{"id":14319,"date":"2013-04-05T09:55:32","date_gmt":"2013-04-05T15:55:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=14319"},"modified":"2019-04-06T12:28:34","modified_gmt":"2019-04-06T18:28:34","slug":"everest-2013-blessings-from-the-lama","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2013\/04\/05\/everest-2013-blessings-from-the-lama\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2013: Blessings from the Lama"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Lama<\/a>
Lama Geshi providing a blessing for the Sherpas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of the key moments for any Himalayan climber is the blessing they receive from a Lama before the climb. Many teams arrange multiple blessings: one in Kathmandu, sick and other during the trek in and the most important one at Base Camp which is also called a Puja.<\/p>\n

The one during the trek in for Everest, order Lhotse and Nuptse climbers often occurs with Lama Geshi. Regular readers of my blog know I have deep admiration for Lama Geshi and a special connection with him. He became critically ill <\/a>in 2010 but survived and is now back to his normal routine at his home in Pangboche where he lives with his wife and family. He is the highest ranking Buddhist Lama in the area.<\/p>\n

The team from Himalayan Ascent<\/a> gives us this good account of meeting with the Lama:<\/p>\n

\n

Then we hiked a leisurely 2 hr stroll transversing the valley to Lama Gheshi’s house. Pangboche is the highest permanent settlement in the Khumbu, the last established village before reaching Everest base camp. The lamas residing in the monastery here are some of the most respected in the area. Hence, we came to Lama Gheshi to receive blessings for our expedition.<\/p>\n

He conducted a special ceremony for us, which included reading some prayers to provide us safe passage and success, and then he honoured us each with a kata (white scarf) and an evil warding necklace. For our climbers and guides (who also make a point to visit a lama before beginning an expedition), this is an important ritual.<\/p>\n

Buddhist locals believe that the mountains are inhabited and controlled by mountain spirits. Sherpas are able to live in harmony amongst the biggest mountains in the world by paying respect to the mountain spirits. We follow an unwritten climbing code to climb according to local customs.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\"Lama<\/a>
Lama Geshi providing a blessing for Alan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My own experiences were similar. I was pleased to see Lama Geshi before my 2011 climb but more importantly, I along with my teammate Mirjam, returned after our summit to thank the Lama for his blessing. He was so pleased because few people ever stop by on their way out. You can read about my experience in 2011 at this link<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Memorials for the Fallen<\/h3>\n

The blog posts from climbers and trekkers remain in full swing with many commenting on the increase in altitude as they get closer to Everest.<\/p>\n

One of the more poignant moments is when they come upon the memorials for fallen climbers and Sherpas just before the village of Lobuche at Dugla Pass.<\/p>\n

\"Sherpa<\/a>
Sherpa Memorials<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A long ridge holds fifty or more chortens, or rock memorials. Each one has a name carved in the stone or perhaps a more elegant brass plaque. The vast majority are for Sherpas who have died helping westerners their goals.<\/p>\n

It is a sobering moment when you begin to understand that the Sherpas are earning a living to make a better life for their families but also that 13 Sherpas have died on Everest since 2000, the most of any single nationality.<\/p>\n

If this is your first time to trek the Khumbu, the memorial can be a startling sight.<\/p>\n

Walking along a smooth dirt trail at the bottom of a steep hill side, you hear the rushing water of a stream fed by the Khumbu Icefall to your left. Ahead you see a small teahouse with the signature blue tin roof. A steep hill lies beyond and gives you pause as you stop for a break at the teahouse.<\/p>\n

\"Scott<\/a>
Scott Fisher Memorial at Dugla Pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While sipping tea you look up the hillside tracing the dirt trail as it switchbacks up the steep hill. Refreshed you leave with purpose in your step. After 45 minutes, it seems much longer,\u00a0 you crest the hill to be greeted by a large chorten to your right. As you pan around, you see what looks like hundreds of these rock pillars.<\/p>\n

Walking over to one of the closest ones, you see a name, Scott Fischer. Now you understand. Putting your pack down you walk around, looking at each alter.<\/p>\n

Most of the names have been eroded away leaving you to only see the remains of name or a date. Some were famous – Scott Fischer, Babu Chiri. Most were not familiar. Names long since forgotten by the climbing community. Names remembered daily by their families.<\/p>\n

You stop at each one. How did they die? Weather, health, accident? There were climbers from many countries: Belirous, Japan, Austria, Canada, Nepal. Most were young. Climbers following their passion. Chasing their dream. Doing a job. The dates are old, some from the 1970s. Your head bows in respect.<\/p>\n

Leaving the area, you walk a bit slower thinking about your purpose, your home, the task ahead. It is now clearer than ever that climbing Everest is deadly serious.<\/p>\n

Updates<\/h3>\n

Dave Morano<\/a> with the Berg Adventures team is quickly becoming one of my favorites writers this year. In yesterday’s post he talks about pre-dawn hours at Namche:<\/p>\n

\n

A soft hue of pre-dawn light was settled upon the snowy peaks above. The shops were shuttered. A lone black cow starred me down from the other end of the alley. No people moved about. Very few windows shown light. I climbed higher up the terraces, taking the uphill fork whenever the path split. There were pastures and gardens, one-room homes and brightly painted prayer wheels. A man in a yellow jacket emerged from one teahouse with a tripod and camera. He had set them up by the time I passed. It seemed likely he knew something I did not, so I lingered for a moment. The day\u2019s first light suddenly grabbed the tips of the highest peaks around us. Magic.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Another great post from the US Air Force team, Rob Marshall<\/a>, as they saw Everest for the first time:<\/p>\n

\n

We got our first look at Mt. Everest. The winds were blowing hard up there and a long trail of cloud\/snow blew to the south of her. The Air Force climbers were all smiling and patting each other on the back- partly in excitement of seeing our goal and partly because it was so daunting. There\u2019s this mix of fear and excitement at all times. Just like going on a combat mission- you know you\u2019re ready for it and want to achieve your goals, but you\u2019re acutely aware of the possibility of failure. None of us want to get sick or have something prevent us from reaching the summit, but we know there\u2019s a serious chance it will happen. Some professional guides commented on how strong our team is today and said the only thing that would stop us would be weather or an illness\u2026 I hope that\u2019s the case!<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

So they continue. Some teams will reach Base Camp this weekend. Others will stop at Lobuche and being more serious acclimatization through climbing this 20,000 foot peak. But all will savor the final days on the trail before the real work begins.<\/p>\n

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything<\/p>\n

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