Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp.
Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1.
Part 3 covers our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!!
That's all for now. Thanks to everyone who has been in this journey with me thus far. We are near the end. You know this is about more than climbing - you are the best - all of you.
Finally a special thank you to my top supporter, best friend and wife. I love you Cathy. I'll be home soon.
Remember Memories are Everything.
Climb On!
Alan
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The night at C3 was as expected: cold, windy and not a lot of sleep. Ryan and I shared a tent with the Al, Angus and Scott in another. Melting snow for water and rehydration was the first order of business. The snow started to fall in earnest around sunset and the temperatures dropped accordingly. But the views were astounding. It is moments like this that I remembered the most from my climbs.
As a commentary on the crowds, there are actually three Camp 3s this year. Separated by a hundred vertical feet or so, there was not enough space to carve out tent platforms for all the teams at the traditional spot. But this was not a big problem. We were in the middle level at 23,350’ only 150 feet shy of the highest camp.
The tent was pitched on uneven solid hard ice with some sharp edges. So sleeping bag placement was crucial for a decent night’s rest. Once the sun set behind Pumori around 6:00PM we settled into our bags, iPods in hand. Ryan said I had some episodes of periodic breathing which is my body is trying adjust the PH in my blood by expelling more CO2. The subconscious mechanism is to stop breathing and then to gasp for air! What a system!! The end result is that I was waking up every few minutes gasping for air. Not a good start to the night. But I got about seven hours of sleep before waking at 3:00 AM staring at the tent wall or ceiling. Not bad really.
The sun rises around 4:30 AM but did not hit our tent until 8:00ish. This made for a long cold dawn. The snow had fallen steadily throughout the night including into our tent via the vents. A light layer of frost and snow covered everything. Ryan started the stoves for the morning melt as everyone began to get dressed. The wind was blowing steadily. Not a gale but hard enough that we knew the down climb would be interesting.
Two ropes were fixed for climbing the Face, one for going up and one for going down. But the reality was that few climbers were coming with the winds so strong so it was a free for all with climbers all over the Face and all over the ropes.
As I down climbed the first pitch I had an equipment malfunction. Just as I reached the anchor, my left crampon came off my boot. The clip that adjusts to the length of your boot had come loose and my crampon was dangling by the strap on my boot. Normally this was a not a big deal but I was on a 60 degree rock hard ice slope. I made sure I was securely fixed to the line with both a carabineer and my ascender and began the task reattaching the crampon. Just about that time, my old Sherpa friend, Ang Dorge came by and gave me a hand. I found it amazing that he happened by at that time.
Our team made swift time down the face fighting both the icy slope and the sharp winds. Most of us rappelled down half the face to save time. I met many climbers back at C2 that had started up the Face but gave up in the harsh conditions.
Once at C2 we were met with strong comments of bad weather moving in. A foot of snow every day for the next four days was the rumor. And that all the Sherpas had already returned to Base Camp. We all were feeling good and decided to go back down instead of spending another night at Camp 2. So after lunch we returned to the Western Cwm.
The clouds had moved in now and visibility was less than 20 feet. Soon there was a line of 20 climbers snaking our way though normally hot Cwm. In a moment of almost déjà Vu I stepped across a small crevasse and my foot went into the dark area below the white snowy surface. Scott who was behind me noticed my invisible footprint and stepped around the crack but told me later he saw my foot print just disappear.
It was a long trip down the Icefall and I was thoroughly spent when we arrived at Base camp. It was a long day of over seven hours of climbing and almost 6,000 feet of elevation drop. However the thick air of Base Camp was welcome as were the comforts of chairs, thick sleeping mats and good food.
Now the waiting begins. Our bodies are as ready as they will be for the summit push so we are waiting for the weather to provide us 4 or 5 days of good weather to reach Camp 4 and one day of low summit winds. The traditional summit day is around May 21 so we are in perfect position. We can be ready to go up in as little as 4 days or wait longer if necessary.
I will post more of our summit bid preparations during this down time.
You know, Everest 2008 has the potential of being remembered for all the controversy. Commercial websites, climbing magazines, the general press and party conversation will take delight in discussing the villains. But for most of the climbers here it is all about the climb.
Yes April was difficult and some of the experiences would have been difficult in the best of times. There were more rumors up here than on a year of The View. However there are hundreds of climbers from around the world here for many reasons but the common bond is to try to climb the highest mountain in the world.
This focus is not an abdication of philosophies or beliefs. It is the agenda of the moment. We are here to climb. We are the athletes of Everest for 2008. We are trying to be safe and to return home to our friends and families with endless stories and memories.
Today the rumors consist of weather windows and snow conditions. Who will be the first to summit? What team will fix the summit ropes? Will the crowds be a problem above the South Col? These are the questions on our minds.
There is a time and place to discuss the other events of Everest 2008 but for now thousands of friends and families care only about the safe return of their climber. For their stories of sleepless nights, icy slopes and summit views. These are stories of individuals. These are real people turning their dreams into memories.
Let the climbing take the center stage. Send your climber your best thoughts. Put aside all the rest. It is time to climb.
Remember, Memories are Everything.
Climb On!
Alan
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Camp 1’s location is slightly south from previous years due to an avalanche off Everest’s West shoulder two years ago. Large rocks are still on the Western Cwm serving as a stark reminder of what can happen. Our first night at Camp 1 was difficult. The wind gusted to over 50 mph and was blowing the tents all around. At times we could feel the floor of the tent rise up. Al and I got through the night and were ready for the calm of dawn.
Speaking of avalanches, the entire area is alive with movement. There is a snow or rock avalanche every few hours around BC and there have been several notable avalanches on the Icefall route. Mostly we feel the air blast and are not in any danger but it makes you pay attention nonetheless.
The trip from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was easier than I remembered. The temperatures were moderate and we made it in less than two hours. Camp 2 is still on a rocky section nestled next to the West Shoulder of Everest. The wind sounds like a freight train passing by as it rips through the jagged ridge of the South Summit. It never stops.
BC and C2 are mostly on rock than on ice this year. The Khumbu Glacier seems more broken up and is rippled like a bad carpet. Tents are constantly being adjusted since the ice is melting thus exposing sharp rocks which are perfectly positioned to poke us in the back in the middle of the night.
Our next climb is to the uncomfortable Camp 3 at 23,500’ on the Lhotse face. This stop will complete our acclimatization process and we will be ready to go for the summit as soon as a weather window materializes. It is interesting that the Sherpas estimate that only half the climbers will do this night at C3. I can understand since it takes a lot out of you to climb to the 7000m camp but the upside it the body creates more red blood cells and is less dependent on supplemental oxygen should a problem develop on the summit bid. Anyway neither is right or wrong just a different approach to climbing Everest.
I am in the best health I have ever been in on an 8000m climb. Maybe all that training has paid off! I feel strong with no cough or those little annoying health issues. My mind is focused and positive. A look around at Nuptse, The Icefall, Pumori or Everest itself brings me back to reason I am here. While my passion is alpine mountaineering and I am in my element way up here, this is about more than climbing.
Once again I will ask for you to consider giving a donation to The Cure Alzheimer’s Fund – that is why I am here. I am very short of my goal and need your help. Everest is the last climb on this journey and there are only a few weeks left. You can always give later but it would be nice to finish with a bang.
Remember, Memories are Everything
Climb On!
Alan
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