<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">
   <title>Climbing@alanarnette.com</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/" />
   <link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/atom.xml" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2009:/dispatches/live/1</id>
   <updated>2009-08-26T15:30:52Z</updated>
   
   <generator uri="http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/">Movable Type Pro 4.31-en</generator>


<entry>
   <title>Update on my Mom</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2009/08/update_on_my_mom.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2009:/dispatches/live//1.190</id>
   
   <published>2009-08-25T19:46:39Z</published>
   <updated>2009-08-26T15:30:52Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Ida Arnette passed away from Alzheimer&apos;s disease on August 16, 2009. She struggled for over 8 years and was under hospice care at the end. We celebrated her life with friends and family this past weekend. While it was expected, it is both a time of deep sadness for us and relief for her. She had lost her identity and independence towards the end. Over 5 million people have it today and it can hit anyone at any age - it is not just a disease of the elderly. There is no cure for Alzheimer&apos;s and every 70 seconds a...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/stories/idaarnette.php">Ida Arnette</a> passed away from Alzheimer's disease on August 16, 2009. She struggled for over 8 years and was under hospice care at the end. We celebrated her life with friends and family this past weekend.

While it was expected, it is both a time of deep sadness for us and relief for her. She had lost her identity and independence towards the end.

Over 5 million people have it today and it can hit anyone at any age - it is not just a disease of the elderly. There is no cure for Alzheimer's and every 70 seconds a new case is diagnosed.

Please join me in raising money to have a world without Alzheimer's through joining <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alzheimer/memories7summits.php">Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer's</a> where we will raise $1M or please make a <a href="https://www.alzco.org/ssl/donate_summits.asp">donation </a>today.

]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits to start with Aconcagua in 2010</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2009/08/memories_are_everything_the_7_summits_to_start_wit.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2009:/dispatches/live//1.189</id>
   
   <published>2009-08-12T19:48:53Z</published>
   <updated>2009-08-12T21:40:11Z</updated>
   
   <summary>I am pleased to announce new partners for Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits where we are raising $1M for Alzheimer&apos;s care support and research in partnership with the Alzheimer&apos;s Association. International Mountain Guides (IMG) will lead the climbs and Outside Online will report on the climbs thus increasing the awareness and opportunity for fund raising. The first climb will be on the highest mountain in South America, Aconcagua at 22,841 feet or 6962 meters from January 31 to February 21, 2010. Please continue reading for the details or visit this link for complete details....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[I am pleased to announce new partners for Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits where we are raising $1M for Alzheimer's care support and research in partnership with the Alzheimer's Association.

International Mountain Guides (IMG) will lead the climbs and Outside Online will report on the climbs thus increasing the awareness and opportunity for fund raising.

The first climb will be on the highest mountain in South America, Aconcagua at 22,841 feet or 6962 meters from January 31 to February 21, 2010. Please continue reading for the details or visit this <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alzheimer/memories7summits.php">link</a> for complete details.

]]>
      <![CDATA[<strong><big>Overview</big></strong>
Today over 5.3 Americans and millions more worldwide, are living with Alzheimer's disease. Alzheimer's destroys brain cells, causing problems with memory, thinking and behavior severe enough to affect work, lifelong hobbies or social life. Alzheimer's gets worse over time, and it is fatal. Today it is the seventh-leading cause of death in the United States.

I know this personally because my mother, Ida, is in the final stages, and I have already lost two aunts to Alzheimer's. But there is hope to find a cure through research and an opportunity help those who have it today and their families. That is why, with your help, we are raising $1M to advance Alzheimer's care, support, research and awareness.

We will climb the 7 Summits in 2010 and 2011 and conduct fund raising events before, during and after each expedition. Our partners are the Alzheimer's Association and International Mountain Guides plus Outside Online who will be following the journey with updates sent directly from the climbs. You are invited to join on a climb or a trek, help with a fund raising event or make a donation today. Together we can make a world without Alzheimer's.

<big><strong>Fundraising</strong></big>

Our goal is to raise $1 million dollars as people follow the climbs through Web sites as well as through the events hosted at major cities around the world during the climbs.

When you join an expedition you will be invited to be part of an unprecedented effort to raise the $1M though your efforts with local fundraising events before and after their climb in conjunction with your local Alzheimer's Association chapter. Also prior to each climb, I will conduct a local fundraising event that will be held in a city near the expedition's departure point making this a true global event that you can join.

