{"id":20097,"date":"2014-07-21T09:38:16","date_gmt":"2014-07-21T15:38:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=20097"},"modified":"2016-06-11T10:54:08","modified_gmt":"2016-06-11T16:54:08","slug":"k2-summit-schedule","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2014\/07\/21\/k2-summit-schedule\/","title":{"rendered":"K2: Summit Schedule"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_20098\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-20098\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-20098\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-225x169.jpg\" alt=\"Camp 3 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-20098\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Camp 2 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp July 21,   <\/a>  2014.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The weather has cleared and it is a perfect day here at BC. The forecast calls for summit winds under 30 mph over the next week &#8211; ideal for us. There are about 60 people going for the summit over this period including around 7 women.<\/p>\n<p>This is much more than normal for K2 but 2014 is the 60th anniversary of the first summit in 1954 by Italians led by Ardito Desio, <\/a>  and the two climbers who reached the summit were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The team included Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah.<\/p>\n<p>There is still work to do on K2 as the fixed ropes have only been set to Camp 3. Thus the early summit teams will take on an additional load of breaking trail and fixing the bottleneck above Camp 4. Our Sherpas will assist as possible.<\/p>\n<p>By the way, our Sherpas have over 30 summits of Everest between them, maybe 40 \u2026 They reported tonight waist deep snow from Camp 1 higher after the recent snowfall experienced in Base Camp.<\/p>\n<p>If I summit, I believe I would be the oldest American. Since the first American summit of 4 in 1978, there have only been 10 more including the likes of Viestures, Fisher, etc. One died on the descent. The last American summit was in 2007 by Chris Warner thus there have been 14 Americans summit. The last year K2 allowed a summit was 2012 with 28 on July 31 bringing the total to 334 with 83 deaths (updated numbers).<\/p>\n<p>You can follow me on the summit push through the SPOT tracker on the main blog page , http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/k2-2014\/, where I will also post audio updates, however, the audio updates seem to be unreliable possibly due to the high rock walls of K2. I will also try to send short updates via Twitter to @alan_arnette.<\/p>\n<p>I will do my  to make a sat call from the summit to my blog if I am so fortunate.<\/p>\n<p>We leave on Tuesday, July 22 2014. This is the ideal schedule assuming no weather or health delays<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>July 22: ABC<\/li>\n<li>July 23: Camp 1<\/li>\n<li>July 24: Camp 2<\/li>\n<li>July 25: Camp 3<\/li>\n<li>July 26: Camp 4 &#8211; leave for summit anywhere for 10PM to 2AM depending on many factors (winds, other teams, ropes, etc)<\/li>\n<li>July 27: Summit hopefully between 5am &#8211; 10am again depending on many factors. Return to Camp 2<\/li>\n<li>July 28: return to Base Camp<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>By the way, July 27 will be my 58th birthday. If you want to send me a gift, a donation would be perfect to one of the Alzheimer&#8217;s non-profits. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>Regardless of the outcome, I want to thank Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering for providing a world-class expedition in a difficult environment. I have not lost any weight or gotten sick. His attention to detail, gentle style and caring spirit has been outstanding. Thanks Garrett.<\/p>\n<p>We packed our summit push food yesterday, took showers and shaved today, are reviewing our gear, even though most of it is cached at the High Camps making our pads nothing this time to C2, and getting mentally prepared.<\/p>\n<p>Since the last rotation to Camp 2 at 22,000 feet,\u00a0 I feel 1000% better. I know the 2nd time up is always easier I also have a hint of what is above C2 and it is hard. I am not so much worried about the ascent \ud83d\ude42 \ud83d\ude42 but rather fatigue on the descent. That bit me on Everest so I\u2019m thinking through strategies of how to cope with it (pace, food, oxygen, technique, etc).<\/p>\n<p>All I know is that I\u2019m going to attempt the summit of K2.<\/p>\n<p>I will do my , not give up unless it is life or death and push until I cannot push anymore. I fully understand that not summiting is not the end of the world and coming home is more important than a summit, but I want this bad &#8211; real bad, very bad. I want to show the world that we can do hard things.<\/p>\n<p>I want this summit. I want a cure.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>An anonymous donor has generously agreed to match all donations made to Cure Alzheimer\u2019s Fund throughout our K2 climb, to a maximum of $25,000.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Double your impact and make a donation to end Alzheimer\u2019s today!<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_20098\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-20098\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20098\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293.jpg\" alt=\"Camp 3 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/IMG_2293-900x675.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-20098\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Camp 2 through a telescope from K2 Base Camp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The weather has cleared and it is a perfect day here at BC. The forecast calls for summit winds under 30 mph [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[405],"tags":[42],"class_list":["post-20097","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-k2-2014","tag-k2"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20097","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=20097"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20097\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=20097"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=20097"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=20097"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}