Site Update Notifications and Expedition Dispatches

This is home for site notifications and dispatches from Alan's expeditions plus updates on Memories are Everything Alzheimer's fund raising activities. Alzheimer's is a devastating disease and the true cause of the disease is unknown. Researchers are making great progress but more is needed. And there is hope.

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March 2008 Archives

March 6, 2008

3 Weeks to Everest 2008!!

alan.jpgThree weeks, six hours, four minutes and … well you get the idea! I can’t believe that after a year of planning, training and dreaming it is almost time to leave for Kathmandu.

After 17 or more expeditions, I have everything I need so there will be only a few last minute purchases.

I will send another dispatch before I leave introducing my teammates.

Continue reading "3 Weeks to Everest 2008!!" »

March 11, 2008

Update on Chinese Decision to Close Everest - updated

ctmanotification.jpgEverest followers may have heard that the Chinese government notified all North side expeditions on March 10th that due to "environmental concerns and over crowding" that they are asking teams not arrive until May 10th. There were no further public statements.

Other reports say they asked the Nepalese to close the South side. publicly broke the origional story yesterday.

Continue reading "Update on Chinese Decision to Close Everest - updated" »

March 14, 2008

Nepal to Limit South Side Climbers from May 1-10

southbc.jpgOn Friday, March 14, Nepal's Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announced that all climbers on Everest's Nepal side will not be allowed to climb above Base Camp at 17,500' from May 1 through May 10. It is not clear if climbers will be allowed to go above BC prior to May 1.

While there was no mention of the limitations being related to the Chinese's more stringent limitations on the North, the connection is obvious.

This now makes a complicated situation even more complex. North side teams, including ours, have been investigating alternatives given the Chinese March 10th decision to refuse entry to all expeditions on Everest until May 10th - presumably after they carry the Olympic torch to the summit, weather permitting.

Continue reading "Nepal to Limit South Side Climbers from May 1-10" »

March 17, 2008

Cruical Week for Everest 2008

shiapangma (322).JPGThis week we will probably get a decision if our Everest climb will take place. The situation for the north side has deteriorated with the violence in Lhasa and neighboring provinces. My thoughts are with the Tibetan people. As of today, Tibet is closed to all foreigners.

While very difficult, it would not be impossible to still make a summit bid arriving at the North Base Camp after May 10th as shown by the Altitude Everest team last year. They arrived at BC around May 10th and summited on June 14th but they were very lucky with good weather in 2007. They were also very, very strong climbers and leveraged the logistics of Himex and their ropes. So while not impossible, it would be very hard for "normal" climbers like me.

As I posted last week, it is not clear if teams on the South will be allowed above Base Camp before May 10th. A decision will be made this week. The normal acclimatization schedule calls for at least one night at 7000m or Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. While there are other mountains we could acclimatization on, it makes the logistics more complex.

Continue reading "Cruical Week for Everest 2008" »

March 18, 2008

Dreaming of Ladders - Return to the South

icefallladder.jpgI will be returning to climb Mt. Everest in 2008! Barring any more surprises we will be on the South Col route, the same one I was on in 2002 and 2003.

I am extremely grateful that our expedition leaders moved swiftly when the Chinese announced restrictions on the north side and secured permits and logistics support on the south as a backup for our team. Also, our entire team including our Nepali Sherpas have agreed to make the switch thus we will be climbing together.

Continue reading "Dreaming of Ladders - Return to the South" »

March 26, 2008

The Final Leg of the Journey Begins

gear.JPGThe Road Back to Mt. Everest began over a year ago. It had two parts: raise awareness and money for Alzheimer's research and climb five mountains culminating with Mt. Everest on April and May of 2008.

How time files!

Tomorrow I get on a plane and end up in Kathmandu on Saturday.

Continue reading "The Final Leg of the Journey Begins" »

March 30, 2008


The air was surprisingly cool and fresh as I stepped out of the Boeing 777 onto the tarmac at Kathmandu. After almost two days of travel, I was here. My mind focused on seeing if my three duffels had made it across four flights, four countries and two airlines.

But a thin smile came across my face as I stepped into the airport and was greeted by a big Nepali grin. I moved quickly through customs and then downstairs. Grabbing a cart with a serious wheel malfunction, I moved near the door to the snake like carousel.

Continue reading "Kathmandu" »

About March 2008

This page contains all entries posted to in March 2008. They are listed from oldest to newest.

February 2008 is the previous archive.

April 2008 is the next archive.

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