<strong><big>International Mountain Guides</big></strong>

International Mountain Guides directors Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Eric Simonson and Paul Baugher organize and lead climbing, trekking and mountaineering expeditions around the world, from the classic climbs of the Alps and Andes to the 8,000m peaks of the Himalayas.

They are one of the most respected and active guiding companies in the world. Since 1986 they have conducted hundreds of expeditions to destinations around the globe. IMG was selected as one of the top 5 adventure tour operators by National Geographic Adventure Magazine in 2009. I climbed Cho Oyu with them and have known Eric Simonson for years. I choose IMG based on their long history of safely and successfully guiding climbers of all experience levels to the summit and back home safely.

If we can fill each climb, we can ensure a special and unique experience that will maximize the fundraising efforts &#8212; so please tell your friends.

<strong><big>The Climbs and Treks</big></strong>

Each expedition will be professionally lead by an IMG Guide who has years of experience climbing these mountains. IMG has consistently and safely put climbers on the summits of all theses mountains including Aconcagua for over 20 years, Mt. Vinson in Antarctica since 1988, and of course they are a leading expedition company to Everest, year in, year out with over 200 summits since 1990.

I know some of you may not be prepared for the rigors of high altitude mountaineering so please consider joining us on a trek such as to Everest Base Camp. Also look at the Kilimanjaro climb. It is not a technical climb but offers the challenges of a world-class expedition.

The current schedule and estimated prices for the 7 Summits:

    * <strong>Aconcagua, Argentina</strong> - 22,841&#8217;/6962m
      • January 31- February 21, 2010; $3,900
    * <strong>Elbrus, Russia</strong> - 18,481&#8217;/5633m
     • August, 2010; $4,600
    * <strong>Kilimanjaro, Africa</strong> - 19,340&#8217;/5896m
      • July 11-25, 2010; $4,025
    * <strong>Vinson, Antarctica </strong>- 16,067&#8217;/4897m
      • November 24-December 12, 2010; $33,200
    * <strong>Everest, Nepal</strong> - 29,035&#8217;/8850m
      • April/May, 2011; $40,000
      • Trek to Everest base camp; $4,000
    * <strong>Denali, Alaska </strong>- 20,320&#8217;/6194m
      • July, 2011; $6,000
    * <strong>Carstensz Pyramid, New Guinea </strong>- 16,023&#8217;/4884m
      • TBD 2011
    * <strong>Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia </strong>- 7,310&#8217;/2228m
      • TBD 2011

You can read a brief overview of each mountain on my <a href="http://alanarnette.com/alan/7summits.php">7 Summits page </a>or the <a href="http://www.mountainguides.com/seven-summits.shtml">IMG </a>site. 

<strong><big>Please Make a Donation Today</big></strong>

You do not have to wait for the climbs to make a donation. All donations go to the Alzheimer's Association and none to my climbing so please make a donation today.
<a href="https://www.alzco.org/ssl/donate_summits.asp">
Please Donate Today</a>

<strong><big>Join A Climb</big></strong>

This is going to happen, and I want you to be part of it. I hope you can join at least one climb or tell your friends who may be looking at a climb to look into this opportunity.

Contact Alan or IMG immediately to get a spot on these expeditions. Space is always limited so please do not delay.

While climbing is the activity, fundraising is the goal. This is about the cause and not about the climb, however, the climb will help the cause and be a great adventure that I would love to share with you.

<a href="http://www.alz.org/co/in_my_community_16787.asp">Join a Climb</a>

<strong><big>Sponsorship Opportunities</big></strong>
We are still seeking corporate sponsors to join the project. Please have them contact <a href="mailto:climbing@alanarnette.com">Alan</a> for the proposal package

<strong><big>More Information</big></strong>
Please visit any of these sites for more information on Memories are Everything:

<a href="http://www.alz.org/co/in_my_community_16787.asp">Alzheimer's Association</a>
<a href="http://www.mountainguides.com/memories_are_everything.shtml">International Mountain Guides</a>
<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alzheimer/memories7summits.php">alanarnette.com</a>

Climb On!

