{"id":19745,"date":"2014-06-02T06:04:41","date_gmt":"2014-06-02T12:04:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=19745"},"modified":"2016-05-28T12:21:36","modified_gmt":"2016-05-28T18:21:36","slug":"k2-k2-dangerous-difficult","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2014\/06\/02\/k2-k2-dangerous-difficult\/","title":{"rendered":"K2: Why K2 is Dangerous and Difficult"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"K2<\/a>Thanks for following my attempt on K2 to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s non-profits: Cure Alzheimer’s Fund and UsAgainstAlzheimer’s. Thanks again for Abila for their support.<\/p>\n

Remember if you donate $1, <\/a> 000 or more I’ll call you from K2 basecamp. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

This post is a quick update on my training a brief discussion on the hazards around K2.<\/p>\n

K2 has the reputation of being the world’s most difficult mountain and one of the most dangerous. Other mountains and routes may surpass K2 in difficulty but when combined with the altitude, the world’s 2nd tallest at 28,251′ has to be near the top.<\/p>\n

There are about 10 named routes on K2. When asked what is the easiest route, most people who have climbed K2, say simply there are no easy routes on K2. If forced, they cite the Abruzzi as the one most climbed thus the “easiest”,\u00a0 however it also has the most deaths due to its popularity.<\/p>\n

The Facts<\/strong><\/p>\n

As for danger, this table summarizes it well:<\/p>\n

\"8000m<\/a>
8000m deaths and summits through 2013\/14source: Himalayan Database, research<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The most significant danger on K2 comes from rock fall and avalanches. The huge ice serac looming near the summit is the clearest objective danger as it can release large parts with zero notice falling directly on the most popular route.<\/p>\n

The rock fall is ever-present, sending large and small objects directly on top of climbers in the narrow gullies that cannot be avoided.\u00a0 The helmets cannot protect climbers from these meteors.<\/p>\n

Also K2’s weather is notorious for its unpredictability and sudden development trapping climbers high on steep slopes.\u00a0 High winds can develop sweeping climbers off the high ridges, heavy snowfall can destroy fixed lines and escape routes plus accelerate the avalanche danger.<\/p>\n

Given the steep, icy and avalanche prone terrain, falls are prevalent. Some climbers fall even when attached to fixed rope but most are not clipped in, a mistake or perhaps unavoidable, slipping down steep icy slopes where self arrest is not an option.<\/p>\n

As if all of this is not enough to make any sane person avoid K2, there is the fact that climbers are above 20,000 or 25,000 feet, struggling for oxygen, pushing their bodies to the physiological limit climbing steep and dangerous terrain with no relief. Many climbers die simply from exhaustion, for lack of a better term.<\/p>\n

According to 8000ers. com, the 81 deaths can be broken down as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Cause of Death<\/strong><\/td>\n\u00a0Number<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Avalanche<\/td>\n24<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Falls<\/td>\n23<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Altitude Illness\/Exhaustion<\/td>\n18<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Disappearance<\/td>\n12<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Illness<\/td>\n4<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
TOTAL<\/strong><\/td>\n\u00a081<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

A look at the Dangers<\/strong><\/p>\n

These two videos will give you a bit of insight into the climb. I don\u2019t expect you to watch the long one from my friend Tunc Findik all the way through but if you have an interest it is very well done.<\/p>\n

Fast forward to 27:04 to see the most difficult part of the climb or often called the crux. <\/strong>It is an area called the Bottleneck at 27,200′ which is near vertical rock wall covered in ice and snow. Note the climber in the middle at 27:17 making a delicate move across the face.<\/p>\n