{"id":10144,"date":"2012-05-18T23:37:31","date_gmt":"2012-05-19T05:37:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=10144"},"modified":"2012-12-15T07:48:35","modified_gmt":"2012-12-15T14:48:35","slug":"everest-2012-summit-wave-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2012\/05\/18\/everest-2012-summit-wave-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2012: Summit Wave 2 – Update 1"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Everest<\/a>
Everest from Pumori<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Update 1<\/h4>\n

For those climbers starting very early and climbing fast, search<\/a> the weather has been good.<\/p>\n

Case in point is Adventure Consultant’s<\/a> Ang Dorge Sherpa who made the summit (his 16th) in 7:20 with Spaniard Joan Clofent. This is significant in that it indicated the route was in good shape, <\/a> the weather acceptable and the crowds low. As a reference, IMG’s Kami Sherpa (13 times) and I made the same climb last year in 7:40 which was unbelievable for me.<\/p>\n

In general climbers can expect to take from 7 to 12 hours to summit and about half that to return to the South Col. Most will push on to Camp 2 taking another 4 to 6 hours.<\/p>\n

Unless the climber has a personal satellite phone or their guide service is updating the website, don’t expect hear anything until they return to base camp a day later … I know forever.<\/p>\n

There are reports of increasing winds from both sides. Grant Rawlinson<\/a> with Altitude Junkies made a very brief voice dispatch from Camp 3 on the North after his summit saying the winds were strong on top. Very happy for Axe!<\/p>\n

Peak Freaks<\/a> has canceled their second wave of climbers positioned at Camp 3 on the South due to the winds and will go again on May 25th.<\/p>\n

So it sounds like the winds have picked up. It was forecasted to be around 30 mph with gust to 40, at the ragged edge of comfort but still achievable. I had 40 mph winds last year on my summit. No word on crowds but climb times “feel” slow to me so the crowds could be an issue on this wave.<\/p>\n

Remember not every team reports real time but this is that I can see of total summits or nearly there (Sherpas, guides and members). I will update the table once they post their complete info.<\/p>\n