Alan
]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Update on Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer&apos;s</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2009/07/update_on_memories_are_everything_the_7_summits_fo.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2009:/dispatches/live//1.188</id>
   
   <published>2009-07-24T19:01:37Z</published>
   <updated>2009-07-24T20:22:54Z</updated>
   
   <summary>As summer moves on, I wanted to provide a brief update about Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer&apos;s. After working for almost a year to launch the journey, we are getting there but still have some significant milestones remaining. First the progress....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      As summer moves on, I wanted to provide a brief update about Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer&apos;s. After working for almost a year to launch the journey, we are getting there but still have some significant milestones remaining. First the progress.
      <![CDATA[
<strong>New Partners</strong>
 
The Alzheimer's Association is fully engaged in the project and will be helping with the logistics of the US fund-raising events. Next, Outside Magazine Online will follow the climbs thus increasing the project's visibility and the opportunity for raising awareness and donations. Also, we have an agreement with a major guiding company to manage the logistics of all 7 climbs. The details will be announced as soon as the final piece falls into place - which is securing the remaining financial sponsorship.

<strong>Sponsorship</strong>
 
I have personally contacted many, many companies this year and with the tough economy, you can understand the rejection. I am starting to feel like I am back in High School ::)) seriously; there is not a lot of extra money for philanthropy these days even though the largest expense will not occur for another 9-12 months. There are still a few pending opportunities; however if you know of any company that would be interested in being part of this, please contact me. The business case is solid and yields a positive ROI for the investment.
 
However, as I have said from the start, this is about Alzheimer's, not climbing and to do it right, it takes some funding.

<strong>Join a Climb</strong>
 
I want to get you thinking about becoming part of this by joining a climb. Kilimanjaro in mid 2010 is probably the climb most accessible to many people since it is non-technical and really a high walk to 19,339. Plus we go on a safari afterwards. So fun for the entire family! Denali in 2011 is another option.

And I want to extend an invitation for all the climbs to qualified climbers including joining me on climbing Everest in 2011 or trekking to the base camp in Nepal. It would be excellent training to come along of some of the other climbs before Everest. 

We will also be looking for help with the fund-raising events outside of the US in Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe and South America. As always, contact me for details.

So until we start climbing remember you can always make a donation to the Alzheimer&#8217;s Association in any amount. Also join or start your own team for a Memory Walk in your community. Details at <a href="http://www.alz.org">www.alz.org</a>

<strong>Personal Update</strong>

My mom continues to decline. She now has trouble feeding herself and other daily activities. She no longer recognizes or remembers anyone and she has significant trouble forming words and creating sentences. Her mind continues to be devastated by this disease. Not only is her memory now gone but almost all her identity. 

That said, I can still get her to laugh a little with a small joke and even over the phone, I can see her smile. So she will always be in there somewhere.

I continue to climb my Colorado 14ers with 4 new summits this summer. I especially enjoyed the relatively simple walk-up San Luis Peak in central Colorado. The approach follows miles of beaver dams up and into a beautiful alpine basin - Colorado at the finest. Also nice was the class 3+ climb to Wilson Peak which was another fun climb with a bit of serious rock on the top. You read the trip reports on my <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com">site</a>.
 
So, we are making progress on raising $1M for Alzheimer's but have a ways to go. As always, your continued support is sincerely appreciated.

Climb On!
Alan
]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>A Spring Update: Everest, Alzheimer&apos;s, The Big Project</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2009/04/a_spring_update_everest_alzheimers_the_big_project.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2009:/dispatches/live//1.150</id>
   
   <published>2009-04-04T22:00:00Z</published>
   <updated>2009-04-04T22:22:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>As spring touches many parts of the northern hemisphere it is still winter here in Colorado albeit with 70 degree highs this week! But one thing is constant around the globe: Everest climbers are already in Kathmandu for the 2009 spring season. As has become my tradition, I am covering all the action on my site. I also want to update you on my Big Project I mentioned in the previous update....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      As spring touches many parts of the northern hemisphere it is still winter here in Colorado albeit with 70 degree highs this week! But one thing is constant around the globe: Everest climbers are already in Kathmandu for the 2009 spring season. As has become my tradition, I am covering all the action on my site. I also want to update you on my Big Project I mentioned in the previous update.
      <![CDATA[<strong>Everest 2009 Coverage</strong>
Over the past few months, I have posted <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/everest2009.php">interviews </a>with climbers from Germany, U.K, France, U.S. and more. I have had the honor of interviewing people who make a big difference on Everest such as Dawa Steven Sherpa of Asian Trekking and his efforts to clean up the mountain with his EcoEverest expedition. Also I interviewed Luanne Freer of Everest+ER - the hospital that provides care for Nepalese and climbers during each season since 2002.  Also generous with their time are Russell Brice of Himalayan Experience and Eric Simonson of IMG - two of the biggest names in the Everest guiding community. There has been a great reaction to these interviews by my readers so I invite you to read them. The daily play by play of Everest action has already started as the teams are now reaching base camp.
<strong>
Memories Are Everything: The 7 Summits</strong>
As I mentioned in my last update, I am working on a big project for 2010 and beyond. I am extremely excited that the <a href="http://www.alz.org/index.asp" target="_blank">Alzheimer's Association </a>has agreed to join me on the project. They are the leading voluntary health organization in Alzheimer care, support and research and the largest nonprofit dedicated to Alzheimer's issues. If you have friends or family with Alzheimer's and are looking for assistance, please visit their site or call their 24 hour helpline. They are amazing people with outstanding resources and talents.

