{"id":16957,"date":"2013-09-12T00:55:47","date_gmt":"2013-09-12T06:55:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=16957"},"modified":"2013-09-12T00:57:45","modified_gmt":"2013-09-12T06:57:45","slug":"manaslu-2013-camp-1-success","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2013\/09\/12\/manaslu-2013-camp-1-success\/","title":{"rendered":"Manaslu 2013 – Camp 1 Success"},"content":{"rendered":"

The first test of a Himalayan expedition is the climb to Camp 1. This is
\nwhen you know if you trained hard enough, <\/a> you are taking care of
\nyourself and what the mountain is saying.<\/p>\n

Our climb to tag Camp 1 was successful on all counts. Everyone did well.
\nI was pleased with my own performance and felt that my endless summer of
\nclimbing Colorado 14, cheap<\/a> 000 foot mountains was a good investment.<\/p>\n

We left Base Camp around 6:45 AM on September 11. The route was obvious
\nas other teams and Sherpas had already been to Camp 1 and in fact have
\nCamp 2 established. The glacier was extremely dry. The crevasses were
\nobvious. I was surprised at the depth of many of them, a constant
\nreminder that there are no “easy” 8000 meter mountains and we must
\nalways remain aware and sharp.<\/p>\n

We reached Crampon Point after an hour of steady walking on rock and
\nslabs. There we switched to snow travel. With crampons on and harnesses
\nattached to the thin nylon safety line, we moved higher. The slope was
\nkind never gaining more than 20 degrees but the final slope increased
\nslightly as did the altitude reminding us of where we were and this was
\nnot a simple walk.<\/p>\n

We carried sleeping bags or down suits on this trip and left them in a
\ntent at Camp 1. Our next trip will be to spend a night there and move on
\nto Camp 2 for at least one more night. Thus far the weather continues to
\nbe predictable – low clouds all day with rain in the afternoon. But at
\nCamp 1 we were above the clouds providing some astonishing views.<\/p>\n

I must admit, that the upper slopes of Manaslu look sharp and dangerous
\nwith hanging seracs. Our route should avoid these dangers but the
\navalanche of 2012 is a content reminder that climbing in these
\nconditions can be unpredictable. All this said, it is exhilarating and
\nfeeds the mountaineer inside of me.<\/p>\n

After our quick 5 hour round trip to Camp 1, the Altitude Junkies
\nSherpas played the Himex Sherpas in a few games of volleyball. Yes,
\nHimex has a volleyball court setup in their camp, a one minute walk from
\nours, complete with net and lines. A large group of spectators gathered
\nin the damp mist to watch Himex take the match in a convincing style.
\nPhil Crampton was our only Westerner to play while Russell Brice walked
\nthrough the crowd offering candy bars. All in all a lot of fun on a
\ndreary day!<\/p>\n

Our team continues to do well with spirited conversation during meals,
\nshared anticipation of future climbs and an ever growing missing of
\nfamily and home. In this spirit, Paul wants to wish Kate a happy 13th
\nbirthday.<\/p>\n

I’ll provide another update probably early next week after our Camp 2
\nrotation.<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

\"\" <\/a><\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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