on the ridge.
I climbed on to 7000m with a few teammates the next day and stayed behind to post an audio dispatch. The view was astounding. I looked out over the Tibetan Steps and a huge pair of lakes. Snow covered peaks surrounded me.
A French team tried three times to summit without success due to snow conditions. As we sit here in ABC, listening to the snow fall, we consider the climb ahead. The weather forecasts are coming in regularly and we are fortunate to have a lot of experience with us on ShishaPangma. Jamie has been here four times, Clive, one of my teammates, three times and Andrew Locke four times. So it becomes a matter of waiting for the right conditions to return up the mountain. Patience is required by everyone at this point.
Please remember: Memories are Eveything.
Climb On!
Alan]]>
Before the prayers began, each of us were given a silk scarf, a katja, and a small handful of rice. We placed the rice in the center of the kajta and tied a small knot around it to hold in place. Then we faced the alter or the mountain and lifted the rice to our heart and then to our forehead. There were no instructions beyond this simple physical act but each person from Westerner to Tibetan to Nepalese used the moment to go deep within.
As I lifted my scarf to my heart, I looked up at Shisha Pangma. I left my mind go free. I felt the emotions well up as I moved it to my head. It was clear why I was here.
Soon the Puja took a quick turn and as is the custom whiskey and beer were passed around by Dawa. One by one we took a capful of the local swill – just enough to keep you warm since the winds had picked up and snow had started to fall.
Some members took off an hour later to carry a load to what is called the Depot Camp at 19,200’. It is located just off the glacier and serves as a cache for our high mountain gear. I choose to stay at ABC and reflect on the day.
However today just after breakfast, I left along with six of my teammates. I had loaded my pack with all my high altitude clothes, food and sleeping bag. For whatever reason, I felt strong today and soon went at my own pace and left my teammates behind. I am not the fastest on our team but felt good today.
The route was marked with the occasional cairn and bamboo wand with a red flag. It meandered around the glacier rock and scree filled hillsides. Shisha and her neighbors were always on my left.
The lower part of the glacier was filled with ice structures called pentanentes. As gravity, sun and erosion work on the glacier they create stand alone towering giants. They seemed almost like soldiers marching in formation. To me, as I climbed higher they soon became friends who kept me company. As I got higher they got taller but their fate was sealed. It was mostly silent as I walked. But occasionally a loud womp sound came from the soldiers as they moved a slight bit forward. I paused to looked at them. I thought about how fast they were melting. I told them on behalf of all humans, we were sorry for what we were doing to their climate. They responded with an icy stare.
Several rushing streams awkwardly fell down the hillside as if to frantically try to help the glacier. I carefully crossed a ten foot stream hoping from slick rock to rock. Soon the camp came into view. It is really nothing more than a few tents pitched on rocks on a sloping hillside. This will be home tomorrow
So all is well here. The team is experiencing the normal health issues but nothing serious. It is snowing most nights and partly cloudy during the day. It is 45F right now in my tent as I type this. My health continues to be good.
From the Depot Camp, I could see the route to Camp 1 at 21,000’ It looked straight forward – whatever that means! We leave the comforts for ABC and our heated dining tent, one person tents and great food to 3 in a tent, cooking our own food and carrying heavy loads.
I will be using a PDA and a sat phone to send dispatches from the high camps so they will be slightly shorter with fewer pictures. Hang on, it is about to get interesting!
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan]]>
As the snow fell harder, I fell into a deep sleep. It felt good after the long day. But this new altitude would have its revenge. I awoke with a start. Gasping for air, I recognized my condition as periodic breathing – a common condition at altitude. Nothing serious. So another round of Diamox was in order and I switched on my headlamp. But something else seemed different.
Yes, it was quiet, no bubbling stream to provide a natural white noise. It was quiet, very quiet. Then I understood. The gentle snow had turned into a heavier version and my tent was under attack. No worries. I pushed the sides out, the snow slid off and I easily won the war – this time.