The project is an ambitious one that builds on the success of The Road Back to Mt. Everest in 2007/8.  My objective is to raise $1 million dollars for Alzheimer&#8217;s research through a series of global fund raising events. I am calling it Memories Are Everything: The 7 Summits.

The events will emphasize the connection between a healthy body and mind. There is a direct connection between staying healthy and warding off Alzheimer&#8217;s and other dementia. I will partner with local organizations on each continent for presentations, fund raisers and a local physical event such as a hike or climb of a local hill. The largest event will be an attempt of the highest mountain on that continent - the 7 Summits. Other climbers will join me however the project&#8217;s priority is to raise research money for Alzheimer&#8217;s.

As you can see, this is a huge endeavor that will require extensive logistics and help from organizations around the world. Alzheimer&#8217;s does not know country boarders or politics. It affects everyone without selection. As the world ages, without a solution, this problem will impact families of every country - large and small, rich and poor - regardless of their education or medical services.

Progress is being made and there is hope. Recently I met with a university professor who has shown some amazing progress on treating Alzheimer&#8217;s with a very innovative approach. However the statistics are startling. The California Alzheimer&#8217;s Association just reported that the number of Californians with Alzheimer's disease will nearly double to 1.1 million by 2030, contributing to a jump in treatment costs from $50.5 billion to $98.8 billion. Also that Californians ages 55 and older have a one in eight lifetime risk of developing the disease.

<strong>How You Can Help</strong>
If you are interested in participating in Memories Are Everything: The 7 Summits, please <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/contact.htm">contact </a>me. Specifically we need experienced organizations for managing the local events, sponsors for the 7 Summits and specialists in global public relations and fund raising. The relative costs are low yet the payoff is huge.

<strong>My Mom</strong>
Many readers ask me how my mom is doing. She continues to decline and is now in the late stages of Alzheimer's. Recently she started suffering from hallucinations. She seems to recognize our voices over the phone but does not know who we are even in person, this was not unexpected. Physically she remains in good health but is growing frailer each month.

Thanks everyone for signing up for these updates. I only send one every few months and appreciate any comments or feedback.

Remember: Memories Are Everything

Climb On!

Alan
]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>A Look Back at 2008 and Ahead</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/12/a_look_back_at_2008_and_ahead.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.145</id>
   
   <published>2008-12-27T17:20:56Z</published>
   <updated>2008-12-27T21:29:07Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Happy New Year! With the holidays upon us, I wanted to send out a greeting along with an Alzheimer&apos;s update and a look back at an exciting year in climbing. Alzheimer&apos;s Disease - Progress but More Needed 2008 was the culmination for my Memories are Everything: The Road Back to Mount Everest project. This year long journey included 5 climbs ending with another attempt on Everest - all to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer&apos;s research. While I didn&apos;t summit Everest, we did raise over $25,000 for the Cure Alzheimer&apos;s Fund (CAF) - and that I am more proud of...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[Happy New Year! 

With the holidays upon us, I wanted to send out a greeting along with an Alzheimer's update and a look back at an exciting year in climbing. 

<strong>Alzheimer's Disease - Progress but More Needed </strong>

2008 was the culmination for my <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/theroadbacktoeverest.php" target="blank">Memories are Everything: The Road Back to Mount Everest</a> project. This year long journey included 5 climbs ending with another attempt on Everest - all to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer's research. While I didn't summit Everest, we did raise over $25,000 for the <a href="http://www.curealzfund.org/ "target="blank">Cure Alzheimer's Fund</a> (CAF) - and that I am more proud of than an Everest summit.]]>
      <![CDATA[
My Mom, who has Alzheimer's, continues to decline. Just today I spoke with her and she didn't remember my visit just a few weeks ago. She didn't know that my Brother was there right now. She didn't remember that her sister, Christine, had died of Alzheimer's earlier this year. At one point in the conversation she asked, "How many people are in your family?" It is heartbreaking to watch her just slip away - not knowing what is happening to her - not knowing that she will probably die a horrible death when her brain 'forgets' how to swallow.

