{"id":14453,"date":"2013-04-10T10:58:42","date_gmt":"2013-04-10T16:58:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=14453"},"modified":"2013-04-10T20:19:11","modified_gmt":"2013-04-11T02:19:11","slug":"everest-2013-first-steps-into-the-icefall","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2013\/04\/10\/everest-2013-first-steps-into-the-icefall\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2013: First Steps into the Icefall"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Alan<\/a>
Alan Climbing the Khumbu Icefall in 2002<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There is progress to report all around today. Teams are in Base Camp making their first trips into the Icefall. Others are finishing up their trek in the Khumbu and the North side teams have crossed the Chinese border and are starting the first of four nights en-route to the Chinese Base Camp.<\/p>\n

Several teams including Adventure Consultants <\/a>are getting close to South Base Camp and only have\u00a0a couple more nights on the trek. Ang Dorge reports on the weather today:<\/p>\n

\n

The weather has changed, turning windy, medicine<\/a> cloudy and colder than before. Flurries of snow flakes have come down this afternoon, and they sky is grey. Dorjee says this often happens when the Sherpa calendar changes into a new month.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Touching the Icefall<\/h3>\n

Wally Berg’s Berg Adventure<\/a> small group made their first sortie into the Icefall. They reached an area known as the popcorn where the moving glacier has become quite jumbled and broken off looking like a field of popcorn. They used this climb to be introduced to crossing the ladders while wearing crampons, rope safety and the need to stay clipped in to the safety rope while crossing the ladders.<\/p>\n

Dave Hahn’s RMI<\/a> team also went in to the Icefall to the Popcorn area but they also are in search of something else:<\/div>\n
\n
We went up about an hour, the consensus was that we\u2019d reached close to 18,000 ft, but we stopped just before the \u201cpopcorn\u201d section of the Icefall where the risk ramps up a bit.\u00a0 Back down to camp we came, stopping off for a cyber break, of course, in a safe place where we were finding the all-important 3G signal out of Gorak Shep for our smart phones.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n
The 3G cell phone signal provided by NCELL is spotty at in Base Camp. Sometimes you can get it in your tent, but most most often you have to walk around holding your phone high in the air similar to a divining rod looking for water. Once found, you immediately sit and do not move a muscle for fear the signal will be lost. Even if it means cramping, your call will go through! Sometimes it seems it takes more dedication to make phone call than it does to climb the mountain!<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
The first steps onto the Icefall represents a huge milestone for an Everest expedition.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
Sitting crossed-legged in your tent, you try to visualize what you will need. It should be easy, you have had this vision daily for the past two years. But now it is real. You will only be gone for a few hours, not overnight, so the pick list is short: snack, water, normal layers (base, outer, wind, warmth), gloves, hat, sunglass, sunscreen.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
And the fun stuff: harness rigged with cordelette to attach to jumars, carabiners, ice axe with the grip wrapped in duct tape to stop the cold and your crampons. Your boots lie in your tent vestibule looking ready for action, the tongue of the inner boot seems to wag like an excited pup. OK, your visions have crossed the line and it is time to go.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
All of the gear gets stuffed into one of the small day packs you brought. You tug the boots on with a hard pull and give the laces one extra inspection. Crampons are lashed on the outside of the pack and the ice axe is in your hand. Hmm, you are no longer trekking the Khumbu.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
The sun is just below the top of the Icefall and it is a bit cold, you pull the hood around your neck but not over your head. The Sherpas are not wearing jackets.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
The walk to the edge of the Khumbu Icefall is short or long depending on where your Base Camp is located. In this case it is on the edge of the main camp so it takes 20 minutes to walk to a flat area known as Crampon Point. You will get to know this place well. It is flat, a frozen stream of glacier melt water surrounded by ten foot high snow and ice banks. The last time you come through this area in late May, it will be a rushing river.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
Other teams arrive, Sherpas are already making the Icefall their own by carrying load after load to establish Camps 1 and 2. The Icefall Doctors come by with a long ladder tied to their backpack. It looks like a wing.<\/div>\n
\n
\"Crampon<\/a>
Crampon Point<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

Taking a deep breath, you kneel on one knee as you position your heavy climbing boot out front. You step onto the crampons, giving your foot a small twist, exerting slight pressure to seal the gap between tool and boot. With one quick move, you latch the heel lever into the boot groove.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

This time you have your gloves off to manipulate the straps. One crosses the toe, then around to the other side and into a latch. You feel good going through the mechanics of putting on your crampons. It is familiar, and comfortable, it makes the start of the day. But you know you need to do this with your heavy gloves on, so a doubt creeps in.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
The Sherpas stand by quietly, observing but not judging. Once everyone is ready, a Sherpa starts walking. He goes slowly. He is going very slowly. You take your first steps up\u00a0 a small ice ridge. There is no fixed rope. You use your ice axe for balance. On top of the ridge, you see your mission. An endless expanse of ice, huge ice blocks, some standing straight up, some on their side. It is like nothing you have ever seen, felt or experienced. The short pause allows the vision to become reality.<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
You are climbing the Khumbu Icefall.<\/div>\n

Saying Goodbye<\/h3>\n

I often talk about the difficulty on those left back home while their loved one climbs. David Tait<\/a> is going through a reverse sort of emotion. His wife and two sons accompanied him to Base Camp. They all arrived today at EBC and will fly out tomorrow. David’s thoughts on saying good bye to his family:<\/p>\n

\n

So tomorrow I repack their bags one last time. We will stand as a group next to BC helipad and wait for the rattle of the B3 as it enters the valley, its jet engine screaming in protest at the thinness of the air. With the freezing rotor wash pushing us into the ground and the engine barely coming off full power, I will hoist them aboard. With a last slam of the door and a brief salute to the oxygen-masked pilot I will pat the fuselage and watch helplessly as they vanish from my life for the next 6 weeks.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Dave Mauro <\/a>once again has a post rich with descriptive words. What strikes me about this post is the absence of any big news, it is just a day in the life. And it sounded quite nice. Please read the entire post as it is the Blog of the Day<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\n
There was a haze of smoke filling the second floor hallway as Ty and I walked to our room last night. There was no concern of fire as the smell immediately identified itself as burning yak dung. Trust me on this; it has a distinctive odor.\u00a0 We debated opening the window in our room but decided this was just as likely to invite still more smoke in. Lacking other options, we sat on the floor eating hershey\u2019s chocolate bars with almonds while watching episodes of The League on my laptop. Our room is at the far end of the Himalayan Hotel, abutting the Yak pasture. All night long the casual clang of metal bells spoke to the nocturnal grazing habit of the Yaks. Yet it was not unpleasant.\u00a0<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything<\/p>\n

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