I performed my midnight ceremony: Diamox, pee into the bottle and drink my juice water – a different bottle mind you! I left the zipper undone on my bag since all the excitement had generate quite a heat wave in my small home. I drifted off to sleep only to repeat the process two hours later and again near dawn.
As I heard voices, my mind came to some form of consciousness. It was 7:00 AM. It was bright. It was warm. I was at ABC on Shisha Pangma. I felt good. I slipped on my down pants and jacket and left for the dining tent. Well actually it is a tent with a blue tarp on the floor.
You see, our Yaks are quite the independent lot. The huge one carrying the dining table made an executive decision that he had had enough. With a quick rodeo move, the table went left as he went right. That was two miles down valley - a volunteer from our Sherpa core brought the table up today. Another, a female, was carrying our vegetables. The Nak apparently felt that if she could not have them then no one would and went for a swim in the river. The blue barrel had no chance against the rushing waters. Another 15 kg are on order from a nearby village.
So we are here. Life is similar to BC. We are napping, eating, chatting and trying to acclimatize at this higher altitude. Tomorrow is our Puja – the ceremony where we ask the Mountains Gods permission to climb and for safety. It will be lead by Dawa our Sidar. Then our first carry to even higher on Shisha Pangma.
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!]]>
After a hike, a young girl followed me to the dining tent. She looked me in the eye and said nothing. No gestures. No expression. There is a sanding order not to give them anything. I glanced around to look for more eyes. I reached in my pack and took out the apple I had packed for lunch. One more glance around. I put a single finger to my lips and looked her in the eye. She acknowledged the deal with a slight smile. I turned my back and held the apple behind me. In a whoosh, the apple and my little friend were gone.
What does the old lady think when you look her in the eye? The man with broken teeth? The young girl with the easy smile? How long will their nomadic life last? When will “civilization” take their land and their way of life? Do they beg because they need or because they have been rewarded? Is our presence part of the solution or part of the problem?
Even when a deal is not sealed, I like to interact with my Tibetans. I ask him what the knife handle is made of? What is her name? How old is he? They say something to me and we both nod in agreement not sure of the question or the answer. Then we both look away at the far away snow covered mountains and stand in silence. Communication without the words. A look in the eyes. A simple smile.
What will they remember about the strange visitors? That we slipped them an apple, played a game of jump rope or cat's cradle? Or perhaps that we smiled back.
Advanced Base camp is established. The entire team moves tomorrow. Today we took a walk a quarter of the way there. It was snowing on Shisha Pangma. A small squall, nothing serious but there was a chill in the air. Or maybe it was my nervousness.
As I write this, three of my friends walk by looking at me typing on my computer. What strange people these visitors are. Yet they smile at me. Perhaps in anticipation or maybe just to say hello.
One of the mothers stands and knits a sheep wool sock for her small daughter. Her dark skin and jet back hair a sharp contrast to the bright red strings in her braided hair. As I ask her what she is knitting she points to her own socks and smiles that smile. Her eyes give away her mission. She is just stopping by to say hello.
Please remember, Memories are Everything
Climb On!]]>
Tonight 50 yaks are scheduled to arrive. We will send the first load to ABC along with a couple of teammates who arrived a few days earlier and are well acclimatized. A few of our Sherpas will move up and establish the site with a kitchen, dining and toilet tents. The rest will follow in a few days.
I am feeling great. All my vital signs are on target and I feel like I am acclimatizing well. I am sleeping well. The team is good. We are all getting along well. The conversation flows easily. We have a broad age span from 18 to 60. We represent 5 countries.
I am running out of adjectives to describe this place. It is huge, quiet, serene, thought provoking, peaceful, endless. Something about it causes your pulse to slow and your mind to relax. The pure and absolute perfection of the landscape calls nothing into question. The moment is to be savored and buried deep into the memory.
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan
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And then we were there.
Climb On!
Alan]]>