I am very frustrated that I cannot help her. There is no cure for Alzheimer's. There is no way to tell if you have it until it is too late. This is why the research is so critical. However, important progress was made this year. A CAF funded <a href="http://www.curealzfund.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=199&Itemid=67" target="blank">project </a>identified four genes that may significantly increase the risk of the most common form of late-onset Alzheimer’s. But the epidemic continues to moves quickly - a new case is diagnosed every 71 seconds and with the baby-boomer generation aging, the number of victims will become staggering as will the costs.

So I continue to <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/speaking/speaking.php" Target="blank">speak </a>to anyone who will listen to this story - schools, foundations, companies. I recently entered into a discussion with the <a href="http://www.alz.org/index.asp" target="blank">Alzheimer's Association</a>, the largest non-profit for Alzheimer's. In addition to funding research they also serve as an invaluable resource for families and caregivers on education and assistance to help deal with their Alzheimer's challenges. Like the CAF, it is a wonderful organization that I hope to work closer with over the years. 
<strong>
Climbing - Climb On! </strong>

I had a great year in the mountains in 2008. In January, I climbed <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/aconcagua2008.htm" target="blank">Aconcagua </a>(Argentina) and <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/climbs/orizaba.php" target="blank">Orizaba </a>(Mexico) in preparation for my <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/everest2008.php" target="blank">Everest </a>expedition in April and May. As many of you know, I did not summit for the third time but found a sense of satisfaction (and disappointment) at 27,500' (8200m) in that I did my absolute best. As looked over the highest peaks of the world that night of May 21st, I knew the reason for my climb was not to stand on the summit but for a higher purpose - and I had achieved that goal. 

Once I returned home and rested up, I spent the rest of the summer climbing my Colorado 14ers with my friends and knocked off another eleven peaks making my total 40 of the 56. However to be honest, while I love my 14ers, I still hear the call of the big Hills :) 

<strong>Tragedy on K2</strong>

Climbing is a complicated endeavor. When you summit, you think about the next peak. And if you don't you sometimes think about retuning. And for some climbers, it seems this conundrum does not end until the mountain takes your life. I lost a good friend, <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/stories/gerardmcdonnell.php" target="blank">Gerard McDonnell</a>, to K2 in July. Along with 10 other climbers, he died on the second highest mountain. The details are still unfolding but it is known that Ger was killed by an avalanche after summitting. He was the first Irishman to summit K2. He spent his last breaths trying to help three Koreans tangled in the fixed lines at 8200 meters - a true hero. 

<strong>2009 - Big Plans in the Making </strong>

I have big plans for this next year. I am looking at another big project to raise money for Alzheimer's. However the scale of this project is quite large and I need significant assistance to pull it off. So I will spend 2009 seeking out researchers, foundations, companies and anyone who will be receptive to try to launch the project in 2010. I hope to announce more details in January or February along with an invitation for anyone to join me. If you are interested in an early preview or want to help, please <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/contact.htm" target="blank">contact </a>me.

OK, that's about it. 2008 has been one for the record books in many ways - the economy, the election, research breakthroughs, my own climbs and more. Yes, not every goal was achieved but so such progress was made that 2008 has to be considered a successful year. And I am optimistic that 2009 will be even better.

I will continue to keep this website current including my coverage of the <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/everest2009.php" target="blank">2009 Everest </a>climbing season and send the occasional update throughout the year. And as always, send me note and let me know what you think or if you have any questions or comments. I enjoy hearing from everyone. 

Please don't forget that you can always make a donation to Alzheimer's research either to the Cure Alzheimer's Fund or the Alzheimer's Association. Any amount is sincerely appreciated.

Please remember: Memories are Everything.

Climb On!

Alan]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Climbing News plus New Climbing Picture Galleries</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/09/climbing_season_news_plus_new_climbing_picture_gal.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.144</id>
   
   <published>2008-09-18T23:04:58Z</published>
   <updated>2008-09-18T23:30:32Z</updated>
   
   <summary>With summer winding down, I thought it was time for an update on the climbing season, my recent climbs and photography plus an exciting opportunity occurring this Sunday. Fall Himalaya Season September brings the Himalaya climbing season back into focus with expeditions to Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma and more big Hills. But the red tape now required to climb in Tibet has caused many companies to stay in Nepal on mountains such as Manaslu and Ama Dablam. Teams have been surprised by new permit requirements, staffing requirements and travel restrictions to enter Tibet. All this resulted in just a few...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[With summer winding down, I thought it was time for an update on the climbing season, my recent climbs and photography plus an exciting opportunity occurring this Sunday.

<u><strong>Fall Himalaya Season</strong></u>

September brings the Himalaya climbing season back into focus with expeditions to Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma and more big Hills. But the red tape now required to climb in Tibet has caused many companies to stay in Nepal on mountains such as Manaslu and Ama Dablam. Teams have been surprised by new permit requirements, staffing requirements and travel restrictions to enter Tibet. All this resulted in just a few western teams on Cho Oyu and none on Shisha Pangma (yet) this year. Last year Cho saw over 20 expeditions and hundreds of climbers while I was over on a fairly crowded Shisha Pangma.]]>
      <![CDATA[<u><strong>Olympic Torch on Everest Revisited</strong></u>

The Beijing Olympics came and went without any mention of the Olympic torch summit on Everest back in May. I found this surprising given all the problems it created for Everest climbers. It will be interesting to see how Everest shapes up next spring. Word has it the Chinese will close it completely or severely limit the number of north side climbers. They say it is being closed for ‘cleaning’. I am hosting a discussion of Everest 2009 on my <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=12">Climbing Forum</a> and will do my regular armchair coverage starting next year.

<u><strong>Colorado 14ers</strong></u>

Back here in Colorado, I have been climbing more of my 14ers. It has been a great summer of climbing with my regular partners Patrick and Robert. Thus far I have 11 new summits in 2008. I have now climbed 40 of the 54 official peaks. My favorites this year were the climbs of Crestone Needle and Wetterhorn Peak. All of the climbs have their own page with my trip report and pictures of the climb.

<u><strong>New Climbing Galleries</strong></u>

I have also been busy updating the pictures and videos on my website. Thus far there are new galleries for:

Everest
Cho Oyu
Shisha Pangma
Ama Dablam
Longs Peak
And a collection of my Favorite Shots

The new presentations have a nice slide show feature plus more detailed captions and descriptions. You can access all of these from my <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com">homepage</a>.

<u><strong>National Alzheimer’s Day</strong></u>

Finally I want to bring your attention to National Alzheimer’s Day this Sunday, September 21 sponsored by the <a href="http://www.alz.org" target="blank">Alzheimer’s Association</a>. They will be matching all donations up to $250,000 on a dollar for dollar basis. This is a great opportunity to make your year-end donation.

I am still climbing. In fact I will be doing some rock and snow/ice climbing over the next few days in Rocky Mountain National Park. Maybe we will get one more14er in before the heavy snows begin (we saw 2 feet one day in August in the Park!) and I still need to get my annual summit of Longs Peak completed. 

I hope your autumn goes well and are living each day to the fullest.

Climb On!

Alan
]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Climbing Videos and Alzheimer&apos;s Update</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/07/climbing_videos_and_alzheimers_update.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.143</id>
   
   <published>2008-07-26T22:39:11Z</published>
   <updated>2008-07-27T01:06:18Z</updated>
   
   <summary>I hope you are having a wonderful summer. I am all recovered and settled in after returning from Everest in late May. I have a few updates to pass on for the website as well as some news on Alzheimer&apos;s research and a great PBS show to air in August....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      I hope you are having a wonderful summer. I am all recovered and settled in after returning from Everest in late May. I have a few updates to pass on for the website as well as some news on Alzheimer&apos;s research and a great PBS show to air in August.
      <![CDATA[<u><strong>NEW VIDEOS</strong></u>
On all of my climbs, I have taken videos in addition to pictures. Now those videos are newly edited, faster to load and easier to view. They can be found on one page and include Everest, K2, Denali, Rainier and more. I'll be adding more over the summer including one for Longs Peak here in Colorado. I hope you enjoy them. Let me know!

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/video/videohome.php" target="blank">click here for the videos</a>


<u><strong>NEW CLIMBS</strong></u>
Next I have continued to climb adding 7 more Colorado 14ers this summer. I now have climbed 37 of the 54 peaks over 14,000' in my home state.

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/fourteeners.htm" target="blank">click here for trip reports and pictures</a>


<strong><u>EVEREST 2009</u></strong>

It is never too early to talk about Everest so I have started my coverage for next season with a discussion on my Climbing Forum. My goal is to make it the place for all things Everest 2009. Everyone is welcome!

