The good thing about the weather is that it changes often. After three days of bright sun and moderate winds, our routes seem in much better shape than previously believed. On the other hand, the Spanish team targeting the Main Summit, have decided to leave all together. Our team is the last of the major expeditions here plus a few independents. We are targeting the Central Summit.
The current forecast shows a period of light winds around October 7th and 8th so we are moving into position for a summit bid then. I am leaving ABC (finally) for C1 on Wednesday and will spend two nights at C1 and C2 before getting to C3. There are already three other teammates at C1 and also at C2 plus a few down here at ABC. Here are some pictures of the route:
We have been hearing avalanches during the past few days and nights and have a report that the slope to C3 has avalanched so this is good news. The snow has consolidated so it should be safe. The major issue is the winds and if the forecasted light winds bring some type of moisture - this is what the Spanish forecast shows. We are hoping form no moisture (snow) and light winds but this may not develop. If it does not then we will return to ABC and the expedition will break camp from Kathmandu.
So off we go - this is the crux. I will try to send audio and simple dispatches from here on out.
What more can I say about the support I feel out there? For me, this journey is not necessarily about climbing mountains as you know. However the climbs are a critical part and important to me. This has been a great trip already so reaching the central summit is a true bonus for me. That said I, and my teammates, need your positive energy and thoughts all the way up and down. This will be tough. It will be cold, very cold, as well as dangerous in the steep parts. So I am preparing for a tough physical and mental test. But this is what alpine mountaineering is all about!
Please remember: Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan
