{"id":16965,"date":"2013-09-21T00:44:15","date_gmt":"2013-09-21T06:44:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=16965"},"modified":"2016-05-27T12:56:37","modified_gmt":"2016-05-27T18:56:37","slug":"manaslu-2013-leaving-for-the-summit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2013\/09\/21\/manaslu-2013-leaving-for-the-summit\/","title":{"rendered":"Manaslu 2013 – Leaving for the Summit"},"content":{"rendered":"

Weather is often the most unpredictable part of an 8000m expedition
\nother than health. You can control some factors around health but for
\nweather, <\/a> well not so much.<\/p>\n

We went to sleep on Thursday night to a light rain that developed into a
\nfull on storm throughout the night. Many times I awoke to a heavy
\nonslaught of rain on my tent walls as I was lying there wondering what
\nwas happening high above us on Manaslu.<\/p>\n

On Friday morning, the answer became clear. It snowed about a foot at
\nCamp 1 and twice that much at Camp 2. A French team at C2 made a hasty
\nre to Base Camp and others postponed all movement due to avalanche
\nand dangerous route conditions. As much as everyone was concerned, this
\nwas very normal for any large mountain much less on Manaslu notorious
\nfor bad weather.<\/p>\n

Over breakfast we adjusted our minds to the notion that we would be
\nwaiting at least a week for this new snow to settle and taking into
\naccount that another storm was predicted for Tuesday. It rained all day
\non Friday. We huddled in our tents sleeping, reading or moping. It was a
\ndark and dreary day.<\/p>\n

But then around 5:00PM on Friday, Russell Brice paid our camp a visit.
\nHe and Phil Crampton work very closely together coordinating, route
\nfixing, Sherpa and member rotations. They also compare weather
\nforecasts. Phil’s from the US and Russ’ from Switzerland. There was a
\nchange!<\/p>\n

The new forecast showed the next weather wave not occurring until
\nSeptember 26 or 27. This meant if we left on September 21st we could do
\nan orderly climb through the four camps and summit on September 25.
\nAnother forecast from a Belgium service confirmed the long window then
\nyet another update from Michael Fagin in the US extended the good period
\nto 7 days. We were back on!!<\/p>\n

The Altitude Junkies Sherpas went up this morning to pull the lines out
\nof the snow, repair a fallen ladder and break trail back to camp 2.
\nTomorrow, the Himex Sherpas will continue to work to camp 4 thus opening
\nthe route for summit bids.<\/p>\n

We are all busy packing for the summit push this morning, Saturday
\nSeptember 21. The plan is to spend one night each at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4
\nthen leaving for the summit in the early morning hours of September 25.
\nWe will return to Camp 2 or even all the way back to Base Camp the same
\nday depending on weather and health.<\/p>\n

I will do my to post a very brief audio dispatch on this site from
\neach camp and the summit but the communications have been difficult this
\nyear so always remember that no news is good news. Also the final
\nauthority on our expedition is from the Altitude Junkies official site
\nand not mine. I will have no way of responding to any email, or comments
\non my blog, Facebook or Twitter until I return to Kathmandu but
\nplease leave comments.<\/p>\n

The last 36 hours has been a case study in climbing big mountains. We
\nhave had contradicting information, incorrect on-mountain reports,
\ndirect sightings that create confusion, the wave of up and down
\nemotions, different coping mechanisms and everything else that goes with
\nsetting a difficult goal and getting close.<\/p>\n

We have gone through the oxygen systems, spent time getting to know our
\nindividual Personal Sherpas and reviewing exactly what we need for a
\nsafe summit attempt. We are all in excellent health and better spirits.
\nThe team dynamics are some for the I have seen on one of these big
\nexpeditions.<\/p>\n

If for some reason, the weather turns bad, we have time for a second
\nattempt but right now it looks great for a summit next Wednesday, Nepal
\ntime.<\/p>\n

This is what we do. This is what I do, climb mountains. I have a
\nnervous flutter in my belly. This will be my first real test after
\nEverest, over two years ago. I am two years older. Manaslu’s route
\nconditions are as difficult as the Sherpas have seen in the least six
\nyears. I know this will be hard but not impossible. Once again, I draw
\nstrength from using my climbs to send a message of hope, need and
\nurgency for Alzheimer’s.<\/p>\n

My goal is to stand on the true summit, not the fore-summit. This means
\ncrossing a narrow cornice or snow ridge of about 20 feet. Yes, short but
\nsignificant in the mountaineering world. I will do everything I can to
\nreach that goal without putting Passang, my Sherpa partner, in danger.<\/p>\n

Whew. Time has come. To my followers, thanks for your ongoing support
\nfor my climbing and Alzheimer’s causes. To my climbing partners – well
\nyou know.<\/p>\n

And for my family. I miss you and love you deeply. mulu<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

\"\" <\/a><\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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