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=98" target="blank">click here for Everest 2009</a>


<strong><u>ALZHEIMER'S UPDATE</u></strong>

News is mixed on research breakthrough. <a href="http://www.blog.newsweek.com/blogs/labnotes/archive/2008/07/25/alzheimer-s-have-many-grains-of-salt-ready.aspx" target="blank">Newsweek </a>published an interesting article this week describing some mixed progress on research front. It is a good short read. Also, thanks to the <a href="http://www.curealzfund.org/" target="blank">Cure Alzheimer's Fund's </a>newsletter, I learned of an upcoming PBS program entitled <a href="http://www.tpt.org/theforgetting/" target="blank">The Forgetting: A Portrait of Alzheimer's</a>. It will air on Sunday August 3, 2008. 

Finally a bill titled the <a href="http://www.govtrack.us/congress/bill.xpd?bill=s110-898" target="blank">Alzheimer’s Breakthrough Act</a> to increase research funding was introduced in Congress last year. Please <a href="https://forms.house.gov/wyr/welcome.shtml" target="blank">contact </a>your Congress Person to ask for their support. The cost is less than $1 per American in 2008. A small price to pay for more research funding.

OK, that's all for now. Thanks for all your support and interest. Remember: Memories are everything.

Climb On!

Alan

]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics - Part 4</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/06/everest_2008_mountain_of_politics_part_4.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.142</id>
   
   <published>2008-06-22T22:38:20Z</published>
   <updated>2008-06-22T22:55:55Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Well the Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything has come to an end. Thanks to your generosity, about $25,000 was donated to the Cure Alzheimer&apos;s Fund - well short of my $100,000 goal. When I started this journey in January 2007, I set two goals: raise money and awareness for Alzheimer&apos;s research and return to Everest. Now that it is over, I am pleased on both counts but hoped for more donations. There is still time. Just click on this link to make your donation online. It was an incredible year. I never in my wildest dreams thought...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[Well the Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything has come to an end. Thanks to your generosity, about $25,000 was donated to the<a href="http://www.curealzfund.org/content/view/25/17/" target="_bank"> Cure Alzheimer's Fund</a> - well short of my $100,000 goal.

When I started this journey in January 2007, I set two goals: raise money and awareness for Alzheimer's research and return to Everest. Now that it is over, I am pleased on both counts but hoped for more donations. There is still time. Just click on this <a href="http://www.curealzfund.org/content/view/25/17/">link </a>to make your donation online.

It was an incredible year. I never in my wildest dreams thought I would take on such a huge challenge of climbing five big mountains and doing fund raising at such a level. I was not alone and special thanks go to Katie Cutler of the Cure Alzheimer's Fund and to my wife, Cathy.

Progress continues to be made on Alzheimer's and in fact this week some exciting news was announced. But for many it is too late. My Mom is doing as well as can be expected. She remembers me and my brother but none of the details of our lives or her's for that fact.

I am shocked by how many people have been impacted by this horrible disease. I hope you never come in contact with it.

Again, thanks to all who donated. Especially to the students at East High School in Kentucky, Webber Jr. High, Bolz Jr. High in Colorado and Stratford in California - you guys rock!!

Now for the last part of Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics

]]>
      <![CDATA[

This is the last of a four part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest's South Side in the Spring of 2008.

<strong>Part 1</strong> looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp.

<strong>Part 2</strong> detailed the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. 

<strong>Part 3</strong> covered our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!!

<strong>Part 4</strong> is a personal account of my summit night on Everest


<div style="text-align: center;"><big><big>Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics</big></big></div>

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/downloads/Everest 2008.pdf"><big>Part 4: Summit Night</big></a>

note: the PDF document contains all the sections.

Climb On!

Alan]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics - Part 3</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/06/everest_2008_mountain_of_politics_part_3.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.141</id>
   
   <published>2008-06-14T21:06:00Z</published>
   <updated>2008-06-14T21:21:15Z</updated>
   
   <summary>This is the third of a four part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest&apos;s South Side in the Spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Part 3 covers our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!! Everest 2008: Mountain of...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[This is the third of a four part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest's South Side in the Spring of 2008.

<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/IMG_0290.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/IMG_0290.php','popup','width=3648,height=2736,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/IMG_0290-thumb-200x150.jpg" width="200" height="150" alt="IMG_0290.JPG" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;" /></a></span>

<strong>Part 1</strong> looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp.

<strong>Part 2</strong> details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. 

<strong>Part 3</strong> covers our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!!

