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May 102013
Everest Shadow

Everest Summit Shadow

We have the first summits of 2013 as the Sherpas have fixed the line to the summit from the South Col opening the gates to all the teams. Similarly, view the Tibetan rope fixers on the North are reported to be close.

Climbing with the Sherpas from the South Col was David Tait making his fifth Everest summit. He summited at Friday, prescription May 10.

On the South it took 13 Sherpas from 8 different teams worked together to get to the summit. I will have their names and teams later today. They are reported to be returning to Camp 2 now. The winds were reported to be moderate and temperatures cold.


According to Asian Trekking, the Sherpas included (update 2):

  • Adventure Consultants: Kami Rita Sherpa
  • Alpine Ascents: Kami Rita Sherpa and Phurba Kancha Sherpa
  • Asian Trekking: Pemba Tshering Sherpa and Sera Gyalzen Sherpa
  • Astrek: Pemba Tshering Sherpa
  • IMG: Pasang Kami (Phortse) and Tsheten Dorjee (Pangboche)
  • Himex: Gyalzen Dorji Sherpa, Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, Phurba Tashi Sherpa and Nima Tenzing Sherpa
  • also summiting: David Tait with Lhakpa Nuru

They were able to put anchors in for a second rope on the Hillary Step to avoid delays associated with this notorious section.

David Liano and Samden Bhote arrived at the South Col at 12:30 pm. Now they are resting and at 9:00 pm tonight, Friday, they are planning to leave for summit attempt.

Eric Simonson, IMG, provides the south details from today (update 1):

Ang Jangbu reports that eleven sherpas from the fixing crew reached the summit today including IMG’s Pasang Kami (Phortse) and Tsheten Dorjee (Pangboche). Congrats to all these guys for a job well done. Sounds like the winds stayed pretty low and conditions were decent. The sherpas reported knee deep snow across the Traverse to the Hillary Step, so it is good—they broke a good snow trail across there (as opposed to rock slabs).

The team was able to establish several additional rock anchors for the alternate descent route (climber’s left of the Hillary Step), so that will enable the second rope to be put in place up there. We are hoping to send the first wave of climbers up from BC in the next couple days, depending how the forecast looks.

He gave this update from Thursday when they reached the Balcony with the fixed rope:

Good news from up high. The wind dropped, and the rope-fixing team with our IMG sherpas made it to the South Col. While some of the sherpas prepared Camp 4, the others managed to get the route fixed up the Triangular Face to the Balcony. Now the fixing crew are ensconced back at Camp 4, planning to head out at 3am for continuing the fixing up the Southeast Ridge above the Balcony.

Phil Crampton, Altitude Junkies, discusses the north:

Twelve of our Sherpas made a load carry to camp three at 8,300-meters yesterday and today they will once again repeat this carry. Upon reaching high camp yesterday they watched the Tibet rope fixers close to reaching the summit. We have no official word if they fixed all the way to the summit but we hope so. If not completed yesterday, the Tibetans should finish the job today.

Now climbers from all the teams shift their focus to the weather. They are looking for a 4 to 5 day period of low winds. They will leave Base Camp, spend a night or two at ABC on the North or Camp 2 on the South, then the high camps over the next two days before their summit attempt. The return usually takes two nights.

The team from Himalayan Ascent is already at Camp 2 trying to get a jump on everyone else. The big question is if the winds allow an early attempt. Most teams are looking at mid next week when the next lull spot begins.

Congratulations to all the climbers today and of luck to those on their way.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything


  18 Responses to “Everest 2013: First Summits – Update 2”


    Alan, what’s happening on K2 right now? Doesn’t the climbing season there coincide with the one on Everest?


    Massive congrats to David and the Sherpas. What an achievement by David doing a fantastic job of raising money for and awareness of The NSPCC 🙂


    This is amazing! Ive always wanted to climb a mountain! I hope all the climbers reach the summit safely.
    How do you get all the information Alan? Are you in Nepal or are you following sites?
    Also how old are you and how old were you when you began to climb?
    And finally, How did you gather enough money to climb all the 7 summits?
    I really want to climb Kilimanjaro but my parents say Its to expensive…


    A very exciting time with much more to come during this important weekend. Congratulations to David and the Sherpas who have already made it to the summit. I sincerely hope the weather is kind to the rest of the climbers who have worked so hard to to get to the positions they are now in at the moment. Good luck to all, fare well. Cheers Kate


    the extra rope at the hillary step will literally be a life saver, reducing delays at this bottleneck, will mean quicker ascents for people further back and quicker descents…. less time high on the mountain. less risks from health issues…. it should help keep the death toll down.


    Thrilled to bits for David and his Sherpas Cheers Kate


    This is so very exciting! Congrats to David and the Sherpas!


    Thanks Alan ! Your coverage is amazing

    Peakfreaks has the summiters list :

    “11:49hrs- Phurba Tashi (20 times) now, Nawang Thenjing, Nima Tenjing, Gelgen Dorjee.

    12:14 hrs – Lhakpa Nurua, David Tait (UK)

    13:00 ish… Tashi Thsering, Rita Dorjee, Nigma Tsheri and Sonam Phinjo.”


      Phurba Tashi, been waiting for that name to pop up! Met him about five years back, glad to hear he summited safely.


    Alan, really appreciate for keeping us updated daily.
    Congratulations to David for his 5th summit.
    To all the Sherpas involved in rope fixing – a pat on their back for a job well done.


    Map from IMG on new descent route around Hillary Step established today. #Everest2013


    And I wouldn’t be surprised if he still had some surprises up his sleeve


    Tait is very impressive.


    Pretty cool huh? Look for the big push to start on May 19th. Will publish a detailed post of the factors today or tomorrow.


    Great News ,Alan ! Well done to the Sherpas and David Tate ! I hope that all teams get to summit and get down safely !


    So inspiring and exciting! whoot!


    Well done to the Sherpas and David Tait…

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