<div style="text-align: center;"><big><big>Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics</big></big></div>

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/downloads/Everest 2008.pdf"><big>Part 3: Sniper at Camp 3</big></a>

note: the PDF document contains all the sections.

Climb On!

Alan]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics - Part 2</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/06/this_is_the_first_of.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.140</id>
   
   <published>2008-06-07T23:14:37Z</published>
   <updated>2008-06-08T02:13:21Z</updated>
   
   <summary>This is the second of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest&apos;s South Side in the Spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 2: Volunteer Prisioners at Base Camp note: the PDF document contains all the sections. Climb On! Alan...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[This is the second of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest's South Side in the Spring of 2008.

Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp.

Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. 

<div style="text-align: center;">Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics</div>

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/downloads/Everest 2008.pdf">Part 2: Volunteer Prisioners at Base Camp</a>

note: the PDF document contains all the sections.

Climb On!

Alan]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics - Part 1</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/06/everest_2008_mountain_of_politics_part_1.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.139</id>
   
   <published>2008-06-02T02:55:03Z</published>
   <updated>2008-06-07T23:20:09Z</updated>
   
   <summary>This is the first of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest&apos;s South Side in the Spring of 2008. Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 1: Rumors of Demise Climb On! Alan...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[This is the first of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest's South Side in the Spring of 2008.

<div style="text-align: center;">Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics</div>

<a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/downloads/Everest 2008.pdf">Part 1: Rumors of Demise</a>

Climb On!

Alan]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Everest 2008 Recap Comming Soon.</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/05/everest_2008_recap_comming_soon.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.138</id>
   
   <published>2008-05-30T16:42:09Z</published>
   <updated>2008-06-07T23:21:21Z</updated>
   
   <summary>I am back home and doing well. I will post a complete recap of the entire Everest 2008 experience on this site soon. Thanks for everyone&apos;s incredible support. You will receive an email notification if you signed up when it is ready. Climb On! Alan...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      I am back home and doing well. I will post a complete recap of the entire Everest 2008 experience on this site soon. Thanks for everyone&apos;s incredible support. You will receive an email notification if you signed up when it is ready.

Climb On!

Alan
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Audio Dispatch: Alan Headed Home</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/05/to_hear_this_everest_audio_3.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.137</id>
   
   <published>2008-05-23T14:08:23Z</published>
   <updated>2008-05-30T15:30:48Z</updated>
   
   <summary>To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains.... Climb On! Alan...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains....

Climb On!

Alan<br />
<iframe src="http://www.hipcast.com/playweb?audioid=Pc1a0a18ee738c749b216a7195b12eadbY11wS1REYmF9&amp;buffer=5&amp;fc=FFFFFF&amp;pc=CCFF33&amp;kc=FFCC33&amp;bc=FFFFFF&amp;brand=1&amp;player=ap21" height="20" width="246" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"> </iframe>]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Summit Update</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/05/update_on_alan.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.136</id>
   
   <published>2008-05-20T22:47:35Z</published>
   <updated>2008-05-30T15:31:29Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Unfortunately, Alan has had to turn around at the Balcony. He was extremely tired and decided to return to Camp 4. He is obviously very disappointed and wants everyone to know that he gave it his best shot. When I spoke to him he was safely back in camp. Alan wishes to thank everyone for their support and good wishes. Cathy...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      Unfortunately, Alan has had to turn around at the Balcony.  He was extremely tired and decided to return to Camp 4.  He is obviously very disappointed and wants everyone to know that he gave it his best shot.  When I spoke to him he was safely back in camp.  Alan wishes to thank everyone for their support and good wishes.

Cathy 
      
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>Audio Dispatch from South Col/Camp 4</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/2008/05/to_hear_this_everest_audio_2.php" />
   <id>tag:www.alanarnette.com,2008:/dispatches/live//1.135</id>
   
   <published>2008-05-20T11:06:30Z</published>
   <updated>2008-05-29T12:42:32Z</updated>
   
   <summary>To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains.... Climb On! Alan...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Alan Arnette</name>
      <uri>http://www.alanarnette.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.alanarnette.com/dispatches/live/">
      <![CDATA[To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains....

Climb On!

Alan<br />
<iframe src="http://www.hipcast.com/playweb?audioid=P02ca9374f1556a615476a187f0dad786Y11wS1REYmFy&amp;buffer=5&amp;fc=FFFFFF&amp;pc=CCFF33&amp;kc=FFCC33&amp;bc=FFFFFF&amp;brand=1&amp;player=ap21" height="20" width="246" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"> </iframe>]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

</feed>
